{"id":7045870,"date":"2026-08-24T09:35:42","date_gmt":"2026-08-24T09:35:42","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/peraltafinancing.com\/agriculture\/in-remote-modoc-county-women-form-backbone-of-agriculture\/"},"modified":"2026-08-24T09:35:42","modified_gmt":"2026-08-24T09:35:42","slug":"in-remote-modoc-county-women-form-backbone-of-agriculture","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/fivemor.com\/?p=7045870","title":{"rendered":"In remote Modoc County, women form \u2018backbone\u2019 of agriculture"},"content":{"rendered":"


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In remote Modoc County, women form \u2018backbone\u2019 of agriculture<\/span>
\nMHsu<\/span><\/span>
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Michael Hsu<\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n
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Women integral to prosperity of farms, ranches, communities across sparsely populated region<\/em><\/h2>\n

Ary West just wants to farm and market her produce. But, as one of only 8,600 residents of far-flung Modoc County in California\u2019s northeastern corner, she finds herself producing \u201ceverything\u201d to help feed the scattered communities across the region.<\/p>\n

In addition to growing fruits and vegetables in her garden and orchard at Trouble Valley Farm, West also sells chicken eggs, pasture-raised pork and a variety of baked goods. <\/p>\n

\u201cI don\u2019t necessarily want to sell everything, but I\u2019ve slowly picked up items that nobody else is offering because I\u2019m trying to round out the farmers market and the food hub,\u201d West said.<\/p>\n

\u201cThe second I find someone else who will make bread, I will stop making bread!\u201d she added with a laugh. \u201cI really want to grow produce and I just kind of got stuck doing absolutely everything right now.\u201d<\/p>\n

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Image<\/div>\n
\"Ary<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>
Ary West holds a freshly harvested armful of garlic at Trouble Valley Farm, her diversified farmstead outside Alturas. Photo by Jon Odgers<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

In Modoc, the general task of \u201cdoing absolutely everything\u201d quite often falls to women \u2013 even though they comprise about 51% of the population. That includes supporting agriculture, the primary economic engine of the region\u2019s private sector.<\/p>\n

\u201cYou really can\u2019t talk about agriculture in Modoc County, specifically, without talking about women,\u201d West said.<\/p>\n

On top of operating her own farm business, West also oversees Modoc Harvest, a program under local nonprofit T.E.A.C.H., Inc<\/a>. Originally created to administer the farmers market and advocate for stronger food systems in the area, Modoc Harvest now encompasses a range of food access and nutrition education programs.<\/p>\n

In her capacity running two farmers markets and a food hub that aggregates and distributes farm products, West works to market the wares of 16 local agri-food operations. All of them \u2013 save for one \u2013 are owned or co-owned by women.<\/p>\n

\u201cWomen are not a small or specialized part of agriculture; they are, at the least, a piece of the backbone of the entire system here in Modoc,\u201d West said.<\/p>\n

\u2018No paper ceiling\u2019: Opportunities for women abound in rural communities<\/h3>\n
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\"Laura<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>
Every year, Modoc County Cattlewomen make lunch for youth and volunteers in the Modoc Ag in the Classroom program. Photo by Laura Snell<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Laura Snell<\/a>, director of University of California Cooperative Extension in Modoc County, said that when she arrived in Modoc in 2015, the majority of the five-member Board of Supervisors were female. Currently, two women lead the board, Chair Geri Byrne and Vice Chair Kathie Rhoads.<\/p>\n

\u201cWe have strong representation in our local government, city council [of Alturas, the county seat] and school boards; and women play a really important role in agriculture in Modoc,\u201d said Snell. She noted that it\u2019s rare in California for the county agricultural commissioner and deputy agricultural commissioner to both be female \u2013 as is the case in Modoc.<\/span><\/p>\n

Snell herself exemplifies the \u201cdo everything\u201d modus operandi of women in the area.<\/p>\n

\u201cI\u2019m currently president of our morning Rotary Club; I’m running things at home and raising two kids; I\u2019m director of county Cooperative Extension; I\u2019m doing research on livestock; I\u2019m treasurer of our train historical society,\u201d Snell explained. \u201cIt\u2019s just a lot of hats.\u201d<\/p>\n

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\"Ary<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>
Ary West coordinates the Cedarville Farmers Market, part of her work strengthening local food and market access for Modoc County producers and consumers. Photo by Tanja Ramming<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

In Modoc County, all people \u2013 including women \u2013 have greater opportunities to take on roles that might be closed to them in other places. West, who grew up in Petaluma, moved to Modoc from Reno. She described herself as a \u201ccareer bartender\u201d who had held every type of position in the restaurant business, from dishwasher to manager.<\/p>\n

But without formal post-secondary education, she felt she was not \u201cpaper qualified\u201d when she became the executive director of Modoc Harvest. In this \u201csink or swim\u201d situation, she learned on the fly and leaned on the wisdom of the nonprofit\u2019s co-founder<\/a>, Laurie \u201cLio\u201d Wayne.<\/p>\n

\u201cThere\u2019s no \u2018paper ceiling\u2019 here, and that\u2019s something that doesn\u2019t happen everywhere; there\u2019s a lot more opportunity to be whatever you want to be out here \u2013 and not just if you want to run a food nonprofit,\u201d West said. \u201cLiterally anything.\u201d<\/p>\n

And it\u2019s not just Modoc\u2019s remote location that presents greater opportunities for women \u2013 it\u2019s the very nature of agricultural work itself.<\/p>\n

\u201cAgriculture can be a way for women to kind of do it all, which is really special,\u201d said Snell, who has two children, ages 2 and 4, and also manages an agritourism business on the side. \u201cThere\u2019s flexibility so they can run a home agri-food operation\u2026while also really being a central part of raising their kids.\u201d<\/p>\n

\u2018Town jobs\u2019 crucial to sustaining livelihoods of farmers, ranchers<\/h3>\n

Laurie Wayne<\/a>, who now serves as the UCCE community nutrition, health and food systems advisor for Modoc, Lassen and Siskiyou counties, works to expand markets for local producers. But given the short growing season and the limited number of potential customers in the area, many farmers and ranchers pursue other forms of income.<\/p>\n

\u201cVirtually every farm that\u2019s of any size depends on off-farm income, sometimes just for benefits,\u201d Wayne said.<\/p>\n

In addition to owning Bidwell Canyon Farm, Leah Larsen co-founded the Surprise Valley Farmers Market and Modoc Harvest with Wayne to open up more opportunities to sell the produce from their farms. Even still, Larsen said both she and her husband have to supplement their sales to support their family.<\/p>\n

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\"Leah<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>
Leah Larsen, seen here with her prized head lettuce, says she must supplement sales of her fresh produce with other income. Photo by Jonathan Hover<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\u201cIt\u2019s really hard to make a living just in agriculture in Modoc County \u2013 unless you\u2019re sending your products outside \u2013 because our population is so small,\u201d said Larsen, who grows fruits and vegetables on one acre in Fort Bidwell. \u201cIncome from our fresh produce, it\u2019s not something we can raise our family on, unfortunately; I wish it was enough, but we just haven\u2019t found a way to do that. So we have always had a job off-farm for other income.\u201d<\/p>\n

Historically, in rural communities, it would often be the husband who worked on the ranch while the woman held the \u201ctown job\u201d for benefits like health insurance, according to Snell. But in more recent times, the roles are reversing for heterosexual couples.<\/p>\n

\u201cI feel like now it\u2019s more equal opportunity \u2013 I see a lot of women who are staying home and they\u2019re sending their husbands to go get the job in town,\u201d Snell said. \u201cDue to the capacity needs in our rural community, there are a variety of jobs for people that can be filled by either spouse.\u201d<\/p>\n

In her role as UC Cooperative Extension livestock and natural resources advisor, Snell helps organize the Modoc County Cattlewomen\u2019s group, which comprises about 50 members. Over the last 10 years, she has observed that women are increasingly part of the day-to-day tasks of ranching operations.<\/p>\n

\u201cWe\u2019ve had to start meeting in the evenings and weekends because they\u2019re not home during the day \u2013 they\u2019re out working cattle, branding, doing the actual operations of the ranch,\u201d Snell said.<\/p>\n

Women balance family demands, farming, ranching and office work<\/h3>\n
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\"Leah<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>
Leah Larsen of Bidwell Canyon Farm shows off a first harvest of tomatoes and peppers from her hoophouse. Photo by Maya Taylor<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Larsen, who grew up in Susanville, moved back to the area 13 years ago to be closer to her parents. With her builder husband tackling the infrastructure projects on their small farm, Larsen started growing produce and added new crops to the garden block every year. She also worked to cultivate the local food movement by establishing and managing the farmers market and a local food nonprofit\u2026all while raising two young daughters.<\/p>\n

\u201cWomen tend to know how to do a lot of things, because there\u2019s a lot of pressure to be caring for your family and also contributing financially and potentially running a farm or a business,\u201d explained Larsen, who handles the planting, weeding, harvesting, processing, marketing, accounting and payroll for two part-time employees on the farm.<\/p>\n

\u201cI think it\u2019s in the nature of women to nurture and want to feed people,\u201d Larsen added, \u201cand they have the ability to make that happen because they can focus on a lot of different areas at once and get things done.\u201d<\/p>\n

Kelsey Arreche can certainly relate. Growing up on a commercial cattle ranch in Sierra Valley, Arreche gained experience in animal husbandry and the business side of agriculture by participating in 4-H throughout her youth. By raising and selling sheep and steers, she was able to help pay for her own college education.<\/p>\n

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\"Kelsey<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>
Kelsey Arreche prepares boxes of Cow Creek Meat products for shipping. Photo courtesy of Kelsey Arreche<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\u201cI learned a lot about responsibility and the importance of work ethic \u2013 taking care of animals before taking care of yourself,\u201d Arreche explained, \u201cand how to manage money, recordkeeping, keeping everything straight and knowing the cost of things.\u201d<\/p>\n

She has put all those skills to use at Cow Creek Meat. Arreche and her husband purchased his family\u2019s ranch in Cedarville and started their cattle herd in 2017. Beginning by selling beef in 2022, they have since expanded to a full spectrum of proteins \u2013 pork, lamb, chicken and turkey, all raised with natural and organic principles.<\/p>\n

While managing many behind-the-desk aspects of their operation, Arreche also takes on the daily tasks of animal stewardship. Feeding is still her favorite job, as it gives her a \u201csense of peace\u201d simply being with the animals.<\/p>\n

\u201cWe used to feed our cows and just want to sit there and watch them eat because it was really therapeutic,\u201d Arreche said. \u201cWe could kind of get away from everything else going on and just relax.\u201d<\/p>\n

Contributions of female farmers sometimes undervalued, underappreciated<\/h3>\n

As with any occupation, however, there are aspects of ranching and farming that are less pleasant. For Arreche, it\u2019s the social media part of marketing \u2013 which conflicts with how she wants to bring up her two young children.<\/p>\n

\u201cI don\u2019t want to be on my phone in front of my kids all the time,\u201d she said. \u201cSocial media gets really old; you try to find ideas on there and then you find yourself scrolling and you\u2019re like, \u2018Oh my gosh, I\u2019ve been sitting here doing nothing for 30 minutes and I haven\u2019t produced anything!\u2019\u201d<\/p>\n

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\"Kelsey<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>
Kelsey Arreche says she must balance the demands of her business with family time. Photo by Kelsey Arreche<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

While recognizing the importance of raising the visibility of their products, Arreche also acknowledges that the marketing work is difficult for her.<\/p>\n

\u201cRaising the animals is easy; sure, things can go wrong with them, but in the grand scheme of things, it\u2019s very easy compared to juggling those other tasks,\u201d she said.<\/p>\n

It\u2019s not unusual for ag producers to struggle with the off-farm or off-ranch aspects of agriculture, according to West, the Modoc Harvest manager who is also a farmer.<\/p>\n

\u201cPeople who go into farming are typically not people who are good at or interested in marketing and advertising and talking to the public,\u201d she said. \u201cThe person growing your carrots is usually not the best person to tell you why you should buy their carrots.\u201d<\/p>\n

In heterosexual couples, women often are assigned those communications and public relations functions \u2013 along with other tasks that might be taken for granted. West said that women frequently do the \u201cunpaid or underpaid work,\u201d whether it\u2019s talking to customers or applying for grants or cooking for everyone in the household.<\/p>\n

\u201cEven when a farm is run by \u2018just a man,\u2019 he\u2019s often being fed by a woman, right?\u201d West said. \u201cThere\u2019s the behind-the-scenes and unacknowledged labor of agriculture that we might not really consider \u2013 but that is actually \u2018ag work.\u2019\u201d<\/p>\n

Another challenge West has experienced is that people sometimes assume that her fianc\u00e9 \u2013 a man \u2013 is the one running the operation. She credits him for being supportive of her farm dream, but the business is totally hers.<\/p>\n

\u201cThere\u2019s sort of a reluctance to deal with me as the farm owner, the second that there\u2019s a man nearby,\u201d West explained. \u201cPeople see a man around and they feel like they should be dealing with him \u2013 when actually he\u2019ll be the first person to redirect the question and be like, \u2018Ask the boss.\u2019\u201d<\/p>\n

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\"Ary<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>
Ary West sells produce and baked goods from Trouble Valley Farm at a Modoc Certified Farmers Market. Photo by Ary West<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Such assumptions flow from long-ingrained gender stereotypes of farming as a vocation.<\/p>\n

\u201cHistorically you\u2019ll see the image of \u2018the farmer and his wife,\u2019\u201d West said, \u201cAnd you\u2019re like: What was the wife doing while her husband is farming all day? Oh, she\u2019s also tending to the farm! So it\u2019s not \u2018the farmer and his wife\u2019 \u2013 it\u2019s just two farmers.\u201d<\/p>\n

Women fill larger role in leadership, entrepreneurship and innovation<\/h3>\n

There is hope that those stereotypes can change as more women play a prominent and visible role in agriculture \u2013 a trend plainly visible in Modoc County. Snell, the UC Cooperative Extension livestock advisor, said that she is seeing more families incorporate girls into the operations of their ranch. <\/p>\n

\u201cThere are more daughters and more granddaughters, I think, than there\u2019s ever been,\u201d Snell said. \u201cThey\u2019re taking the opportunity to nurture the next generation on the ranch.\u201d <\/p>\n

Beyond raising children, women are also cultivating the future of agriculture by pioneering new enterprises and strengthening local food systems.<\/p>\n

\u201cWomen are making a pretty significant contribution on that front, especially from the standpoint of being willing to try something new,\u201d Snell observed. \u201cIn Cooperative Extension, we talk about those \u2018early adopters,\u2019 and I find a good chunk of our early adopters, especially in food systems, are women.\u201d<\/p>\n

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Lio Wayne (far left) and Laura Snell (in black apron), both of the local UC Cooperative Extension office, pose with volunteers and children in Modoc County’s first Junior Master Food Preserver Class. Photo courtesy of Laura Snell<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

As a case in point: The Modoc County Cattlewomen\u2019s group held \u2013 for the first time \u2013 a beef preservation workshop this past spring. The 30 attendees (nearly all women) made beef jerky, used a freeze dryer to make MREs (Meals, Ready to Eat) and pressure-canned beef and vegetable soup.<\/p>\n

Inspired by the experience and the skills they acquired, a mother-daughter duo is planning to add a commercial kitchen to their farm so they can make freeze-dried meals for camping\/backpacking or emergency preparedness. Snell also mentioned a woman who, after participating in a UC Master Food Preserver class on flavored salts, started selling an Italian seasoning blend and garlic salt made with the garlic she grew.<\/p>\n

Recently, Snell and Wayne helped connect Modoc County producers with a local pharmacy that had moved into a former Rite Aid store \u2013 and now the previously empty freezers are filled with meats and other products from the community.<\/p>\n

\u201cLaura and Lio, they\u2019re just really \u2018present\u2019 here and you see them everywhere,\u201d Larsen said. \u201cAt anything to do with ag, they\u2019re there; we just got really lucky with those two.\u201d<\/p>\n

Praising Lio Wayne as an indispensable mentor in the ag and food space, West cited the UCCE duo as another example of how women are leaders in the community.<\/p>\n

\u201cWomen are running farms and ranches, yes, but they\u2019re also leading the ag commissioner\u2019s office; they\u2019re leading the [University of California Cooperative] Extension office; they\u2019re providing ag education and managing the farmers markets \u2013 both my farmers market managers are women,\u201d West said. \u201cWhen I have a question, the person that I need to call is always a woman.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

<\/div>\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

In remote Modoc County, women form \u2018backbone\u2019 of agriculture MHsu August 20th, 2026 Michael Hsu Women integral to prosperity of farms, ranches, communities across sparsely populated region Ary West just wants to farm and market her produce. 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