{"id":59991,"date":"2025-01-31T13:00:55","date_gmt":"2025-01-31T13:00:55","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/peraltafinancing.com\/alcohol\/whats-in-a-name-how-the-agave-spirits-label-seeks-to-redefine-craft\/"},"modified":"2025-01-31T13:00:55","modified_gmt":"2025-01-31T13:00:55","slug":"whats-in-a-name-how-the-agave-spirits-label-seeks-to-redefine-craft","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/fivemor.com\/?p=59991","title":{"rendered":"What\u2019s In a Name? How the \u2018Agave Spirits\u2019 Label Seeks to Redefine “Craft”"},"content":{"rendered":"


\n<\/p>\n

\n

While the tequila category has seen explosive growth for the last couple of years, slowly but steadily a new trend is starting to form: the rise of the \u201cagave spirit.\u201d<\/p>\n

This has long been a blanket term for distillates made by cooking, crushing, fermenting, and distilling agaves, which includes both tequila and mezcal. But it is also a term that is starting to show up more frequently on bottles in the U.S. and Mexico, not only as descriptors of regional spirits (including raicilla and bacanora), but as a category all its own.<\/p>\n

\u201cThe initial growth of mezcal brought more interest in other agave spirits from Mexico,\u201d says Andres Moran<\/strong>, a Guadalajara-based bartender, brand rep, and spirits educator.<\/p>\n

\u201cBut the more recent boom in tequila is what is driving the \u2018agave spirits\u2019 category, because anything with that label is seen as more craft than tequila and mezcal appear to be now,\u201d he adds.<\/p>\n

Indeed, Zack Romaya<\/strong>, owner of Old Town Tequila in San Diego, CA, has watched this trend up close. \u201cWe are seeing anything labeled as an agave spirit flying off the shelves,\u201d he says. <\/p>\n

This interest is perhaps due to the fact that tequila\u2019s popularity has led to more industrial production practices, and sweeter, softer taste profiles designed to attract mass-market customers. This is underscored by the booming sales of products like Casamigos<\/a> and Cincoro<\/a>.<\/p>\n

\u201cSo the question becomes, if the official category becomes dominated by products that bear no resemblance to traditional tequila, if \u2018tequila\u2019 ceases or has ceased to be a signifier of quality or tradition, what replaces it?,\u201d muses Clayton Szczech<\/strong>, tequila specialist and owner of Experience Agave<\/a>. <\/p>\n

\u201cFor the moment, the answer seems to be \u2018agave spirits\u2019,\u201d he adds.<\/p>\n\n

Mass Marketing Leads To a (Small) Revolt<\/h2>\n

The mass marketization of tequila has already breached the mezcal category, which has long been seen by some as the more artisanal agave distillate due to its traditionally small, handcrafted production techniques. But in recent years big players in the spirits industry, including Diageo and Pernod Ricard, have added mezcal brands to their portfolios, lured by the category\u2019s budding success, craft image, and high prices. <\/p>\n

This has made smaller mezcal producers wary of where the market is heading. In fact, some point the finger at mezcal regulators at the Consejo Regulador del Mezcal (CRM), saying they are ignoring the needs of the smaller producers as they paved a profit path for the large, international conglomerates.<\/p>\n

\u201cThe rules don\u2019t consider the small producers or take their opinions into account,\u201d says Graciela \u00c1ngeles Carre\u00f1o<\/strong>, General Manager of Real Minero<\/a><\/strong>, a well-respected brand made in Santa Catarina Minas, Oaxaca. Her great grandfather began the mezcal-making tradition, and in 1978 the family bought their first palenque<\/em>, before regulations were put in place.<\/p>\n

\u201c(When it comes to regulation) the only ones that have the right to an opinion are the big producers because they produce more revenue,\u201d she adds.<\/p>\n

Earlier this year, Real Minero decided to decertify, with recent bottles no longer labeled as mezcal; they now say \u201caguardiente\u201d or \u201cdestilado de agave\u201d (agave spirit) instead. (Aguardiente is a Spanish term for hard liquor.)<\/p>\n

\"Graciela
Graciela \u00c1ngeles Carre\u00f1o and horticulturist Isaac Arianes in the greenhouse at the Real Minero palenque in Santa Catarina Minas, Oaxaca.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\u201dFor me the word mezcal has lost its meaning because it does not respect the culture or the ecology of our traditions,\u201d adds \u00c1ngeles Carre\u00f1o.<\/p>\n

But even before Real Minero decided on a label change, some producers were already moving away from certifying, according to Max Garrone<\/strong>, spirits writer and co-founder of Mezcalistas<\/a>.<\/p>\n

Brands such as Cinco Sentidos<\/a><\/strong> and NETA<\/a> embraced the \u201cagave spirits\u201d label because they didn\u2019t think certification was fair, and because they believed that the producers they worked with were already making a truly traditional spirit, he adds.<\/p>\n

\u201cInstead of fighting over the word mezcal, they embraced this other path,\u201d says Garrone.<\/p>\n

This rejection of official labels is particularly stinging given that both mezcal and tequila have a denomination of origin, which in theory is designed to protect and preserve local traditions and products, as well as give back to the communities where they are made.<\/p>\n

While Real Minero is taking a strong stand in the mezcal world, the tequila world has its own regulatory rebel: Caballito Cerrero<\/a>. This now cult brand is produced by the Jim\u00e9nez family, who also started making tequila long before regulators stepped in.<\/p>\n

In fact, the Jim\u00e9nez family is related to the founder of Herradura tequila, stretching their tequila-making bonafides back to the late 1800s, at least.<\/p>\n

\u201cBecoming an agave spirit has been the best decision for us because we don\u2019t have to deal with the CRT (Consejo Regulador del Tequila) and their special rules for small companies,\u201d says Javier Jim\u00e9nez Teran<\/strong>, manager of Caballito Cerrero\u2019s parent company, TCC de Amatitan S.A de CV. They stopped using the word \u201ctequila\u201d on their labels in 2018.<\/p>\n

Like \u00c1ngeles Carre\u00f1o, Jim\u00e9nez says the bigger brands have the regulatory advantage since they pay them more money and therefore get favorable treatment. (Both the CRM and the CRT charge a tax on each liter produced, meaning high-volume producers contribute substantially more.)<\/p>\n

Fortunately for both Caballito Cerrero and Real Minero their reputations in the market meant that consumers continued to seek them out, even as their labels changed.<\/p>\n

\u201cThe work we\u2019ve done over the last 20 years gave us some comfort in believing that consumers won\u2019t really notice the labeling change,\u201d says \u00c1ngeles Carre\u00f1o. \u201cWe produce everything ourselves, including the raw materials\u2026 and we have built up trust over the years.\u201d<\/p>\n

Of course, the semantics of agave spirits distract from a deeper conversation about what makes a product \u201ccraft.\u201d Is it traditional production, being small batch, or something else, like having the freedom to evolve a product without being restrained by past creators, or regulators?<\/p>\n

\u201cNot following official rules for the tequila category means that we can play with our products more and use different agaves,\u201d says Jim\u00e9nez Teran. Caballito now offers products not exclusively made from blue weber agave, such as its Blanco Chato, made from the Angustifolia species of agave, which are normally used for mezcal.<\/p>\n\n

The New Agave Spirits<\/h2>\n

Being able to innovate and play in the agave spirits world is also attracting some newcomers, such as Ventura Spirits<\/a><\/strong> in California, which makes an agave spirit called La Paloma from locally grown blue weber agaves. They are following in the path forged by St. George Spirits<\/a> in the San Francisco Bay Area, which first produced its \u201cAgave Azul\u201d products in 2008, using agaves imported from Mexico.<\/p>\n

And more recently, spirits maker Top Shelf International<\/a><\/strong> announced it was taking advantage of an abandoned Australian government project to experiment with blue weber agaves. It harvested hijuelos and bulbils from agaves the government planted a decade before, and used them to plant new fields on a former sugarcane property in Queensland. Their intention is to produce a uniquely Australian agave spirit that reflects the local terroir. Production will begin in the second half of 2023, when a new distillery is finished, and the planted agaves are more mature.<\/p>\n

\"Australian
Agaves growing in Queensland, Australia are monitored plant-by-plant via drone.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

\u201cThe world does not need another tequila brand,\u201d says Trent Fraser<\/strong>, who heads Top Shelf\u2019s Australian Agave Project. \u201cThere has been absolute saturation since the celebrity movement and unfortunately with that, credibility in product creation has been compromised,\u201d he adds.<\/p>\n

Until recently, Fraser was the president of Volcan De Mi Tierra<\/a>, the premium tequila made by luxury group LVMH. But Fraser sees this initiative as an opportunity to reshape the category.<\/p>\n

\u201cWe have an entirely blank canvas,\u201d Fraser says, adding that although they will include the best of older, traditional methods, they are not confined by outside influences or authorities.<\/p>\n

Will consumers notice or care how these new agave spirits are labeled? Some of them will, and it will be an advantage, according to Szczech.<\/p>\n

\u201cThere is a small, relatively affluent niche market that has been educated mostly via social media about quality, non-certified agave spirits. That niche is large enough to make a real difference for small, traditional distillers,\u201d he says.<\/p>\n

This is the market Caballito is shooting for. \u201cThis is not a bottle you find in Walmart,\u201d says Jim\u00e9nez. \u201cOur brand is rare and unique. People feel enchanted\u2026 because it reminds them of old-fashioned tequila.\u201d<\/p>\n

And, as Szczech points out, there\u2019s a certain cachet that both producers and consumers can claim in being outside the certified categories.<\/p>\n

Romaya of Old Town Tequila agrees. \u201cAgave spirit consumers love that these spirits are like the outlaws in the Wild West,\u201d he says.<\/p>\n

As for the rest of the market, exposure to agave spirits will likely depend on the influence of bartenders, says Garrone.<\/p>\n

\u201cIt\u2019s really the bartender that guides the customer to new products and gets them excited about it,\u201d he says. \u201cIf the bartender grabs a bottle and says, \u201cI have a great new mezcal for you to try!\u201d, will it really matter if it says \u2018agave spirit\u2019 on the label? I don\u2019t think so.\u201d<\/p>\n<\/div>\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

While the tequila category has seen explosive growth for the last couple of years, slowly but steadily a new trend is starting to form: the rise of the \u201cagave spirit.\u201d This has long been a blanket term for distillates made by cooking, crushing, fermenting, and distilling agaves, which includes both tequila and mezcal. But it […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":59993,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[12029],"tags":[24416,2171,2036,13595,15090,16238,5614],"dealstore":[],"offerexpiration":[],"class_list":["post-59991","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-alcohol","tag-agave","tag-craft","tag-label","tag-redefine","tag-seeks","tag-spirits","tag-whats"],"yoast_head":"\nWhat\u2019s In a Name? 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