{"id":295083,"date":"2025-06-15T14:24:34","date_gmt":"2025-06-15T14:24:34","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/peraltafinancing.com\/uncategorized\/road-tripping-through-karnataka-and-beyond-the-urge-to-wander\/"},"modified":"2025-06-15T14:24:34","modified_gmt":"2025-06-15T14:24:34","slug":"road-tripping-through-karnataka-and-beyond-the-urge-to-wander","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/fivemor.com\/?p=295083","title":{"rendered":"Road Tripping Through Karnataka (And Beyond!) \u2013 The Urge To Wander"},"content":{"rendered":"


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From the most scenic stretch of Charmadi Ghat between Belur and Mudigere<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

There isn\u2019t a dearth of exotic destinations in India to pick from, I have plenty shortlisted in my travel-inspiration folder. But the thought of returning to remembered landscapes to rediscover travel post lockdown was comforting.<\/p>\n

Our return to coastal Karnataka was not the first break from our extended Covid hibernation. We\u2019d dashed off to Aurangabad for a few days in November (2021) to visit the extraordinary Ajanta & Ellora caves<\/a> with my sister Mallika and her daughter, Sahana. <\/p>\n

The uncertain future of travel was the inevitable topic of conversation over evening drinks in our Aurangabad hotel room. Talk veered, one evening, to my long shelved west coast itinerary. Turned out, Sahana had a wedding to attend in Goa in mid December and intended to drive up from (her mother\u2019s place in) Bangalore. Why not combine the two? Bingo! We had a plan. <\/p>\n

The journey was good for our souls. An unfolding of our collective memories even if we didn\u2019t actually use Mangalore as a base. Through temples and beaches, a relaxing two days in a wellness resort and over a highway flanked by a river and the sea along the Karavali and the Southern Konkan coasts all the way north to Goa. <\/p>\n

I have never missed owning a drone more.<\/a><\/p>\n

And it included a surfeit of coastal cuisine. If you haven\u2019t tasted seafood from this region you have no idea what you are missing. I live beside the ocean in Chennai and it ought to be similar but it isn\u2019t, for some reason. Neither are the beaches (nor the rains)! And that is NOT a biased statement. <\/p>\n

Here\u2019s a summary of our itinerary and some of the highlights from our two weeks motoring through Karnataka and Goa. Scroll down to the end for trip logistics and tips<\/a>.<\/p>\n

SHETTIHALLI: A LITTLE DETOUR TO A SUBMERGED CHURCH<\/h2>\n
\"Submerged<\/figure>\n

We lived around an hour away from Shettihalli Rosary Church<\/a> in the 80s. And Gorur dam used to be a favourite picnic spot. But we only learned about its existence some three decades later. From Instagram!<\/p>\n

The Franciscan church built in 1860 was abandoned when the construction of the dam (in 1979) caused it to be submerged during the monsoon season. During summers, reservoir levels drop low enough to be able to walk across. <\/p>\n

By mid December, I had expected to at least ride a coracle (circular reed boat) through its gothic arches but unprecedented rains throughout this region ensured much of it remained under water. It was still a beautiful, haunting sight and worth the brief detour en route to our Belur homestay.<\/p>\n

BELUR AND HALEBIDU: REVISITING DAZZLING HOYSALA ART<\/span><\/h2>\n
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\"Carved
Chennakeshava Swamy Temple, Belur<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n
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\"Krishna
An exquisite Krishna with his flute \u2013 Hoysaleshwara Temple, Halebidu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n
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Dancing apsara. That jutting toe was the standout detail for me in the sculptural smorgasbord that is Halebidu.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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At the entrance to Kappe Chennigaraya Temple in the Belur complex<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

Belur Chennakeshava Temple and Helebidu Hoysaleshwara temples are two celebrated examples of the profusely ornamented temple architecture of the Hoysala Dynasty that ruled this region of interior Karnataka between 1006-1346 CE. <\/p>\n

We lived in Hassan for nearly a decade in the 80s. Its position midway between Mangalore (my hometown) and Bangalore (Ravi\u2019s parents\u2019 home) ensured a constant stream of guests from both directions and they were usually eager to visit nearby monuments. I had practically turned tour guide to these temples and to the gigantic monolith of Bahubali in Sravanabelagula. <\/p>\n

How Sahana, then studying in Mangalore, missed one of my guided \u2018tours\u2019 despite frequenting our home along with my younger sister is a mystery. But she claims she did and since I had no photos to show for all my visits we added a pit stop to our coastal circuit. It felt good to rekindle the wonder that familiarity had dimmed somewhat.<\/p>\n

Moodbidri: Jain legacies in the \u2018Jain Kashi\u2019 Of The SoutH<\/h2>\n
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\"Outer
The Kallu Basadi from across the road.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n
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\"Close-up
Detail \u2013 Saavira Kambada Basadi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n
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\"Close-up
Shantinatha Swamy shrine in the Ammanavara Basadi, one of the oldest in the region. The goddess shrine was closed.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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\"The
Saavira Kambada Basadi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

Jainism is a non theistic religion that broke away from the rituals of Vedic Hinduism even before the birth of the Buddha. It was born in the Gangetic plains of North India but moved westward with Hindu resurgence and then south along with migrants fleeing famine as early as 300BC. <\/p>\n

The most prominent of these Jain temples \u2013 referred to locally as basadis \u2013 is the Chandranatha Basadi or the Saavira Kambhada Basadi (Thousand Pillar Shrine) in the heart of Moodbidri. I am partial to the simplicity of local Jain architecture \u2013 borrowed from the spare southern aesthetic \u2013 as opposed to the grand marble Jain edifices of the north. But they all seemed forlorn and neglected this time, far removed from our memories of lively celebrations with Jain friends.<\/p>\n

The presence of a lovely resort high on a hill and a concentration of Jain sites in the vicinity makes Moodbidri a great base to explore Dakshina Kannada (district) from. Mangalore airport is under an hour away by road. <\/p>\n

Karkala: More Jain heritage, many sadly shuttered due to the pandemic<\/h2>\n
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Close-up of feet of the gigantic Gomateshwara monolith.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n
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\"Panoramic
The Chaturmukha Basadi from the Gommateshwara Hill<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

The star attraction in Karkala is the 42\u2032 high 14th century monolith of Gommateshwara: one of the sons of the first Jain Thirthankara (teacher) Rishabanath, and believed to be the first Jain monk to have attained \u2018moksha\u2019 or salvation. It is the second largest of the five Jain monoliths in Karnataka<\/a>. Access is via 200 or so steps carved into the hill or by road all the way to the top (with prior permission from the office below). <\/p>\n

The Chaturmukha (four-faced) Basadi, which was the main focus of this detour since I\u2019d never visited before, was closed. Its gate at the foot of the hill was locked so we couldn\u2019t even photograph the exterior. The caretaker was unreachable. We discovered later that he had turned off his phone since he also works as a school attendant. It was particularly disappointing since this is a listed ASI monument that can surely afford a full time caretaker. <\/p>\n

There are plenty of smaller, personal shrines that are open to the public within town as well as along connecting roads.<\/p>\n

Varanga: A most photogenic lake temple<\/h2>\n
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\"Small
Varanga Kere Basadi. Spot the priest?<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n
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\"A
View from Varanga Kere Basadi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

This enchanting Jain shrine floating dreamily in the middle of a tranquil kere (pond\/lake) in a village named Varanga has been in existence since the 12th century. I grew up in Mangalore, a mere 72km south of the village, and never knew of its existence. <\/p>\n

It took a Tweet \u2013 several decades later \u2013 showing stunning drone footage of the little basadi to pique my interest. And a pandemic to get me here.<\/p>\n

This is another Chaturmukha shrine with stone idols of four Jain Tirthankaras facing each cardinal direction. The priest lives on the south bank and rows himself to the temple to perform rituals at specific times. Visitors are ferried in from the eastern bank for a fee payable at the office within the Matada Basadi on the edge of a field, barren at the time. <\/p>\n

It was a special morning<\/a>, just the four of us gliding silently towards the temple on a boat propelled by a pole and witnessing what felt like an intimate, private ritual. The even older Matada Basadi on the mainland \u2013 worth visiting from all accounts \u2013 was closed. <\/p>\n

Hiriyadka: Serendipitous (re)connection with the gods of our ancestors!<\/h2>\n
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\"Side
Veerabhadraswamy Temple, Hiriadka<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n
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\"Veerabhadraswamy
Wooden banana blossom \u2018thorans\u2019 dangle from the eaves all around the main shrine!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

It occurred to us, just as we were leaving Varanga, that the route we had picked passed close to our ancestral village. Our wing of the ancient house does not exist anymore but Google confirmed that the family temple \u2013 Shree Veerabhadraswamy Temple \u2013 was right along our route to Udupi. So we stopped. And prayed for our ancestors living and dead and for generations yet to be born, certain in our minds that it was mum\u2019s invisible hand that had steered us here. <\/p>\n

All members of the family are expected to mark attendance here (at least) before weddings and to \u2018present\u2019 new borns. My last visit was just before our daughter got married. Mum was around, I wasn\u2019t given a choice. My niece did bring her new born \u2013 they\u2019d gathered to photograph five generations of first born daughters! \u2013 but failed to do so before her wedding last Jan. My grandchildren are yet to visit Mangalore let alone this temple. <\/p>\n

It was a delight to find the temple beautifully restored. The metal roof gleamed in the afternoon light. The stone work was precise. The banana blossom shaped \u2018thorans\u2019 exquisitely crafted. <\/p>\n

Brownie points in Heaven scored, we set off for Hasta Shilpa in Manipal followed by lunch in Thimmappa \u2018Hotel\u2019 (for non Indian readers, the word restaurant does not exist in the Indian lexicon) that did not disappoint. A basic (foolhardy?) meal in our first crowded, closed eatery in over two years. Our fingers were firmly crossed as we devoured our seafood.<\/p>\n

Hasta Shilpa: Homage to our fast disappearing built heritage<\/h2>\n
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Miyar House: First of the 26 structures in the Hasta Shilpa Museum Complex.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n
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Mudhol Palace, Hastha Shilpa Museum Complex<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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Pre-Vedic folk deities. Wish I could lay my hands on a couple of these statuettes.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n
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Barber\u2019s shop along a village street mock-up.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

The remarkable Mr. Vijayanath Shenoy\u2019s passion for the conservation of vernacular architecture led to the establishment of this very special open air museum<\/a> in 1997. It showcases 22 characteristic buildings from across the region ranging from simple homes to durbar halls of palaces along with traditional shopfronts and indigenous craft museums. All painstakingly re-erected on a six acre property that is absolute joy to walk through. <\/p>\n

Gokarna: Breather in a temple town by the sea<\/h2>\n

Apart from early starts on several consecutive days in order to avoid crowds, this was a leisurely trip with journey times rarely exceeding four hours. We still factored in two free days. And what better place to catch our breaths than a wellness resort beside a beach named Om<\/em>? <\/p>\n

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Meditation on Om Beach just steps from CGH Earth-Swaswara<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n
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Koti Tirtha, Gokarna What\u2019s an Indian temple town without a sacred pond? Or cows?<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n
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A traditional Brahmin house in Gokarna.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

Gokarna Town, situated as it is at the confluence of two rivers and the Arabian sea, is considered a sacred spot to conduct the last rites of the dead. It feels quite like Varanasi, even if the vibe is less intense, and is nearly as photogenic (with narrow winding lanes that we foolishly attempted navigating in my niece\u2019s Land Rover!). We failed, however, to connect with the sacred. Again.<\/a> Possibly because we carried the baggage of overwhelming hassle from past visits to immerse the ashes of our grandfather and father. <\/p>\n

But the pristine coastline of Gokarna is the finest you\u2019ll find anywhere. The reason it\u2019s been a haven for backpackers escaping the high costs and heaving beaches of Goa. And our wellness resort was all peace and quietude<\/a>. (Details below).<\/p>\n

And finally, Goa! <\/h2>\n

What can I say about Goa \u2013 the erstwhile capital of Portugal\u2019s Oriental Empire \u2013 that hasn\u2019t already been said? We\u2019ve been there countless times before with our extended families when we\u2019d only eat, drink and hang around beaches on a loop. On this visit, we took time off from the eating and drinking to explore Goa\u2019s colonial and Goud Saraswat legacies.<\/p>\n

Highlights include an early morning stroll through the vividly painted streets of Fountainhas in Panjim to connect with Goa\u2019s Portuguese heart; a guided walk through Velha Goa<\/a> and its many beautiful churches; a whole day dedicated to opulent Indo Portuguese mansions, chief among them the Figueiredo House<\/a> built by jesuit priests for a freshly converted local family that took on the Portuguese name and Pal\u00e1cio do De\u00e3o in Quepem, painstakingly restored based on drawings belonging to the original owner, a priest from Braga; and the Mahalasa Narayani and Laxmi Narasimha temples among the eclectic Hindu shrines we visited in Ponda.<\/p>\n

I only regret not being able to fit in the ancient Mahadev Temple in Tambdi Surla before Ravi and I decamped to a charming resort by the sea<\/a> after which sightseeing was the last thing on our minds. <\/p>\n

\"Panoramic
Panoramic view of old Goa from the Chiurch of Our Lady of The Mount.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n
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The gorgeously restored Figueiredo Mansion. The forsaken colonial home next door is a striking contrast.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n
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Garden of Pal\u00e1cio do De\u00e3o. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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Detail, Mahalasa Narayani Temple<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n
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\"Beach<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n
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TRAVEL TIPS<\/h2>\n
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TRIP LOGISTICS<\/h2>\n

We flew in from Chennai to Bangalore and out of Goa. You could fly direct to Mangalore if you intend to focus on the coast alone. Or hop on to the new Vistadome train from Bangalore.<\/p>\n

Bangalore to Belur: 219 km, approx. 4.30hrs\u00a0by road via NH 75. The brief detour to Shettihalli Rosary Church took just over an hour more. Mallika & Sahana (they joined us a day later) took around the same time for a quick visit to Sravanabelagula en route. <\/p>\n

Belur to Moodbidri: 132 km, approx. 3.5 hours on NH 73 (Charmadi Ghat via Mudigere). NH 75 (Shiradi Ghat via Sakleshpur) is the most popular route from Hassan to the west coast but reports of monsoon damage led to us picking the former and we enjoyed the extremely scenic ride<\/a>. <\/p>\n

All subsequent stops on this itinerary right up to Panaji, Goa, are along the coastal highway NH 66 and directions on Google Maps are pretty accurate.<\/p>\n

Getting around is easiest with a car. It is possible, however, to reach the larger towns (along the west coast) by train or bus from (Mangalore, Bangalore or Goa) and then use taxis or auto-rickshaws (tuk-tuks) to move around locally. Do factor in notoriously pricey taxi fares when budgeting for Goa.<\/p>\n

NUMBER OF DAYS<\/h2>\n

We spent two nights in Belur. Both temples are doable in a single day. <\/p>\n

We divided our three days in Dakshina Kannada between Moodbidri & Kundapura. As mentioned before, much on our itinerary is doable from Moodbidri with two full<\/em> days. Mangalore will require a couple more days.<\/p>\n

Allow at least two nights to experience Gokarna\u2019s beaches. We stopped briefly at Murudeshwar temple on the way in and visited Gokarna town and Mirjan fort in a single morning. <\/p>\n

Goa has enough to keep you occupied for days on end. We had five. I\u2019m dreaming of returning for a whole monsoon week.<\/p>\n

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