{"id":7054429,"date":"2026-09-02T01:34:56","date_gmt":"2026-09-02T01:34:56","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/peraltafinancing.com\/anthropology\/rural-affective-economies-foodanthropology\/"},"modified":"2026-09-02T01:34:56","modified_gmt":"2026-09-02T01:34:56","slug":"rural-affective-economies-foodanthropology","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/fivemor.com\/?p=7054429","title":{"rendered":"Rural Affective Economies \u2013 FoodAnthropology"},"content":{"rendered":"


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Michele Filippo Fontefrancesco. Rural Affective Economies: An Ethnographic Approach to Local Developmen<\/em> in Rural Italy<\/em>.<\/a> Palgrave Macmillan. 2024. xiii, 223 pages. eBook ISBN\u00a0978-3-031-70826-8.<\/p>\n

Carole Counihan (Professor Emerita of Anthropology, Millersville University)<\/p>\n

carole.counihan@millersville.edu<\/a><\/p>\n

This insightful book confronts the interrelated problems of rural depopulation, global climate change, and the decline of small-scale agriculture in Italy and suggests strategies to counter them.\u00a0\u00a0Anthropologist Michele Filippo Fontefrancesco uses detailed, long-term, multi-sited ethnography in several struggling villages in northwest Italy\u2019s Piedmont Region to uncover \u201cwhich resources a local community can leverage to promote grassroots local development initiatives successfully\u201d (6) while \u201censuring sustainability and building resilience for communities, to preserve biodiversity and cultural diversity\u201d (8). He focuses in particular on local heritage products from the agrifood sector as these have excellent potential for revitalizing rural affective economies.<\/p>\n

Chapter 2, \u201cApocalyptic Atmosphere,\u201d describes the depopulation of the countryside and the decline of rural culture through a focus on the village of San Giovanni in the Monferrato area of the Piedmont region.\u00a0\u00a0Focusing on the concept of\u00a0paese<\/em>\u00a0or village, \u201ca place of belonging\u201d (35), Fontefrancesco tells six villagers\u2019 life stories to illustrate the massive transformations in rural social and economic life. The vivid recollections of older villagers describe the decline in cultivated lands, the abandonment and crumbling of rural dwellings, the loss of small businesses and shops, the lack of jobs and opportunities for young people, and the shrinking community.\u00a0\u00a0Their tales cry out for \u201ca different affective economy for the community, projecting San Giovanni from the atmosphere of apocalypse and ruin to that of development\u201d (48).<\/p>\n

Chapter 3, \u201cJust Agriculture?\u201d, asks, \u201cCan agriculture, in and of itself, (re)build the core of the economy and, thus, the affective economy of San Giovanni?\u201d (54-55). It documents agriculture\u2019s \u201cprogressive socioeconomic marginalization\u201d through the history of San Giovanni\u2019s three main crops\u2013cereals, hazelnuts, and grapes (55). Like so many villages in Italy, San Giovanni\u2019s long history of agricultural production began to decline after World War II as growing land fragmentation made agriculture more challenging and residents increasingly migrated to urban centers in search of better paying, more prestigious, and less taxing jobs.\u00a0\u00a0Today only a few agricultural enterprises are large enough to sustain families.\u00a0\u00a0Wheat and maize are the most important crops, but the price of wheat has dropped significantly in the past decade, threatening farm livelihoods. Farmers started growing hazelnuts seriously about twenty years ago and they have proved to be a more lucrative crop than wheat or grapes, a lifeline for villagers who believe in the potential of agriculture. Fontefrancesco writes, \u201cFor all those interviewed, agriculture is always related to the future and, to some extent, to hope\u201d (72). But for agriculture to provide a solution it needs to have a foundation \u201cin specific local products\u201d (75).<\/p>\n

Fontefrancesco goes on to examine three specific local products from three different communities to explore the conditions fostering a product\u2019s development and valorization.\u00a0\u00a0\u201cIt must have the ability to align the expectations of various community\u2019s share- and stakeholders and, above all, must be an element capable of creating a solid bond between the territory and the community. In other words, the product should have a centrality in the community\u2019s life\u201d (83). Chapter 4, \u201cBe Central!\u201d examines one such product, the\u00a0Formatge di San Lazzaro<\/em>, a heritage cheese produced in a small remote alpine village from the milk of cows fed only with local hay.\u00a0\u00a0This cheese has a longstanding place in the community and expresses rich relations between producers, consumers and the environment. As Tina, the proprietor of the only grocery store left in San Lazzaro put it, \u201cIt\u2019s our cheese. It\u2019s ours because generations have been making it: it\u2019s the result of hard work and the love we put into cultivating these mountains and caring for our animals\u201d (89).\u00a0<\/p>\n

Chapter 5, \u201cMake It Central!\u201d counters the received wisdom that only heritage products can spur development by examining the case of a newly invented product\u2014Torta Mattone<\/em>\u00a0or Brick Cake\u2014in the village of Bressana Bottarone. Tied to the community\u2019s long history of brick-making, this product has become \u201ca fundamental resource for tourism development\u2014and thus for local development\u201d (18). Torta Mattone involves \u201ca story of gastronomic creation and an active search for local typicality\u2026 through a confectionery product and a festival\u201d (104). Exploiting the growing interest in gastronomic tourism, Bressana used the festival to stir up interest in the cake and strengthen its embeddedness in the community, benefitting from its centrality to stakeholders\u2014the local government, non-profit organizations, pastry producers, and local residents. Torta Mattone shows that new products can inspire economic development just as heritage products can if they involve key community stakeholders, reflect central cultural concerns, and achieve spatial and temporal continuity.<\/p>\n

Chapter 6, \u201cHere It Is!\u201d, presents a case of applied development anthropology by showing how to investigate which products achieve centrality and are suitable for promoting. Based on his participation in a government-backed effort to revitalize the dying rural villages in the province of Alessandria, Fontefrancesco shows how ethnography can identify the community\u2019s leverageable resources, particularly its culinary heritage. He describes\u00a0food scouting\u2014the ethnographic identification of foods with historical centrality, contemporary practitioners, and environmental suitability. He\u00a0looks at the rediscovery of chestnut production in Carrera Ligure where it has been important since the Roman Era and shows how a heritage product that has fallen out of use can be revitalized to stimulate the local economy and attract tourism.\u00a0<\/p>\n

Chapter\u00a07, \u201cBe Aware!\u201d, focuses on short agrifood chains (SACs) in Italy and their potential for spurring the economy by enhancing the value of food products that tie together diverse economic actors. This chapter aims to pull together the material in the previous chapters to provide a model for entrepreneurs and policy-makers interested in developing viable heritage food products. It outlines the conditions for success and the challenges faced because SACs are typically small-scale, economically fragile and distant from significant markets.<\/p>\n

The book is a valuable resource for students, scholars and policy-makers around the globe interested in leveraging food products to revitalize moribund communities and economies. It goes beyond vague idealized hopes for gastronomic regeneration to analyze case studies where products are successful because culturally and historically central, environmentally appropriate, and meaningful to diverse stakeholders. Fontefrancesco\u2019s rich ethnographic data on the communities and their products animate the book and enhance its accessibility to students at all levels. The stories of Italian villagers give life to concepts such as marginalization, affective economies, development, and heritage foods, and they engage readers in an empathetic understanding of the dilemmas of modern agricultural economies.\u00a0<\/p>\n

Related<\/em><\/h3>\n<\/p><\/div>\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Michele Filippo Fontefrancesco. Rural Affective Economies: An Ethnographic Approach to Local Developmen in Rural Italy. Palgrave Macmillan. 2024. xiii, 223 pages. eBook ISBN\u00a0978-3-031-70826-8. Carole Counihan (Professor Emerita of Anthropology, Millersville University) carole.counihan@millersville.edu This insightful book confronts the interrelated problems of rural depopulation, global climate change, and the decline of small-scale agriculture in Italy and suggests […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":7054431,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[11767],"tags":[15898,24145,15290,4243],"dealstore":[],"offerexpiration":[],"class_list":["post-7054429","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-anthropology","tag-affective","tag-economies","tag-foodanthropology","tag-rural"],"yoast_head":"\nRural Affective Economies \u2013 FoodAnthropology - Som2ny Network<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/fivemor.com\/?p=7054429\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Rural Affective Economies \u2013 FoodAnthropology - Som2ny Network\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Michele Filippo Fontefrancesco. 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