In case anyone was
wondering, my most recent post relating to my drinking habits and early pub
experiences, was written before we set off on our recent
I’d sketched out the bare bones of the article, but there simply wasn’t sufficient
time to “polish it” – no chance to add the bold text that certain readers so
much adore, and no opportunity to drop in the photos, most of which are still
on my phone. Additionally, there was certainly no time for a proper re-read,
prior to hitting the “publish” button. So now that we’re back, what of the
voyage we’ve just returned from?
For those paying
attention, Mrs PBT’s and I embarked on a ten‑day cruise around the British
Isles. The official title was “Highlights of the British Isles,” and our
route took us from Tilbury, the home port of Ambassador Cruise Lines, up to the
Orkney Islands, then down to the Hebrides, including the islands of both Lewis
and Mull. From there we headed across the Irish Sea to Belfast. After leaving
Ulster, our ship sailed down to Cobh in the Republic of Ireland, the port for
nearby Cork, which is southern Ireland’s second‑largest city.
An evening’s south-easterly cruising brought us to the Isles of Scilly, that small, sub-tropical archipelago off the south-west tip of England. From the Scillies, we enjoyed a
slow, scenic sail home, hugging the coasts of south-west and southern England
before joining the shipping lanes that funnel traffic through the English
Channel. This meant crossing over to the French side of La Manche and followed
the coastline for a while, before heading back to Blighty in the early hours of
Thursday morning. We then picked up the local pilot and entered the Thames estuary,
arriving in back Tilbury in good time for an early disembarkation.
Those who’ve been
following the blog, will know this was our second round‑Britain cruise. The
first took place in May, last year, aboard the Queen Anne, travelling
anticlockwise. That itinerary included Leith (Edinburgh), Invergordon,
Stornoway, and Greenock, before heading down to Liverpool. From Liverpool we
crossed the Irish Sea to Cobh and then returned to Southampton. A similar itinerary,
but different towns, different cities, and different experiences. Both cruises
were good, and both were distinct in their own way — so I’m not going to start
making comparisons.
Highlights
There were plenty.
Kirkwall, in the Orkney Islands, was a delight – a lovely little town,
untouched and unsullied by many of the 21st‑century woes that afflict mainland
Britain (litter and mindless graffiti, posing as art). Stornoway was enjoyable
too, even though our visit was practically identical to our previous visit, last May.
Mull was different,
and very enjoyable. I’ve got enough notes to write a separate post about the
visit I made to Tobermory, the island’s largest settlement, so I shan’t elaborate
too much, here. But with no suitable berth for even a relatively small cruise-ship,
passengers were ferried ashore by tender — essentially a repurposed lifeboat —
landing at the east side of the town. Mrs PBT’s didn’t join me for that one, and
despite her absence I enjoyed a smashing day wandering around Tobermory, with
its gaily painted houses, shops, bars, and restaurants. Sunshine, wind, colour,
atmosphere, and more, and all spot on!
Belfast was a
complete contrast and represented a first visit for both of us. I’m pleased to
report that Belfast is a thriving, dynamic city, full of recent developments
and new investment. It’s a city that’s clearly determined to put the infamous
“Troubles” firmly behind it. We called in for a drink at the famous, “CAMRA
Heritage” Crown Liquor Saloon, a pub which met all our expectations, and more,
although surprisingly, at just after 11.30 am, the place was absolutely
heaving, and incredibly busy. (More about the Crown in a separate post).
We didn’t do
anything overly ambitious in Cobh, just a stroll along the waterfront, a sit‑down
overlooking the sea, a bit of shopping, and a visit to a different Irish pub
from last time. Not Professor Pie Tin’s former local, I’m afraid, but quite close to it, and it must be said that the Rob
Roy was a cracking place that served an excellent pint of Murphy’s. Murphy’s,
of course, being one of Cork’s two rival breweries that challenge Guinness’s
hegemony. In common with a number of fellow cruisers, we sat outside at one of
several tables and watched the world go by.
The Isles of Scilly
were another story. The transfer ashore involved an open boat belonging to
local fishermen rather than a ship’s tender, and with choppy seas I decided to
give St Mary’s a miss. I’ve got a few regrets about that, and perhaps I made
the wrong call, especially as conditions had calmed down by the time the
transfer boats were running steadily. But I really didn’t fancy the two, 30-minute
crossings, sitting on an uncomfortable wooden seat, bouncing about in the swell
– and that’s coming from someone who doesn’t suffer from seasickness! There’s
always next time, although perhaps not?
A Few Final
Thoughts
Ambassador Cruise
Lines’ Ambience is obviously quite different from Cunard’s Queen Anne, and whilst
there are aspects of the former that I prefer, there are also things I missed
from the Cunard vessel. You can’t have everything, and in summary, both round‑Britain
voyages were interesting, enjoyable, and memorable. The later one was blessed
with mainly fine weather, unlike the first, where Liverpool, in particular, gave
us a couple of very wet days, but that’s the “joy” of cruising in home waters!
