The dining room at Marcus<\/a>, in Montr\u00e9al\u2019s Four Seasons Hotel, gleams with marble and brass. Light streams through floor-to-ceiling windows, catching on polished glassware and the curve of plush banquettes. There\u2019s a soft hum from the open kitchen.<\/p>\n In a corner nook of cosy banquettes, Rapha\u00ebl B\u00e9r\u00eache<\/a> stands as he speaks, a glass in hand, posture relaxed yet assured. His tone is both poetic and practical, shaped by years of experience. The conversation flows easily; technical at times but with such obvious underlying passion and conviction that it is captivating all the same . He talks about time<\/em> as if it were an ingredient, and about how every step, from vineyard to cellar, serves the pursuit of a clearly defined goal.<\/p>\n A Family Estate Rooted in Time and Place<\/strong><\/p>\n B\u00e9r\u00eache & Fils was founded in 1847 in Ludes, a Premier Cru village perched on the northern slope of the Montagne de Reims. Today, fifth-generation brothers Rapha\u00ebl and Vincent B\u00e9r\u00eache carry the legacy forward. Vincent oversees the vineyards, while Rapha\u00ebl manages the cellar. Together, they\u2019ve built a reputation as one of Champagne\u2019s most thoughtful grower-producers; a benchmark for precision and patience.<\/p>\n The family\u2019s holdings of organic and biodynamically farmed vineyards stretch across 11.5 hectares<\/a>. They are spread out across Champagne\u2019s major sub-regions, each contributing a distinct voice to the B\u00e9r\u00eache & Fils palette. On the Montagne de Reims, the heartland around Ludes (Premier Cru) provides the core: chalk-clay slopes, old-vine Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, and parcels like Les Beaux Regards<\/em> and Le Cran<\/em> that reflect the ridge\u2019s mineral tension. In the Petite Montagne de Reims (village of Ormes) the grapes root in sandy-chalk soils and bring freshness and finesse \u2014 for example the single-parcel Campania Remensis<\/em>. <\/p>\n The Vall\u00e9e de la Marne adds depth and fruit, especially through the Meunier vines in Mareuil-le-Port and Le Port-\u00e0-Binson (for the \u201cRive Gauche\u201d cuv\u00e9e) planted on clay-chalk with moderate sun exposure. Beyond the core, B\u00e9r\u00eache has also acquired plots in flagship Grand Cru villages: C\u00f4te des Blancs (Cramant, for pure Chardonnay), and other Grand Cru sites in the Montagne (A\u00ff, Ambonnay, Mailly) where chalky, steep slopes give Pinot-dominated wines added structure and complexity. <\/p>\n In 2025, new plots in Verzenay among others joined the estate, a reflection of their long-term commitment to diversity and terroir precision. \u201cEvery new parcel brings a new perspective,\u201d Rapha\u00ebl said with a smile. \u201cBut the foundation remains Ludes. That\u2019s where our identity begins.\u201d Ludes\u2019 vineyards, facing north and northeast, with chalk-clay soils, provide a long slow, growing season resulting in wines with low pH, remarkable tension, and fine, complex aromatics. <\/p>\n In the cellar, a fine balance of precision and restraint governs every detail. Fermentations are spontaneous, relying exclusively on ambient yeasts, and proceed slowly \u2014 often six weeks or more. \u201cThis is far longer than customary,\u201d Rapha\u00ebl affirms, going on to explain how this unhurried evolution preserves the inheritant character of each terroir. <\/p>\n Base wines rest on their lees until May, gaining texture, breadth, and depth. All wines are vinified and aged in oak barrels that the family seasons themselves. Rather than acquiring used barrels from quality producers in other regions, the barrels are purchased new. They are first filled with second-press taille<\/a><\/em> wine, which is later sold off. In this way, Rapha\u00ebl explains, the barrels are \u201cinformed with the taste of Champagne\u201d from the outset. Only after this initial, first fill to imprint the barrels, does Rapha\u00ebl use them to produce the estate\u2019s own cuv\u00e9es.<\/p>\n The wines undergo no forced malolactic conversion. Low pH levels and cool cellar temperatures act as a natural inhibitor. \u201cIf it happens, it happens,\u201d he said with a shrug. \u201cBut it is rare and we just don\u2019t need it.\u201d<\/p>\n Once bottled, the different cuv\u00e9e ages two to eight years sur lattes, sealed under natural cork instead of the typical crown cap. The cork allows minuscule oxygen exchange, yielding texture and aromatic depth \u2014 avoiding the reduction that can occur under airtight seals. To ensure purity, B\u00e9r\u00eache sources individually tested Amorim corks, screened for TCA using gas chromatography. Even disgorgement is done in-house, with the family\u2019s own bac \u00e0 glace<\/em> machine, allowing them full control from start to finish.<\/p>\n This meticulous process isn\u2019t about perfectionism for its own sake. It\u2019s about continuity \u2014 about honouring the natural rhythm of each parcel and the quiet dialogue between soil, grape and time.<\/p>\n Each cuv\u00e9e felt distinct, yet connected by a common thread: purity, depth, and a sense of vibrancy and energy that defines B\u00e9r\u00eache\u2019s style.<\/p>\n 100% Pinot Meunier from 50-year-old vines in Le Port-\u00e0-Binson (Vall\u00e9e de la Marne) on clay-chalk soils. Blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from Ormes (Petite Montagne de Reims), south-facing slopes known as Les Mont\u00e9es<\/em>. Pale salmon hue. Lifted floral aromas underscored by orange zest, raspberry, and bergamot lead into a creamy, precise palate. Clean, pure, and finely structured with zesty citrus drive and refreshing bitters.<\/p>\n 100% Chardonnay from old vines in Ludes 1er Cru, from parcels Les Beaux Regards<\/em> (planted 1902) and Les Clos<\/em> (1970). Delicate aromas of linden flower, lemongrass, and raw honey, give way to lively saline notes on the palate. Elegant, savoury, spiced, and subtly powerful with very fine bubbles.<\/p>\n Blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier from the Montagne de Reims, Petite Montagne, and Vall\u00e9e de la Marne, with 40% reserve wines. 100% Chardonnay from Grand Cru vineyards in Cramant (C\u00f4te des Blancs). 75% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay from the \u201cBrise Pot\u201d and \u201cFroide Terre\u201d parcels in A\u00ff. Blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from mid-slope vines in Ludes 1er Cru, prized for their mineral intensity. Lunch with Rapha\u00ebl B\u00e9r\u00eache was a reminder that true craftsmanship often speaks softly. His Champagnes are not built to impress through volume or flash, but through precision, patience, and an unwavering commitment to authenticity. Each glass seemed to echo his own character: thoughtful, grounded, and quietly confident.<\/p>\n Where to Buy in Qu\u00e9bec:<\/strong> SAQ <\/a>\/ Agent: Vin Dame Jeanne<\/a><\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" The dining room at Marcus, in Montr\u00e9al\u2019s Four Seasons Hotel, gleams with marble and brass. Light streams through floor-to-ceiling windows, catching on polished glassware and the curve of plush banquettes. There\u2019s a soft hum from the open kitchen. In a corner nook of cosy banquettes, Rapha\u00ebl B\u00e9r\u00eache stands as he speaks, a glass in hand, […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":324986,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[151939,151940,151941,151942,151943,151944,151945,151946,151947,116296,151948,151949,151950,151951,115366,151938,151952,97595,151953,151954,151955,125177],"tags":[151956,1784,125016,1066,38536],"dealstore":[],"offerexpiration":[],"class_list":["post-324985","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-biodynamic-viticulture","category-champagne-bereche-fils","category-champagne-producer-profile","category-champagne-tasting","category-champagne-terroir","category-cote-des-blancs","category-extra-brut-champagne","category-family-owned-winery","category-grower-champagne","category-jacky-blisson-mw","category-ludes-premier-cru","category-marcus-montreal","category-montagne-de-reims","category-natural-cork-ageing","category-organic-viticulture","category-producers","category-raphael-bereche","category-reviews","category-slow-fermentation","category-terroir-driven-wines","category-vallee-de-la-marne","category-wines","tag-bereche","tag-champagne","tag-fils","tag-lunch","tag-raphael"],"yoast_head":"\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/jackyblisson.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/10\/image-1024x340.png\")
<\/a><\/figure>\nFrom Vineyard to Cellar<\/h2>\n
The Wines in the Glass<\/h2>\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/jackyblisson.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/10\/IMG_20251024_115545_291-e1761336298919-1024x522.jpg\")
<\/a><\/figure>\nChampagne B\u00e9r\u00eache \u201cRive Gauche\u201d 2020, Extra Brut \u2013 94 pts. LW<\/strong><\/h3>\n
Pale gold with a hint of amber. Aromas of quince, ginger, digestive biscuit, and subtle cedar spice lead to a broad, saline palate framed by fine mousse and subtle noble bitters. Gastronomic in style, this slow-growing Meunier balances fruit and structure with remarkable poise.<\/p>\nChampagne B\u00e9r\u00eache \u201cCampania Remensis\u201d Ros\u00e9 2021, Extra Brut \u2013 95 pts. LW<\/strong><\/h3>\n
Champagne B\u00e9r\u00eache \u201cLes Beaux Regards\u201d 2020, Extra Brut \u2013 96 pts. LW<\/strong><\/h3>\n
Champagne B\u00e9r\u00eache \u201cBrut R\u00e9serve\u201d (2022 base), Extra Brut \u2013 93 pts. LW<\/strong><\/h3>\n
Broad and savoury yet finely balanced. A creamy mid-palate gives way to vibrant acidity and chalky tension \u2014 a clear expression of the house style: articulate, vinous, precise.<\/p>\nChampagne B\u00e9r\u00eache \u201cCramant Grand Cru\u201d 2019, Extra Brut \u2013 98 pts. LW<\/strong><\/h3>\n
Seductive aromas of roasted hazelnut, lemon peel, and apricot pit. The palate is racy and concentrated, its lace-like texture stretching into a seemingly endless, savoury mineral finish. Profound, and hugely elegant.<\/p>\nChampagne B\u00e9r\u00eache \u201cA\u00ff Grand Cru\u201d 2016, Extra Brut \u2013 97 pts. JB<\/strong><\/h3>\n
Pale gold with amber highlights. Aromas of almond croissant and quince paste open to a broad, creamy, layered palate. Intriguing hints of umami balance the generous, voluptious character. Opulent yet refined.<\/p>\nChampagne B\u00e9r\u00eache \u201cLe Cran\u201d 2017, 1er Cru Extra Brut \u2013 95 pts. LW<\/strong><\/h3>\n
Pleasantly oxidative in a nutty, savoury spiced style with lashings of ginger biscuit. The palate is textural and saline, combining texture and clarity in equal measure \u2014 a contemplative, food-worthy Champagne.<\/p>\n
\nFinal Thoughts<\/h2>\n