{"id":260562,"date":"2025-05-27T22:30:38","date_gmt":"2025-05-27T22:30:38","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/peraltafinancing.com\/anthropology\/buzzy-bottles-sound-and-sociality-in-georgian-wine\/"},"modified":"2025-05-27T22:30:38","modified_gmt":"2025-05-27T22:30:38","slug":"buzzy-bottles-sound-and-sociality-in-georgian-wine","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/fivemor.com\/?p=260562","title":{"rendered":"Buzzy Bottles: Sound and Sociality in Georgian Wine"},"content":{"rendered":"<p> <br \/>\n<\/p>\n<p>In 2017, I was working a busy shift at a Mediterranean-fusion restaurant in downtown Chicago when my friend messaged me: \u201cI\u2019m going to do a two-week trip to the Caucasus; you have some knowledge of the region and Russian language\u2026 any tips or things I should know before I go?\u201d<\/p>\n<p>I was on the floor, managing the front of the house and the buzz of a full dining room\u2014glasses clinking, customers chatting, servers laughing over a crass joke while placing an order, the chef calling out \u201cBONE MARROW, TABLE 12\u201d\u2014became a meditative state. The flow of the restaurant brought me back to a recent tasting of Georgian wines, my first interaction with them since living in Russia five years prior.&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>\u201cYeah, what if I quit my job and join you?\u201d&nbsp;<\/p>\n<figure class=\"wp-block-audio\"><audio controls src=\"https:\/\/www.anthropology-news.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Audio-1-Industry.m4a\"><\/audio><\/figure>\n<div class=\"uk-grid uk-grid-collapse uk-position-relative article-image-container\">\n<div>\n<div class=\"article-content-wrap article-content-wrap-2\">\n<div class=\"article-image-wrap\">\n<div class=\"article-image-title uk-text-uppercase uk-text-italic\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<span>Credit: <\/span><br \/>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<span>Rowan Twine<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n<p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" width=\"856\" height=\"1284\" src=\"https:\/\/www.anthropology-news.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Image-1-WINE-113ef29a9437ec1b1981dc68a99fe06e-856x1284.jpg\" class=\"attachment-inline_photo size-inline_photo\" alt=\"A glass of wine sits on a table with food. In the background is a person wearing a sweatshirt that reads, \u201cWINE.\u201d\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n<div class=\"figure-credits\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\tA glass of Georgian wine can start any conversation; western Georgian region of Imereti, September 2024.\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<p>I spent the summers of 2018 and 2019 intensively studying the Georgian language and, eventually, culture through long-form interviews and long-term fieldwork, often filled with fraught communication. Helping with grape harvest in the western region of Racha, I frequently replaced the word\u00a0<em>q\u2019uti<\/em> (\u10e7\u10e3\u10d7\u10d8), crate, with\u00a0<em>k\u2019utkhe<\/em> (\u10d9\u10e3\u10d7\u10ee\u10d4), corner; not to be confused with the number five,\u00a0<em>khuti<\/em> (\u10ee\u10e3\u10d7\u10d8). And, not to be even more jumbled with<em>\u00a0k\u2019udurauli<\/em> (\u10d9\u10e3\u10d3\u10e3\u10e0\u10d0\u10e3\u10da\u10d8), a rare grape that popped up amongst the vines.\u00a0<\/p>\n<figure class=\"wp-block-audio\"><audio controls src=\"https:\/\/www.anthropology-news.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Audio-2-Levans-Harvest.m4a\"><\/audio><\/figure>\n<div class=\"uk-grid uk-grid-collapse uk-position-relative article-image-container\">\n<div>\n<div class=\"article-content-wrap article-content-wrap-2\">\n<div class=\"article-image-wrap\">\n<div class=\"article-image-title uk-text-uppercase uk-text-italic\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<span>Credit: <\/span><br \/>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<span>Rowan Twine<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n<p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" width=\"856\" height=\"571\" src=\"https:\/\/www.anthropology-news.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Image-2-Levan_s-Harvest-885d9d7e77e98bc31e42662aeedbfd29-856x571.jpg\" class=\"attachment-inline_photo size-inline_photo\" alt=\"Two people move crates of grapes into a vehicle after harvest.\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n<div class=\"figure-credits\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\tMoving crates of Rachuli Tetra and K\u2019udurauli after harvest in the western Georgian region of Racha, September 2024\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<p>My project, then, which examines the politics of Georgian wine production, was also an exercise in communication. Working in wine, many of my interviews would take place in the vineyard. In my recordings, speech is often intermingled with human footsteps crunching on the grass, the wind whipping through the valley, or the rustling of hands touching vines. Over the three years I would spend conducting fieldwork in Georgia, I learned to embrace the noises of the natural environment and experience these interferences alongside my interlocutors who see the vineyard as a place of peacefulness, freedom, and quietness.&nbsp;<\/p>\n<figure class=\"wp-block-audio\"><audio controls src=\"https:\/\/www.anthropology-news.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Audio-3-Interview-in-Vineyard.m4a\"><\/audio><\/figure>\n<div class=\"uk-grid uk-grid-collapse uk-position-relative article-image-container\">\n<div>\n<div class=\"article-content-wrap article-content-wrap-2\">\n<div class=\"article-image-wrap\">\n<div class=\"article-image-title uk-text-uppercase uk-text-italic\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<span>Credit: <\/span><br \/>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<span>Rowan Twine<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n<p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" width=\"856\" height=\"571\" src=\"https:\/\/www.anthropology-news.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Image-3-Interview-in-Vineyard-9f51070f9f04cfe588e904b67a311527-856x571.jpg\" class=\"attachment-inline_photo size-inline_photo\" alt=\"Two people discuss the vines and grapes in western Georgia.\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n<div class=\"figure-credits\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\tDiscussing vineyard practices and livelihoods in the western Georgian region of Imereti, April 2024.\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<p>In Kakheti, Georgia\u2019s predominant wine region, I helped harvest alongside a local brigade employed annually to pick grapes. The women I worked next to moved swiftly, pulling aside the grape leaves with their hands and quickly snipping grape bunches into baskets, calling \u201c<em>VEDRO VEDRO<\/em>\u201d (\u10d5\u10d4\u10d3\u10e0\u10dd), \u201cbucket, bucket!\u201d when theirs was full. What took them five minutes took me fifteen;&nbsp;<em>khutmeti,&nbsp;<\/em>not&nbsp;<em>khuti<\/em>. In the meantime, they would ask about American culture\u2014<em>What perfumes do we like? How is the food?<\/em>\u2014while telling me about how pruning is vital for grapevine health, or what their labor looked like during harvest seasons. The fuzziness of these communicative boundaries\u2014shifting between current-day materiality and the ecological nuances of viticulture\u2014is part and parcel of sharing knowledge. In understanding these harvesters\u2019 livelihoods and existences, learning about pruning cannot be detached from discussing perfume and American food.&nbsp;<\/p>\n<figure class=\"wp-block-audio\"><audio controls src=\"https:\/\/www.anthropology-news.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Audio-4-Vedro.m4a\"><\/audio><\/figure>\n<div class=\"uk-grid uk-grid-collapse uk-position-relative article-image-container\">\n<div>\n<div class=\"article-content-wrap article-content-wrap-2\">\n<div class=\"article-image-wrap\">\n<div class=\"article-image-title uk-text-uppercase uk-text-italic\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<span>Credit: <\/span><br \/>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<span>Rowan Twine<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n<p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" width=\"856\" height=\"571\" src=\"https:\/\/www.anthropology-news.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Image-4-Vedro-5f598155cccad38ba7429b8f39673892-856x571.jpg\" class=\"attachment-inline_photo size-inline_photo\" alt=\"A woman makes a funny face as she harvests grapes. Another woman laughs in the background.\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n<div class=\"figure-credits\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\tHarvesting grapes in Kakheti, September 2024.\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Fieldwork also took place in the&nbsp;<em>marani<\/em>\u2014winery, or cellar, in Georgian\u2014where noise signals wine being made: the generator&#8217;s hum, pop music blaring in the background, the voices calling to one another: \u201cMove that hose here!\u201d \u201cCan you spray the press?\u201d \u201c<em>Gacherdi<\/em>!\u201d (\u10d2\u10d0\u10e9\u10d4\u10e0\u10d3\u10d8) \u201cSTOP!\u201d as pressed juice fills the stainless-steel tank. I help with various tasks, sorting grapes, hand-pressing, and pumping juice; I worry I might have misunderstood a command, possibly compromising the winemaking process. Yet, late into the night, when all the grapes have been pressed, and the baby wines are in their new vessels, bottles are opened, cheersing to a successful day of hard work.&nbsp;<\/p>\n<figure class=\"wp-block-audio\"><audio controls src=\"https:\/\/www.anthropology-news.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Audio-5-Press.m4a\"><\/audio><\/figure>\n<div class=\"uk-grid uk-grid-collapse uk-position-relative article-image-container\">\n<div>\n<div class=\"article-content-wrap article-content-wrap-2\">\n<div class=\"article-image-wrap\">\n<div class=\"article-image-title uk-text-uppercase uk-text-italic\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<span>Credit: <\/span><br \/>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<span>Rowan Twine<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n<p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" width=\"856\" height=\"1284\" src=\"https:\/\/www.anthropology-news.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Image-5-Press-76cea144808920e23f196945dc95c97f-856x1284.jpg\" class=\"attachment-inline_photo size-inline_photo\" alt=\"Two women examine grapes over a bucket. Large bags of grapes are in the background.\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n<div class=\"figure-credits\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\tSorting the rare grape Vardisperi Rkatsiteli before hand-pressing; Tbilisi, September 2024.\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<p>I conducted interviews in these same maranis, frequently accompanied by my interlocutors\u2019 friends or my travel companions. The noise would echo off the stainless-steel vessels, the marani enclosing our voices and movements into a compact space. In many of these moments, I was tasked with translating, creating an even fuzzier boundary between me as the researcher, the interpreter, and the guest.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"wp-block-audio\"><audio controls src=\"https:\/\/www.anthropology-news.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Audio-6-Marani-Echo.m4a\"><\/audio><\/figure>\n<div class=\"uk-grid uk-grid-collapse uk-position-relative article-image-container\">\n<div>\n<div class=\"article-content-wrap article-content-wrap-2\">\n<div class=\"article-image-wrap\">\n<div class=\"article-image-title uk-text-uppercase uk-text-italic\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<span>Credit: <\/span><br \/>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<span>Rowan Twine<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n<p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" width=\"856\" height=\"571\" src=\"https:\/\/www.anthropology-news.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Image-6-Marani-Echo-8acbe80336a8e73b29eea5aa78f20405-856x571.jpg\" class=\"attachment-inline_photo size-inline_photo\" alt=\"Two women laugh in the winery while one holds her phone and the other a glass of red wine. Wine glasses and bottles are on the table. Large stainless-steel tanks line the back wall.\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n<div class=\"figure-credits\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\tSharing stories in echoey maranis in Kakheti, November 2023.\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<p>But the marani, and wine itself, is a social tool. The intimacy of the marani and the work that wine does allows for stories to penetrate the boundaries of communication. In the marani, there are signals of closeness: remnants of family histories, stories of struggles with winemaking, and the opportunity to share the fruit of their labor. The marani\u2019s intimacy signals a decades-long or even centuries-long relationship with wine, a place to talk about career transitions, winemaking ideologies, takes on politics, and dreams for their wine businesses.&nbsp;<\/p>\n<figure class=\"wp-block-audio\"><audio controls src=\"https:\/\/www.anthropology-news.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Audio-7-Conversations.m4a\"><\/audio><\/figure>\n<div class=\"uk-grid uk-grid-collapse uk-position-relative article-image-container\">\n<div>\n<div class=\"article-content-wrap article-content-wrap-2\">\n<div class=\"article-image-wrap\">\n<div class=\"article-image-title uk-text-uppercase uk-text-italic\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<span>Credit: <\/span><br \/>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<span>Rowan Twine<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n<p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" width=\"856\" height=\"571\" src=\"https:\/\/www.anthropology-news.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Image-7-Conversations-5191ad4a4a993fcd3ab5b1e4ee0f76a4-856x571.jpg\" class=\"attachment-inline_photo size-inline_photo\" alt=\"Two women with lively expressions on their faces are conversing.\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n<div class=\"figure-credits\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\tDiscussing our love for Georgian wine in Kakheti, November 2023.\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<p>At other times, I recorded wine tastings I attended to concentrate on the experience. Often, these tastings embodied a cacophony of sounds: tableware clinking, the humdrum of personal conversations, phones ringing, and background music further stifling the ability to hear. As more wine is poured, voices are magnified, and in these moments, conversations often revolve around winemaking and Georgian identity, crucial topics for my research. I remember one wine festival in the winter of 2023. The room was packed with patrons; everyone had to squeeze past each other to reach the next table and taste wines. Conversation roared over the full-ensemble Georgian band playing on the stage. I ran into an American wine consultant and lamented to her: \u201cIt\u2019s so loud and crowded in here!\u201d \u201cBut we love to see it this way,\u201d she responded, \u201cIt means people are enjoying the wine!\u201d Noise signaled the success of the popularity of Georgian wine.<\/p>\n<figure class=\"wp-block-audio\"><audio controls src=\"https:\/\/www.anthropology-news.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Audio-8-Supra.m4a\"><\/audio><\/figure>\n<div class=\"uk-grid uk-grid-collapse uk-position-relative article-image-container\">\n<div>\n<div class=\"article-content-wrap article-content-wrap-2\">\n<div class=\"article-image-wrap\">\n<div class=\"article-image-title uk-text-uppercase uk-text-italic\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<span>Credit: <\/span><br \/>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<span>Rowan Twine<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n<p>\t\t\t\t\t\t<img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" width=\"856\" height=\"571\" src=\"https:\/\/www.anthropology-news.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/05\/Image-8-Supra-fe28eb79c0fa0d308e892d5366f0d3f2-856x571.jpg\" class=\"attachment-inline_photo size-inline_photo\" alt=\"People sit at a table filled with food and wine.\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/p>\n<div class=\"figure-credits\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\tBuilding relationships at a supra, or feast; Tbilisi, April 2024.\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<\/p><\/div>\n<p>It&#8217;s hard to argue that wine&nbsp;<em>doesn\u2019t<\/em>&nbsp;ameliorate the fuzziness of communicative boundaries. Wine festivals, tastings, and social events, especially in Georgia, while full of noise, are vehicles for social bonding and relationship building. As an anthropologist, I needed to come to terms with the uncertainty of noise in my linguistic abilities and field materials. Yet, as a human being, the noise signaled that I was communicating and creating certainty and meaning in my social relationships.&nbsp;&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><em>All images courtesy of Rowan Twine (<a href=\"https:\/\/rowantwine.com\/\">https:\/\/rowantwine.com\/<\/a>)<\/em>.<\/p>\n<p><em>Ariana Gunderson is the section contributing editor for the Society for the Anthropology of Food and Nutrition<\/em>.<\/p>\n<p>The post <a href=\"https:\/\/www.anthropology-news.org\/articles\/buzzy-bottles-sound-and-sociality-in-georgian-wine\/\">Buzzy Bottles: Sound and Sociality in Georgian Wine<\/a> appeared first on <a href=\"https:\/\/www.anthropology-news.org\">Anthropology News<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>In 2017, I was working a busy shift at a Mediterranean-fusion restaurant in downtown Chicago when my friend messaged me: \u201cI\u2019m going to do a two-week trip to the Caucasus; you have some knowledge of the region and Russian language\u2026 any tips or things I should know before I go?\u201d I was on the floor, [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":260563,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[11767],"tags":[5037,33775,63242,48767,2656,9182],"dealstore":[],"offerexpiration":[],"class_list":["post-260562","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-anthropology","tag-bottles","tag-buzzy","tag-georgian","tag-sociality","tag-sound","tag-wine"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v26.4 - 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