Our cruise ship, Ambience,
eased into Belfast on a slightly overcast but mostly dry September Saturday,
just after 8:00. The wind was brisk enough to remind us we were in Northern
Ireland, but the weather was kind enough to let exploration win the day. It was
our first visit to Belfast, and both Mrs PBT’s and I were keen to get off the
boat and see what the city had to offer. Breakfast on board
was a modest affair — nothing much appealed, so I settled for some granola and
a couple of slices of toast before we got ourselves ready and disembarked.
Arrival and first impressions
Ambience was
berthed in the port area not far from Belfast City Airport, something we
didn’t notice at first but certainly did on our return when planes were taking
off almost overhead. From the terminal we boarded a double‑deck shuttle bus
into the city centre, passing the famous Harland & Wolff shipyard on the
way. With its two colossal yellow cranes dominating the skyline, there was no
mistaking where we were; this was the birthplace of the ill-fated Titanic.
The bus dropped us
right in front of the impressive Belfast City Hall. We wandered around the
shops for a while — mainly for Mrs PBTs’ benefit — and found all the usual UK
suspects: Primark, Boots, and even a hardware shop tucked away nearby.
Afterwards, we sat for a while on a bench in the pleasant grounds of City Hall,
watching the city wake up around us.
The Crown Liquor
Saloon
Our main objective for
the morning was the legendary Crown Liquor Saloon, which is a must-visit
venue for visitors to Belfast. This
Victorian gem, which dates back to 1898 and now owned by the National Trust.
It’s one of those pubs you hear about for years and seeing it in person doesn’t
disappoint. Ornate tiles, carved wood, stained glass, snugs- the full
Victorian fantasy.
Despite arriving
shortly after its 11:30 opening time, the place was already buzzing. We managed
to secure a booth opposite the bar, and I went to fetch drinks: a Diet Coke for
Mrs PBT’s and a pint of Abbeydale Moonshine for myself. Unfortunately the Abbeydale tasted
off, and was definitely on the turn, so I took it back. The young lad behind
the bar tasted the beer and straight away swapped it without fuss for a pint of Timothy
Taylor’s Landlord. Predictable, perhaps, but reliably drinkable.
The booth next to
us was occupied by a rather noisy group, possibly a stag party, or maybe
something connected to an Orange Order demonstration scheduled later in the
day. Whatever the reason, the pub was heaving, and as our booth was reserved
for a larger group from 1:00 onwards, we drank up and may our way out, but only
after exploring the pub’s wonderfully old‑fashioned toilet.
Lunch and people‑watching
On the walk back to
the shuttle bus pickup point, we stopped at one of the bakeries in the city
centre and bought a couple of hot sausage rolls. We ate them whilst sat on a
bench in the City Hall grounds, a simple but satisfying lunch, and a convenient
spot to sit and watch Belfast go by.
We concluded that
the Crown’s early rush was probably down to stag and hen parties using it as
their first meeting point. It certainly felt like the sort of place you’d want
to start a big day out, even if 11:30 is a touch early for some.
Back to the ship
— and an unexpected delay
We caught the
shuttle bus back to the cruise terminal and browsed the small quayside shop for
souvenirs. Departure was slightly delayed: a rock had become jammed in the
prongs of the ship’s anchor. Lowering and raising it didn’t help, so a mobile
crane was brought in to remove the offending stone. Once freed, Ambience was
soon on her way again, heading south.
We spent the next
day cruising steadily southwards, before arriving the following morning in the
lovely little town of Cobh — a place we’d visited on our first round‑Britain
cruise the year before.
A few facts &
figures about the Crown Liquor Saloon
Located on Great Victoria Street, the Crown is a
Grade A listed Victorian gin palace, renowned for its extravagant interior and
exterior decoration. Together with Liverpool’s Philharmonic and the Vines, the Crown is
one of the UK’s three most spectacular pubs. Built in the 1840s, it was
refitted in late Victorian times.
Originally opened as The Railway
Tavern in 1826. The pub was renamed and lavishly refurbished in
1885 by Patrick Flanagan, who
employed Italian church craftsmen to create its signature tiling, stained
glass, and woodwork.
Purchased by the National
Trust in 1978, restored extensively, and leased to Mitchells & Butlers, who
operate it under the Nicholson’s brand. The pub contains ten
snugs, each with original bell systems used to summon staff. The snugs were
designed for privacy during the Victorian era.
The exterior is
covered in polychromatic tiles, including the famous mosaic crown
in the entrance, which is the source of the joke that visitors “trample on the British
Crown.” The bar retains gas
lamps on its ornate carved ceilings, contributing to its atmospheric period
feel. The stained-glass windows
feature painted shells, fairies, pineapples, fleurs‑de‑lis, and clowns. There
is also a substantial amount of decorative acid-etched glasswork.
Conclusion
The Crown is definitely worth seeing, and for a dedicated pub
man like me, it was like being in heritage pub heaven. On that score, alone, it
was well worth the trip into Belfast City centre, and if you love classic pubs
with equal devotion to my own, this is the absolute “Crown” as far as British and Irish
pubs are concerned.
