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When you imagine the grape harvest, what do you see?<\/p>\n
Green vines jewelled with clusters of plump golden grapes, planted in long rows bordered with grasses and wildflowers? Perhaps the scene is lit by warm rays of sunshine; a few men and women might be laughing and talking as they fill wicker baskets with ripe fruit, about to pause for lunch at a table covered with a red and white cloth laid with baguettes, cheese, a few chilled bottles of ros\u00e9\u2026<\/p>\n
Drinkers and the wine trade \u201chave long seen harvest time as a cross between a harvest f\u00eate and a garden party\u201d, says Anne Jones, sustainability consultant at Limestone and Jones. Wine is sold on storytelling, often involving pastoral scenes like the one I\u2019ve painted above. Ten years ago, talk of diverse ecosystems and biodynamics might have been considered woo-woo, but greater awareness of environmental sustainability has seen producers and wine writers leaning into descriptions of cover crops, healthy soils, and \u201cvineyard helpers\u201d in the form of ducks and sheep. Promoting sustainable winemaking is important \u2013 existentially so \u2013 but the stories we\u2019re telling ourselves and others are missing a crucial chapter: the human cost of wine production.<\/p>\n
According to Jones, \u201cwe need to move away from thinking about wine as just bucolic: we need to start talking about carbon capture and labour and all the dirty industrial stuff.\u201d With an increasing number of viticulture-related human rights abuses being reported in the media, we simply cannot ignore these \u201cdirty\u201d topics any longer, and The Wine Society is leading by example.<\/p>\n
On a grey Thursday in late May, they hosted a panel discussion chaired by the Sustainable Wine Roundtable\u2019s (SWT) Dr Peter Stanbury, including 12 representatives from wineries, retailers, labour providers, NGOs, issue specialists, distributors, and certification schemes. Stanbury described the purpose of the event in humble terms: \u201cWe don\u2019t have all the answers \u2013 we don\u2019t, in fact, have many answers at all. We are here to at least start talking about it\u201d.<\/p>\n
This need to \u201cat least start talking\u201d was echoed around the panel. According to Jantine Werdmuller von Elgg, co-CEO of Stronger Together: change \u201cstarts with awareness: only when we start talking about this topic as something that is happening \u2013 and recognise that it is happening to all of us \u2013 can we start looking at what these challenges actually look like.\u201d<\/p>\n
And it really does affect all of us. Quoting UK minister Jess Phillips, Werdmuller von Elgg emphasised that \u201cmodern slavery is so prevalent that if businesses are not identifying risks, they are probably not looking hard enough\u201d: all wine businesses, from big multi-nationals to small growers \u2013 even self-employed writers like me \u2013 are implicated in one way or another.<\/p>\n
The problem, according to Jones, is that nobody wants to be the person responsible for social responsibility. She explained that Wine GB is working towards adding a social element to their sustainable certification scheme, but winery employees \u201cfeel very concerned about being the person responsible [\u2026] they know who will fill in the boxes on environmental standards, but who fills them in on the social side? It is a very lonely place to be.\u201d<\/p>\n
Allan Sichel, president of the Bordeaux industrial body CIVIB, shared that producers are feeling \u201coverwhelmed\u201d. Drinkers are starting to expect environmental certifications, which come with a whole host of challenges and risks, and social responsibility brings additional legal complexities that can be daunting for small growers \u2013 an issue exacerbated by a general reluctance towards talking openly about the subject. \u201cLabour laws in France are so strict we thought we were well protected\u201d Sichel said, explaining that many producers in Bordeaux had been unaware of their obligations to temporary workers before reports of vineyard worker exploitation came to light. \u201cIf you work with a labour supplier [\u2026] you still have to ensure legal wages, fair treatment, access to welfare and medical care \u2013 we need to raise awareness about these obligations.\u201d<\/p>\n
A veil of silence seems to hang over the issue of social responsibility, which has left the burden of speaking out to whistle-blowers and the press \u2013 a backdoor approach that has nevertheless yielded positive results. Sichel shared that, in Bordeaux, media reporting inspired the state, producers, and labour providers to come together for the first time to share the issues they were facing \u2013 a productive dialogue that ultimately resulted in them co-authoring a charter to protect temporary workers.<\/p>\n
James Macdonald, Senior Winemaker at Hunter\u2019s Wines, added that New Zealand\u2019s Recognised Seasonal Employer programme was devised in 2007 following \u201ca lot of bad press\u201d about the mistreatment of temporary workers. The scheme now provides quality accommodation, controls over working hours, and a living wage for harvest workers. \u201cThe rate of return is above 90%\u201d, he said, \u201cpeople want to come to New Zealand and be part of this scheme.\u201d<\/p>\n
Bad press is a powerful motivator, it seems, but Werdmuller von Elgg stressed the importance of being \u201cproactive, not reactive\u201d. To do this, she said, it is very important not to silo those responsible: \u201cthe top people in organisations must be involved [\u2026] and companies need to have the confidence to be honest about any issues they find.\u201d Without this reassurance, the temptation to turn a blind eye and hope for the best may be too strong for some.<\/p>\n
Confidence comes from collaboration and compassion. Lukas M\u00fcller from Fair and Green, a sustainable certification integrating both environmental and social responsibility, called for more empathy for winegrowers: \u201cwe expect a lot from winery owners [\u2026] we are not there to check they are doing everything right, we are there to support them.\u201d Fair and Green and Stronger Together have resources available for businesses looking to analyse and improve their supply chains, and many on the panel stressed the importance of collaborating with NGOs, but also with fellow producers, regional bodies, and the state. There\u2019s a lot of help available, once people feel empowered to take it.<\/p>\n
But the onus doesn\u2019t just fall on producers: according to the panel, distributors, journalists, and consumers need to start talking, looking, and doing too. Daniel Hart, Director of Commerce at Hatch Mansfield, suggested the trade and press work together to devise and communicate a \u201cfair price\u201d for wine \u2013 a benchmark to reassure people they are buying an ethical product. \u201cIn the UK, the average price for a bottle of wine from South Africa [one of the biggest risk countries] is \u00a35.50, including 80% tax\u201d; drinkers need to understand that, like fast fashion, it\u2019s virtually impossible to produce a socially responsible wine at this price point, and it\u2019s up to the trade and journalists to explain why.<\/p>\n
It\u2019s time for us to start telling new stories about wine \u2013about carbon, labour, and industry \u2013 but they don\u2019t all need to be \u201cdirty\u201d. Peter Stanbury stressed at the beginning of the panel that journalism\u2019s role needs to be \u201cproductive\u201d; positive stories about environmental sustainability have brought us to a place where nature-first winemaking is widely discussed and, in many spheres, expected. I see no reason why similar stories about social sustainability \u2013 compassionate stories about producers who have looked, found, and acted \u2013 cannot do the same.<\/p>\n
This was the first in a series of events The Wine Society plans to host on social responsibility. They have stuck their head over the proverbial parapet, now is the time for everyone else to follow.<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
When you imagine the grape harvest, what do you see? Green vines jewelled with clusters of plump golden grapes, planted in long rows bordered with grasses and wildflowers? Perhaps the scene is lit by warm rays of sunshine; a few men and women might be laughing and talking as they fill wicker baskets with ripe […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":279346,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[49798,2054,3968,1115,6832,9182],"dealstore":[],"offerexpiration":[],"class_list":["post-279345","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-uncategorized","tag-atkin","tag-dirty","tag-master","tag-stuff","tag-tim","tag-wine"],"yoast_head":"\n
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