{"id":7073194,"date":"2026-10-02T18:18:27","date_gmt":"2026-10-02T18:18:27","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/fivemor.com\/?p=7073194"},"modified":"2026-10-02T18:18:27","modified_gmt":"2026-10-02T18:18:27","slug":"declassified-burgundy","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/fivemor.com\/?p=7073194","title":{"rendered":"Declassified Burgundy"},"content":{"rendered":"<p> <br \/>\n<\/p>\n<div>\n<div data-breakout=\"normal\">\n<div class=\"_0vncC\" id=\"viewer-258c2126\" tabindex=\"-1\">\n<div class=\"HUNH- VXNhJ\">\n<figure class=\"vscz7\" data-hook=\"figure-IMAGE\">\n<div data-hook=\"image-viewer\" class=\"KDEWi\">\n<div class=\"_80IYq OuB-T bCpAv\" style=\"--dim-height:3840;--dim-width:2160;--ricos-image-default-border-color:unset\" data-hook=\"image-viewer-258c2126\">\n<div class=\"oz1f0\">\n<div style=\"position:absolute;top:0;left:0;right:0;bottom:0\" id=\"258c2126\" class=\"TTsMm\"><wow-image id=\"be6ee8_39b93136a4604b8d82d39fc2107a5d2a~mv2.jpg\" class=\"undefined svv3P\" data-image-info=\"{&quot;containerId&quot;:&quot;258c2126&quot;,&quot;alignType&quot;:&quot;center&quot;,&quot;displayMode&quot;:&quot;fill&quot;,&quot;isLQIP&quot;:true,&quot;isSEOBot&quot;:false,&quot;lqipTransition&quot;:&quot;blur&quot;,&quot;encoding&quot;:&quot;AVIF&quot;,&quot;imageData&quot;:{&quot;width&quot;:2160,&quot;height&quot;:3840,&quot;uri&quot;:&quot;be6ee8_39b93136a4604b8d82d39fc2107a5d2a~mv2.jpg&quot;,&quot;name&quot;:&quot;&quot;,&quot;displayMode&quot;:&quot;fill&quot;}}\" data-motion-part=\"BG_IMG 258c2126\" data-bg-effect-name=\"\" data-has-ssr-src=\"https:\/\/www.beauneidol.com\/post\/true\" data-animate-blur=\"\" data-is-responsive=\"https:\/\/www.beauneidol.com\/post\/true\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/static.wixstatic.com\/media\/be6ee8_39b93136a4604b8d82d39fc2107a5d2a~mv2.jpg\/v1\/fill\/w_147,h_261,al_c,q_80,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,blur_2,enc_avif,quality_auto\/be6ee8_39b93136a4604b8d82d39fc2107a5d2a~mv2.jpg\" alt=\"\" style=\"width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;object-position:50% 50%;max-width:100%;position:absolute;left:0;top:0\" data-pin-url=\"https:\/\/www.beauneidol.com\/post\/declassified-burgundy\" data-pin-media=\"https:\/\/static.wixstatic.com\/media\/be6ee8_39b93136a4604b8d82d39fc2107a5d2a~mv2.jpg\/v1\/fill\/w_2160,h_3840,al_c,q_90\/be6ee8_39b93136a4604b8d82d39fc2107a5d2a~mv2.jpg\" draggable=\"false\"\/><\/wow-image><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p><button class=\"vP2vO\" type=\"button\" data-hook=\"image-expand-button\" aria-label=\"Expand image\"><svg xmlns=\"http:\/\/www.w3.org\/2000\/svg\" viewbox=\"0 0 19 19\" class=\"_4HXfd\"><path d=\"M15.071 8.371V4.585l-4.355 4.356a.2.2 0 0 1-.283 0l-.374-.374a.2.2 0 0 1 0-.283l4.356-4.355h-3.786a.2.2 0 0 1-.2-.2V3.2c0-.11.09-.2.2-.2H16v5.371a.2.2 0 0 1-.2.2h-.529a.2.2 0 0 1-.2-.2zm-6.5 6.9v.529a.2.2 0 0 1-.2.2H3v-5.371c0-.11.09-.2.2-.2h.529c.11 0 .2.09.2.2v3.786l4.355-4.356a.2.2 0 0 1 .283 0l.374.374a.2.2 0 0 1 0 .283L4.585 15.07h3.786c.11 0 .2.09.2.2z\" fill=\"#000\" fill-rule=\"nonzero\"\/><\/svg><\/button><\/div>\n<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div data-breakout=\"normal\">\n<p class=\"_9Nlgm Dd46l fUDW- lqKvG\" dir=\"auto\" data-ricos-paragraph=\"16qjv130\" id=\"viewer-16qjv130\" tabindex=\"-1\"><span class=\"KmEWy\"><span>As wine bars go, The Wine Library is a good one. A 19th century cellar in Tower Hill, it pays no attention to trends, in either d\u00e9cor or drinking styles; no sign of Enomatic wine dispensers here. This bar has traditional drinking booths, allowing some privacy and enabling conversation to take place at a comfortable volume. The lighting level wouldn\u2019t do for the MW tasting exam, but in all other drinking situations, low wattage is very welcome.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<div data-breakout=\"normal\">\n<p class=\"_9Nlgm Dd46l fUDW- lqKvG\" dir=\"auto\" data-ricos-paragraph=\"adxng132\" id=\"viewer-adxng132\" tabindex=\"-1\"><span class=\"KmEWy\"><span>A visit earlier this week, when the weather was milder, made it feel like a white wine sort of day. Despite the hundreds of bottles to choose from, I still somehow managed to end up in the Burgundy section, where I almost missed the bottle of Bourgogne \u201cChaumes des Perri\u00e8res\u201d in favour of a Pouilly-Fuiss\u00e9.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<div data-breakout=\"normal\">\n<p class=\"_9Nlgm Dd46l fUDW- lqKvG\" dir=\"auto\" data-ricos-paragraph=\"vsjpt134\" id=\"viewer-vsjpt134\" tabindex=\"-1\"><span class=\"KmEWy\"><span>Chaumes des Perri\u00e8res falls outside protected classification, due to some historic viticultural practices that upset the neighbours. At under \u00a340, it is actually a declassified Meursault, making it a gem of a bottle and a rare find. In 1975, Raymond Dupont-Fahn\u2019s grandfather took pity on his young vines and added a layer of topsoil, taking it from the bottom of the vineyard to the top, in order to help establish his planting. He had been granted permission by the INAO to do this, but other producers nearby raised a petition, and the whole plot was subsequently downgraded from Meursault to Bourgogne. Finding a declassified wine from a revered producer and favourable site on the C\u00f4te de Beaune is surely the holy grail for Burgundy seekers, unless they have very deep pockets, as year-on-year prices increase due to the untrammelled world demand for wines from the region. It is hard to imagine how one would go about making enquiries for declassified Meursault in the C\u00f4te de Beaune, but the image of flying pigs springs to mind. Wine of this quality and pedigree that sells for the price of generic Bourgogne must surely be a closely guarded secret, and for those wine importers who can get hold of it, a dream.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<div data-breakout=\"normal\">\n<p class=\"_9Nlgm Dd46l fUDW- lqKvG\" dir=\"auto\" data-ricos-paragraph=\"0fcrj136\" id=\"viewer-0fcrj136\" tabindex=\"-1\"><span class=\"KmEWy\"><span>There are no grand crus in Meursault, but the commune has 18 premier crus and producer names that command respect the world over. The Dupont-Fahn plot has vines of 40 years plus, and until the late 1970s, the wines were entitled to be sold as Meursault, possibly even with \u20181er Cru Dos d\u2019Ane\u2019 status, sitting as it does just to the south of Sous le Dos d\u2019Ane and a mere 50 metres above the Perri\u00e8res vines of the fabled wine producer, Coche-Dury. Following the INAO\u2019s decision to declassify the wine, Grandpa Dupont-Fahn must have had some regrets about moving that soil up the slope.<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<div data-breakout=\"normal\">\n<p class=\"_9Nlgm Dd46l fUDW- lqKvG\" dir=\"auto\" data-ricos-paragraph=\"bsiqn138\" id=\"viewer-bsiqn138\" tabindex=\"-1\"><span class=\"KmEWy\"><span>For the drinkers in the library booth that day, this bottle proved to be a great discovery. With its slightly greenish hues (a 2020, so still young), it is taut and linear, with pronounced aromas of lime zest, grapefruit and <\/span><u style=\"text-decoration:underline\"><span>g<\/span><\/u><span>reengage.<\/span><a target=\"_blank\" href=\"http:\/\/greengage.here\" rel=\"noopener\" class=\"XMQQ3 _7h6yd\" data-hook=\"web-link\"><span> There<\/span><\/a><span> is evidence of malolactic fermentation and some restrained oak, and a lingering finish. Unusually, the bottle has a wax capsule, which may be in an effort to reduce the risk of premox, which is well known to have a disproportionate effect on white Burgundies. Not a knock-out \u2018Meursault\u2019, but then it wasn\u2019t a Meursault &#8211; or was it?<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<div data-breakout=\"normal\">\n<p class=\"_9Nlgm Dd46l fUDW- lqKvG\" dir=\"auto\" data-ricos-paragraph=\"06jy3140\" id=\"viewer-06jy3140\" tabindex=\"-1\"><span class=\"KmEWy\"><span>This wine has been a fascinating discovery and a reminder, should one be necessary, that the study of Burgundian parcels, climats, neighbourly disputes and appellation politics are complicated, and even intriguing. A bottle of Meursault, in all but name, retailing for under \u00a340, can be mine for less than my favourite bottle of Bourgogne Aligot\u00e9. Who would have thought it?<\/span><\/span><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>As wine bars go, The Wine Library is a good one. A 19th century cellar in Tower Hill, it pays no attention to trends, in either d\u00e9cor or drinking styles; no sign of Enomatic wine dispensers here. This bar has traditional drinking booths, allowing some privacy and enabling conversation to take place at a comfortable [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":7073195,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[5344,67218],"dealstore":[],"offerexpiration":[],"class_list":["post-7073194","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-uncategorized","tag-burgundy","tag-declassified"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v26.4 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Declassified Burgundy - Som2ny Network<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/fivemor.com\/?p=7073194\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Declassified Burgundy - Som2ny Network\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"As wine bars go, The Wine Library is a good one. 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