{"id":7060073,"date":"2026-09-18T07:22:20","date_gmt":"2026-09-18T07:22:20","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/peraltafinancing.com\/alcohol\/how-indigenous-restaurants-build-their-drink-menus\/"},"modified":"2026-09-18T07:22:20","modified_gmt":"2026-09-18T07:22:20","slug":"how-indigenous-restaurants-build-their-drink-menus","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/fivemor.com\/?p=7060073","title":{"rendered":"How Indigenous Restaurants Build Their Drink Menus"},"content":{"rendered":"


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When he opened his progressive Indigenous restaurant <\/span>Naagan<\/span><\/a> in Ontario, Canada, in late 2024, Ojibwe chef Zach Keeshig knew that he wouldn\u2019t serve wine, beer or spirits. The alcohol-related death rate among Native people in North America remains <\/span>three<\/span><\/a> to <\/span>five times<\/span><\/a> higher than the general population\u2019s\u2014statistics that, for Keeshig, are hardly abstract. He\u2019d seen many people close to him succumb to alcoholism. His own father had recently died, \u201csitting by himself, drinking.\u201d Moreover, Keeshig wanted to \u201ctell the story of what Indigenous food could be,\u201d and like white flour, processed sugar and other ingredients he\u2019d omitted from Naagan\u2019s kitchen, alcohol was not part of the pre-contact Indigenous diet. For many North American Indigenous chefs, alcohol presents a conundrum: Bar programs are cash cows and it\u2019s tough to run an upscale restaurant without one, but what kind of bar program makes sense in an Indigenous restaurant?<\/span><\/p>\n

Let\u2019s get this out of the way: The theory that Native peoples have some biological weakness to alcohol has been soundly <\/span>debunked<\/span><\/a>. Historically, that theory has functioned as a convenient blame-shifter, used as \u201cproof\u201d that Natives simply can\u2019t hold their liquor, and that \u201cthe problems Natives face have nothing to do with settler violence,\u201d says Michael D. Wise, author of <\/span>Native Foods: Agriculture, Indigeneity, and Settler Colonialism in American History<\/span><\/i><\/a>. \u201cAlcohol is this deus ex machina force that absolves American settlers.\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

Although for millennia, Indigenous peoples brewed fermented drinks and ingested mind-altering substances, particularly in ceremony, it was European settlers and their descendants who industrialized alcohol, bringing <\/span>beer<\/span><\/a> to the Americas, introducing Vitis vinifera for <\/span>wine<\/span><\/a> and eventually <\/span>distilling<\/span><\/a> spirits. By the late 1800s, the federal governments of the United States and Canada had forced hundreds of thousands of Native people off their ancestral homelands, disrupted their food sovereignty and herded them onto reservations. Most Indigenous people today live in urban and suburban environments, but those who remain in tribal communities (about <\/span>20 percent<\/span><\/a> in the United States and <\/span>40 percent<\/span><\/a> in Canada) contend with a slew of alcohol-abuse risk factors, including remoteness, lack of resources, stigma and poverty. \u201cEnvironments in which Native people live expose them to PTSD-qualifying events (<\/span>death, threatened death, actual or threatened serious injury, or actual or threatened sexual violence<\/span><\/a>) far more frequently than the environments of their non-Indian counterparts,\u201d says Spero Manson, director of the Centers for American Indian & Alaska Native Health at Colorado School of Public Health. \u201cWe\u2019re talking 60-70 percent of individuals living in tribal communities being exposed to serious trauma.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n

In Indigenous restaurants, alcohol is not neutral, so some chefs serve it with caveats. \u201cWe don\u2019t mix alcohol with medicine,\u201d says Inez Cook of First Nations restaurant <\/span>Salmon n\u2019 Bannock<\/span><\/a> in Vancouver, British Columbia. She reserves traditionally medicinal ingredients like sweetgrass and sage for mocktails. In cocktails, she showcases hard-to-come-by Indigenous ingredients, including soopolallie, or soap berries. When she can source soopolallie, she whips it into a foam to garnish a blend of orange juice, sparkling water, vodka and \u201cBella Coola tea\u201d prepared with berries, rosehips, hibiscus and maple.<\/span><\/p>\n

For Cree chef Shane Chartrand, dinners at his restaurant <\/span>Paperbirch<\/span><\/a> in Alberta, Canada, aren\u2019t ceremonial. \u201cThere\u2019s no smudging or land acknowledgement or anything,\u201d he says. \u201cThis is just the culinary arts. It\u2019s just dinner.\u201d Because of that, though he\u2019s sober himself, he feels comfortable offering local mead, beer and wine. He also acknowledges the demand for alcoholic beverages. \u201cI can only be as Indigenous as the world allows me to be at a dinner where people are paying $120,\u201d he says. Choctaw chef David Skinner of <\/span>Ishtia<\/span><\/a> in Kemah, Texas, concurs: \u201cWe don\u2019t add alcohol to any of the food,\u201d says, \u201cbut if you\u2019re spending a couple hundred dollars and three hours of your life in a restaurant, you\u2019re going to want a glass of wine or a cocktail.\u201d\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

It\u2019s true that they are going to want it. But they also might act suspicious about it: Although Natives in the food and beverage space are expected to supply booze, doing so subjects them to stereotypes. As Chiricahua Apache Nde and Rar\u00e1muri brewer and distiller Roxanne Fernandez Tiburolobo <\/span>put it<\/span><\/a>, \u201cI\u2019ve had people that I brewed with be like, \u2018Oh, you\u2019re native? I didn\u2019t know you people could have alcohol.\u2019\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n

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\u201c<\/span>To have a successful Indigenous restaurant at all, in a part of the world where Indigenous peoples have suffered so much abuse and erasure, is nothing short of remarkable.\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n<\/div>\n

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Omitting alcohol, or serving it with ambivalence, is only a piece of the puzzle in Indigenous restaurants, much less important than what Indigenous chefs are elevating\u2014their cultures, their traditions, thousands of years of history. \u201cWhen we\u2019re talking about the impact alcohol has had,\u201d says Manson, \u201cthere\u2019s another side of the coin: strength, resilience, and the assets of our communities that have allowed us to survive.\u201d To have a successful Indigenous restaurant at all, in a part of the world where Indigenous peoples have suffered so much abuse and erasure, is nothing short of remarkable.<\/span><\/p>\n

Chef Crystal Wahpepah doesn\u2019t serve alcohol in her Oakland, California-based restaurant, <\/span>Wahpepah\u2019s Kitchen<\/span><\/a>, but that\u2019s not how she phrases it: \u201cWe highlight non-alcoholic\u00a0drinks,\u201d she says. \u201cWe make Indigenous teas with ingredients that connect us to the land, our traditions, and generations of plant knowledge.\u201d At Naagan, diners can order the 12-course tasting menu with five pairings, each beverage handmade in house from foraged ingredients. Prior to every service, Keeshig picks the greenery from cedar trees in a nearby park, makes a tea from it and serves it, sweetened with birch syrup, with the first \u201csnack\u201d course. With the fish course, he offers something tart, currently a wild gooseberry juice sweetened with elderflower syrup. With the main course, a meat dish, in place of a full-bodied red, Keeshig offers a room-temperature beverage from black currant, magnolia vinegar and bee balm. \u201cYou get the smokiness, the acid, the savory flavors,\u201d he says. With dessert, he doesn\u2019t serve coffee because it\u2019s not indigenous to the Americas, either, but he makes a coffee substitute with either chicory root or dandelion root.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201cWe haven\u2019t had any complaints,\u201d Keeshig says. \u201cThe guest feedback has always been, \u2018I can\u2019t believe how good this is. I didn\u2019t miss alcohol whatsoever.\u2019\u201d<\/span><\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

When he opened his progressive Indigenous restaurant Naagan in Ontario, Canada, in late 2024, Ojibwe chef Zach Keeshig knew that he wouldn\u2019t serve wine, beer or spirits. The alcohol-related death rate among Native people in North America remains three to five times higher than the general population\u2019s\u2014statistics that, for Keeshig, are hardly abstract. He\u2019d seen […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":7060074,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[12029],"tags":[5293,3733,3768,20049,41657,12767],"dealstore":[],"offerexpiration":[],"class_list":["post-7060073","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-alcohol","tag-build","tag-culture","tag-drink","tag-indigenous","tag-menus","tag-restaurants"],"yoast_head":"\nHow Indigenous Restaurants Build Their Drink Menus - Som2ny Network<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/fivemor.com\/?p=7060073\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"How Indigenous Restaurants Build Their Drink Menus - Som2ny Network\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"When he opened his progressive Indigenous restaurant Naagan in Ontario, Canada, in late 2024, Ojibwe chef Zach Keeshig knew that he wouldn\u2019t serve wine, beer or spirits. 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