{"id":301368,"date":"2025-06-19T03:29:13","date_gmt":"2025-06-19T03:29:13","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/peraltafinancing.com\/adventure\/new-routes-on-the-seven-thousanders-ultar-sar-and-spantik-in-pakistan\/"},"modified":"2025-06-19T03:29:13","modified_gmt":"2025-06-19T03:29:13","slug":"new-routes-on-the-seven-thousanders-ultar-sar-and-spantik-in-pakistan","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/fivemor.com\/?p=301368","title":{"rendered":"New routes on the seven-thousanders Ultar Sar and Spantik in Pakistan"},"content":{"rendered":"


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\"Ultar<\/a>
Ultar Sar (in the center of the picture, the Southeast Pillar<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Two alpine highlights at the start of the summer climbing season in the Karakoram in Pakistan: US-American Ethan Berman<\/a>, Australian-Argentine climber Sebastian Pelletti <\/a>and Dutch-born Maarten van Haeren<\/a> opened a new route on the 7,388-meter-high Ultar Sar. The Frenchman Mathieu Maynadier<\/a> and the Pakistani Mueez Ud din<\/a> managed a first ascent on the 7,027-meter-high Spantik. Both teams were climbing in alpine style, i.e. they did without fixed ropes, fixed high camps, high altitude porters and bottled oxygen.<\/p>\n

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Success at the second attempt<\/h2>\n

Berman, Pelletti and van Haeren mastered the 3,000-meter-high Southeast Pillar of Ultar Sar for the first time. At least that\u2019s what their local partner agency Pakistan Higher Ground Expeditions reports<\/a>. The trio reached the summit on Wednesday last week (11 June), it said. Further details are not yet known.<\/p>\n

The three climbers had unsuccessfully attempted the route in the summer of 2024. At around 6,000 meters, they had turned back due to difficult snow conditions on a hanging glacier.<\/p>\n

Ultar Sar is part of the Batura-Muztagh massif in the northwest of the Karakoram. The mountain was first climbed in 1996 by the Japanese Akito Yamazaki and Kiyoshi Matsuoka<\/a> \u2013 also in alpine style via the southwest flank of the mountain. Yamazaki died on the descent as a result of high altitude sickness.<\/p>\n

First ascent via the East Ridge of Spantik<\/h2>\n

\u201cAfter weeks in the Karakoram, we returned with more than just frostbite and memories,\u201d writes Pakistani mountain guide Muuez Ud din, who climbed with Frenchman Mathieu Maynadier, on Instagram<\/a>. \u201cWe opened a new route on the East Ridge of Spantik.\u201d The details are still missing here too.<\/p>\n

Maynadier achieved the first ascent of the Southeast Face of the 6,600-meter-high Meru Peak<\/a> in the Garhwal Himalayas in India in 2023 with Swiss climber Roger Sch\u00e4li and South Tyrolean Simon Gietl. They were nominated for the Piolet d\u2019Or, the \u201cMountaineering Oscar\u201d, in 2024.<\/p>\n

\"The<\/a>
The 7027-meter-high Spantik<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The Spantik in the west of the Karakoram was first summited by a German expedition in 1955 \u2013 via the Southeast Ridge. This is also the route taken by commercial expedition operators who offer the mountain as an \u201ceasy seven-thousander\u201d. Mind you, on this route.<\/p>\n

In 1987, the two Britons Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders<\/a> caused a sensation when they mastered the 2,200-metre-high \u201cGolden Pillar\u201d, the Northwest Pillar of Spantik for the first time.<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n