You wouldn\u2019t necessarily expect this small, windswept Atlantic port to be one of Morocco\u2019s best places to eat. But Essaouira has always been a crossroads, shaped over the centuries by Portugal and France and layered over its Berber, Arab and Jewish roots, and all of that history turns up on the plate. Fresh fish straight off the boats, fragrant tagines, Italian trattorias hidden down medina alleys, rooftop tables that fill at sunset. For such a small city, the choice is enormous.<\/p>\n
We\u2019ve eaten our way around town over several visits, so this guide pulls together our favourite restaurants in Essaouira, the ones worth booking, the best cheap eats, and what to order when you get there.<\/p>\n
Short on time? Here\u2019s where to start:<\/p>\n Best for a special dinner:<\/strong> La Cl\u00e9 de Vo\u00fbte, La Coupole Essaouira Beach Roughly how much:<\/strong> a meal for a family of four at a smart restaurant comes in around \u00a320-\u00a330 per person with drinks<\/strong>. Street food and caf\u00e9 breakfasts cost a fraction of that. Alcohol is the one thing priced closer to European levels.<\/p>\n Until the 1960s, Essaouira was known by its Portuguese name, Mogador, and that trading-port past is exactly why the food here is so varied. Waves of merchants, sailors and settlers all left something behind, so alongside the local cuisine you\u2019ll find French bistro plates, Spanish influences, Italian pasta and European fusion, often on the same street. Even the traditional Moroccan cuisine here has its own coastal accent, built around the day\u2019s catch as much as the spice box.<\/p>\n The spices are the constant. Cumin, cinnamon, paprika and saffron scent almost everything, from a slow-cooked tagine to a bowl of harira lentil soup. And then there\u2019s amlou<\/strong>, the nutty, moreish spread made from ground roasted almonds, argan oil and honey that\u2019s surprisingly good on warm bread at breakfast. Argan trees grow only in this corner of Morocco, so Essaouira is one of the best places anywhere to try it.<\/p>\n The choice of restaurants, caf\u00e9s and bars is huge, with the heaviest concentration packed inside the medina walls. Turn left or right through the maze of streets, and you\u2019ll find ornate doorways opening onto Tardis-like eateries, and cool, contemporary bars lit by traditional lanterns and candlelight. Head out along the seafront instead, and you reach a cluster of chic, boho places where you can watch camels being led across the sand against a backdrop of crashing waves.<\/p>\n The walled medina, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is where most of your meals will happen, and half the fun is stumbling on somewhere you\u2019d never have found on a map. On every corner you\u2019ll come across something to eat, whether it\u2019s backpackers pulling up plastic stools for eggs and bread, little caf\u00e9s serving strong coffee and slices of cake, or the market stalls sitting among fishmongers, bread sellers and argan oil merchants.<\/p>\n Place Moulay Hassan, the main square, is the natural hub, ringed with caf\u00e9s and crepe stands and perfect for people-watching over a mint tea. From there the streets fan out, and the rewards are down the quieter alleys, where you\u2019ll find the hidden doorways that lead somewhere special.<\/p>\n We loved it here. Set in the heart of the medina, its entrance tucked between rugs for sale, Dar Baba<\/a> is cool and contemporary with a Moroccan twist. Three dimly lit floors, brilliant interiors, hanging chandeliers and basket lanterns, pink walls and pops of colour.<\/p>\n The drinks are excellent \u2013 my margarita was made perfectly, and the menu leans European with a Spanish accent. I had punchy chicken and preserved lemon croquettes and some wonderfully tender octopus. The kids had steak, my friend had lamb that fell apart at the fork. There\u2019s a rooftop and a good bar too, so it works just as well for a drink as a full dinner.<\/p>\n Salut Maroc<\/a> is another favourite we keep coming back to. A lively spot with two-tiered rooftop dining, and the Gnaoua musicians here are excellent. Be warned, it\u2019s high up and can get chilly, though the staff will bring you blankets. We prefer the first tier, under the heaters.<\/p>\n The menu isn\u2019t huge, but the food is good. We had a seafood paella loaded with prawns, calamari and mussels, while the kids devoured the burgers. The chips are a hit, huge rectangles stacked on the plate. It\u2019s loud and lively, so don\u2019t come here for a quiet candlelit dinner \u2013 come for the atmosphere. This is also where the kids dared me to get up and dance to the Gnaoua, and I did, joining half the waiting staff. They were mortified. I loved it.<\/p>\n Wander through the medina towards the old Jewish quarter, and the little blue chairs and yellow tablecloths of this family restaurant catch your eye. It\u2019s a lovely spot for traditional Moroccan food away from the crowds, and everyone was jealous of my meatball and egg tagine, deeply tomatoey and tasty, with the whole table dipping their khobz (bread) into it. Great menu, warm welcome, and a good place to duck into when you need a breather from the medina.<\/p>\n If you want one standout dinner in Essaouira, book this one. Hidden down a small alley near the French Institute on Rue Laalouj, it\u2019s easy to walk straight past. Inside, it\u2019s a husband-and-wife team, with the wife heading up the kitchen, cooking a refined fusion of French and Moroccan built around the market and the day\u2019s catch. The lamb shank is the dish everyone talks about, but the crab ravioli, the giant prawns and the monkfish are all worth your time, and there\u2019s a real wine list to go with them, which is rarer than you\u2019d think in Morocco. Prices are higher by local standards but a fraction of what this level of cooking would cost in Europe.<\/p>\n A small, stylish room decked out in salvaged wood and playful retro furniture from the sixties and seventies, The Loft<\/a> is a fun change from traditional Moroccan cooking. The menu is Mediterranean and seafood-led, and the dish to order is the avocado and crab tartare, closely followed by the grilled octopus. It doesn\u2019t serve alcohol, but the fresh juices and mint tea more than do the job. Book ahead, as it\u2019s small and popular.<\/p>\n A warm, family-run place<\/a> in the heart of the medina, on Rue d\u2019Agadir, serving classic Moroccan and Mediterranean cooking. Think tagines, couscous, grilled fish and a rotating board of daily specials, all at fair prices. The owner speaks several languages and goes out of his way to make you feel welcome, and the candlelit room is a cosy spot for dinner. Regulars rave about the tuna steak and the crispy goat\u2019s cheese starter.<\/p>\n Blink, and you\u2019ll miss this tiny Italian restaurant, hidden down an alley off the medina\u2019s main thoroughfare. Run by an Italian family, it could be a trattoria in a little Italian village, and it\u2019s the spot to head to when you want a break from Moroccan food. The freshly made pizzas are excellent, with a long list of toppings, and there\u2019s pasta, risotto and salads, too. It\u2019s tiny, so book ahead<\/a>, though there\u2019s a little seating outside.<\/p>\n Eating up high is a rite of passage in Essaouira, and the best rooftop terraces fill quickly with the in-crowd. Some look out over a sea of medina rooftops, others over the waves, all angling for a table as the sun drops. Salut Maroc is our go-to for a rooftop dinner in the medina, with live music and a two-tiered terrace, and KSOU (in the recommendations below) is another strong medina option. Down on the seafront, La Coupole\u2019s upstairs terrace is the pick for a sunset over the water.<\/p>\n That live music is often Gnaoua, the hypnotic, trance-like sound that defines the city, born from sub-Saharan African, Berber and Sufi roots. Even if you don\u2019t seek it out, you\u2019ll hear it drifting out of restaurants across the medina after dark, and it\u2019s a huge part of what makes eating out here feel like an event.<\/p>\n Follow the seafront away from the medina and the mood shifts. The buildings thin out, the crowds ease, and you reach a run of chic, boho beach restaurants with an ocean view and the odd camel wandering past. This is where to head for a long, lazy lunch with your toes more or less in the sand.<\/p>\n One of our Essaouira favourites<\/a>, about a five-minute drive from the medina. It\u2019s an arty, eco-minded beachfront spot facing Mogador Island, with a sunny ground-floor terrace and an upstairs terrace that\u2019s the one to book for sunset. There\u2019s always a warm welcome, a chic, tropical vibe and a DJ spinning something jazzy as the light drops. The menu is Mediterranean and fusion, balancing land and sea, and last time I had the lamb shank, which came off the bone, and a goat\u2019s cheese salad. Others rave about the octopus, the John Dory and the gourmet burger. It\u2019s one of the pricier spots, but still great value against home; three courses with wine works out far less than it would in the UK. There are good options for kids too, with generous portions, so it\u2019s a safe bet for families.<\/p>\n The original beach hangout<\/a> and still the coolest, Ocean Vagabond has been part of Essaouira\u2019s surf scene since 1995, and it\u2019s as much a way of life as a restaurant. The motto, painted up somewhere, is \u201cno time, no news, no shoes\u201d, and that tells you everything. You sit on a tree-lined terrace or a sun lounger with your feet more or less in the sand, facing the island of Mogador, watching camels and horses saunter past, and kitesurfers skim the bay beyond. It doubles as a surf and watersports centre, so there\u2019s always a bit of life about it.<\/p>\n The food is Mediterranean and market-led, a short menu of fresh fish, seafood and seasonal veg with the odd flourish, from a Bali bowl with salmon and avocado to Saint-Pierre in coconut milk. There\u2019s usually a big board of specials, which I went for, and my moussaka was delicious, served with a generous pile of salad, while my husband\u2019s lamb kebab was tender. The pizza is a real hit, light and crisp-based, and it comes up again and again as some of the best on this stretch of coast. It\u2019s a good 20 to 25 minute walk along the beach from the medina, or a quick petit taxi, and worth the wander. There\u2019s a happy hour and live music some evenings, and it opens for dinner on Friday and Saturday nights year-round.<\/p>\n Right on the sand near Ocean Vagabond, La Panoramique<\/a> is a beautifully done-out beachfront spot, all pared-back Japandi style, natural wood and plenty of shaded corners, with entrances from both the beach and the road behind. It works from morning to night, and people who stay in the area tend to end up here again and again for breakfast, lunch and dinner. It\u2019s one of the best breakfasts on the beach, we had crepes and omelettes looking out over the water, and it\u2019s a low-key start to a beach day.<\/p>\n Come back later, and the menu widens out to burgers, a well-liked fishburger, a sardine-ball tagine, salads and grilled fish, with good coffee, milkshakes and cocktails. The kitchen is happy to adapt dishes, handy if anyone\u2019s gluten-free or fussy, and portions are generous for the price. You could easily settle in for the whole day, then stay on for a sunset dinner.<\/p>\n Down at the far end of the beach, where the surfers surf and the camels hang out, Beach and Friends<\/a> is the most party-ish of the bunch. Sink into one of the big sofas or grab a lounger with your feet in the sand, watch the kitesurfers and horses go by, and settle in. It\u2019s a full-on beach club, with a huge shaded terrace, chilled by day, livelier by night, with DJs, live bands and the odd karaoke evening, and it\u2019s a favourite sundowner spot because the sun sets over the Atlantic right in front of you.<\/p>\n The menu is easygoing and international, with pizzas, burgers, salads, tapas and daily specials, with a decent kids\u2019 selection of ice creams, soft drinks and simple plates, plus beer on tap, wine and cocktails at fair prices. It\u2019s a good 20-minute walk from the medina, or a flat-fee petit taxi for a few dirhams, and it\u2019s exactly where you want to be when you\u2019ve had your fill of the medina and just want to lie back and do nothing. One heads-up, arrive on foot and the camel and horse handlers will try their luck, harmless enough, but they can be persistent.<\/p>\n Also out near the beach, Gusto Italia<\/a> is the pick if you\u2019re craving real Italian. It\u2019s the smartest Italian restaurant in town, a modern room run by an Italian owner, with ingredients brought in from Italy, homemade ravioli, crisp thin-based pizzas, fresh fish and a big wine list. It\u2019s dinner only, and it\u2019s an easy stroll along the beach from the medina, or a short taxi if you ask for Gusto by name.<\/p>\n Just outside the medina, Koozina<\/a> is a little oasis when the heat gets too much. It\u2019s a French-inspired garden patio with a shop attached and small chequered tablecloths, and it\u2019s all about fresh food and freshly squeezed juices. We had avocado sourdough toast with eggs and mint tea, and the specials board ran to octopus and fresh fish. The owner, an elegant lady, chatted to us and made us feel completely at home, and it was great value. A lovely find in pretty surroundings, and a good lunch stop if you want a breather from the medina.<\/p>\n For a treat, drive out towards the airport to Les Jardin des Douars<\/a>, a hotel with a restaurant open to non-guests for lunch and dinner. We came a few times to play padel, then bought day passes to use the pool before a late flight home. Lunch is served under palm trees on a shaded terrace, with a wide range of European-inspired food, I had burrata and beetroot to start, fresh and moreish, then a fish burger with plenty of tartare sauce. Prices are on the higher side, but you\u2019re paying for the setting as much as the food.<\/p>\n You do not need to spend much to eat well in Essaouira. Some of our happiest meals were the cheapest, grabbed on the hoof between wanders through the souks. Even the bread became a ritual: khobz, the round, flat, rustic Moroccan loaf, was a staple at every single meal for us, perfect for dipping into tagines and sauces and great with cheese. We found a bakery near our villa and set out each morning for loaves still warm from the oven. You\u2019ll find it everywhere, but there\u2019s something special about buying it fresh first thing.<\/p>\n You can\u2019t miss the green-fronted crepe stall in the heart of the medina. Imagine any sweet filling and combination you fancy and it\u2019ll be on the menu, the kids went straight for Nutella and Biscoff every time. Crepes are my own weakness, and there are stands all around Place Moulay Hassan too if you can\u2019t make it to Jojoba.<\/p>\n Right by the entrance to the medina, Fishburger is a popular, cheap spot with shaded tables. If you\u2019ve never considered a battered fish burger, try one here, it makes a brilliant change from a meat burger, and they\u2019re really tasty. An easy, quick lunch when you don\u2019t want to sit down for an hour.<\/p>\n One of the best cafes in the medina for a pause, we stopped here for an iced tea, a coffee and a snack, and it turned out to be a brilliant people-watching spot, all locals and tourists mingling past the window. A warm welcome, great coffee and lots of choice on a menu that spans breakfasts, light lunches and cakes. Good to know for a mid-afternoon break rather than a big meal.<\/p>\n It\u2019s also worth doing what we did and shopping the medina market and stalls for breakfast and picnic bits, fresh khobz, fruit, cheese, olives and some fruit juice. With a villa or riad terrace to enjoy it on, it keeps costs right down and gives you a lazy morning between all the eating out.<\/p>\n We didn\u2019t make it to every one of these ourselves, but they come highly recommended, whether by locals, friends or the crowds you see spilling out of them each night. Here\u2019s what to expect at each, grouped by what you\u2019re in the mood for.<\/p>\n Restaurant Berber Essaouira 2006<\/strong> is the one everyone raves about, a tiny, family-run place<\/a> run by Lalla Khadija with just a handful of tables tucked down a quiet medina alley. This is home cooking, tagines, couscous, harira and fish soup, made with decades-old spice blends, and people love it enough to come back most nights of their stay. It\u2019s cash only, doesn\u2019t take bookings and fills fast, so arrive early. There\u2019s spaghetti bolognese on the menu too, handy if the kids need a break from Moroccan food.<\/p>\n Dar Dasha<\/strong> is the more polished take on the same idea, a newer spot with a stylish, plant-filled room and beautifully plated Moroccan dishes<\/a> with a modern twist. Think chicken bastilla and slow-cooked tagines in a calmer, more design-led setting. Come relaxed and take your time, it isn\u2019t a quick in-and-out.<\/p>\n La Casa<\/strong> is a cosy, dimly lit local favourite down a side street, and the one to seek out for a really good-value tagine or couscous. The sardine tagine and chicken pastilla get singled out again and again, and there are vegan options too. It\u2019s small and popular, so go early for a table.<\/a><\/p>\n KSOU<\/strong> is one of the medina\u2019s best rooftop spots, with panoramic views, cosy tented booths and live Gnaoua music, plus the odd fire show, as the evening goes on. The menu<\/a> runs to mezze, grilled squid, cheese cigars and couscous. It\u2019s the sort of place you settle into for the whole evening rather than a quick bite.<\/p>\n Omb\u00fa<\/strong> is a lovely lunch-and-brunch spot built around a 250-year-old Omb\u00fa tree, a rare South American transplant that shades the whole courtyard at the Ensemble Artisanal. The menu is internationally inspired with a Moroccan accent, alongside good coffee and fresh mocktails, and the octopus comes highly recommended. A peaceful escape<\/a> from the medina bustle.<\/p>\n KSOU<\/strong> aside, if it\u2019s a refined dinner you\u2019re after, the The Loft<\/strong> and La Cl\u00e9 de Vo\u00fbte<\/strong> above are your best bets, but Omb\u00fa<\/strong> and Dar Dasha<\/strong> also plate up beautifully if you want somewhere that feels a bit special without the full fine-dining price tag.<\/p>\n Munchies<\/strong><\/a> is the spot for American-style burgers, loaded fries, chicken wings and, crucially, thick, old-school milkshakes, a rarity in Morocco. It\u2019s a small side-street place off Avenue Princesse Lalla Amina, popular with families, and portions are huge. Blaan Food<\/strong> <\/a>is another easy, low-key option for a quick, casual meal when you don\u2019t want to sit down for a long dinner.<\/p>\n L\u2019Atelier<\/strong><\/a>, a relaxed caf\u00e9-boutique, is a nice spot to pause for a coffee and a browse mid-wander. Handy to know when you want a break rather than a full meal.<\/p>\n Between all of these you\u2019ve got pretty much every craving covered, from a candlelit tagine in a four-table hole in the wall to a milkshake the thickness of setting concrete.<\/p>\n![\"spices](\"https:\/\/www.my-travelmonkey.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/08\/spices-in-Essaouira-medina-My-Travel-Monkey.jpg\")
<\/a><\/p>\nQuick answer: the best restaurants in Essaouira<\/h2>\n
Best rooftop in the medina with live music:<\/strong> Salut Maroc, KSOU
Best for a Moroccan twist and cocktails:<\/strong> Dar Baba
Best family lunch in the medina:<\/strong> D\u00e9lices & Saveurs de Mogador
Best for sea views and sunset:<\/strong> La Coupole Essaouira Beach, Ocean Vagabond, Beach and Friends
Best Italian:<\/strong> Gusto Italia, Taverna Bolognese Da Maurizio
Best garden escape outside the walls:<\/strong> Koozina Garden
Best cheap eats:<\/strong> Fishburger, Jojoba Crepes<\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\nWhy Essaouira is such a good place to eat<\/h2>\n
<\/a><\/p>\nEating in the medina<\/h2>\n
<\/a><\/p>\nDar Baba<\/h3>\n
<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\nSalut Maroc<\/h3>\n
<\/a><\/p>\n<\/a><\/p>\nD\u00e9lices & Saveurs de Mogador<\/h3>\n
<\/a><\/p>\nLa Cl\u00e9 de Vo\u00fbte<\/h3>\n
The Loft<\/h3>\n
Restaurant Sayef<\/h3>\n
<\/a><\/p>\nTaverna Bolognese Da Maurizio<\/h3>\n
Rooftop dining and live music<\/h2>\n
<\/a><\/p>\nEating by the beach<\/h2>\n
La Coupole Essaouira Beach<\/h3>\n
<\/a><\/p>\nOcean Vagabond<\/h3>\n
<\/a><\/p>\nLa Panoramique<\/h3>\n
<\/a><\/p>\nBeach and Friends<\/h3>\n
<\/a><\/p>\nGusto Italia<\/h3>\n
Beyond the medina: a garden escape<\/h2>\n
Koozina Garden<\/h3>\n
<\/a><\/p>\nLes Jardin des Douars<\/h3>\n
Street food, caf\u00e9s and cheap eats<\/h2>\n
<\/a><\/p>\nJojoba Crepes<\/h3>\n
Fishburger<\/h3>\n
<\/a><\/p>\nMandala Society<\/h3>\n
<\/a><\/p>\nSelf-catering from the market<\/h3>\n
More restaurants worth knowing about<\/h2>\n
For traditional Moroccan food<\/h3>\n
<\/a><\/p>\nFor a rooftop with a view<\/h3>\n
For a garden setting<\/h3>\n
For fine dining<\/h3>\n
For burgers and casual bites<\/h3>\n
For coffee and a browse<\/h3>\n