\n
In 1962, changes to retail licensing laws allowed supermarkets to begin selling alcohol. Ten\u00a0years later,\u00a0supermarket wine sales had grown from 5% of off-trade wine, beer and spirits\u00a0to 25%, this staggering expansion was largely attributable to Sainsbury\u2019s, Tesco, Waitrose and the Co-Op, who were first to exploit an aspirational middle class increasingly preoccupied with continental luxuries. This preoccupation was exaggerated by Common Market membership in 1973, which also marked the genesis of own-label supermarket wines\u2014by 2008, these predominately budget wines would make up 40% of all supermarket wine sales.\u00a0<\/p>\n
The supermarket foray into wine retail was met with great enthusiasm by eager consumers. Nevertheless, the shelves were mostly filled with industrial plonk, epitomised by 3.5 million bottles sold annually of off-dry German horror, Blue Nun. This was true until at least 1985, when wine retailer, Simon Loftus described supermarket own-label ranges\u2014which were dominated by French, German, and Spanish wines\u2014as offering the \u2018dull decency of wines blended for general acceptability\u2019. Soon after, the advent of New World wines took supermarkets by storm, attracted by their reliability, fruit-forward style, and consumer-friendly labelling. By 1996, Australia had overtaken France as the largest supplier of wine to the UK off-trade market, and by 2000, Chile, Argentina, South Africa, and New Zealand surged in popularity, heavily promoted by supermarkets through own-label partnerships and exclusive import deals. These growing wine ranges coincided with the evolution of supermarkets from convenience-focused retailers into dominant one-stop shops which ravaged specialist retailers like butchers, greengrocers\u2014and off-licences, consolidating shopping trips into weekly supermarket visits, and\u00a0fundamentally altering the face of English high streets forever. Consequently, by 2012, supermarkets accounted for a staggering 81% of off-trade wine sales.<\/p>\n
Until 2010, the \u201cBig Four\u201d supermarkets dominated UK grocery sales, largely competing on product range, convenience, and loyalty schemes. But, between 2011 and 2013, budget German grocers, Aldi and Lidl began gaining traction in the UK, supercharged by the lingering effects of the 2008 financial crisis. Then, in 2014, Tesco announced significant price cuts and changes to product ranges in response to falling profits, Sainsbury\u2019s and Asda followed suit and by 2017, intense price wars defined UK grocery. These price wars extend to wine retail, where despite successive efforts to sell fine wines\u2014Marks & Spencer\u2019s Connoisseur range, Sainsbury\u2019s Vintage Selection and so on\u2014shelves were quickly filled with discount plonk, so much so that at a 2022 Tesco trade tasting, 68 new wines of 143 on show were priced at under \u00a34 a bottle<\/p>\n
To begin with, supermarkets had been met with excitement, British wine writer, Pamela Vandyke Price was jubilant about this new market which she thought might help make wine drinking part of everyday life. But excitement soon waned when merchants, writers and journalists realised that despite an initial increase in wine consumption, the same retailers doing small, family-owned grocery stores out of business were not a rising tide, even if they worked hard to promote wine insofar as the law permitted. By 2022, apathy reached its peak; following a supermarket trade tasting that year, Jancis Robinson MW wrote that \u2018this century \u2026 much of the wine on offer on British supermarket shelves has been relatively lacklustre, dominated by the need to shave pennies off the selling price\u2019. A year later, high street staple Oddbins closed its last store, a victim in part of mounting pressure from supermarkets. Nevertheless, amidst a backdrop of falling wine sales, supermarkets\u2014most notably, the German discount retailers\u2014soon began a fresh campaign to present themselves as purveyors of quality wine, exploiting new media, including in the form of emerging \u2018wine influencers\u2019. The German discounters also went further, hiring trusted Masters of Wine to cheerlead polished ranges and \u2018dispel the misconception that quality wine comes with a hefty price tag\u2019.\u00a0<\/p>\n
Whilst respected industry experts peddling cheap industrial plonk at the industry\u2019s expense is a great shame, it is with \u2018vinfluencers\u2019 that budget supermarket wine has made its greatest leap\u00a0in contemporary wine media. Arguing that falling wine sales were attributable to an anachronistic and inaccessible industry failing to attract \u2018ordinary\u2019 consumers and lucrative millennials, vinfluencers presented themselves as fresh, accessible voices prepared to rescue wine. Importantly, many were\u00a0not wine lovers, even today there are vinfluencers and \u2018wine pros\u2019 who haven\u2019t spent a dime\u00a0on wine travel, have never stepped foot inside a winery, have wine \u2018collections\u2019 consisting exclusively of press samples, and who can\u2019t tell you where Pessac-L\u00e9ognan is. This indifference makes them rich pickings for supermarkets and press agencies flogging discount freebies and paid sponsorships. So does their commendable social media success, which has seen many amass large followings. Sadly, a great deal of this\u00a0vast reach is\u00a0in service of budget wine, including endless tedious \u2018hacks\u2019 and countless vapid Reels promoting \u2018Sunday Dinner Red Wines\u2019 for \u00a35.99 and Spanish sparkling for \u00a34.99 from Lidl, Sangiovese for \u00a36.75 at Sainsbury\u2019s, and four wines under \u00a36 at Morrisons. Depressingly, this content works\u2014these same personalities regularly invoke mania for \u2018supermarket dupes\u2019, emptying shelves of budget imitations.\u00a0<\/p>\n
Upon interrogation, vinfluencers claim their adulation for supermarkets is for the greater good, hypothesising that; by educating supermarket shoppers they will inspire them to spend more, eventually undergoing\u00a0a Damascene conversion, becoming burgeoning wine lovers rushing to a local independent. They also argue that amidst a cost of living crisis, offering cheap\u00a0\u2018value\u2019 options is itself a selfless ethical pursuit; or that, faced with falling wine sales, broadening the net and making wine more accessible might help wine avoid imminent extinction. Of course, all this is for the birds. The same people buying adulterated plonk for \u00a34.99 (only several pence of wine after taxes and costs!)\u00a0will not be convinced to visit their local independent or specialist retailer (e.g., Majestic)\u00a0and spend significantly more, nor are they likely to discover a newfound love of wine in Morrison\u2019s booze\u00a0aisle\u2014the supermarkets already command huge market share, we no longer rely on them to unearth new drinkers, nor are they best placed to do so. As for a cost of living crisis, rising costs and shrinking budgets should not demand winegrowers cut costs, reduce standards and sacrifice their livelihoods for wines to be sold as loss leaders, wine is inherently more costly to produce than other popular alcoholic beverages. If\u00a0your purse is strapped, buy a cheaper alternative. Finally, wine sales may well\u00a0be declining, but there\u2019s strong evidence that it is soulless plonk suffering most at the hands of changing trends as consumers opt for more characterful wines with a story to tell.<\/p>\n
Far from benefiting the industry, budget wine lines the pockets of greedy multinationals desperate to increase their market share and bump up their profits. Worst of all, by flogging mass-produced generic wines from popular appellations at discount prices\u2014often so low the sales are loss leaders\u2014supermarkets create unrealistic price expectations which make quality wines offered by thoughtful wine merchants appear drastically overpriced. These underhand tactics have depressed prices and crowded out independents, who face increasingly challenging economic conditions. Beyond the bland insipid bottles adorning the middle shelves, \u2018premium\u2019 supermarket wines are equally uninteresting and largely overpriced, buyers would be much better off visiting\u00a0a specialist retailer where staff\u00a0will\u00a0help buyers find suitable,\u00a0quality wine at reasonable\u00a0prices which help support considerate and sustainable agronomy and better business practices. Fortunately, changing consumer preferences are stacked in favour of quality wine, and despite the supermarket\u2019s efforts to hoodwink drinkers, the public is seeking premium wines and authentic experiences. Peddling budget wine won\u2019t entice new crowds, and the sooner we abandon the fantasy that supermarket shoppers are just one budget Romanian red away from a EuroCave and a WSET Diploma the better. The future\u00a0is marrying wine and lifestyle, shopping with independent retailers, drinking in local wine bars, and enjoying characterful, fine wine in familiar settings. Supermarket wine is not our friend, and neither are those who peddle it.<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
In 1962, changes to retail licensing laws allowed supermarkets to begin selling alcohol. Ten\u00a0years later,\u00a0supermarket wine sales had grown from 5% of off-trade wine, beer and spirits\u00a0to 25%, this staggering expansion was largely attributable to Sainsbury\u2019s, Tesco, Waitrose and the Co-Op, who were first to exploit an aspirational middle class increasingly preoccupied with continental luxuries. […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":7071460,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[158954,118152],"tags":[2338,232462,33478,9182],"dealstore":[],"offerexpiration":[],"class_list":["post-7071459","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-featured-body","category-thoughts","tag-great","tag-scourge","tag-supermarket","tag-wine"],"yoast_head":"\n
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