{"id":7064062,"date":"2026-09-22T13:24:07","date_gmt":"2026-09-22T13:24:07","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/peraltafinancing.com\/recipes\/category-a-b\/beer\/tobermory-re-visited-two-pubs-plus-a-distillery\/"},"modified":"2026-09-22T13:24:07","modified_gmt":"2026-09-22T13:24:07","slug":"tobermory-re-visited-two-pubs-plus-a-distillery","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/fivemor.com\/?p=7064062","title":{"rendered":"Tobermory re-visited. Two pubs plus a distillery"},"content":{"rendered":"


\n<\/p>\n

Our accommodation during our time on the island, was a large,
\nrented country house that had probably seen better days, although it was
\nideally suited for the purposes of the course.\u00a0<\/p>\n

\n
<\/a><\/div>\n

The accommodation was divided on strictly gender lines, with
\nfemale students billeted in the house whilst us male students had to sleep
\noutside in a number of tents. There was no problem with that apart from the
\nfact we were plagued by biting insects that were at their most prevalent during
\nlate June <\/b>– mosquitoes but also horseflies. Fortunately, in the main, these
\nbiting critters left me alone, but one poor fellow student was practically
\neaten alive. <\/p>\n

<\/a><\/div>\n

I digress, but one fact worth noting was those one of the
\ntwo laboratory technicians employed by the university, who accompanied us on
\nthe course, had the foresight to bring a couple of firkins of Boddington’s
\nBitter<\/b> along. The pair had been to Mull <\/b>before and knew how dire the local beer
\nscene was, especially to for people coming from the Manchester <\/b>region.
\nBoddington’s <\/b>was still a highly regarded beer, back then, and the two casks were
\nwelcomed by students and university staff, with the possible exception of the
\ncourse leader. Our rather eccentric lecturer was not amused and claimed that
\nthe support staff had left some important equipment behind, to make room for
\nthe beer! Complete rubbish of course, and just sour grapes on his part!<\/p>\n

<\/a><\/div>\n

For the record our
\ncountry house field course base was in the village of Bunessan<\/b>, a tiny
\nsettlement of just 200 souls<\/b> in the far south of the island, in the area known
\nas the Ross of Mul<\/b>l. The village watering hole was the Bunessan Inn<\/b> (previously
\nthe Argyll Arms<\/b>), and although we made a couple of visits there, the locals
\nweren\u2019t exactly friendly. So, with Boddie\u2019s <\/b>bitter on tap, back at our study
\ncentre, and just keg McEwan\u2019s<\/b> in the village pub, we did most of our drinking
\nback at the ranch, so to speak.\u00a0<\/span>At some stage of the
\ntrip, we made a brief visit to Tobermory<\/b>, although after 50 years<\/b> I can’t quite
\nremember why we would have done that, given the remoteness of our country house
\nbase. However, the memory of that visit stuck in my mind, and on day five of
\nour \u201cTreasures of the British Isles\u201d <\/i><\/b>cruise, the opportunity of a return trip
\nto Tobermory <\/b>arose.<\/p>\n

<\/a><\/div>\n

With no significant docks or other berthing facilities on
\nthe island, our cruise ship anchored out in the sound, with passengers being
\ntransferred ashore by tender, in effect three of the ships\u2019 lifeboats. Mrs
\nPBT’s<\/b> remained on the ship, as she is not particularly mobile at the best of
\ntimes, and didn\u2019t fancy clambering in and out of a relatively small boat.\u00a0<\/p>\n

\n
<\/a><\/div>\n

The
\njourney across on the tender took about 20-25 minutes <\/b>and when I stepped ashore
\nin Tobermory,<\/b> the sun was shining, and all seemed well with the world. I headed
\nalong the waterfront into the town pausing first for a quick look at the
\nTobermory Distillery<\/b>, a business that was visited several years ago by Eileen\u2019s
\n<\/b>late brother, David.\u00a0<\/b>The town of Tobermory <\/b>and the single malt whiskey produced
\nthere, were items that were high on David\u2019s<\/b> list of places to visit. His chance
\ncame when, along with his partner Lynn<\/b>, he embarked on a similar, \u201cRound
\nBritain Cruise\u201d<\/i><\/b> to the one that Eileen<\/b> and I were enjoying.\u00a0<\/p>\n

<\/a><\/div>\n

Sadly, David<\/b> never
\nhad a chance to properly enjoy the bottle that he purchased from the Tobermory Distillery,<\/b>
\nalthough Lynn<\/b> kindly passed the bottle on to me. I\u2019m no whisky connoisseur,
\nalthough I do enjoy the occasional \u201cdram\u201d. <\/i><\/b>Those snifters are very occasional
\nthough, as two-thirds of the bottle I inherited remains un-drunk. This is
\ndespite the 12-year-old,<\/b> single malt Tobermory<\/b> whisky, being very distinctive,
\nwith a palate that is described as gently sweet, un-peated and floral. The
\ndistillery itself dates back to 1798<\/b> and is one of the oldest commercial
\ndistilleries in Scotland.\u00a0<\/b>It\u2019s true to say that the whisky embodies the character and
\nfeel of Tobermory,<\/b> so much so that whilst writing this piece, I was tempted to
\npour myself a dram and drink a toast to Eileen\u2019s <\/b>late, and much-missed brother.
\nNote: it\u2019s a very intense, and strong-tasting single malt, that is definitely
\none for sipping and savouring, rather than throwing down one\u2019s neck. Here\u2019s to
\nyou, David Cosham!<\/b><\/p>\n

<\/a><\/div>\n

Moving away from the quayside, I continued on into the town
\nand found it a charming and delightful place, with the brightly painted and
\ncolourful buildings, that are home to a myriad of local independent shops,
\nhotels, restaurants and bars. Before sampling a few of these for myself, I
\nstrolled along to the far end of the seafront and then followed a path going
\nuphill, to the location of the Isle of Mull War Memorial,<\/b> from where I enjoyed a
\npanoramic vista out over the town below. I then joined another path that led
\nback down the hillside, and into the town. Before reaching the first
\nwatering-hole of the day, I stopped to take a photo of the Tobermory Youth
\nHostel,<\/b> which is reproduced here for Stafford Paul\u2019s <\/b>benefit. I wonder if he\u2019s
\nstayed there, at all?<\/p>\n

<\/a><\/div>\n

I then ventured inside the Mishnish Hotel,<\/b> <\/a><\/u>a busy,
\nmulti-room pub on the harbour front near the ferry terminal. Painted in a
\nstand-out shade of bright yellow, this recently refurbished establishment
\noffers a number of en-suite rooms, alongside a well-regarded restaurant, serving
\nlocal produce. The bar is open until 1am in the summer, if the trade is
\nsufficiently busy, and food is served until late.\u00a0The Mishnis<\/b>h was already starting to get busy when I stepped
\ninside, and not just with people like me who\u2019d come on the cruise ship. I
\ndiscovered a number of inter-connected rooms, on the right-hand side of the
\nbuilding, and this is where the main bar is, whilst the aforementioned
\nrestaurant is on the left.\u00a0<\/p>\n

<\/a><\/div>\n

On tap was Jarl<\/b>, a legendary, Citra-session, blonde
\nale from Fyne Ales. <\/b>The beer was in good form and slipped down a treat. There
\nwas an additional cask offering, in the form of No. 47,<\/b> a house beer, also
\nbrewed by Fyne<\/b>, but it was taken off service before I departed.\u00a0<\/div>\n

\n
<\/a><\/div>\n

Satisfied with just the one beer for the time being, I
\nheaded back belong from seafront, calling in at the local bakery where I
\npurchased a tasty and rather flavoursome Cornish pasty.<\/b> I sat enjoying this
\nlunchtime offering, whilst overlooking the sea front, and followed it up with a
\nsmall tub of locally produced, ice cream. I then continued back along towards
\nthe embarkation point for the return journey to the ship, but before joining
\nthe queue there was time for one final pub visit.<\/p>\n

<\/a><\/div>\n

The pub in question was called McGochan\u2019s,<\/a><\/u><\/b> and this red-painted,
\ntwo storey pub and restaurant facing the car park at the western end of the
\nharbour was just the place to say goodbye to Mull.<\/b> The pub didn\u2019t open until
\n3pm<\/b>, which is why I didn\u2019t notice it when I arrived in Tobermory.<\/b> I clocked it
\non the way back though, and with plenty of time before the final tender, back to
\nthe ship, I left the queue I\u2019d joined a few minutes earlier, and headed off to the
\npub.<\/p>\n

<\/a><\/b><\/div>\n

McGochan\u2019s<\/b> is part of the Rocks Leisure Group<\/b>, who operate a
\nnumber of similar pubs in four other, picturesque, Scottish <\/b>locations. Their
\nTobermory <\/b>outlet was a real gem, with the mixture of contemporary and traditional
\nworking well. There were a couple of cask offerings on the bar, in the form of Ardgou
\nBrewery – Goghar Odhar,<\/b> a bit of a mouthful, but a pleasant beer, nevertheless,
\nalongside the Fyne Ales, Jarl, <\/b>that I\u2019d sampled earlier.\u00a0 <\/span>My unpronounceable beer was served to me, in
\ntip-to condition, by a pleasant and rather chatty Australian<\/b> barmaid.<\/p>\n

<\/a><\/div>\n

I was pleased not to have missed this excellent, harbourside
\npub, which rounded off nicely, my return visit to Tobermory. <\/b>After picking up a
\nfull complement of passengers, the tender set off for the ship. The sea da was a
\nlittle choppy out on the main channel, where the ship was anchored, but it wasn\u2019t
\nsomething I couldn’t really cope with. Arriving back on Ambience<\/b>, I was in time
\nto join Mrs PBT\u2019s<\/b> for afternoon tea, an event that seems something of a tradition
\non British<\/b> cruise lines. It was a fitting end to what had been a most enjoyable
\nday out in what was our final Hebridean<\/b> port of call.<\/p>\n

<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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