Sonoma State University<\/em><\/p>\nIn her Introduction,\u00a0 Vu Hong Lien briefly reviews Vietnam\u2019s culinary history:\u00a0 \u201c\u2026if modern Vietnamese food had a voice, it would be bilingual, for it is the offspring of a marriage of convenience between a rice-based diet and a wheat-based culture\u2026a mixture of French and Vietnamese dishes, adapted and modified to suit and complement one another\u201d(7). \u00a0She adds that while the Chinese occupied Vietnam for ten centuries, that cuisine is a \u201c\u2026 separate tradition used for\u00a0 such important events as weddings and other landmark occasions\u201d(9).<\/p>\n
\u00a0Lien\u2019s work follows a historical perspective, mixing archaeological research with mythological tales.\u00a0\u00a0 The pre-agricultural period\u00a0 involved hunter-gathering, including\u00a0 the harvest of mollusks, especially in the expanding lowlands. \u00a0Somewhat different foods, especially drawn from hunted animals, persist in the highlands still today. New foods and ways of preparing them, such as chicken and bamboo, entered the diet and the kitchen (21). Various kinds of rice began to be cultivated, bringing in changes in social organization in terms of scale and complexity.<\/p>\n
The Chinese conquered Vietnam and then ruled Vietnam from 257 BCE to 938 CE.\u00a0 They started in the north and moved south. \u00a0Cuisine changed, with more production and consumption of rice, wheat and noodles, roast meats, preserved eggs, tofu, sesame seeds, luxury foods, for just a few examples.\u00a0 Chinese\u00a0 cooking and eating utensils came along as well.\u00a0<\/p>\n
The Chinese mostly occupied what is North Vietnam.\u00a0 The middle area had other influences, including Middle Eastern and \u00a0Indian. The Southern sector favored Cambodian cuisine.\u00a0\u00a0 In the first period of\u00a0 Chinese occupation, the Vietnamese provided many spices and supplements for China, such as ginger, galangal, and turmeric.\u00a0 Ginger especially balanced out cold parts of other\u00a0 food.\u00a0 Galangal, a root of the ginger family, also was used in making rice wine (64).<\/p>\n
\u201cThis [Chinese cuisine] highly valued food tops the list of the three best things a Vietnamese man could wish for in life, it is said\u2014along with French housing and a Japanese wife\u201d(69).<\/p>\n
She\u00a0 suggests \u00a0that Chinese food emphasized gender differences. A big \u00a0treat was the two types of preserved eggs:\u00a0 the salted egg and the century or thousand-year-old egg (jelly black egg).\u00a0\u00a0 \u201cIn a male-oriented society like that of Vietnam, the [salted] eggs would be eaten by men with their aperitif of rice wine or other alcoholic drink, before they joined the rest of the family for the main meal\u201d (73).<\/p>\n
\u00a0Furthermore, rich men\u00a0 got to use individual steam cups from which to eat.\u00a0 Individual cups, for example, needed more fuel in cooking, so only rich men could have them.\u00a0 And it made them more \u201cvirile.\u201d<\/p>\n
(80.)\u00a0 Tea was also a male prerogative, and the type of tea varied by wealth, status, and occupation (81-82). (Unfortunately, she presents these examples without reference to any anthropological or historical material.)<\/p>\n
When the French colonized Vietnam, Vietnamese fed their men and boys potatoes: \u201c\u2026[the Vietnamese] believed that the Frenchmen were so much bigger than the Viet because they ate potatoes rather than rice and that their size and strength were the reason for their domination of the Viet\u2026.[they] fed them to their boys as a food supplement, between their meals of rice\u2014since no Viet should be deprived of rice \u201c(119).\u00a0 In addition, French influence spread beef during their rule in the Nineteenth and Twentieth Centuries.\u00a0\u00a0 The meat, which had initially been too expensive and often experienced as too strong, was put into the soup \u00a0pho.<\/em> Men often preferred beef testicles as their protein ingredient, thinking that it would enhance their masculinity (125).<\/p>\nShe addresses the history and continuing controversy about the origins of fish sauce. During the first three millennia, Viet peoples developed nuoc mam<\/em> from fish and shrimp (89.) \u00a0Did the sauce originate in Vietnam or in Rome\u2014liquamen<\/em> or muria <\/em>-\u201ca lower grade version\u201d (87)?\u00a0 Did they influence each other?\u00a0 No definite answers from her and other scholars, but fish sauce is used throughout Vietnam and variants of the peninsula tribal groups, made mam ruoc<\/em> with shrimps.\u00a0 During this period of Chinese rule, 930-1859 CE, other influences, including the afore-mentioned Cham, as well as the Khmer, \u201cmost of whom were Muslim or Hindu,\u201d, brought in\u00a0 curries, \u00a0coconut milk, fish, and goat (104).\u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\nThe French period, 1859-1954, saw significant impacts on Vietnamese cuisine, often in different regions.\u00a0 Overall, the French brought their foodstuffs\u2014charcuterie, p\u00e2t\u00e9, beurre, etc.<\/em>\u2014to their new colonies in Indochina, especially Vietnam.\u00a0 The French residents there wanted familiar\u00a0 meals.\u00a0 The resident Vietnamese populations, however, liked them as well.\u00a0 They became part of the cuisine.\u00a0 Rich people ate differently and more lusciously from poor.\u00a0 But they shared a love of the colonialists\u2019 cooking and beverages, such as coffee.\u00a0 The latter became an iconic part of what the Vietnamese drank (113 et seq<\/u>.<\/em>).<\/p>\n The Vietnamese also used the French baguette in a variety of ways, particularly in the South.\u00a0 As noted earlier, banh mi<\/em> meant any kind of breaded formulation.\u00a0 During the French period, baguettes were transformed into diverse kinds of sandwiches, especially in the South.\u00a0 Vietnamese prefer moister foods, so mayonnaise, more eggy, or butter, \u00a0were used.\u00a0 Depending on price, different fillings were then spread in the bread.\u00a0 The War also meant a new ingredient: cheddar cheese, initially a staple of relief in the South for people fleeing the North.\u00a0<\/p>\nDuring the French period, other changes occurred. The Vietnamese experimented with rice plates in fast-food formats, sold from carts.\u00a0 Rice was still an important export from the country, but \u201cconsidered inferior\u201d to Burmese and Thai rice.\u00a0 Its cultivation created a rich elite of French, Chinese, and some Vietnamese and also impoverished much of the country (132). During the same period, opium, introduced by the Chinese, was processed in the colony.\u00a0 Eventually it became a state licensed product, and many people had become addicted.\u00a0 The departure of the French meant that opium was no longer legal.\u00a0 Consequently, users went underground.\u00a0 Addiction, however, has slowly diminished (135).<\/p>\n
The author details the ways in which the Great Depression and WWII affected the food\u2014and the politics\u2014of the country.\u00a0 The Great Depression caused shortages of rice and other foodstuffs.\u00a0 Vichy control over Indochina led to an alliance with the Japanese against China, leading to less food production.\u00a0\u00a0 That meant less rice, \u00a0which led to hunger, malnutrition, and starvation.\u00a0 It also led to peasant support against the Japanese and then against the French after the end of World War II.\u00a0 The Vietnamese ate rice, hot rice, and they figured out ways to cook it without smoke being a detectable target (143).<\/p>\n
\u00a0Lien provides a revealing and illuminating history of how foodways changed after the French left.\u00a0 The country was split into two, with the North under Communist control and the South under American control.\u00a0 The Communists continued rationing, and the \u00a0diet stayed the same.\u00a0 The Americans provided American food, not to the Southerners\u2019 taste.\u00a0<\/p>\n
After the end of the\u00a0 Vietnam War in 1975, food again became rationed throughout the reunited country. Russian food\u00a0 became available in the reunited Vietnam.\u00a0\u00a0 Some people found it acceptable\u2014for a while.\u00a0 Today, on can find a variety of foods, with \u201ctraditional\u201d and French foods predominating.\u00a0 \u00a0Foreign foods, such as Japanese sushi, Detroit Pizza (Reference 1) \u00a0or Starbucks, are commonplace, and well-stocked supermarkets \u00a0have appeared as of 2016, the book\u2019s \u00a0publication date (159).<\/p>\n
The rest of the book is a wonderful m\u00e9lange<\/em>:\u00a0 a description of the role food plays in Vietnam today, along with many delicious recipes.\u00a0 Many traditions continue.\u00a0 Vietnamese prefer freshness.\u00a0 Women remain the cooks.\u00a0 The mother decides on the placement of food on a tray\u00a0 to be served.\u00a0 Families prepare food for the dead is still prepared. But some changes have also occurred.\u00a0 People now enjoy many kinds of snacks and varieties of bun<\/em>. Vietnamese have migrated abroad, bringing their cuisine worldwide. \u00a0Pho<\/em> and banh mi <\/em>continue to delight everywhere.\u00a0<\/p>\nThis book is useful for anthropologists, sociologists, historians, and food scholars in general.\u00a0 It provides a prism into aspects of Vietnamese food and political history not normally addressed.\u00a0 As noted above, it should include more research supporting some of its contentions. \u00a0That includes Nir Aveli\u2019s essential work on Vietnamese food and its place in society (2012).\u00a0 Still, the book is appropriate for all levels of college students as well as the general reader interested in food.\u00a0<\/p>\n
BIBIOGRAPHY<\/p>\n
2012<\/p>\n
\u00a0Nir Avieli.\u00a0 Rice Talks: Food and Community in a Vietnamese Town. Indiana University Press.\u00a0 Bloomington, Indiana.<\/p>\n
Sites:<\/p>\n
Reference 1<\/p>\n
Detroit Pizza in Vietnam<\/p>\n
(Accessed Sept. 24, 2024)<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
Vu Hong Lien. Rice and Baguette: A History of Food\u00a0 in Vietnam.\u00a0 Reaktion Press. London: 2016\u00a0 ISBN:\u00a0 9781780236575.\u00a0 pp.252. Richard Zimmer Sonoma State University In her Introduction,\u00a0 Vu Hong Lien briefly reviews Vietnam\u2019s culinary history:\u00a0 \u201c\u2026if modern Vietnamese food had a voice, it would be bilingual, for it is the offspring of a marriage of […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":53637,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[11767],"tags":[3582,15290,6837],"dealstore":[],"offerexpiration":[],"class_list":["post-53636","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-anthropology","tag-baguette","tag-foodanthropology","tag-rice"],"yoast_head":"\n
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Richard Zimmer Sonoma State University In her Introduction,\u00a0 Vu Hong Lien briefly reviews Vietnam\u2019s culinary history:\u00a0 \u201c\u2026if modern Vietnamese food had a voice, it would be bilingual, for it is the offspring of a marriage of […]\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/fivemor.com\/?p=53636\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Som2ny Network\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2025-01-28T17:05:15+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/fivemor.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/9781780236575-1-wpv_0x448.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"299\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"448\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"admin\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"admin\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"7 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\/\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/fivemor.com\/?p=53636#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/fivemor.com\/?p=53636\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"admin\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/fivemor.com\/#\/schema\/person\/b85e3c3dc0e1daea076524dc8810c371\"},\"headline\":\"Rice and Baguette \u2013 FoodAnthropology\",\"datePublished\":\"2025-01-28T17:05:15+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/fivemor.com\/?p=53636\"},\"wordCount\":1415,\"commentCount\":0,\"publisher\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/fivemor.com\/#organization\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\/\/fivemor.com\/?p=53636#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\/\/fivemor.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/01\/9781780236575-1-wpv_0x448.jpg\",\"keywords\":[\"Baguette\",\"FoodAnthropology\",\"Rice\"],\"articleSection\":[\"Anthropology\"],\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"CommentAction\",\"name\":\"Comment\",\"target\":[\"https:\/\/fivemor.com\/?p=53636#respond\"]}]},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\/\/fivemor.com\/?p=53636\",\"url\":\"https:\/\/fivemor.com\/?p=53636\",\"name\":\"Rice and Baguette \u2013 FoodAnthropology - 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