{"id":7055954,"date":"2026-09-03T14:40:44","date_gmt":"2026-09-03T14:40:44","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/peraltafinancing.com\/uncategorized\/iceland-without-a-car-3-days-of-fun-based-in-reykjavik\/"},"modified":"2026-09-03T14:40:44","modified_gmt":"2026-09-03T14:40:44","slug":"iceland-without-a-car-3-days-of-fun-based-in-reykjavik","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/fivemor.com\/?p=7055954","title":{"rendered":"Iceland Without a Car: 3 Days of Fun Based in Reykjavik"},"content":{"rendered":"


\n<\/p>\n

\n

Everyone told me I needed to rent a car in Iceland.<\/p>\n

\u201cYou can\u2019t really see the country without driving yourself,\u201d they said. \u201cThe tours are too rushed.\u201d \u201cYou\u2019ll miss everything good.\u201d<\/p>\n

Reader, I did not rent a car. And I had one of the best trips of my life.<\/p>\n

I spent three days based in Reykjavik \u2014 arriving on an early flight, taking a shuttle straight to the city, and never once worrying about driving jet lagged in weather that changes every fifteen minutes. I did a Golden Circle tour, soaked in a fjord-side hot spring that Time Out named the best thing to do in the world, ate my way through Reykjavik on a food tour, hunted puffins from a harbor boat, and stumbled into a spontaneous sing-along at an old bookstore on a Tuesday night.<\/p>\n

Not bad for a woman without car keys.<\/p>\n

Here\u2019s exactly what I did \u2014 and how you can do it too.<\/p>\n

How I Arrived (And Why the FlyBus Is Your Friend)<\/strong><\/span><\/h2>\n

I landed at Keflav\u00edk International Airport at 6 am after an overnight flight, which is the classic Iceland arrival scenario. There\u2019s no train and no subway, but there is the FlyBus<\/a>, which runs directly from the terminal to the BS\u00cd Bus Terminal in downtown Reykjavik. The ride takes about 45 minutes and costs around $30\u201335 USD. If you book the FlyBus+ upgrade, you\u2019ll get a ticket to transfer to the local bus, which probably stops very close to your hotel\u2014 worth it if you\u2019re dragging luggage and jet-lagged. Book FlyBus here<\/a>.<\/p>\n

I put my bag in a storage locker at the bus station, which was my Golden Circle departure point at 8:30 am. No stress, no navigation, no rental car agreements. Just Iceland.<\/p>\n

(Of course, there is so much of Iceland that I didn\u2019t see \u2013 I am already planning my return. I added a three-day layover to my trip to Scotland, where I was meeting nine women for one of my small group adventure tours<\/strong><\/a> (and possibly doing some recon for a future group trip!).<\/p>\n

\"Oxararfoss\"Oxararfoss<\/figure>\n

Day 1: The Golden Circle<\/span><\/h2>\n

All Day: Golden Circle Tour<\/span><\/h3>\n

I booked a small-group Golden Circle tour<\/a> that departed at 8:30 am \u2014 just 15 passengers, which made a real difference (they take up to 19). We were back by 5:30 pm, having covered three of Iceland\u2019s most iconic stops: Thingvellir National Park (where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates meet above ground \u2014 and you can have a foot in each continent), the Geysir Geothermal Area where Strokkur erupts every few minutes, and the thundering Gullfoss waterfall.<\/p>\n

Until we got to Gullfoss waterfall, Iceland was reminding me a lot of the Greater Yellowstone, where I live \u2013 big, open landscapes, cold wind, lava rock, waterfalls, hot springs, and geysers. But Gullfoss was amazing. The amount of water cascading and thundering over rock ledges was astounding.<\/p>\n

The final stop was at Kerid volcanic crater.<\/p>\n

\"Gullfoss\"Gullfoss<\/figure>\n

We also had a snack stop at Estidalur Dairy for tea\/coffee and ice cream, where you can look through the window at the cows that contributed to the ice cream. Another food stop was at Fridheimar, a huge tomato greenhouse and restaurant, which was surprisingly interesting.\u00a0<\/p>\n

Here\u2019s the thing about doing this as a guided tour rather than a self-drive: you can look out the window instead of paying attention to the road. On this tour, I watched the lava fields roll by, listened to our guide explain the geology, and arrived at each stop already oriented and curious rather than stressed about parking. It\u2019s also great for a first day after an overnight flight because you aren\u2019t driving exhausted. I definitely dozed off between some of the stops, but still got a lot out of it.<\/p>\n

The Golden Circle covers about 190 miles of southern Iceland. It\u2019s very doable as a day tour \u2014 most guided options run 7\u20138 hours and include multiple stops. I\u2019d recommend looking for small-group tours (under 20 people) over big buses if your budget allows.\u00a0<\/p>\n

Book a small group Golden Circle day tour here.<\/strong><\/a> Or a larger (and less expensive) <\/strong>Golden Circle bus tour here.<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

\"Sun\"Sun<\/figure>\n

Evening: Sun Voyager + Groceries<\/span><\/h3>\n

After the tour, I walked down to the harbor to see the Sun Voyager \u2014 J\u00f3n Gunnar \u00c1rnason\u2019s gleaming steel sculpture that looks like a Viking longship dreaming of faraway horizons. From there, you can see the Harpa Concert Hall, all glass and light, reflected in the water.<\/p>\n

I stopped at Bonus \u2014 Iceland\u2019s beloved budget grocery chain, identifiable by its cheerful pink pig logo \u2014 to grab dinner supplies and snacks for the next day. Shopping at a local grocery store is one of my favorite travel moves: the cheese salad section alone told me things about Iceland that no tour guide mentioned.<\/p>\n

\"Hvammsvik\"Hvammsvik<\/figure>\n
\n

Day 2: Hvammsvik Hot Spring + Reykjavik Food Tour<\/span><\/h2>\n

This was the day Iceland won my heart completely.<\/p>\n

Morning: Brau\u00f0 & Co<\/span><\/h3>\n

Start here. Just trust me. Brau\u00f0 & Co<\/a> is a beloved Reykjavik bakery on Frakkast\u00edgur, and their cinnamon roll \u2014 pillowy, cardamom-laced, the size of your ambitions \u2014 is one of the best things I\u2019ve eaten anywhere. Go early. The line moves fast, but the pastries go faster.<\/p>\n

\"The\"The<\/figure>\n

I went for something sweet, but they also serve savory pastries. The colorful building is worth a stop in itself.<\/p>\n

Midday: Hvammsvik Hot Spring<\/span><\/h3>\n

I took an 11 am transfer to Hvammsvik, about 45 minutes north of Reykjavik, and I cannot overstate how right this decision was.<\/p>\n

Hvammsvik is a collection of eight hot spring pools set along the shore of Hvalfj\u00f6r\u00f0ur \u2014 Whale Fjord. The pools step down toward the water, ranging from pretty warm to hot. At high tide, cold Atlantic seawater mingles with the geothermal water in the lower pool, creating something surreal: you\u2019re soaking in heat while actual ocean washes over you.\u00a0<\/p>\n

\"View\"View
View from one of the hot springs pools at Hvammsvik Hot Springs.<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

If you are up for a cold plunge, as I almost always am, you can walk into the ocean and then pop right into the hot spring pool. The water is painfully cold at 5 C, but I was glad I had the incredibly brisk experience \u2013 followed by an immediate warm up.<\/p>\n

A brand-new sauna has just opened with floor-to-ceiling views over the fjord, plus a steam room \u2014 both worth building extra time into your visit for.<\/p>\n

In 2023, Time Out Magazine named Hvammsvik the best thing to do in the world. Having been there, I have no notes.<\/p>\n

What I love about Hvammsvik compared to the Blue Lagoon: it\u2019s quieter, wilder, and more deeply connected to the landscape. It was the cozy\/outdoor experience I am always looking for. Sitting in hot water is one of my favorite things, and having the view of snow-capped mountains across the still Whale Fjord was an absolute delight.<\/p>\n

\"Whale\"Whale
Watching ducks from a Hvammsvik Hot Springs pool.<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

I booked my transfer from Reykjavik and my entrance to the hot springs together.\u00a0<\/p>\n

Book Hvammsv\u00edk entrance and transfer here.<\/strong><\/a><\/p>\n

Or you can get a transfer from Reykjavik through Puffin Taxis (yes, that\u2019s the real name) and book your hot spring admission separately. This is a little more expensive since it\u2019s a private taxi, but you can make your trip more bespoke.<\/p>\n

Book Hvammsvik transfer from Reykjavik here<\/strong><\/a>. Book Hvammsvik admission here<\/a>.\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

Either way, make sure you book your entrance to the hot springs before you go. They allow a limited number of people, which is part of what makes it so dreamy.\u00a0<\/p>\n

There is a swim-up bar and a lovely restaurant on site. They also rent swimsuits and towels, but I brought my own. And they give you the use of a locker, so you don\u2019t need to worry about your stuff while you are watching seals play from your hot spring seat.<\/p>\n

Tip:<\/strong> Check the tide tables on Hvammsvik\u2019s website before you go \u2014 the ocean-mixing experience is best at high tide.<\/p>\n

Late Afternoon: Reykjavik Food Tour<\/span><\/h3>\n

I timed my return from Hvammsvik to join a 4 pm food tour, and the timing was perfect: relaxed and glowing from the hot spring, hungry and curious, ready to eat.<\/p>\n

A food tour is one of my favorite ways to arrive in a place. In three hours, you try six or eight things you\u2019d never have ordered on your own, you learn context that makes everything taste better, and you end the evening with a mental map of the neighborhood and a list of places to go back to.<\/p>\n

\"Food\"Food<\/figure>\n

We started with Arctic char on a chickpea blini and ended with rye bread ice cream. In between there was Icelandic plokkfiskur<\/em> (boiled cod mashed with potatoes, onion, garlic, celery, white wine, cream, and butter, which doesn\u2019t sound amazing, but was so good! I might make it at home.), the famous Icelandic hot dog, traditional Icelandic lamb soup, and fermented shark chased with a local alcohol called \u201cBlack Death.\u201d The fermented shark was gross, but not as bad as the Surstr\u00f6mming we had in Sweden<\/a>.<\/p>\n

The food definitely gives you an in to Icelandic culture, but the other part that makes it so special is chatting with your guide throughout the tour. \u201cBonnie\u201d (real name Bara) was our guide, and she chatted us up the whole way. We asked her questions ranging from how to choose an authentic Icelandic sweater to what it\u2019s like growing up in Reykjavik, to so much more.<\/p>\n

The food tour doubled as dinner, which is logistically tidy and worth noting if you\u2019re building your own itinerary.\u00a0<\/p>\n

Book a Reykjavik food tour here.<\/a>\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

Evening: Sing Along<\/span><\/h3>\n

Then at 8 pm, I went the Old Bookstore<\/a> (H\u00fas m\u00e1ls og menningar) \u2014 which was recommended to me by a friend who had visited last summer. There\u2019s live sing-along music every single night starting at 8, and by the time I arrived, the place was absolutely packed. I stood (go early if you want a seat \u2014 and honestly, standing is better because you can dance a little with all your new friends).\u00a0<\/p>\n

\"Old\"Old<\/figure>\n

The whole room was singing together \u2014 strangers becoming a crowd becoming a community in about twenty minutes flat. It\u2019s the kind of thing that happens in Iceland that makes you feel connected, and it costs nothing but the price of a drink. It was so fun \u2013 even as a solo traveler.<\/p>\n

I knew the words to every song, and you will too. We belted out Abba, Johnny Cash, Bon Jovi, The Beatles, and many other upbeat, crowd-pleasing rock, pop, and folk cover songs. You don\u2019t have to sing, of course, but it\u2019s hard not to.<\/p>\n

\n
\"Close\"Close<\/figure>\n

Day 3: Pastries, Puffins, and the City<\/span><\/h2>\n

Early Morning: 280 Bakery<\/span><\/h3>\n

Not as famous as Brau\u00f0 & Co \u2014 yet \u2014 but 280 Bakery<\/a> deserves your morning. I felt it was my duty to try at least a couple of pastry shops while in Reykjavik.\u00a0<\/p>\n

The cardamom rolls are exceptional, and the broader pastry selection makes you want to linger over a second cup of tea or coffee and pretend you have nowhere to be. Consider it the under-the-radar choice for people who did their homework. They also have a cooler with cheese salad, some other snacks, and drinks.<\/p>\n

Like Brau\u00f0 & Co, it\u2019s a small shopfront with just a few seats along a window counter, but if it isn\u2019t raining, it\u2019s nice just to stand outside and munch on your cardamom roll, as I did.<\/p>\n

\"Puffin\"Puffin
Photo from my puffin tour by the Mr. Puffin guide.<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Morning: Puffin Boat Tour<\/span><\/h3>\n

I\u2019ve seen Atlantic puffins before in Scotland, and they are absurd. In the best possible way. They\u2019re small and round, and they fly like they\u2019re not entirely sure this is a good idea, and they look like tiny tuxedoed philosophers who have seen things.<\/p>\n

I took a one-hour puffin viewing tour from the Old Harbour, and an hour turned out to be exactly right \u2014 long enough to really see them, short enough to leave wanting more. The boats are comfortable, the guides are enthusiastic, and the harbor itself is pretty great to be out on.<\/p>\n

We went to two islands just a few minutes from the harbor. On Akurey Island, there were around 20,000 puffins! They were nesting on the ground, swimming around the boat, and flying through the air. We also saw black guillemots, cormorants, gulls, eider ducks, widgeons, and other birds. There is the possibility of seeing minke whales, but we didn\u2019t.<\/p>\n

\"How\"How
Photo from my puffin tour by the Mr. Puffin guide.<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The second island, Engey, had a smaller bird population, but there were still a lot! It was so fun to be up close to these adorable birds and watch them go about their morning.<\/p>\n

There are different-sized boats you can go on to get out to the puffin islands. I took the RIB boat tour, which is a little, inflatable boat with seats that are more like saddles. They can get much closer to the islands than a traditional boat. And they sit lower on the water and closer to the puffins. They gave us insulated coveralls to wear, which were very cozy. If the weather had been raining hard or super cold, I might have preferred the bigger boat, but as it turned out, I was thrilled to be zipping around on the little boat.<\/p>\n

Puffin season in Iceland runs roughly May through August<\/strong> \u2014 they arrive to breed in the spring and head back out to sea in late summer. If you\u2019re visiting outside those months, skip this one and book a whale watching tour instead (same harbor, different wildlife).<\/p>\n

Book a RIB boat puffin tour from Reykjavik here<\/strong><\/a>. <\/strong>Book a bigger boat puffin tour here<\/strong><\/a>.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Afternoon: Walking Reykjavik<\/span><\/h3>\n

Reykjavik is one of the most walkable, charming small capitals in the world. Spend your last afternoon just wandering \u2014 you\u2019ll cover a lot of ground and stumble into things no itinerary would have found for you.<\/p>\n

\"Find\"Find<\/figure>\n

What to look for:<\/strong><\/p>\n

Hallgr\u00edmskirkja<\/strong> \u2014 The iconic Lutheran church that dominates the Reykjavik skyline. The exterior is all modernist drama, concrete columns inspired by Iceland\u2019s basalt lava formations. Take the elevator to the top for views over the city. You can see this church from all over Reykjavik, and you can see all of Reykjavik from the church tower. I was glad I went to the top. Free to enter; around $12 for the lift to the tower.<\/p>\n

Laugavegur<\/strong> \u2014 The main shopping street, lined with independent boutiques, design shops, Icelandic wool sweaters, and coffee. Don\u2019t leave without at least browsing Geysir (clothing, not the water spout) or one of the handcraft stores for lopapeysa sweaters.<\/p>\n

Verzlanah\u00f6llin<\/strong> \u2014 Iceland\u2019s answer to a great thrift store, and one of the best secondhand shops I\u2019ve encountered anywhere. Located on the second floor of Laugavegur 26 (enter from Grettisgata), it operates on a booth-rental model: up to 180 individual sellers curate their own small sections, meaning the selection is massive, constantly rotating, and genuinely eclectic \u2014 up to 25,000 items on any given day. It\u2019s where you go to find a real lopapeysa (the traditional Icelandic wool sweater) at a fraction of retail price, alongside vintage 66\u00b0North gear, designer labels, handmade items, and things you can\u2019t categorize. Give it real time \u2014 this is a treasure hunt, not a quick browse. I ended up with a beautiful Lopi sweater and could have easily purchased a bunch of other items. While the prices are much lower than at the retail shops, it\u2019s still pricey.<\/p>\n

\"The\"The<\/figure>\n

The Old Harbour<\/strong> \u2014 The harbor is visually striking in a way that earns its postcard reputation: brightly painted fishing boats, historic wooden vessels, and converted industrial warehouses lining the docks. From the water\u2019s edge, you get sweeping views across Faxafl\u00f3i Bay toward the flat-topped Mount Esja, and on clear days, you can make out the glacier on the distant Sn\u00e6fellsnes Peninsula. This is also your departure point for puffin tours and whale watching, and the warehouses have been converted into some of the city\u2019s best cafes, bakeries, and seafood restaurants \u2014 I stopped at H\u00f6fnin caf\u00e9 for a matcha to warm up after the puffin tour. Stretching west from the harbor is the increasingly hip Grandi neighborhood, worth a wander for its art galleries, artisan workshops, and food halls.<\/p>\n

Outdoor art<\/strong> \u2014 Reykjavik takes its public art seriously. Beyond the Sun Voyager, keep your eyes open: murals, sculptures, and unexpected installations show up on building corners and quiet streets throughout the city. Looking for \u201cThe Unknown Bureaucrat\u201d led me to Tj\u00f6rin, a lake I enjoyed walking around.<\/p>\n

\"Outdoor\"Outdoor<\/figure>\n

Bookshops<\/strong> \u2014 If you celebrate J\u00f3lab\u00f3kafl\u00f3\u00f0 like we do (the Icelandic Christmas book flood tradition where everyone exchanges books on Christmas Eve), Reykjavik is going to be your happy place. Two shops worth seeking out: The Old Bookstore<\/a> and Reykjav\u00edk Books & Chocolate \u2014 both carry books by Icelandic authors, books about Iceland, and books set in Iceland, in English. I came home with something from each. For a country of 370,000 people, Iceland publishes an extraordinary number of books per capita, and these shops are a lovely way to bring that home with you.<\/p>\n

The Handknitting Association of Iceland<\/strong> \u2014 If you want an authentic lopapeysa straight from the hands that made it, this is the place. The sweaters are gorgeous \u2014 and priced accordingly. I didn\u2019t pull the trigger on one (But I did get one at Verzlanah\u00f6llin thrift store) , but I left with a few skeins of Icelandic wool and a mitten pattern to make my own, which felt like the right compromise between my budget and my love of a good knitting project.<\/p>\n

\n
\"Puffin\"Puffin<\/figure>\n

Other Things to Do in Reykjavik<\/span><\/h2>\n

If you have more time or want to swap out any of the above, here are experiences worth considering:<\/p>\n

Sky Lagoon<\/strong> \u2014 The upscale geothermal spa experience closest to Reykjavik, with an infinity edge pool overlooking the ocean. It\u2019s got a seven-step spa ritual (hot pool, cold plunge, sauna, steam room, body scrub, mist, warm pool) that\u2019s quite restorative. A strong alternative to the Blue Lagoon, especially right now \u2014 the Blue Lagoon has faced repeated closures due to volcanic activity on the Reykjanes Peninsula. Sky Lagoon is unaffected. Book Sky Lagoon with transfer<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Blue Lagoon<\/strong> \u2014 The Blue Lagoon is Iceland\u2019s most famous hot spring spa. It\u2019s between Reykjavik and Keflav\u00edk (where the airport is located), so it could make a good stop on your way to or from the airport. There are various transfer options, some include entry to the hot spring, others are just a ride. See Blue Lagoon options here<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Whale Watching<\/strong> \u2014 Departing from the Old Harbour, whale watching tours run 2\u20133 hours and have strong odds of minke whale sightings (humpbacks and orcas are possible seasonally). Some people I talked to saw a lot of whales, dolphins, and porpoises on their tour! A great option if you\u2019re visiting outside puffin season or you can book a combined whale and puffin watching tour. Book whale watching from Reykjavik<\/a>.<\/p>\n

FlyOver Iceland<\/strong> \u2014 An immersive motion ride that swoops you over Iceland\u2019s landscapes \u2014 glaciers, waterfalls, volcanoes \u2014 in a way that\u2019s genuinely thrilling and a good orientation to the country\u2019s geography if you\u2019re arriving fresh. Book a skip-the-line FlyOver Iceland entry<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Perlan<\/strong> \u2014 A glass dome museum and viewpoint on a hill above the city. The Northern Lights planetarium show is excellent, even if the lights themselves are playing hard to get or it\u2019s summer. Book a Perlan entry with Hop-on Hop-off bus tour<\/a>. Book a Perlan entry<\/a>.<\/p>\n

The Settlement Exhibition<\/strong> \u2014 A small, excellent museum built around an actual Viking-era longhouse excavated right in downtown Reykjavik. If you\u2019re into history, this is one of the best 45 minutes you can spend. Book the Settlement Exhibition<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Sundh\u00f6llin<\/strong> \u2014 Reykjavik\u2019s oldest public pool, open since 1937 and still one of the best \u201cdo what locals do\u201d experiences in the city. It sits right in the center on Bar\u00f3nsst\u00edgur \u2014 a short walk from Hallgr\u00edmskirkja, which was also designed by the same architect, Gu\u00f0j\u00f3n Sam\u00faelsson. There\u2019s an indoor pool, outdoor pool, geothermal hot pots, cold tub, sauna, and steam room. Affordable, unpretentious, and genuinely social in the Icelandic way. A great option before or after an evening on Laugavegur. This got great reviews from a German I was chatting with at Hvammsv\u00edk. I ran out of time on this trip \u2014 it\u2019s first on my list for my return.\u00a0<\/p>\n

\n
\"a\"a<\/figure>\n

Where to Stay in Reykjavik<\/span><\/h2>\n

Stay downtown. This is not optional if you\u2019re traveling without a car, because almost every guided tour picks up and drops off at city-center hotels or the BSI bus station. Being within walking distance of the harbor, Hallgr\u00edmskirkja, Laugavegur, and the tour departure points makes your whole trip smoother.<\/p>\n

That said, there is a public bus system that\u2019s easy to use and affordable. Just plug in your destination on Google Maps and choose the public transportation option to find the next bus. You can pay on the bus with a credit card or Apple Pay.<\/p>\n

The neighborhood to aim for is Mi\u00f0borg (the 101 postal code) \u2014 the central district. Here are a few reliable options across price points:<\/p>\n

Splurge: <\/strong>Hotel Borg<\/strong><\/a> \u2014 Art Deco landmark right on Austurv\u00f6llur Square, the closest thing Reykjavik has to a grand classic hotel. Walking distance from everything.<\/p>\n

Mid-range: <\/strong>Canopy by Hilton Reykjavik City Centre<\/strong><\/a> \u2014 Well-located, modern, consistently good reviews. Good breakfast.<\/p>\n

Mid-range: <\/strong>Apotek Hotel<\/strong><\/a> \u2014 Housed in a beautifully converted old pharmacy building. Charming, central, well-regarded.<\/p>\n

Mid-range \u2013 Budget:<\/strong> Oddsson Hotel<\/a> <\/strong>\u2014 This is where I stayed, and I loved it. It\u2019s a self-check-in, has a large, clean, modern bathroom\u2026 in fact, the whole room was meticulously clean and modern. The kitchenette made it easy to have budget meals from the nearby Bonus grocery store, and there is a bakery attached \u2013 yum! The only disadvantage is that it is about a 15-minute walk to Hallgr\u00edmskirkja (the big church) and Laugavegur (the shopping street), and almost 30 minutes to the Old Harbour. I am a walker, so it was no problem for me, and there are local buses. I will stay here again.<\/p>\n

Budget: <\/strong>Kex Hostel<\/strong><\/a> \u2014 A beloved Reykjavik institution in a converted biscuit factory (kex = biscuit). Great common spaces, good bar, popular with solo travelers.<\/p>\n

Budget: <\/strong>Loft Hostel<\/strong><\/a> \u2014 Rooftop terrace with views, central location, clean, and social. The rooftop is worth the price of admission on its own.<\/p>\n

Search all downtown Reykjavik hotels:<\/p>\n