Intrepid winemakers are the real protagonists of the Etna wine scene. In the second part of my Etna series, I pick four vintners whom I know and value: Benanti, I Vigneri, Frank Cornelissen and Tenuta di Fessina. Four pioneers of a land full of wonders. Here are their philosophies and marvellous wines<\/h3>\n
Welcome to the second and concluding part of my series dedicated to the Etna wine region. In the first article<\/a>, I focused on Etna\u2019s legends, history, grape varieties, DOC appellations and terroir. Now it\u2019s time to delve into some of the most interesting<\/strong> winemakers<\/strong> based around the Etna Mountain. I will offer you a glimpse of what this wine region has to offer.<\/p>\n I visited the Etna district in 2017. There I witnessed the puffing and smoking of Europe\u2019s biggest active volcano. And, of course, tasted some excellent wines<\/strong>. I was immediately fascinated by the wines of this district. Perhaps even more intriguing was learning about the resourceful <\/strong>and heroic winemakers<\/strong> stubborn enough to cultivate this dramatic land.\u00a0<\/p>\n In this article, I share my top four favourite Etna winemakers<\/strong>. My line-up is by no means comprehensive or definitive. As always happens in Wine and Other Stories<\/em>, my choice represents a personal preference of taste and reflects the producers with whom I am most familiar. Also, please note that I have not received any compensation or perk of any kind for my words. Without further ado, my favourite Etna winemakers and their creations are below!<\/p>\n In Sicily, the Benanti<\/a><\/strong> family traces its history back to 1734. However, it is since the beginning of the 20th century that the Benanti family has been making wines on the slopes of the volcano.<\/p>\n In the late 1980s, Giuseppe Benanti<\/strong> began commercial viticulture around Etna Mountain (alas, he died <\/a>just a few weeks prior to writing this post). One of the pioneers of Mount Etna, Giuseppe Benanti was a pharmaceutical entrepreneur who decided to turn his family\u2019s enduring passion for wine into an ambitious new venture.<\/p>\n Giuseppe Benanti was one of the first professionals to put Etna on the wine world map<\/strong>. According to the local rumours, he was outraged by drinking a glass of poor local rosso<\/em>. He decided that the area could produce better wine. In 1988, Giuseppe Benanti founded the Tenuta di Castiglione<\/em> winery. He renamed the winery a decade later to Benanti<\/em> after his family name.<\/p>\n I visited Benanti\u2019s estate in Viagrande in 2017. The tasting room was opulent, decorated in a classical style and filled with paintings collected by Giuseppe Benanti. Somehow Benanti\u2019s wines also reflect this ideal of romantic refinement<\/strong>.<\/p>\n Like all the best Etnean winemakers, Benanti is very attentive to the territory<\/strong>, favouring a precise expression of each terroir<\/a> in their bottles. Benanti\u2019s vineyards are situated on three Etna slopes.\u00a0<\/p>\n On the northern slope<\/strong>, around the town of Rovitello, Benanti produces two red wines: Contrada Dafara Galluzzo Etna Rosso<\/em> and Rovitello Etna Rosso Riserva<\/em>. In both cases, the grapes are sourced from Contrada Dafara Galluzzo. These wines have finesse and depth, with an energising minerality<\/a> and floral undertones.\u00a0<\/p>\n The eastern slope<\/strong>, around the town of Milo, is traditionally a land for white wines. Here Benanti produces their most famous wine<\/strong>: Pietramarina Etna Bianco Superiore<\/em>. Alsatian<\/a> in nature, with notable ageing capability, Pietramarina is considered by many critics to be one of Italy\u2019s top white wines.<\/p>\n
Country:<\/em> Italy<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n Region\/appellation:<\/em> Sicily – Etna Bianco Superiore DOC<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n Wine style:<\/em> Dry white – Tropical and balanced<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n Grape(s):<\/em> Carricante<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n Average price:<\/em> \u00a3100<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n For Pietramarina, the grapes are sourced from Contrada Rinazzo, on the eastern slope of the volcano, near Milo. This wine is made entirely from Carricante. To produce this white, the grapes are hand-harvested and softly pressed. The must is then fermented for 12 days in stainless steel vats. Before being released, the wine matures for three years: two in steel vats and then one in the bottle.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n
<\/p>\n Tasting notes<\/em><\/p>\n
<\/p>\n (tasted on:<\/em> 21-Nov-2018)<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n In the glass, the wine has a rich lemon hue. On the nose, it has a pronounced intensity and a focused precision. Aromas of grapefruit and yellow peach mingle with acacia leaves, hay and cardamon. Suggestions of banana and sweet petrol are reminiscent of a great Alsatian riesling. On the palate, Pietramarina is full in body and exudes profound flavours. This wine has great tension, moving between its crystalline acidity and creamy texture. The flavour profile is complex, featuring perfectly ripe citrus and yellow peach aromas as well as suggestions of candied lemon, orange blossoms, summer herbs and cardamon. Tertiary flavours are starting to develop such as sweet petrol, hay and marzipan. A poised and focused wine, nuanced and multi-layered. Long and grand finish.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n
<\/p>\n Wine and other Stories rating:<\/em> 9.3\/10<\/p>\n
On the southeast slope<\/strong>, near the town of Viagrande, lies Contrada Monte Serra, the source material for two reds: Contrada Monte Serra Etna Rosso<\/em> and Serra Della Contessa Etna Rosso Riserva<\/em>. In this area, the altitude is slightly lower and the nearby sea mitigates diurnal excursion. As a result, the wines produced on this slope are smooth and versatile while still preserving an enveloping elegance.<\/p>\n Lastly, on the south-west slope<\/strong> from Contrada Cavaliere, near the town of Santa Maria di Licodia, Benanti produces three wines: Contrada Cavaliere Etna Bianco<\/em>, Contrada Cavaliere Etna Rosso<\/em> and Nerello Cappuccio Terre Siciliane<\/em>.\u00a0<\/p>\n Nerello Cappuccio Terre Siciliane is labelled as Terre Siciliane IGT, since the Etna Rosso DOC doesn\u2019t allow wines made from 100% Nerello Cappuccio. There are not many monovarietal Nerello Cappuccio<\/strong> wines out there. This wine is a rustic and pleasant red, with plush red fruit aromas and distinctive Mediterranean shrubs undertones. It\u2019s not complex but round and smooth, with graceful tannins<\/a> and a pleasant mouthfeel.<\/p>\n Benanti\u2019s production also includes an Etna Spumante Rosato DOC<\/em> (called Lamor\u00e8mio<\/em> and produced with the Champagne method) and their entry-level wines: Etna Bianco<\/em>, Etna Rosso<\/em> and Etna Rosato<\/em>. These wines offer a lovely introduction<\/strong> to the wine region.<\/p>\n
Country:<\/em> Italy<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n Region\/appellation:<\/em> Sicily – Etna Bianco DOC<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n Wine style:<\/em> Dry white – Tropical and balanced<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n Grape(s):<\/em> Carricante<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n Average price:<\/em> \u00a322<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n Benanti\u2019s entry-level Etna Bianco is made entirely by Carricante. The grapes come from the estate\u2019s vineyards across the eastern and southern slopes. Both fermentation and short maturation take place in stainless steel vats. The wine is then stored in the bottle for 2-3 months before release.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n
<\/p>\n Tasting notes<\/em><\/p>\n
<\/p>\n (tasted on:<\/em> 27-Apr-2017)<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n In the glass, this Etna Bianco has a pale straw-lemon hue. The nose emanates delicate notes of yellow apple, citrus fruit and lemon blossoms. On the palate, it\u2019s medium in body with a medium+ intensity of flavours. Lively acidity with a pleasant mineral (almost salty) vein. Balanced, easy to drink and perfect for fish-based dishes.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n
<\/p>\n Wine and other Stories rating:<\/em> 8.6\/10<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n Not many people around the volcano are imbued with local history and knowledge like Salvo Foti<\/strong>. In fact, one could easily say that Salvo Foti is the epitome of the Uomo Etneo<\/strong><\/em> (\u201cEtnean Man\u201d). Born and raised in Catania, just a few kilometres from the Etna peak, Salvo Foti started his career in wine when he was 19. He worked in many historical Sicilian wineries including Benanti (see above) and has helped shape the character of Etna wines as we know it today.<\/p>\n In 2000, Salvo Foti created his own project: I Vigneri<\/a><\/strong>. The company is named after an association founded in Catania in 1435 called Maestranze dei Vigneri <\/em>(meaning \u201cthe winemakers\u2019 guild\u201d). I Vigneri shares the same purpose as its ancient predecessor: to improve the vintners\u2019 profession<\/strong> by training the next generation of viticulturists and by sharing know-how<\/strong> and traditional enological techniques<\/strong>.\u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n Salvo Foti has great respect towards nature<\/strong> and traditions<\/strong>. He strongly protects the palmento<\/a><\/em>, the traditional Sicilian building where grapes are turned into must and wine. However, above all, Salvo Foti respects the men and women working on the land<\/strong>. For this reason, Salvo Foti calls his creations vini umani<\/em> (\u201chuman wines\u201d). His ethos is to focus on tending to the people who grow the vines.\u00a0<\/p>\n \u201cI stopped growing the land and I began to grow people\u201d (Salvo Foti)<\/cite><\/p><\/blockquote>\n I admit I have a soft spot for I Vigneri. I had the pleasure of meeting Salvo Foti and his son Simone in 2017 in Milo, on the eastern slope of the volcano. Afterwards, I met them a few times in London and Verona. Salvo and Simone have always struck me as a fascinating mix of charisma and humility<\/strong>. On each occasion, they were friendly, approachable and genuine. Their deep love and respect towards Etna and its people are undeniable. No wonder their wines are so delicious.\u00a0<\/p>\n I Vigneri produce three white wines: Aurora<\/em>, Palmento Caselle<\/em> and Vignadimilo<\/em>.<\/p>\n Aurora<\/em> is an Etna Bianco DOC (90% Carricante and 10% Minella) sourced by the Vigna dell\u2019Aurora vineyard near Milo (750m in altitude). A pleasant and refined white, Aurora<\/em> is light in body with a lovely combination of citrus fruit aromas and white flower suggestions.<\/p>\n Palmento Caselle<\/em> is labelled as an Etna Bianco Superiore DOC and it\u2019s a monovarietal Carricante. Exuding tropical fruit and citrus aroma with a mineral nerve, it\u2019s fresh but also creamy, thanks to 12 months of maturation<\/a> spent in French oak.<\/p>\n Vignadimilo<\/em> is I Vigneri\u2019s other Etna Bianco Superiore DOC and it\u2019s also made entirely from the Carricante grape. It\u2019s a complex and beautiful wine, one of my absolute favourites<\/strong> from the Etna region. See below for my tasting notes.<\/p>\n
Country:<\/em> Italy<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n Region\/appellation:<\/em> Sicily – Etna Bianco Superiore DOC<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n Wine style:<\/em> Dry white – Tropical and balanced<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n Grape(s):<\/em> Carricante<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n Average price:<\/em> \u00a337<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n Vignadimilo is made entirely of Carricante. It\u2019s the result of a special selection of grapes from the name-sake vineyard \u201cVigna di Milo\u201d. The vines are ungrafted, every process is by hand and no chemical is added. This wine is fermented and aged (for 12 months) in big wooden casks. Usually, bottling takes place two years after the harvest.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n
<\/p>\n Tasting notes<\/em><\/p>\n
<\/p>\n (tasted on:<\/em> 05-Mar-2019)<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n In the glass, Vignadimilo has a lemon tint with moderate intensity of colour. On the nose, it seems like nothing else you have ever inhaled. Its flavours are intensely pronounced. The aromatic profile is complex, yet everything about this wine is natural and harmonious. Baked pears, yellow peach, apricot and mango skin notes chase each other in the attack. Earthy suggestions then emerge \u2013 green musk, pungent wild herbs and something grapey. Hints of almond, lime blossoms and mimosa flowers as well.<\/p>\n The palate is just as beautiful as the nose as it confirms all the fruity and earthy nuances perceived there. A graceful and pure minerality traverses all the multi-layered aromas of this wine. Both concentrated and precise in flavours, Vignadimilo seems like an expression of the most beautiful grapes you could ever imagine. The purity and balance here are otherworldly. A really complete wine, elegant, complex, utterly satisfying sip after sip. You can never get tired of it. Long finish, combining peachy and musky undertones.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n
<\/p>\n Wine and other Stories rating:<\/em> 9.4\/10<\/p>\n
It is now time to turn to the reds. I Vigneri produce two Etna Rosso DOC labels: I Vigneri<\/em> and Vinupetra<\/em>.<\/p>\n I Vigneri<\/em> is a clean and beautiful fruit-driven red. Made from young vines (20 years is their average age) with no maturation in oak, I Vigneri<\/em> is crisp, lean and satisfyingly plummy.<\/p>\n Vinupetra<\/em> is made from older vines. It\u2019s more complex and matured in wooden casks. When young, this red has a great precision of fruit and minerality<\/a>, with a touch of sandalwood whiff. Vinupetra<\/em> ages beautifully<\/strong> and it gains more complexity and spiciness year after year. See below my tasting notes showing what a mature Vinupetra can offer.<\/p>\n
Country:<\/em> Italy<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n Region\/appellation:<\/em> Sicily – Etna Rosso DOC<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n Wine style:<\/em> Dry red – Savory and elegant<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n Grape(s):<\/em> 80% Nerello Mascalese, 10% Nerello Cappuccio, Granache, Francisi<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n Average price:<\/em> \u00a335<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n In the Sicilian dialect, \u201cVinupetra\u201d means \u201cwine produced in a land full of stones\u201d. For this wine, the grapes are sourced from the Porcaria Contrada near Castiglione di Sicilia, on Etna\u2019s northern slope. Most of the vineyard features ultra-centenary vines, grown in the traditional Etnean way. After fermentation, the wine is matured in oak vessels for 12 months. Bottling takes place two years after the harvest.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n
<\/p>\n Tasting notes<\/em><\/p>\n
<\/p>\n (tasted on:<\/em> 09-Apr-2019)<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n In the glass, the wine has an attractive garnet hue, medium in intensity. On the nose, the flavours are pronounced and fragrant. Fresh and dried red fruit notes alternate \u2013 red cherry, redcurrant, red plums and dried red berries. There are also lovely nuances of potpourri, rose petals, terra rossa, sandalwood and brick minerality. <\/p>\n On the palate, the wine is classy and nuanced. Fresh and dried red fruit notes mark the attack. In the mid-palate, flowery undertones emerge, along with a stony minerality and a balanced medley of toast and almond aromas. Linear high acidity with fine-grained elegant tannins. Medium to full in body, but never heavy. This wine has a majestic tension and great finesse. Lovely progression and a long refined finish. Outstanding red, balancing perfectly fruitiness and tertiary flavours.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n
<\/p>\n Wine and other Stories rating:<\/em> 9.4\/10<\/p>\n
I Vigneri also produces two ros\u00e9 wines: Vinudilice<\/em> (still) and Vinudilice Spumante Brut Ros\u00e9<\/em> (sparkling). They are labelled simply as \u201cVino Rosato\u201d since they are made from grapes not allowed by the Etna Rosato DOC. Nonetheless, they are both beautiful <\/strong>and complex ros\u00e9s<\/strong>. Below are my tasting notes for the still ros\u00e9 \u2013 Vinudilice Rosato<\/em>.<\/p>\n
Country:<\/em> Italy<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n Region\/appellation:<\/em> Sicily <\/p>\n
<\/p>\n Wine style:<\/em> Dry ros\u00e9 – Rich and Fruity<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n Grape(s):<\/em> Grenache, Minnella Nera, Grecanico, Minnella Bianca and others<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n Average price:<\/em> \u00a332<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n Vinudilice Rosato is made from the centenary vines of Vigna Bosco, the highest vineyard in the Etna region (and probably of all Italy), lying at 1200 meters above sea level.
<\/p>\n Tasting notes<\/em><\/p>\n
<\/p>\n (tasted on:<\/em> 09-Apr-2019)<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n In the glass, this wine has a pale light pink hue. On the nose, it has a medium+ intensity of flavours. Vinudilice Rosato is delicate and nuanced, mixing red fruit aromas such as strawberry, redcurrant and rhubarb with pink grapefruit and white flower nuances. A touch of bread dough adds complexity.<\/p>\n On the palate, it\u2019s light to medium in body. The wine possesses a bright high acidity and a crunchy and lively character. Ethereal and classy, Vinudilice starts with red fruit notes mixed with primrose and red geranium. Sage, nettle and bread pastry suggestions in the mid-palate, progress into a classy dry finish. A serious ros\u00e9.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n
<\/p>\n Wine and other Stories rating:<\/em> 8.9\/10<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n Belgian Frank Cornelissen<\/a><\/strong> is undeniably one of the pioneers<\/strong> of Mount Etna. When he first visited the volcano in 1999, he was enraptured by the beauty and the potential of Etna. Firmly believing that the district could become the new Italian C\u00f4tes-de-Nuits (the Burgundian<\/a> sub-region famous for its excellent reds), Frank Cornelissen quickly\u00a0moved into the area to set up his visionary oenological business. The estate\u2019s first vintage dates back to 2001 and Frank Cornelissen was soon recognised as one of the top producers in the Etna area<\/strong>. Today, Frank Cornelissen owns 24 hectares of land in the northern valley of Etna.<\/p>\n Frank Cornelissen\u2019s approach to winemaking can be described as holistic<\/strong> and purist<\/strong>. On his website, he writes:<\/p>\n \u201cOur farming philosophy is based on our acceptance of the fact that man will never be able to understand nature\u2019s full complexity and interactions [\u2026] Accepting and following nature is our guideline as the divine ability to understand the \u2018Whole\u2019 was obviously not given to man as we are only a part of this complex and not God himself.\u201d (Frank Cornelissen)<\/cite><\/p><\/blockquote>\n Frank Cornelissen eschews any artificial treatment on the land<\/strong> (he also refuses the interventions usually accepted by organic\/biodynamic farming). Minimal filtering, no added sulphur or yeast, no fining, additives or oak (all his wines are matured<\/a> in epoxy vessels, which are neutral and don\u2019t impart any secondary flavour<\/a>). Frank Cornelissen\u2019s purism can also be seen in his choice of cellar equipment. His winery is akin to a surgical operation room: everything is sparkling clean<\/strong>. This is because Frank Cornelissen doesn\u2019t want anything to interfere with the purity of the excellent grapes he brings from the vineyards.<\/p>\n Frank Cornelissen is a great believer in terroir<\/a><\/strong> and biodiversity<\/strong>. For most of his wines, the grapes are sourced from a single contrada<\/em> (I explained what a contrada<\/em> is in the previous article of this series<\/a>). All the Etnea traditions are followed religiously. These include the alberello<\/em> training system, the use of ungrafted vines, the adoption of terraced vineyards and the introduction of local fruit and vegetables to rebalance and enrich the soil. The overarching aim is to offer an unadulterated expression of the specific Etnean territoriality that you can feel and taste in the glass.\u00a0<\/p>\n Frank Cornelissen labels all his wines with the Benanti \u2013 History<\/h4>\n
Benanti: the wines<\/h4>\n
Benanti – Pietramarina Etna Bianco Superiore, 2013<\/b><\/h5>\n
\n![\"Benanti_Pietramarina](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/wineandotherstories.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Benanti_Pietramarina_Label.jpeg?w=705&ssl=1\")
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\n<\/span>\n<\/div>\nBenanti – Etna Bianco, 2015<\/b><\/h5>\n
\n![\"Benanti_Etna](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/wineandotherstories.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/Benanti_Etna_Bianco_Label.jpg?w=705&ssl=1\")
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<\/p>\n
\n<\/span>\n<\/div>\nI Vigneri di Salvo Foti \u2013 history<\/h4>\n
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I Vigneri di Salvo Foti \u2013 the wines<\/h4>\n
I Vigneri di Salvo Foti – Vignadimilo Etna Bianco Superiore, 2016<\/b><\/h5>\n
\n![\"I](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/wineandotherstories.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/I_Vigneri_Vignadimilo_Label.jpeg?w=705&ssl=1\")
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<\/p>\n
\n<\/span>\n<\/div>\nI Vigneri di Salvo Foti – Vinupetra Etna Rosso, 2006<\/b><\/h5>\n
\n![\"I](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/wineandotherstories.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/I_Vigneri_Vinupetra.jpg?w=705&ssl=1\")
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<\/p>\n
\n<\/span>\n<\/div>\nI Vigneri di Salvo Foti – Vinudilice Rosato, 2017<\/b><\/h5>\n
\n![\"I](\"https:\/\/i0.wp.com\/wineandotherstories.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/02\/I_Vigneri_Vinudilice_Label-1.jpg?w=705&ssl=1\")
<\/span>
<\/p>\n
This ros\u00e9 is a field blend. The different grapes (coming from 10 varieties, both white and black-skinned) are harvested and vinified altogether. After fermentation, the wine matures for 5 months in stainless steel vats.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n
\n<\/span>\n<\/div>\nFrank Cornelissen \u2013 history<\/h4>\n
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Frank Cornelissen \u2013 the wines<\/h4>\n