{"id":49176,"date":"2025-01-26T18:44:30","date_gmt":"2025-01-26T18:44:30","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/peraltafinancing.com\/alcohol\/marisa-finetti-a-bounty-of-deliciousness-in-reggio-emilia\/"},"modified":"2025-01-26T18:44:30","modified_gmt":"2025-01-26T18:44:30","slug":"marisa-finetti-a-bounty-of-deliciousness-in-reggio-emilia","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/fivemor.com\/?p=49176","title":{"rendered":"MARISA FINETTI | A bounty of deliciousness in Reggio Emilia"},"content":{"rendered":"


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The tri-colored Italian flag was established here. It\u2019s the birthplace of a renowned educational philosophy, and the city where the young Kobe Bryant started dribbling the basketball. Reggio, as locals call it, is also the home of Luciano Pavarotti\u2019s first operatic performance and the headquarters of Italy\u2019s Max Mara fashion house. Amid its cobbled streets dotted with historical churches, theatres, galleries, and monuments, Reggio Emilia is already culturally and fashionably rich. And then there\u2019s food and wine. Situated perfectly between Modena and Parma, Reggio Emilia is an oft-overlooked hub along the Emilia Romagna region\u2019s gastronomic route, Via Emilia, in Northern Italy. But it gained one more devoted fan. Me.<\/p>\n

In fact, the entire region is all about culinary dreams realized. Ask any Italian where they\u2019d go to eat and drink. Besides choosing their mother\u2019s kitchen, they\u2019d probably tag Emilia Romagna. And, can you blame them? Tortellini was born here, after all. According to legend, it was modeled after Venus\u2019 navel. Then there\u2019s the tagliatelle pasta\u00a0 \u2013 created by a court chef who was inspired by Princess Lucrezia Borgia\u2019s hair on the day of her wedding to the Duke of (nearby) Ferrara. But the area has more to offer than pasta shapes.\u00a0 How about Parmigiano Reggiano, Prosciutto di Parma (which deserves its own story later), balsamic vinegar, and Lambrusco wines?\u00a0 Yes, Lambrusco.\u00a0 All E-R material.<\/p>\n

And my visit to the country\u2019s agricultural heartland was the best way to experience all its gastronomic greatness.<\/p>\n

Parmigiano Reggiano \u2013 \u201cKing of Cheeses\u201d<\/strong><\/h4>\n

Producing products of quality and authenticity takes passion and dedication. For the Parmigiano Reggiano cheesemaker, the morning starts with fresh milk \u2013 about 300 gallons (1,100 liters) \u2013 in a bell-shaped copper vat. Situated in Parma, the factory (Caseificio Ugolotti) on this day has eight cauldrons animatedly spinning milk at the same time. The morning\u2019s and previous night\u2019s milk, along with the addition of a culture-rich whey starter and applied heat, results in heavy, compact cheese granules which sink to the bottom of the vat. Using a strong, mesh-like cloth, two cheesemakers hoist the mass of granules \u2013 each destined to become an 80-pound Parmigiano Reggiano wheel \u2013 to the surface and tie them to a wooden rod spanning the vat. Each cloth-coddled cheese is then placed into a durable mold to give it its final shape. Overnight, a rigid plastic marking band imprints its authenticity, production date, cheese factory registration number, and the unmistakable dotted Parmigiano Reggiano markings. This serves as an identity card which makes it possible to trace its entire production back to its origins, anytime and anywhere. When removed from the molds, the wheels are left to float in a brine.<\/p>\n

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\u201cIn about three to four weeks, the salt will go into the cheese,\u201d says Cristiana Capelli of the Parmigiano Reggiano Consortium. \u201cNow touch \u2013 the rind is already hard. No wax, no plastic. It\u2019s just hardened cheese on the outside. Even the label is edible.\u201d<\/p>\n

From a giant set of clanking keys, she finds the one that unlocks the heavy rolling doors, which open to a massive, dimly-lit room with high ceilings, under which rows of cheese wheels sit, gracefully aging. After a minimum of 12 months, the wheels are tapped like a drum by using a small hammer. This is done by a Consortium representative, like Capelli, to check for the slightest of oddities \u2013 all to ensure Parmigiano Reggiano\u2019s tradition of integrity and excellence.<\/p>\n

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It\u2019s important to note that for cheese to be Parmigiano Reggiano DOP, the milk production, processing, maturation, and packaging all take place exclusively in the provinces of Northern Italy, including Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena, and parts of Bologna and Mantua. In other words, the mystery cheese labeled \u201cParmesan\u201d in the dairy section of the local grocery store is not Parmigiano Reggiano.<\/p>\n

These are not authenticated, nor made in its original birthplace. Much like Champagne or Prosciutto di Parma, Parmigiano Reggiano is legally a protected designation of origin (PDO), Denominazione di Origine Protetta (DOP) in Italian.<\/p>\n

Parmigiano Reggiano is an extraordinary cheese, with aromas and flavors that render it unique and inimitable. Its distinct aroma is reminiscent of fresh grass from the gentle hills nearby. This hard, but not compact, cheese easily surrenders to the spade knife and crumbles into shards to reveal salty nuttiness, with the mildest degree of creaminess and pliability, especially when young, with a slight yet discernible and satisfying crystalline grit.<\/p>\n

Lambrusco \u2013 the loveable fizzy red<\/strong><\/h4>\n

What goes with something so exquisitely assertive as Parmigiano Reggiano is a wine that enhances the flavors and subtly tames its noble greatness. Around here, Lambrusco reigns in the wine category. Not only do the grapes grow within close proximity to the cows that produce the milk for the cheese, but Lambrusco has characteristics that make it famously food-friendly and delicious.\u00a0<\/p>\n

I was met by none other than Ermes Scardova, export manager of Medici Ermete, a pioneering Lambrusco producer since the late 19th century. Scardova is a man of slight stature, an avid runner, native Reggio Emilia(n), history buff, and food and wine devotee. Anyone would want to be his sidekick, if only to eat and drink well and have great conversation. He, of all people, knows the history of Lambrusco, the fresh, fizzy red of the region and how artisanal Lambruscos have been increasingly winning over the libatiously adventurous.\u00a0<\/p>\n

But, much like ambrosia salad, the canine pit bull, or Spam, Lambrusco has had a lingering image problem, in this case the relentless status as something reminiscent of grandma\u2019s candied wine cooler. While Lambrusco is growing in popularity, it might still remain a bit misunderstood.\u00a0<\/p>\n

Chef and television host Lidia Bastianich says it well: \u201cLambruscos have been misrepresented by industrial versions that have the soda pop flavors they think Americans might want.\u201d Finding a quality Lambrusco takes some resourcefulness and great ambassadors. Luckily, Lambrusco has a torch bearer, the Medici family of Medici Ermete.<\/p>\n

\u201cMedici Ermete was the first winery to believe in the potential of the Lambrusco grape and to enhance it,\u201d says Scardova. \u201cIn fact, they believed in the production of single cru wines \u2013 the Lambrusco \u201cArte e Concerto\u201d was the first single vineyard of Lambrusco to be produced.\u201d<\/p>\n

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Being the first to lower production yields per hectare and practice green harvesting to obtain better quality wines was a pioneering move. They also claim to be the first winery to export Lambrusco in its original, dry form to many markets across the world.<\/p>\n

Lambrusco\u2019s sprightly charm is in its psychedelic violet foam, fresh effervescence and firm acidity, kept honest with the savoriness of tilled earth and a tongue-hugging dry sensation. The super power of Lambrusco is its ability to pair with a number of foods, especially rich and oily foods, such as locally-prized salumi, namely Prosciutto di Parma and mortadella served with fried pillows of gnocco fritto, pizzas, pastas, and homespun Parmigiano Reggiano.<\/p>\n

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Over dinner at Caff\u00e8 Arti e Mestieri in Reggio Emilia, a contemporary take on local specialties, Scardova and I talk about the uniqueness of Lambrusco, as they are a family of grapes and wines from the Emilia side of the Emilia-Romagna region. \u201cLambrusco is emblematic of the distinctive offerings that can be found in Italy: wines rich in regional tradition and history, made from native grape varieties, and offering idiosyncratic style and character,\u201d he says. \u201cAlberto Medici (proprietor) said, \u2018Lambrusco can be a universe of different varieties.\u2019\u201d<\/p>\n

While no Lambrusco is alike, one of Italy\u2019s oldest family of grape varieties give distinct wines which make them versatile for many types of cuisines, including Indian, Korean, Thai, and Vietnamese. Have it with a cheeseburger, supreme combination pizza, or salami sandwich. Pick your favorite food and pour a glass of Lambrusco di Sorbara, the lightest of the three main styles. You got a match!<\/p>\n

\u201cYou can have an aperitif with a Lambrusco di Sorbara combined with cold cuts and cheeses, then continue with Lambrusco Salamino with tagliatelle alla Bolognese and then finish with a sweet Lambrusco Grasparossa together with a fruit salad or a tart with berries,\u201d Scardova says.\u00a0\u00a0<\/p>\n

On the table is yet another example of Lambrusco\u2019s diversity, the metodo classico<\/em> \u201cUnique\u201d Ros\u00e9 Brut Lambrusco, made of Lambrusco Marani grapes. Together with gnocco fritto<\/em> served with delicate slices of Prosciutto di Parma and mortadella, and erbazzone<\/em>, a savory pie of herbs and leafy green, it is a crisp and radiating dry, fruity bubbly.<\/p>\n

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Photo courtesy of Medici Ermete<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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Medici\u2019s single vineyard \u201cConcerto\u201d Lambrusco Reggiano DOP, made with Lambrusco Salamino grapes, accompanies the heartier part of the meal, showcasing a brilliant cube of five different layers of meat topped with a Lambrusco mousse, and cappelletti in brodo<\/em> (in broth), dainty \u201clittle hats\u201d of filled pasta akin to tortellini in a clear, hot broth. The intensely brilliant wine of dry, fruity exuberance is delectably harmonious with the cuisine. It\u2019s vivaciously fresh with a clean finish, always preparing the palate for what\u2019s next. Perhaps a Lambrusco cocktail to keep the night going at Jigger Spiriti e Cucina in the heart of historical Reggio Emilia? Of course! Lambrusco in cocktails is widely popular here. And understandably so. The deep, fruity, and savory frizzante offers quaffable energy in an already convivial and lively bar.<\/p>\n

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Traditional Balsamic Vinegar \u2013 handcrafted and \u201csealed\u201d with love<\/strong><\/h4>\n

There are many Lambrusco grapes, and part of their diversity is perhaps that they (along with other local varieties) are also used in the highly coveted balsamic vinegar, wine\u2019s other \u201cself.\u201d<\/p>\n

But not just any vinegar, where the process is quick and the result is a sharp, thin liquid. Traditional balsamic vinegar, on the contrary, is a product of passion and patience, as evidenced by its thick and luscious texture and deep flavors.<\/p>\n

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\u201cRemember the word \u2018traditional\u2019,\u201d says Scardova, as we ascend into Medici\u2019s balsamic vinegar lofts at Tenuta La Rampata estate, a building that dates back to the 19th century, which are filled wall-to-wall, floor-to-ceiling with little barrels. \u201cAceto Balsamico Tradizionale<\/em>\u2026 the most famous is from Modena, but the oldest is Reggio Emilia.\u201d\u00a0<\/p>\n

Juice (not wine) from local grapes, such as Lambrusco and Trebbiano, are concentrated over a low flame for approximately 15 hours then aged slowly for two years in a barrique, after which time the vinegar spends a number of years in a battery of barrels (batteria) comprised of graduated sizes and consisting of two types of wood.\u00a0<\/p>\n

\u201cAt least two different woods are disciplinary of balsamic vinegar\u2026chestnut, oak, mulberry, cherry, apricot , juniper,\u2026\u201d says Scardova. Every year the vinegar continues to age via the solera system, for the minimum required 12 years, the vinegar becomes thicker and more concentrated. Only then, will it undergo a strict examination by a commission of expert tasters, and if it meets specific quality and characteristics, will it bear the seal of authenticity. Clearly, making traditional balsamic vinegar is a way of life. It\u2019s a product of nature and a product of culture.\u00a0<\/p>\n

Look for the word tradizionale<\/em>, which is missing from the label of mass-produced vinegars. It\u2019s a small distinction but indicates a big difference. The words Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena DOP<\/em> or Aceto Balsamico di Reggio Emilia DOP<\/em> will assure you it\u2019s the real thing. They fetch higher prices, but promise an experience that transcends description.<\/p>\n

How do you enjoy such exquisiteness? One drop at a time. Extra points if drizzled on Parmigiano Reggiano with a glass of Lambrusco. But from which Lambrusco grape?\u00a0 Ah, stay tuned for more on Lambrusco.<\/p>\n

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Story originally published in David Magazine.\u00a0 Updated here in 2024.
<\/em>Featured image courtesy of Medici Ermete.<\/em><\/h6>\n<\/p><\/div>\n