One of the things I get asked about a lot are my trips to Afghanistan. Several people have asked recently if it is safe for them to visit. I\u2019ve gotten this question before and thought I\u2019d address it.<\/p>\n
Back in the 70\u2019s, Afghanistan was a hotspot for tourism \u2013 especially the hippy crowd. My dad lived all over the country as a kid and recalls seeing tourists everywhere. People would invite them to their homes, even provide lodging free of charge. Afghans were very curious and excited about \u201cguests\u201d from abroad, and that was reflected in their attitude towards tourists.<\/p>\n
Nowadays, things have changed somewhat. While people are still generally welcoming towards tourists, there is a bit of distrust because of the western military presence and all that entails. You can still visit Afghanistan and have a great experience. You just need to be aware of a few things.<\/p>\n
The security situation differs from city to city, but a few basic safety precautions will apply no matter where you\u2019re staying. If you\u2019re considering traveling to Afghanistan, here are a few things you should consider:<\/p>\n
1. The War in Afghanistan<\/span><\/h2>\nKabul is under constant threat of attack and NATO is scheduled to pull out in 2014. The last time a \u201cpeace maker\u201d pulled out of Afghanistan, a civil war broke out. There\u2019s no telling what will happen in 2014, so don\u2019t book your ticket far in advance. Either visit before the so-called troop pullout or wait it out and see what happens afterwards.<\/p>\n
That being said, Kabul is filled with Afghan security forces on practically every corner. Fully armed officers stand on watchtowers, keeping an eye on suspicious behavior \u2013 even going so far as to stop our car at a checkpoint because \u201csomeone wearing sunglasses was taking photos\u201d of government buildings (guilty). Two suicide bombing attempts were thwarted while I was there, and I felt confident that the Afghan security forces had a handle on security \u2013 about as much as anyone can have a handle on these things.<\/p>\n![\"Afghan](\"https:\/\/pointchaser.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/267597_10150221263378021_642793020_7170783_288745_n.png\")
\n<\/picture>\n<\/a>Afghan soldiers chatting near an unmanned humvee<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nI saw kids walking to school by themselves every day. I have relatives who moved to Kabul from abroad and are perfectly content living there. If things were truly awful all the time, people would be running from the city, not flocking to it. The only places I\u2019d steer clear of are those frequented by westerners: Hotels, restaurants that serve alcohol or cater to westerners exclusively, major shopping malls, and establishments near foreign embassies. These are targets for suicide bombers and you won\u2019t miss out on anything by avoiding them. My advice is to find a local guide. They will help you navigate the city safely.<\/p>\n
Security throughout Afghanistan<\/h3>\n
As for other cities in Afghanistan, Herat (which I hope to visit this year) is relatively safe. The rural areas outside of Kabul are safe, though make sure you adhere to local customs and avoid offending people (we\u2019ll go over that later). Far be it from me to discourage you, but try to steer clear of Kandahar for now. You\u2019ll have plenty to do and see in Northern Afghanistan, so we\u2019ll focus the next few posts on that region.<\/p>\n
2. The Weather in Afghanistan<\/span><\/h2>\nIf you don\u2019t want to take your chances, miss out, then wait another 20+ years for another semi-peaceful period, the next few months are an option. Keep in mind that winter in Kabul is brutal. It snows December through March, the roads get icy and muddy (making it practically impossible to go out to the rural areas), and hospitals are filled with patients suffering broken body parts. But don\u2019t worry, the doctor with a cigarette dangling from his lip will gladly push your shoulder back into place and put a cast on your throbbing arm.\u00a0<\/i><\/p>\n
Other than that, spring and fall are decent and the summer heat is bearable. You will get nosebleeds from the dust in the air, but the weather won\u2019t conflict too much with the local dress code.<\/p>\n
3. Personal Safety in Afghanistan<\/span><\/h2>\nFirst, I want to start by saying I felt safe during both trips. I\u2019ll go as far as to say I felt safer walking the streets of Kabul than downtown Los Angeles. Sure, bad things happened (see trip reports<\/a>), but I still went back for a second visit and am planning a third one. The air is very relaxed in that part of the world, despite the constant turmoil. People are carefree and that attitude is infectious. That being said, I was visiting my homeland and understood the culture and language. The key to feeling safe (and being safe) is knowing how to handle yourself in a foreign country and understanding the culture.<\/p>\nA Facebook friend recently posted the following quote on his page, which I think is great advice no matter where you\u2019re going: \u201cWhenever you find yourself in foreign territory, walk with a purpose. Nothing and no one will bother you\u2026\u201d Very true.<\/p>\n
How safe is Kabul for tourists?<\/h3>\n
I met NPO workers who\u2019d spent a year in the city and made it out in one piece. I ran into what looked like a tourist group near Chicken Street (Koche Murgho)<\/i>. Overall, tourism is picking up.<\/p>\n![\"Kabul](\"https:\/\/pointchaser.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/Tourists-in-Kabul-1-1024x768.jpg\"\/)
![\"Kabul](\"https:\/\/pointchaser.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/01\/Tourists-in-Kabul-1-1024x768.jpg\")
\n<\/picture>\n<\/a><\/figure>\nWomen shouldn\u2019t venture out without a male companion \u2013 though I saw a group of American women shopping alone at the Bagh-e-sano women-run shopping center.<\/p>\n
Occasionally,\u00a0I went to the grocery store alone. I never experienced harassment and the shopkeepers were generally more courteous to me than anyone else \u2013 mainly because they knew I was a \u201cguest\u201d and they treat guests with a certain level of respect. That being said, safety varies by neighborhood.<\/p>\n
Safest neighborhoods in Kabul<\/h3>\n
The Shahrak-e-Tilahi (Golden City) area is very safe. As is Makroyan, a middle-class neighborhood constructed by the Soviets. The Mandawi market can be overwhelming and my uncle claims a lot of \u201clow lives\u201d hang out there. I was apprehensive as a result, but again, experienced no harassment of any kind. A neighborhood we didn\u2019t visit for safety issues was Jeda \u2013 again, my uncle claimed this area was full of shady characters\u00a0and not appropriate for young women.<\/p>\n![\"Makroyan](\"https:\/\/pointchaser.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/270303_10150221265938021_642793020_7170823_449292_n.png\"\/)
![\"Makroyan](\"https:\/\/pointchaser.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/270303_10150221265938021_642793020_7170823_449292_n.png\")
\n<\/picture>\n<\/a>Makroyan Market<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nShor-e-Nau (uptown) is where I saw the most foreigners. Lesse Maryam has a huge shopping district that I would steer clear of. They\u2019ve constructed a lot of shopping malls and that can get dangerous. There are also a lot of beggars and gypsies wandering the area, and as a foreigner, you will get hounded.<\/p>\n
![\"Afghan](\"https:\/\/pointchaser.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/267597_10150221263378021_642793020_7170783_288745_n.png.webp)
\n<\/picture>\n<\/a>I saw kids walking to school by themselves every day. I have relatives who moved to Kabul from abroad and are perfectly content living there. If things were truly awful all the time, people would be running from the city, not flocking to it. The only places I\u2019d steer clear of are those frequented by westerners: Hotels, restaurants that serve alcohol or cater to westerners exclusively, major shopping malls, and establishments near foreign embassies. These are targets for suicide bombers and you won\u2019t miss out on anything by avoiding them. My advice is to find a local guide. They will help you navigate the city safely.<\/p>\n
Security throughout Afghanistan<\/h3>\n
As for other cities in Afghanistan, Herat (which I hope to visit this year) is relatively safe. The rural areas outside of Kabul are safe, though make sure you adhere to local customs and avoid offending people (we\u2019ll go over that later). Far be it from me to discourage you, but try to steer clear of Kandahar for now. You\u2019ll have plenty to do and see in Northern Afghanistan, so we\u2019ll focus the next few posts on that region.<\/p>\n
2. The Weather in Afghanistan<\/span><\/h2>\nIf you don\u2019t want to take your chances, miss out, then wait another 20+ years for another semi-peaceful period, the next few months are an option. Keep in mind that winter in Kabul is brutal. It snows December through March, the roads get icy and muddy (making it practically impossible to go out to the rural areas), and hospitals are filled with patients suffering broken body parts. But don\u2019t worry, the doctor with a cigarette dangling from his lip will gladly push your shoulder back into place and put a cast on your throbbing arm.\u00a0<\/i><\/p>\n
Other than that, spring and fall are decent and the summer heat is bearable. You will get nosebleeds from the dust in the air, but the weather won\u2019t conflict too much with the local dress code.<\/p>\n
3. Personal Safety in Afghanistan<\/span><\/h2>\nFirst, I want to start by saying I felt safe during both trips. I\u2019ll go as far as to say I felt safer walking the streets of Kabul than downtown Los Angeles. Sure, bad things happened (see trip reports<\/a>), but I still went back for a second visit and am planning a third one. The air is very relaxed in that part of the world, despite the constant turmoil. People are carefree and that attitude is infectious. That being said, I was visiting my homeland and understood the culture and language. The key to feeling safe (and being safe) is knowing how to handle yourself in a foreign country and understanding the culture.<\/p>\nA Facebook friend recently posted the following quote on his page, which I think is great advice no matter where you\u2019re going: \u201cWhenever you find yourself in foreign territory, walk with a purpose. Nothing and no one will bother you\u2026\u201d Very true.<\/p>\n
How safe is Kabul for tourists?<\/h3>\n
I met NPO workers who\u2019d spent a year in the city and made it out in one piece. I ran into what looked like a tourist group near Chicken Street (Koche Murgho)<\/i>. Overall, tourism is picking up.<\/p>\nWomen shouldn\u2019t venture out without a male companion \u2013 though I saw a group of American women shopping alone at the Bagh-e-sano women-run shopping center.<\/p>\n
Occasionally,\u00a0I went to the grocery store alone. I never experienced harassment and the shopkeepers were generally more courteous to me than anyone else \u2013 mainly because they knew I was a \u201cguest\u201d and they treat guests with a certain level of respect. That being said, safety varies by neighborhood.<\/p>\n
Safest neighborhoods in Kabul<\/h3>\n
The Shahrak-e-Tilahi (Golden City) area is very safe. As is Makroyan, a middle-class neighborhood constructed by the Soviets. The Mandawi market can be overwhelming and my uncle claims a lot of \u201clow lives\u201d hang out there. I was apprehensive as a result, but again, experienced no harassment of any kind. A neighborhood we didn\u2019t visit for safety issues was Jeda \u2013 again, my uncle claimed this area was full of shady characters\u00a0and not appropriate for young women.<\/p>\nMakroyan Market<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nShor-e-Nau (uptown) is where I saw the most foreigners. Lesse Maryam has a huge shopping district that I would steer clear of. They\u2019ve constructed a lot of shopping malls and that can get dangerous. There are also a lot of beggars and gypsies wandering the area, and as a foreigner, you will get hounded.<\/p>\n
First, I want to start by saying I felt safe during both trips. I\u2019ll go as far as to say I felt safer walking the streets of Kabul than downtown Los Angeles. Sure, bad things happened (see trip reports<\/a>), but I still went back for a second visit and am planning a third one. The air is very relaxed in that part of the world, despite the constant turmoil. People are carefree and that attitude is infectious. That being said, I was visiting my homeland and understood the culture and language. The key to feeling safe (and being safe) is knowing how to handle yourself in a foreign country and understanding the culture.<\/p>\n A Facebook friend recently posted the following quote on his page, which I think is great advice no matter where you\u2019re going: \u201cWhenever you find yourself in foreign territory, walk with a purpose. Nothing and no one will bother you\u2026\u201d Very true.<\/p>\n I met NPO workers who\u2019d spent a year in the city and made it out in one piece. I ran into what looked like a tourist group near Chicken Street (Koche Murgho)<\/i>. Overall, tourism is picking up.<\/p>\n Women shouldn\u2019t venture out without a male companion \u2013 though I saw a group of American women shopping alone at the Bagh-e-sano women-run shopping center.<\/p>\n Occasionally,\u00a0I went to the grocery store alone. I never experienced harassment and the shopkeepers were generally more courteous to me than anyone else \u2013 mainly because they knew I was a \u201cguest\u201d and they treat guests with a certain level of respect. That being said, safety varies by neighborhood.<\/p>\n The Shahrak-e-Tilahi (Golden City) area is very safe. As is Makroyan, a middle-class neighborhood constructed by the Soviets. The Mandawi market can be overwhelming and my uncle claims a lot of \u201clow lives\u201d hang out there. I was apprehensive as a result, but again, experienced no harassment of any kind. A neighborhood we didn\u2019t visit for safety issues was Jeda \u2013 again, my uncle claimed this area was full of shady characters\u00a0and not appropriate for young women.<\/p>\n Shor-e-Nau (uptown) is where I saw the most foreigners. Lesse Maryam has a huge shopping district that I would steer clear of. They\u2019ve constructed a lot of shopping malls and that can get dangerous. There are also a lot of beggars and gypsies wandering the area, and as a foreigner, you will get hounded.<\/p>\nHow safe is Kabul for tourists?<\/h3>\n
\n<\/picture>\n<\/a><\/figure>\nSafest neighborhoods in Kabul<\/h3>\n
\n<\/picture>\n<\/a>
![\"Sheep](\"https:\/\/pointchaser.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/264443_10150221265988021_642793020_7170824_1166085_n.png\"\/)
![\"Sheep](\"https:\/\/pointchaser.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/10\/264443_10150221265988021_642793020_7170824_1166085_n.png\")
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