\n<\/p>\n
\n 7 May 2025 <\/time>\n<\/p>\n<\/header>\n\nAfter nomad-ing around Italy for three consecutive years \u2013 starting in Lucca (Tuscany)<\/a>, then Sardinia<\/a>, and now Sicily \u2013 I\u2019ve come to expect three things from Italian life: excellent food, plentiful opportunities for aperitivo, and a warm welcome for my diminutive dog. Ortigia, a tiny island dangling off the southeastern tip of Sicily, delivered on all of the above.<\/pullout>\n\u00a0<\/p>\n\nTechnically part of the city of Siracusa, Ortigia is barely a kilometre in length (I jogged around the whole island in half an hour), and yet it has a distinct character of its own. Crumbling Baroque balconies, ancient Greek ruins and \u2013 of course \u2013 lots and lots of restaurants. The menus tend to be variations on a theme: traditional Sicilian pasta dishes, plenty of seafood and the ever-present cannolo for dessert. So choosing where to eat often comes down to the atmosphere more than the food: sea view or city street, linen tablecloths or plastic chairs, a glass of Etna wine or a Negroni Sbagliato.\n \n<\/center><\/div>\n \n <\/p>\nWe stayed in the Jewish Quarter (Giudecca), a slightly quieter pocket of the island that I quickly warmed to. It\u2019s less frenetic than the restaurant gauntlet of Via Cavour, but still full of foodie finds \u2013 we rarely walked more than a few paces without stumbling across a wine bar or trattoria.<\/p>\nWhat to eat in Ortigia, Sicily<\/strong><\/h2>\nBeing an island, it\u2019s no surprise that Ortigia\u2019s cuisine leans heavily on fish and seafood \u2013 with the fresh swordfish and tuna being my particular favourites. In Siracusa specifically, you\u2019ll often see spaghetti alla Siracusana<\/em> on the menu: a punchy pasta dish with tomato, anchovy, capers and olives. There\u2019s also penne alla Norma<\/em> \u2013 a Sicilian classic of aubergine, tomato, basil and ricotta salata \u2013 <\/em>as well as pasta with pistachio pesto and prawns (pistachios are cultivated on the island and you see them on absolutely everything!).<\/p>\nFor ingredients, you can\u2019t beat Ortigia Market<\/a> \u2013 made up of a dozen or so colourful stalls and lots of people yelling in Italian (with a Sicilian accent, I presume). I picked up fresh fish and seasonal vegetables like cime di rapa<\/em> (related to broccoli) and tenerumi<\/em> (the leaves and vines of a type of courgette) to cook at our apartment.<\/p>\nThe Sicilians put pistachio on everything from pasta to cannoli!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nIn terms of street food, arancini<\/em> (deep-fried rice balls stuffed with rag\u00f9, mozzarella, etc.) are everywhere, as are scacciate<\/em> (Sicilian stuffed flatbreads) and vota vota<\/em> (somewhat similar but long and rectangular). As you can imagine, my lunches were frequently quick and carb-fuelled. But when you\u2019re feeling in need of some veggies, caponata<\/em> \u2013 a sweet-and-savoury aubergine-based stew \u2013 is a deliciously tangy side dish sold everywhere.<\/p>\nFor those with a sweet tooth, cannoli are ubiquitous, as is granita: a sort of flavoured slushie. I started to do a little research on these, but couldn\u2019t take the sugar crashes that followed. Too sweet for me, but there are plenty of other websites out there extolling the best cannoli and granita in Ortigia!<\/p>\nTransport to, from and around Ortigia Island and Siracusa<\/strong><\/h2>\nBefore you can start eating, you\u2019re going to need to get to southeast Sicily. The closest airport to Siracusa is Catania, served by several international airlines including ITA Airways<\/a>, KLM<\/a>, Delta<\/a>, Lufthansa<\/a> and British Airways<\/a>, as well as low-cost carriers like Ryanair<\/a> and easyJet<\/a>. You can compare times and prices among all airlines on sites like\u00a0Skyscanner<\/a>,\u00a0Expedia<\/a>\u00a0and\u00a0Omio<\/a>.<\/p>\nFrom Catania, you can either catch a direct bus to Siracusa with Interbus<\/a>; hop on a regional train with Trenitalia<\/a>; or rent a car<\/a> if you plan to explore beyond the city. From Siracusa bus or train station, you can walk to Ortigia or take a taxi. Once on the island, you won\u2019t need a car \u2013 the whole island is walkable, and in fact, much of it is restricted to pedestrians anyway.<\/p>\nMy favourite Ortigia restaurants<\/strong><\/h2>\nI expected a few tourist traps, but it\u2019s relatively hard to get a bad meal in Ortigia. I could include 80% of the places I ate in this guide, so instead I just decided to focus down on a couple of my top recommendations for each category: pasta, seafood, street food, pizza, wine bars and aperitivo spots.<\/p>\nPerfect pasta in Ortigia<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nJobi<\/strong><\/h4>\nWe landed at Ristorante Jobi<\/a> for our first dinner on the island, mostly because it was late and this happened to be close to our apartment. But Jobi deserves a spot on this list for its penne alla Norma<\/em>, which was everything I wanted from the dish: silky, yielding aubergine; sweet-tart tomato sauce; and that toothsome, salty tang from the ricotta salata<\/em>. Service was warm and welcoming \u2013 we got a wave every time we passed by afterwards.<\/p>\nPerfect penne alla Norma at Jobi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nColaPasta<\/strong><\/h4>\nA pick-your-pasta, pick-your-sauce spot that\u2019s more casual than your average Sicilian trattoria: the placemats and plates may be paper, but the pasta is perfect. I loved ColaPasta<\/a>\u2019s casarecce<\/em> with fennel and anchovy pesto, especially paired with a crisp glass of organic Grillo. Bonus points for friendly service and a shady terrace where we managed to bag an extra table despite a full house.<\/p>\nCasarecce<\/em> with fennel and anchovy pesto at ColaPasta<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nFish and seafood restaurants on Ortigia Island<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nRistorante La Medusa<\/strong><\/h4>\nIf it\u2019s good enough for Whoopi Goldberg, it\u2019s good enough for me! Apparently Ms Goldberg (who has a house on the island) is a regular at La Medusa<\/a>, and since we spotted her out for a wander one day we thought we\u2019d follow in her footsteps to her local fish restaurant. We started with some excellent octopus salad and smoked fish three ways (salmon, swordfish and tuna), followed by grilled swordfish and various pasta dishes. My favourite went off menu: we saw a white haired gentleman eating a plate of linguine with clams, shrimp, mussels and razor clams with a brothy, parsley-laden sauce. My husband said: \u201cI\u2019ll have what he\u2019s having\u201d and we declared it to be the best dish of the night.<\/p>\nSmoked fish at La Medusa<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nSpizzuliamu<\/strong><\/h4>\nBuried in the maze of ultra-touristy streets, I didn\u2019t have hugely high hopes for Spizzuliamu<\/a>. But needless to say, it surprised me. The menu features more fish and seafood than anything else (although a few other dishes are available) and we ordered the mussels plus a couple of primi<\/em>. I was a particular fan of their trofie<\/em> (a type of pasta) with swordfish, aubergine and mint. The fish was fantastic, the sauce silky, and the mint lifted the dish with a freshness to cut through the oily base. Delicious with a glass of Grillo.<\/p>\nTrofie with swordfish, aubergine and mint at Spizzuliamu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nSicilian street food<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nCaseificio Borderi<\/strong><\/h4>\nRight by Ortigia Market, this legendary sandwich shop makes for great people-watching while you wait for a panino<\/em> that\u2019s so big you could easily split one between two. I went for Caseificio Borderi<\/a>\u2019s smoked prosciutto with mozzarella, olives and sun-dried tomatoes, which was so generously filled that I ended up sneaking slivers of prosciutto to my dog.<\/p>\nGiant sandwiches at Caseificio Borderi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nU\u2019Sicilianu<\/strong><\/h4>\nI became a regular at U\u2019Sicilianu<\/a> in the Jewish Quarter by the end of my trip, practising my (very basic) Italian with the lovely lady who works there. She serves everything from street food snacks like arancini and scacciate<\/em> to proper meals like lasagne and melanzane di Parmigiana<\/em> with grilled vegetables on the side. Generous, tasty and affordable, U\u2019Sicilianu became my favourite spot for a takeaway lunch or dinner.<\/p>\nBest pizza in Siracusa<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nPizzeria Schiticchio<\/strong><\/h4>\nSchiticchio<\/a> serves some of the best pizza I\u2019ve eaten in a long time, despite being down a very touristy pedestrian street. They offer both traditional Neapolitan pizzas and \u201cpizzas that represent the Sicilian territory\u201d (according to the menu) so of course we went for the latter. A lot of them feature yellow datterino<\/em> tomato sauce, which I can highly recommend: sweet and piquant. We ordered the Vulcanello, with spicy salami, stracciatella and a zingy chilli drizzle on top \u2013 the perfect heat level. And the Levanzo, topped with smoked mozzarella, Nebrodi<\/em> black pork (essentially fancy smoked ham), ricotta, toasted almonds and smoked olive oil. Toppings were very generous, and the pizzas were absolutely banging \u2013 especially with a glass of Etna Rosso wine.<\/p>\nSicilian-style pizzas at Schiticchio<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nPiano B<\/strong><\/h4>\nTechnically just over the bridge in mainland Siracusa, Piano B<\/a> has won various accolades for its pizza and is also part of the Slow Food movement. I particularly liked the fact that all pizzas could be made either Neapolitan-style (with pillowy, puffed-up crusts) or Roman-style (with thin & crispy crusts). So of course we ordered both! The Roman-style Parmigiana came with silky fried aubergine, buffalo mozzarella, ham and eggs, while the Neapolitan-style Margherita was simple but expertly done. We also found the perfect \u201cpizza wine\u201d: a fruity-meets-rustic Frappato-Nero d\u2019Avola blend by Cerasuolo di Vittoria.<\/p>\nWine and taglieri in Ortigia<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nA note about enotecas<\/em>: in Italy, a wine bar, a wine shop and a place where you can eat substantial snacks (i.e. dinner replacement!) are often one and the same thing \u2013 an enoteca<\/em><\/a>. All of my picks below are these kind of multi-functional wine spaces, where you can pop in for a glass or take home a bottle.<\/p>\nEvo\u00e8 Wine Bar<\/strong><\/h4>\nNext door to Jobi (see the pasta section above), Enoteca Evo\u00e8<\/a> is everything you want from a wine bar. The owner explains the wines in a way that\u2019s simple but not patronising, and there are dozens of open bottles to try \u2013 predominantly Sicilian but other regions are represented, too. And you should definitely taste some Etna wines while you\u2019re in Sicily! If you\u2019re hungry, Evo\u00e8 offers fantastic\u00a0taglieri<\/em> platters stacked with Sicilian cheeses and cured meats: highlights included donkey mortadella (yep, that\u2019s a thing), silky prosciutto, sweetly spiced porchetta and local sheep\u2019s cheese.<\/p>\nWine and taglieri at Enoteca Evo\u00e8<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nTaverna Giudecca<\/strong><\/h4>\nTiny and tucked away, Taverna Giudecca<\/a> is a simple five-table enoteca<\/em> in the Jewish Quarter. The antipasti for two could\u2019ve easily fed four: think caponata, caprese, olives and roasted vegetables on the veggie front, plus various cheeses, salami and spicy mortadella for the meat eaters. We washed it down with two different versions of Nero d\u2019Avola \u2013 one young and fruity, the other oakier and more structured \u2013 and still only paid around \u20ac25 per person.<\/p>\nAntipasti platter at Taverna Giudecca<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nEnoteca Solaria<\/strong><\/h4>\nWith a terrace that\u2019s perfect for people watching, Enoteca Solaria<\/a> has a wide selection of (mostly natural) wines by the glass \u2013 from Sicily but also further afield. I tried an Etna Bianco that was Carricante-led and reminded me of cooking apples and salted caramel, followed by a rustic Etna Rosso made from Nerello Mascalese. Snacks are simple but well executed: think bruschetta with pistachio pesto and thinly sliced lardo<\/em>. Solaria has far more wines available by the bottle, both to take home and to drink at the bar (for a \u20ac5 corkage fee).<\/p>\nCocktail bars and aperitivo hour<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nTinkit\u00e8<\/strong><\/h4>\nMy go-to local bar during our stay, I went back so many times I was on first name terms with the staff. They mix fantastic cocktails, from punchy whisky sours to citrusy margaritas to pick-me-up espresso martinis. But Tinkit\u00e8<\/a> is open pretty much all day: you can go in for a breakfast cappuccino or an afternoon snack as well. The terrace catches the afternoon sun, which was a bonus in April when temperatures weren\u2019t that high.<\/p>\nSpritz and more at bar Tinket\u00e8<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nSpritzzeria<\/strong><\/h4>\nOverlooking the Mediterranean to the west, Spritzzeria<\/a> is the ideal spot for an evening aperitivo while watching the sunset (and the people go by). A regular Aperol Spritz is only \u20ac7 (April 2025), which was the best value we found on the island. Snacks are basic (crisps and nuts) but you can\u2019t beat the view.<\/p>\nPlanning a trip to the Italian islands? Check out my <\/em>guide to Sardinian restaurants<\/em><\/a> and my <\/em>wine lover\u2019s guide to the Sardinian region of Gallura<\/em><\/a>!<\/em><\/h3>\n<\/p><\/div>\n
After nomad-ing around Italy for three consecutive years \u2013 starting in Lucca (Tuscany)<\/a>, then Sardinia<\/a>, and now Sicily \u2013 I\u2019ve come to expect three things from Italian life: excellent food, plentiful opportunities for aperitivo, and a warm welcome for my diminutive dog. Ortigia, a tiny island dangling off the southeastern tip of Sicily, delivered on all of the above.<\/pullout>\n\u00a0<\/p>\n\nTechnically part of the city of Siracusa, Ortigia is barely a kilometre in length (I jogged around the whole island in half an hour), and yet it has a distinct character of its own. Crumbling Baroque balconies, ancient Greek ruins and \u2013 of course \u2013 lots and lots of restaurants. The menus tend to be variations on a theme: traditional Sicilian pasta dishes, plenty of seafood and the ever-present cannolo for dessert. So choosing where to eat often comes down to the atmosphere more than the food: sea view or city street, linen tablecloths or plastic chairs, a glass of Etna wine or a Negroni Sbagliato.\n \n<\/center><\/div>\n \n <\/p>\nWe stayed in the Jewish Quarter (Giudecca), a slightly quieter pocket of the island that I quickly warmed to. It\u2019s less frenetic than the restaurant gauntlet of Via Cavour, but still full of foodie finds \u2013 we rarely walked more than a few paces without stumbling across a wine bar or trattoria.<\/p>\nWhat to eat in Ortigia, Sicily<\/strong><\/h2>\nBeing an island, it\u2019s no surprise that Ortigia\u2019s cuisine leans heavily on fish and seafood \u2013 with the fresh swordfish and tuna being my particular favourites. In Siracusa specifically, you\u2019ll often see spaghetti alla Siracusana<\/em> on the menu: a punchy pasta dish with tomato, anchovy, capers and olives. There\u2019s also penne alla Norma<\/em> \u2013 a Sicilian classic of aubergine, tomato, basil and ricotta salata \u2013 <\/em>as well as pasta with pistachio pesto and prawns (pistachios are cultivated on the island and you see them on absolutely everything!).<\/p>\nFor ingredients, you can\u2019t beat Ortigia Market<\/a> \u2013 made up of a dozen or so colourful stalls and lots of people yelling in Italian (with a Sicilian accent, I presume). I picked up fresh fish and seasonal vegetables like cime di rapa<\/em> (related to broccoli) and tenerumi<\/em> (the leaves and vines of a type of courgette) to cook at our apartment.<\/p>\nThe Sicilians put pistachio on everything from pasta to cannoli!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nIn terms of street food, arancini<\/em> (deep-fried rice balls stuffed with rag\u00f9, mozzarella, etc.) are everywhere, as are scacciate<\/em> (Sicilian stuffed flatbreads) and vota vota<\/em> (somewhat similar but long and rectangular). As you can imagine, my lunches were frequently quick and carb-fuelled. But when you\u2019re feeling in need of some veggies, caponata<\/em> \u2013 a sweet-and-savoury aubergine-based stew \u2013 is a deliciously tangy side dish sold everywhere.<\/p>\nFor those with a sweet tooth, cannoli are ubiquitous, as is granita: a sort of flavoured slushie. I started to do a little research on these, but couldn\u2019t take the sugar crashes that followed. Too sweet for me, but there are plenty of other websites out there extolling the best cannoli and granita in Ortigia!<\/p>\nTransport to, from and around Ortigia Island and Siracusa<\/strong><\/h2>\nBefore you can start eating, you\u2019re going to need to get to southeast Sicily. The closest airport to Siracusa is Catania, served by several international airlines including ITA Airways<\/a>, KLM<\/a>, Delta<\/a>, Lufthansa<\/a> and British Airways<\/a>, as well as low-cost carriers like Ryanair<\/a> and easyJet<\/a>. You can compare times and prices among all airlines on sites like\u00a0Skyscanner<\/a>,\u00a0Expedia<\/a>\u00a0and\u00a0Omio<\/a>.<\/p>\nFrom Catania, you can either catch a direct bus to Siracusa with Interbus<\/a>; hop on a regional train with Trenitalia<\/a>; or rent a car<\/a> if you plan to explore beyond the city. From Siracusa bus or train station, you can walk to Ortigia or take a taxi. Once on the island, you won\u2019t need a car \u2013 the whole island is walkable, and in fact, much of it is restricted to pedestrians anyway.<\/p>\nMy favourite Ortigia restaurants<\/strong><\/h2>\nI expected a few tourist traps, but it\u2019s relatively hard to get a bad meal in Ortigia. I could include 80% of the places I ate in this guide, so instead I just decided to focus down on a couple of my top recommendations for each category: pasta, seafood, street food, pizza, wine bars and aperitivo spots.<\/p>\nPerfect pasta in Ortigia<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nJobi<\/strong><\/h4>\nWe landed at Ristorante Jobi<\/a> for our first dinner on the island, mostly because it was late and this happened to be close to our apartment. But Jobi deserves a spot on this list for its penne alla Norma<\/em>, which was everything I wanted from the dish: silky, yielding aubergine; sweet-tart tomato sauce; and that toothsome, salty tang from the ricotta salata<\/em>. Service was warm and welcoming \u2013 we got a wave every time we passed by afterwards.<\/p>\nPerfect penne alla Norma at Jobi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nColaPasta<\/strong><\/h4>\nA pick-your-pasta, pick-your-sauce spot that\u2019s more casual than your average Sicilian trattoria: the placemats and plates may be paper, but the pasta is perfect. I loved ColaPasta<\/a>\u2019s casarecce<\/em> with fennel and anchovy pesto, especially paired with a crisp glass of organic Grillo. Bonus points for friendly service and a shady terrace where we managed to bag an extra table despite a full house.<\/p>\nCasarecce<\/em> with fennel and anchovy pesto at ColaPasta<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nFish and seafood restaurants on Ortigia Island<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nRistorante La Medusa<\/strong><\/h4>\nIf it\u2019s good enough for Whoopi Goldberg, it\u2019s good enough for me! Apparently Ms Goldberg (who has a house on the island) is a regular at La Medusa<\/a>, and since we spotted her out for a wander one day we thought we\u2019d follow in her footsteps to her local fish restaurant. We started with some excellent octopus salad and smoked fish three ways (salmon, swordfish and tuna), followed by grilled swordfish and various pasta dishes. My favourite went off menu: we saw a white haired gentleman eating a plate of linguine with clams, shrimp, mussels and razor clams with a brothy, parsley-laden sauce. My husband said: \u201cI\u2019ll have what he\u2019s having\u201d and we declared it to be the best dish of the night.<\/p>\nSmoked fish at La Medusa<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nSpizzuliamu<\/strong><\/h4>\nBuried in the maze of ultra-touristy streets, I didn\u2019t have hugely high hopes for Spizzuliamu<\/a>. But needless to say, it surprised me. The menu features more fish and seafood than anything else (although a few other dishes are available) and we ordered the mussels plus a couple of primi<\/em>. I was a particular fan of their trofie<\/em> (a type of pasta) with swordfish, aubergine and mint. The fish was fantastic, the sauce silky, and the mint lifted the dish with a freshness to cut through the oily base. Delicious with a glass of Grillo.<\/p>\nTrofie with swordfish, aubergine and mint at Spizzuliamu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nSicilian street food<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nCaseificio Borderi<\/strong><\/h4>\nRight by Ortigia Market, this legendary sandwich shop makes for great people-watching while you wait for a panino<\/em> that\u2019s so big you could easily split one between two. I went for Caseificio Borderi<\/a>\u2019s smoked prosciutto with mozzarella, olives and sun-dried tomatoes, which was so generously filled that I ended up sneaking slivers of prosciutto to my dog.<\/p>\nGiant sandwiches at Caseificio Borderi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nU\u2019Sicilianu<\/strong><\/h4>\nI became a regular at U\u2019Sicilianu<\/a> in the Jewish Quarter by the end of my trip, practising my (very basic) Italian with the lovely lady who works there. She serves everything from street food snacks like arancini and scacciate<\/em> to proper meals like lasagne and melanzane di Parmigiana<\/em> with grilled vegetables on the side. Generous, tasty and affordable, U\u2019Sicilianu became my favourite spot for a takeaway lunch or dinner.<\/p>\nBest pizza in Siracusa<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nPizzeria Schiticchio<\/strong><\/h4>\nSchiticchio<\/a> serves some of the best pizza I\u2019ve eaten in a long time, despite being down a very touristy pedestrian street. They offer both traditional Neapolitan pizzas and \u201cpizzas that represent the Sicilian territory\u201d (according to the menu) so of course we went for the latter. A lot of them feature yellow datterino<\/em> tomato sauce, which I can highly recommend: sweet and piquant. We ordered the Vulcanello, with spicy salami, stracciatella and a zingy chilli drizzle on top \u2013 the perfect heat level. And the Levanzo, topped with smoked mozzarella, Nebrodi<\/em> black pork (essentially fancy smoked ham), ricotta, toasted almonds and smoked olive oil. Toppings were very generous, and the pizzas were absolutely banging \u2013 especially with a glass of Etna Rosso wine.<\/p>\nSicilian-style pizzas at Schiticchio<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nPiano B<\/strong><\/h4>\nTechnically just over the bridge in mainland Siracusa, Piano B<\/a> has won various accolades for its pizza and is also part of the Slow Food movement. I particularly liked the fact that all pizzas could be made either Neapolitan-style (with pillowy, puffed-up crusts) or Roman-style (with thin & crispy crusts). So of course we ordered both! The Roman-style Parmigiana came with silky fried aubergine, buffalo mozzarella, ham and eggs, while the Neapolitan-style Margherita was simple but expertly done. We also found the perfect \u201cpizza wine\u201d: a fruity-meets-rustic Frappato-Nero d\u2019Avola blend by Cerasuolo di Vittoria.<\/p>\nWine and taglieri in Ortigia<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nA note about enotecas<\/em>: in Italy, a wine bar, a wine shop and a place where you can eat substantial snacks (i.e. dinner replacement!) are often one and the same thing \u2013 an enoteca<\/em><\/a>. All of my picks below are these kind of multi-functional wine spaces, where you can pop in for a glass or take home a bottle.<\/p>\nEvo\u00e8 Wine Bar<\/strong><\/h4>\nNext door to Jobi (see the pasta section above), Enoteca Evo\u00e8<\/a> is everything you want from a wine bar. The owner explains the wines in a way that\u2019s simple but not patronising, and there are dozens of open bottles to try \u2013 predominantly Sicilian but other regions are represented, too. And you should definitely taste some Etna wines while you\u2019re in Sicily! If you\u2019re hungry, Evo\u00e8 offers fantastic\u00a0taglieri<\/em> platters stacked with Sicilian cheeses and cured meats: highlights included donkey mortadella (yep, that\u2019s a thing), silky prosciutto, sweetly spiced porchetta and local sheep\u2019s cheese.<\/p>\nWine and taglieri at Enoteca Evo\u00e8<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nTaverna Giudecca<\/strong><\/h4>\nTiny and tucked away, Taverna Giudecca<\/a> is a simple five-table enoteca<\/em> in the Jewish Quarter. The antipasti for two could\u2019ve easily fed four: think caponata, caprese, olives and roasted vegetables on the veggie front, plus various cheeses, salami and spicy mortadella for the meat eaters. We washed it down with two different versions of Nero d\u2019Avola \u2013 one young and fruity, the other oakier and more structured \u2013 and still only paid around \u20ac25 per person.<\/p>\nAntipasti platter at Taverna Giudecca<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nEnoteca Solaria<\/strong><\/h4>\nWith a terrace that\u2019s perfect for people watching, Enoteca Solaria<\/a> has a wide selection of (mostly natural) wines by the glass \u2013 from Sicily but also further afield. I tried an Etna Bianco that was Carricante-led and reminded me of cooking apples and salted caramel, followed by a rustic Etna Rosso made from Nerello Mascalese. Snacks are simple but well executed: think bruschetta with pistachio pesto and thinly sliced lardo<\/em>. Solaria has far more wines available by the bottle, both to take home and to drink at the bar (for a \u20ac5 corkage fee).<\/p>\nCocktail bars and aperitivo hour<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nTinkit\u00e8<\/strong><\/h4>\nMy go-to local bar during our stay, I went back so many times I was on first name terms with the staff. They mix fantastic cocktails, from punchy whisky sours to citrusy margaritas to pick-me-up espresso martinis. But Tinkit\u00e8<\/a> is open pretty much all day: you can go in for a breakfast cappuccino or an afternoon snack as well. The terrace catches the afternoon sun, which was a bonus in April when temperatures weren\u2019t that high.<\/p>\nSpritz and more at bar Tinket\u00e8<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nSpritzzeria<\/strong><\/h4>\nOverlooking the Mediterranean to the west, Spritzzeria<\/a> is the ideal spot for an evening aperitivo while watching the sunset (and the people go by). A regular Aperol Spritz is only \u20ac7 (April 2025), which was the best value we found on the island. Snacks are basic (crisps and nuts) but you can\u2019t beat the view.<\/p>\nPlanning a trip to the Italian islands? Check out my <\/em>guide to Sardinian restaurants<\/em><\/a> and my <\/em>wine lover\u2019s guide to the Sardinian region of Gallura<\/em><\/a>!<\/em><\/h3>\n<\/p><\/div>\n
\n <\/p>\n
We stayed in the Jewish Quarter (Giudecca), a slightly quieter pocket of the island that I quickly warmed to. It\u2019s less frenetic than the restaurant gauntlet of Via Cavour, but still full of foodie finds \u2013 we rarely walked more than a few paces without stumbling across a wine bar or trattoria.<\/p>\n
Being an island, it\u2019s no surprise that Ortigia\u2019s cuisine leans heavily on fish and seafood \u2013 with the fresh swordfish and tuna being my particular favourites. In Siracusa specifically, you\u2019ll often see spaghetti alla Siracusana<\/em> on the menu: a punchy pasta dish with tomato, anchovy, capers and olives. There\u2019s also penne alla Norma<\/em> \u2013 a Sicilian classic of aubergine, tomato, basil and ricotta salata \u2013 <\/em>as well as pasta with pistachio pesto and prawns (pistachios are cultivated on the island and you see them on absolutely everything!).<\/p>\nFor ingredients, you can\u2019t beat Ortigia Market<\/a> \u2013 made up of a dozen or so colourful stalls and lots of people yelling in Italian (with a Sicilian accent, I presume). I picked up fresh fish and seasonal vegetables like cime di rapa<\/em> (related to broccoli) and tenerumi<\/em> (the leaves and vines of a type of courgette) to cook at our apartment.<\/p>\nThe Sicilians put pistachio on everything from pasta to cannoli!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nIn terms of street food, arancini<\/em> (deep-fried rice balls stuffed with rag\u00f9, mozzarella, etc.) are everywhere, as are scacciate<\/em> (Sicilian stuffed flatbreads) and vota vota<\/em> (somewhat similar but long and rectangular). As you can imagine, my lunches were frequently quick and carb-fuelled. But when you\u2019re feeling in need of some veggies, caponata<\/em> \u2013 a sweet-and-savoury aubergine-based stew \u2013 is a deliciously tangy side dish sold everywhere.<\/p>\nFor those with a sweet tooth, cannoli are ubiquitous, as is granita: a sort of flavoured slushie. I started to do a little research on these, but couldn\u2019t take the sugar crashes that followed. Too sweet for me, but there are plenty of other websites out there extolling the best cannoli and granita in Ortigia!<\/p>\nTransport to, from and around Ortigia Island and Siracusa<\/strong><\/h2>\nBefore you can start eating, you\u2019re going to need to get to southeast Sicily. The closest airport to Siracusa is Catania, served by several international airlines including ITA Airways<\/a>, KLM<\/a>, Delta<\/a>, Lufthansa<\/a> and British Airways<\/a>, as well as low-cost carriers like Ryanair<\/a> and easyJet<\/a>. You can compare times and prices among all airlines on sites like\u00a0Skyscanner<\/a>,\u00a0Expedia<\/a>\u00a0and\u00a0Omio<\/a>.<\/p>\nFrom Catania, you can either catch a direct bus to Siracusa with Interbus<\/a>; hop on a regional train with Trenitalia<\/a>; or rent a car<\/a> if you plan to explore beyond the city. From Siracusa bus or train station, you can walk to Ortigia or take a taxi. Once on the island, you won\u2019t need a car \u2013 the whole island is walkable, and in fact, much of it is restricted to pedestrians anyway.<\/p>\nMy favourite Ortigia restaurants<\/strong><\/h2>\nI expected a few tourist traps, but it\u2019s relatively hard to get a bad meal in Ortigia. I could include 80% of the places I ate in this guide, so instead I just decided to focus down on a couple of my top recommendations for each category: pasta, seafood, street food, pizza, wine bars and aperitivo spots.<\/p>\nPerfect pasta in Ortigia<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nJobi<\/strong><\/h4>\nWe landed at Ristorante Jobi<\/a> for our first dinner on the island, mostly because it was late and this happened to be close to our apartment. But Jobi deserves a spot on this list for its penne alla Norma<\/em>, which was everything I wanted from the dish: silky, yielding aubergine; sweet-tart tomato sauce; and that toothsome, salty tang from the ricotta salata<\/em>. Service was warm and welcoming \u2013 we got a wave every time we passed by afterwards.<\/p>\nPerfect penne alla Norma at Jobi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nColaPasta<\/strong><\/h4>\nA pick-your-pasta, pick-your-sauce spot that\u2019s more casual than your average Sicilian trattoria: the placemats and plates may be paper, but the pasta is perfect. I loved ColaPasta<\/a>\u2019s casarecce<\/em> with fennel and anchovy pesto, especially paired with a crisp glass of organic Grillo. Bonus points for friendly service and a shady terrace where we managed to bag an extra table despite a full house.<\/p>\nCasarecce<\/em> with fennel and anchovy pesto at ColaPasta<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nFish and seafood restaurants on Ortigia Island<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nRistorante La Medusa<\/strong><\/h4>\nIf it\u2019s good enough for Whoopi Goldberg, it\u2019s good enough for me! Apparently Ms Goldberg (who has a house on the island) is a regular at La Medusa<\/a>, and since we spotted her out for a wander one day we thought we\u2019d follow in her footsteps to her local fish restaurant. We started with some excellent octopus salad and smoked fish three ways (salmon, swordfish and tuna), followed by grilled swordfish and various pasta dishes. My favourite went off menu: we saw a white haired gentleman eating a plate of linguine with clams, shrimp, mussels and razor clams with a brothy, parsley-laden sauce. My husband said: \u201cI\u2019ll have what he\u2019s having\u201d and we declared it to be the best dish of the night.<\/p>\nSmoked fish at La Medusa<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nSpizzuliamu<\/strong><\/h4>\nBuried in the maze of ultra-touristy streets, I didn\u2019t have hugely high hopes for Spizzuliamu<\/a>. But needless to say, it surprised me. The menu features more fish and seafood than anything else (although a few other dishes are available) and we ordered the mussels plus a couple of primi<\/em>. I was a particular fan of their trofie<\/em> (a type of pasta) with swordfish, aubergine and mint. The fish was fantastic, the sauce silky, and the mint lifted the dish with a freshness to cut through the oily base. Delicious with a glass of Grillo.<\/p>\nTrofie with swordfish, aubergine and mint at Spizzuliamu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nSicilian street food<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nCaseificio Borderi<\/strong><\/h4>\nRight by Ortigia Market, this legendary sandwich shop makes for great people-watching while you wait for a panino<\/em> that\u2019s so big you could easily split one between two. I went for Caseificio Borderi<\/a>\u2019s smoked prosciutto with mozzarella, olives and sun-dried tomatoes, which was so generously filled that I ended up sneaking slivers of prosciutto to my dog.<\/p>\nGiant sandwiches at Caseificio Borderi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nU\u2019Sicilianu<\/strong><\/h4>\nI became a regular at U\u2019Sicilianu<\/a> in the Jewish Quarter by the end of my trip, practising my (very basic) Italian with the lovely lady who works there. She serves everything from street food snacks like arancini and scacciate<\/em> to proper meals like lasagne and melanzane di Parmigiana<\/em> with grilled vegetables on the side. Generous, tasty and affordable, U\u2019Sicilianu became my favourite spot for a takeaway lunch or dinner.<\/p>\nBest pizza in Siracusa<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nPizzeria Schiticchio<\/strong><\/h4>\nSchiticchio<\/a> serves some of the best pizza I\u2019ve eaten in a long time, despite being down a very touristy pedestrian street. They offer both traditional Neapolitan pizzas and \u201cpizzas that represent the Sicilian territory\u201d (according to the menu) so of course we went for the latter. A lot of them feature yellow datterino<\/em> tomato sauce, which I can highly recommend: sweet and piquant. We ordered the Vulcanello, with spicy salami, stracciatella and a zingy chilli drizzle on top \u2013 the perfect heat level. And the Levanzo, topped with smoked mozzarella, Nebrodi<\/em> black pork (essentially fancy smoked ham), ricotta, toasted almonds and smoked olive oil. Toppings were very generous, and the pizzas were absolutely banging \u2013 especially with a glass of Etna Rosso wine.<\/p>\nSicilian-style pizzas at Schiticchio<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nPiano B<\/strong><\/h4>\nTechnically just over the bridge in mainland Siracusa, Piano B<\/a> has won various accolades for its pizza and is also part of the Slow Food movement. I particularly liked the fact that all pizzas could be made either Neapolitan-style (with pillowy, puffed-up crusts) or Roman-style (with thin & crispy crusts). So of course we ordered both! The Roman-style Parmigiana came with silky fried aubergine, buffalo mozzarella, ham and eggs, while the Neapolitan-style Margherita was simple but expertly done. We also found the perfect \u201cpizza wine\u201d: a fruity-meets-rustic Frappato-Nero d\u2019Avola blend by Cerasuolo di Vittoria.<\/p>\nWine and taglieri in Ortigia<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nA note about enotecas<\/em>: in Italy, a wine bar, a wine shop and a place where you can eat substantial snacks (i.e. dinner replacement!) are often one and the same thing \u2013 an enoteca<\/em><\/a>. All of my picks below are these kind of multi-functional wine spaces, where you can pop in for a glass or take home a bottle.<\/p>\nEvo\u00e8 Wine Bar<\/strong><\/h4>\nNext door to Jobi (see the pasta section above), Enoteca Evo\u00e8<\/a> is everything you want from a wine bar. The owner explains the wines in a way that\u2019s simple but not patronising, and there are dozens of open bottles to try \u2013 predominantly Sicilian but other regions are represented, too. And you should definitely taste some Etna wines while you\u2019re in Sicily! If you\u2019re hungry, Evo\u00e8 offers fantastic\u00a0taglieri<\/em> platters stacked with Sicilian cheeses and cured meats: highlights included donkey mortadella (yep, that\u2019s a thing), silky prosciutto, sweetly spiced porchetta and local sheep\u2019s cheese.<\/p>\nWine and taglieri at Enoteca Evo\u00e8<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nTaverna Giudecca<\/strong><\/h4>\nTiny and tucked away, Taverna Giudecca<\/a> is a simple five-table enoteca<\/em> in the Jewish Quarter. The antipasti for two could\u2019ve easily fed four: think caponata, caprese, olives and roasted vegetables on the veggie front, plus various cheeses, salami and spicy mortadella for the meat eaters. We washed it down with two different versions of Nero d\u2019Avola \u2013 one young and fruity, the other oakier and more structured \u2013 and still only paid around \u20ac25 per person.<\/p>\nAntipasti platter at Taverna Giudecca<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nEnoteca Solaria<\/strong><\/h4>\nWith a terrace that\u2019s perfect for people watching, Enoteca Solaria<\/a> has a wide selection of (mostly natural) wines by the glass \u2013 from Sicily but also further afield. I tried an Etna Bianco that was Carricante-led and reminded me of cooking apples and salted caramel, followed by a rustic Etna Rosso made from Nerello Mascalese. Snacks are simple but well executed: think bruschetta with pistachio pesto and thinly sliced lardo<\/em>. Solaria has far more wines available by the bottle, both to take home and to drink at the bar (for a \u20ac5 corkage fee).<\/p>\nCocktail bars and aperitivo hour<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nTinkit\u00e8<\/strong><\/h4>\nMy go-to local bar during our stay, I went back so many times I was on first name terms with the staff. They mix fantastic cocktails, from punchy whisky sours to citrusy margaritas to pick-me-up espresso martinis. But Tinkit\u00e8<\/a> is open pretty much all day: you can go in for a breakfast cappuccino or an afternoon snack as well. The terrace catches the afternoon sun, which was a bonus in April when temperatures weren\u2019t that high.<\/p>\nSpritz and more at bar Tinket\u00e8<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nSpritzzeria<\/strong><\/h4>\nOverlooking the Mediterranean to the west, Spritzzeria<\/a> is the ideal spot for an evening aperitivo while watching the sunset (and the people go by). A regular Aperol Spritz is only \u20ac7 (April 2025), which was the best value we found on the island. Snacks are basic (crisps and nuts) but you can\u2019t beat the view.<\/p>\nPlanning a trip to the Italian islands? Check out my <\/em>guide to Sardinian restaurants<\/em><\/a> and my <\/em>wine lover\u2019s guide to the Sardinian region of Gallura<\/em><\/a>!<\/em><\/h3>\n<\/p><\/div>\n
For ingredients, you can\u2019t beat Ortigia Market<\/a> \u2013 made up of a dozen or so colourful stalls and lots of people yelling in Italian (with a Sicilian accent, I presume). I picked up fresh fish and seasonal vegetables like cime di rapa<\/em> (related to broccoli) and tenerumi<\/em> (the leaves and vines of a type of courgette) to cook at our apartment.<\/p>\nThe Sicilians put pistachio on everything from pasta to cannoli!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nIn terms of street food, arancini<\/em> (deep-fried rice balls stuffed with rag\u00f9, mozzarella, etc.) are everywhere, as are scacciate<\/em> (Sicilian stuffed flatbreads) and vota vota<\/em> (somewhat similar but long and rectangular). As you can imagine, my lunches were frequently quick and carb-fuelled. But when you\u2019re feeling in need of some veggies, caponata<\/em> \u2013 a sweet-and-savoury aubergine-based stew \u2013 is a deliciously tangy side dish sold everywhere.<\/p>\nFor those with a sweet tooth, cannoli are ubiquitous, as is granita: a sort of flavoured slushie. I started to do a little research on these, but couldn\u2019t take the sugar crashes that followed. Too sweet for me, but there are plenty of other websites out there extolling the best cannoli and granita in Ortigia!<\/p>\nTransport to, from and around Ortigia Island and Siracusa<\/strong><\/h2>\nBefore you can start eating, you\u2019re going to need to get to southeast Sicily. The closest airport to Siracusa is Catania, served by several international airlines including ITA Airways<\/a>, KLM<\/a>, Delta<\/a>, Lufthansa<\/a> and British Airways<\/a>, as well as low-cost carriers like Ryanair<\/a> and easyJet<\/a>. You can compare times and prices among all airlines on sites like\u00a0Skyscanner<\/a>,\u00a0Expedia<\/a>\u00a0and\u00a0Omio<\/a>.<\/p>\nFrom Catania, you can either catch a direct bus to Siracusa with Interbus<\/a>; hop on a regional train with Trenitalia<\/a>; or rent a car<\/a> if you plan to explore beyond the city. From Siracusa bus or train station, you can walk to Ortigia or take a taxi. Once on the island, you won\u2019t need a car \u2013 the whole island is walkable, and in fact, much of it is restricted to pedestrians anyway.<\/p>\nMy favourite Ortigia restaurants<\/strong><\/h2>\nI expected a few tourist traps, but it\u2019s relatively hard to get a bad meal in Ortigia. I could include 80% of the places I ate in this guide, so instead I just decided to focus down on a couple of my top recommendations for each category: pasta, seafood, street food, pizza, wine bars and aperitivo spots.<\/p>\nPerfect pasta in Ortigia<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nJobi<\/strong><\/h4>\nWe landed at Ristorante Jobi<\/a> for our first dinner on the island, mostly because it was late and this happened to be close to our apartment. But Jobi deserves a spot on this list for its penne alla Norma<\/em>, which was everything I wanted from the dish: silky, yielding aubergine; sweet-tart tomato sauce; and that toothsome, salty tang from the ricotta salata<\/em>. Service was warm and welcoming \u2013 we got a wave every time we passed by afterwards.<\/p>\nPerfect penne alla Norma at Jobi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nColaPasta<\/strong><\/h4>\nA pick-your-pasta, pick-your-sauce spot that\u2019s more casual than your average Sicilian trattoria: the placemats and plates may be paper, but the pasta is perfect. I loved ColaPasta<\/a>\u2019s casarecce<\/em> with fennel and anchovy pesto, especially paired with a crisp glass of organic Grillo. Bonus points for friendly service and a shady terrace where we managed to bag an extra table despite a full house.<\/p>\nCasarecce<\/em> with fennel and anchovy pesto at ColaPasta<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nFish and seafood restaurants on Ortigia Island<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nRistorante La Medusa<\/strong><\/h4>\nIf it\u2019s good enough for Whoopi Goldberg, it\u2019s good enough for me! Apparently Ms Goldberg (who has a house on the island) is a regular at La Medusa<\/a>, and since we spotted her out for a wander one day we thought we\u2019d follow in her footsteps to her local fish restaurant. We started with some excellent octopus salad and smoked fish three ways (salmon, swordfish and tuna), followed by grilled swordfish and various pasta dishes. My favourite went off menu: we saw a white haired gentleman eating a plate of linguine with clams, shrimp, mussels and razor clams with a brothy, parsley-laden sauce. My husband said: \u201cI\u2019ll have what he\u2019s having\u201d and we declared it to be the best dish of the night.<\/p>\nSmoked fish at La Medusa<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nSpizzuliamu<\/strong><\/h4>\nBuried in the maze of ultra-touristy streets, I didn\u2019t have hugely high hopes for Spizzuliamu<\/a>. But needless to say, it surprised me. The menu features more fish and seafood than anything else (although a few other dishes are available) and we ordered the mussels plus a couple of primi<\/em>. I was a particular fan of their trofie<\/em> (a type of pasta) with swordfish, aubergine and mint. The fish was fantastic, the sauce silky, and the mint lifted the dish with a freshness to cut through the oily base. Delicious with a glass of Grillo.<\/p>\nTrofie with swordfish, aubergine and mint at Spizzuliamu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nSicilian street food<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nCaseificio Borderi<\/strong><\/h4>\nRight by Ortigia Market, this legendary sandwich shop makes for great people-watching while you wait for a panino<\/em> that\u2019s so big you could easily split one between two. I went for Caseificio Borderi<\/a>\u2019s smoked prosciutto with mozzarella, olives and sun-dried tomatoes, which was so generously filled that I ended up sneaking slivers of prosciutto to my dog.<\/p>\nGiant sandwiches at Caseificio Borderi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nU\u2019Sicilianu<\/strong><\/h4>\nI became a regular at U\u2019Sicilianu<\/a> in the Jewish Quarter by the end of my trip, practising my (very basic) Italian with the lovely lady who works there. She serves everything from street food snacks like arancini and scacciate<\/em> to proper meals like lasagne and melanzane di Parmigiana<\/em> with grilled vegetables on the side. Generous, tasty and affordable, U\u2019Sicilianu became my favourite spot for a takeaway lunch or dinner.<\/p>\nBest pizza in Siracusa<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nPizzeria Schiticchio<\/strong><\/h4>\nSchiticchio<\/a> serves some of the best pizza I\u2019ve eaten in a long time, despite being down a very touristy pedestrian street. They offer both traditional Neapolitan pizzas and \u201cpizzas that represent the Sicilian territory\u201d (according to the menu) so of course we went for the latter. A lot of them feature yellow datterino<\/em> tomato sauce, which I can highly recommend: sweet and piquant. We ordered the Vulcanello, with spicy salami, stracciatella and a zingy chilli drizzle on top \u2013 the perfect heat level. And the Levanzo, topped with smoked mozzarella, Nebrodi<\/em> black pork (essentially fancy smoked ham), ricotta, toasted almonds and smoked olive oil. Toppings were very generous, and the pizzas were absolutely banging \u2013 especially with a glass of Etna Rosso wine.<\/p>\nSicilian-style pizzas at Schiticchio<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nPiano B<\/strong><\/h4>\nTechnically just over the bridge in mainland Siracusa, Piano B<\/a> has won various accolades for its pizza and is also part of the Slow Food movement. I particularly liked the fact that all pizzas could be made either Neapolitan-style (with pillowy, puffed-up crusts) or Roman-style (with thin & crispy crusts). So of course we ordered both! The Roman-style Parmigiana came with silky fried aubergine, buffalo mozzarella, ham and eggs, while the Neapolitan-style Margherita was simple but expertly done. We also found the perfect \u201cpizza wine\u201d: a fruity-meets-rustic Frappato-Nero d\u2019Avola blend by Cerasuolo di Vittoria.<\/p>\nWine and taglieri in Ortigia<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nA note about enotecas<\/em>: in Italy, a wine bar, a wine shop and a place where you can eat substantial snacks (i.e. dinner replacement!) are often one and the same thing \u2013 an enoteca<\/em><\/a>. All of my picks below are these kind of multi-functional wine spaces, where you can pop in for a glass or take home a bottle.<\/p>\nEvo\u00e8 Wine Bar<\/strong><\/h4>\nNext door to Jobi (see the pasta section above), Enoteca Evo\u00e8<\/a> is everything you want from a wine bar. The owner explains the wines in a way that\u2019s simple but not patronising, and there are dozens of open bottles to try \u2013 predominantly Sicilian but other regions are represented, too. And you should definitely taste some Etna wines while you\u2019re in Sicily! If you\u2019re hungry, Evo\u00e8 offers fantastic\u00a0taglieri<\/em> platters stacked with Sicilian cheeses and cured meats: highlights included donkey mortadella (yep, that\u2019s a thing), silky prosciutto, sweetly spiced porchetta and local sheep\u2019s cheese.<\/p>\nWine and taglieri at Enoteca Evo\u00e8<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nTaverna Giudecca<\/strong><\/h4>\nTiny and tucked away, Taverna Giudecca<\/a> is a simple five-table enoteca<\/em> in the Jewish Quarter. The antipasti for two could\u2019ve easily fed four: think caponata, caprese, olives and roasted vegetables on the veggie front, plus various cheeses, salami and spicy mortadella for the meat eaters. We washed it down with two different versions of Nero d\u2019Avola \u2013 one young and fruity, the other oakier and more structured \u2013 and still only paid around \u20ac25 per person.<\/p>\nAntipasti platter at Taverna Giudecca<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nEnoteca Solaria<\/strong><\/h4>\nWith a terrace that\u2019s perfect for people watching, Enoteca Solaria<\/a> has a wide selection of (mostly natural) wines by the glass \u2013 from Sicily but also further afield. I tried an Etna Bianco that was Carricante-led and reminded me of cooking apples and salted caramel, followed by a rustic Etna Rosso made from Nerello Mascalese. Snacks are simple but well executed: think bruschetta with pistachio pesto and thinly sliced lardo<\/em>. Solaria has far more wines available by the bottle, both to take home and to drink at the bar (for a \u20ac5 corkage fee).<\/p>\nCocktail bars and aperitivo hour<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nTinkit\u00e8<\/strong><\/h4>\nMy go-to local bar during our stay, I went back so many times I was on first name terms with the staff. They mix fantastic cocktails, from punchy whisky sours to citrusy margaritas to pick-me-up espresso martinis. But Tinkit\u00e8<\/a> is open pretty much all day: you can go in for a breakfast cappuccino or an afternoon snack as well. The terrace catches the afternoon sun, which was a bonus in April when temperatures weren\u2019t that high.<\/p>\nSpritz and more at bar Tinket\u00e8<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nSpritzzeria<\/strong><\/h4>\nOverlooking the Mediterranean to the west, Spritzzeria<\/a> is the ideal spot for an evening aperitivo while watching the sunset (and the people go by). A regular Aperol Spritz is only \u20ac7 (April 2025), which was the best value we found on the island. Snacks are basic (crisps and nuts) but you can\u2019t beat the view.<\/p>\nPlanning a trip to the Italian islands? Check out my <\/em>guide to Sardinian restaurants<\/em><\/a> and my <\/em>wine lover\u2019s guide to the Sardinian region of Gallura<\/em><\/a>!<\/em><\/h3>\n<\/p><\/div>\n
In terms of street food, arancini<\/em> (deep-fried rice balls stuffed with rag\u00f9, mozzarella, etc.) are everywhere, as are scacciate<\/em> (Sicilian stuffed flatbreads) and vota vota<\/em> (somewhat similar but long and rectangular). As you can imagine, my lunches were frequently quick and carb-fuelled. But when you\u2019re feeling in need of some veggies, caponata<\/em> \u2013 a sweet-and-savoury aubergine-based stew \u2013 is a deliciously tangy side dish sold everywhere.<\/p>\nFor those with a sweet tooth, cannoli are ubiquitous, as is granita: a sort of flavoured slushie. I started to do a little research on these, but couldn\u2019t take the sugar crashes that followed. Too sweet for me, but there are plenty of other websites out there extolling the best cannoli and granita in Ortigia!<\/p>\nTransport to, from and around Ortigia Island and Siracusa<\/strong><\/h2>\nBefore you can start eating, you\u2019re going to need to get to southeast Sicily. The closest airport to Siracusa is Catania, served by several international airlines including ITA Airways<\/a>, KLM<\/a>, Delta<\/a>, Lufthansa<\/a> and British Airways<\/a>, as well as low-cost carriers like Ryanair<\/a> and easyJet<\/a>. You can compare times and prices among all airlines on sites like\u00a0Skyscanner<\/a>,\u00a0Expedia<\/a>\u00a0and\u00a0Omio<\/a>.<\/p>\nFrom Catania, you can either catch a direct bus to Siracusa with Interbus<\/a>; hop on a regional train with Trenitalia<\/a>; or rent a car<\/a> if you plan to explore beyond the city. From Siracusa bus or train station, you can walk to Ortigia or take a taxi. Once on the island, you won\u2019t need a car \u2013 the whole island is walkable, and in fact, much of it is restricted to pedestrians anyway.<\/p>\nMy favourite Ortigia restaurants<\/strong><\/h2>\nI expected a few tourist traps, but it\u2019s relatively hard to get a bad meal in Ortigia. I could include 80% of the places I ate in this guide, so instead I just decided to focus down on a couple of my top recommendations for each category: pasta, seafood, street food, pizza, wine bars and aperitivo spots.<\/p>\nPerfect pasta in Ortigia<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nJobi<\/strong><\/h4>\nWe landed at Ristorante Jobi<\/a> for our first dinner on the island, mostly because it was late and this happened to be close to our apartment. But Jobi deserves a spot on this list for its penne alla Norma<\/em>, which was everything I wanted from the dish: silky, yielding aubergine; sweet-tart tomato sauce; and that toothsome, salty tang from the ricotta salata<\/em>. Service was warm and welcoming \u2013 we got a wave every time we passed by afterwards.<\/p>\nPerfect penne alla Norma at Jobi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nColaPasta<\/strong><\/h4>\nA pick-your-pasta, pick-your-sauce spot that\u2019s more casual than your average Sicilian trattoria: the placemats and plates may be paper, but the pasta is perfect. I loved ColaPasta<\/a>\u2019s casarecce<\/em> with fennel and anchovy pesto, especially paired with a crisp glass of organic Grillo. Bonus points for friendly service and a shady terrace where we managed to bag an extra table despite a full house.<\/p>\nCasarecce<\/em> with fennel and anchovy pesto at ColaPasta<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nFish and seafood restaurants on Ortigia Island<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nRistorante La Medusa<\/strong><\/h4>\nIf it\u2019s good enough for Whoopi Goldberg, it\u2019s good enough for me! Apparently Ms Goldberg (who has a house on the island) is a regular at La Medusa<\/a>, and since we spotted her out for a wander one day we thought we\u2019d follow in her footsteps to her local fish restaurant. We started with some excellent octopus salad and smoked fish three ways (salmon, swordfish and tuna), followed by grilled swordfish and various pasta dishes. My favourite went off menu: we saw a white haired gentleman eating a plate of linguine with clams, shrimp, mussels and razor clams with a brothy, parsley-laden sauce. My husband said: \u201cI\u2019ll have what he\u2019s having\u201d and we declared it to be the best dish of the night.<\/p>\nSmoked fish at La Medusa<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nSpizzuliamu<\/strong><\/h4>\nBuried in the maze of ultra-touristy streets, I didn\u2019t have hugely high hopes for Spizzuliamu<\/a>. But needless to say, it surprised me. The menu features more fish and seafood than anything else (although a few other dishes are available) and we ordered the mussels plus a couple of primi<\/em>. I was a particular fan of their trofie<\/em> (a type of pasta) with swordfish, aubergine and mint. The fish was fantastic, the sauce silky, and the mint lifted the dish with a freshness to cut through the oily base. Delicious with a glass of Grillo.<\/p>\nTrofie with swordfish, aubergine and mint at Spizzuliamu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nSicilian street food<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nCaseificio Borderi<\/strong><\/h4>\nRight by Ortigia Market, this legendary sandwich shop makes for great people-watching while you wait for a panino<\/em> that\u2019s so big you could easily split one between two. I went for Caseificio Borderi<\/a>\u2019s smoked prosciutto with mozzarella, olives and sun-dried tomatoes, which was so generously filled that I ended up sneaking slivers of prosciutto to my dog.<\/p>\nGiant sandwiches at Caseificio Borderi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nU\u2019Sicilianu<\/strong><\/h4>\nI became a regular at U\u2019Sicilianu<\/a> in the Jewish Quarter by the end of my trip, practising my (very basic) Italian with the lovely lady who works there. She serves everything from street food snacks like arancini and scacciate<\/em> to proper meals like lasagne and melanzane di Parmigiana<\/em> with grilled vegetables on the side. Generous, tasty and affordable, U\u2019Sicilianu became my favourite spot for a takeaway lunch or dinner.<\/p>\nBest pizza in Siracusa<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nPizzeria Schiticchio<\/strong><\/h4>\nSchiticchio<\/a> serves some of the best pizza I\u2019ve eaten in a long time, despite being down a very touristy pedestrian street. They offer both traditional Neapolitan pizzas and \u201cpizzas that represent the Sicilian territory\u201d (according to the menu) so of course we went for the latter. A lot of them feature yellow datterino<\/em> tomato sauce, which I can highly recommend: sweet and piquant. We ordered the Vulcanello, with spicy salami, stracciatella and a zingy chilli drizzle on top \u2013 the perfect heat level. And the Levanzo, topped with smoked mozzarella, Nebrodi<\/em> black pork (essentially fancy smoked ham), ricotta, toasted almonds and smoked olive oil. Toppings were very generous, and the pizzas were absolutely banging \u2013 especially with a glass of Etna Rosso wine.<\/p>\nSicilian-style pizzas at Schiticchio<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nPiano B<\/strong><\/h4>\nTechnically just over the bridge in mainland Siracusa, Piano B<\/a> has won various accolades for its pizza and is also part of the Slow Food movement. I particularly liked the fact that all pizzas could be made either Neapolitan-style (with pillowy, puffed-up crusts) or Roman-style (with thin & crispy crusts). So of course we ordered both! The Roman-style Parmigiana came with silky fried aubergine, buffalo mozzarella, ham and eggs, while the Neapolitan-style Margherita was simple but expertly done. We also found the perfect \u201cpizza wine\u201d: a fruity-meets-rustic Frappato-Nero d\u2019Avola blend by Cerasuolo di Vittoria.<\/p>\nWine and taglieri in Ortigia<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nA note about enotecas<\/em>: in Italy, a wine bar, a wine shop and a place where you can eat substantial snacks (i.e. dinner replacement!) are often one and the same thing \u2013 an enoteca<\/em><\/a>. All of my picks below are these kind of multi-functional wine spaces, where you can pop in for a glass or take home a bottle.<\/p>\nEvo\u00e8 Wine Bar<\/strong><\/h4>\nNext door to Jobi (see the pasta section above), Enoteca Evo\u00e8<\/a> is everything you want from a wine bar. The owner explains the wines in a way that\u2019s simple but not patronising, and there are dozens of open bottles to try \u2013 predominantly Sicilian but other regions are represented, too. And you should definitely taste some Etna wines while you\u2019re in Sicily! If you\u2019re hungry, Evo\u00e8 offers fantastic\u00a0taglieri<\/em> platters stacked with Sicilian cheeses and cured meats: highlights included donkey mortadella (yep, that\u2019s a thing), silky prosciutto, sweetly spiced porchetta and local sheep\u2019s cheese.<\/p>\nWine and taglieri at Enoteca Evo\u00e8<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nTaverna Giudecca<\/strong><\/h4>\nTiny and tucked away, Taverna Giudecca<\/a> is a simple five-table enoteca<\/em> in the Jewish Quarter. The antipasti for two could\u2019ve easily fed four: think caponata, caprese, olives and roasted vegetables on the veggie front, plus various cheeses, salami and spicy mortadella for the meat eaters. We washed it down with two different versions of Nero d\u2019Avola \u2013 one young and fruity, the other oakier and more structured \u2013 and still only paid around \u20ac25 per person.<\/p>\nAntipasti platter at Taverna Giudecca<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nEnoteca Solaria<\/strong><\/h4>\nWith a terrace that\u2019s perfect for people watching, Enoteca Solaria<\/a> has a wide selection of (mostly natural) wines by the glass \u2013 from Sicily but also further afield. I tried an Etna Bianco that was Carricante-led and reminded me of cooking apples and salted caramel, followed by a rustic Etna Rosso made from Nerello Mascalese. Snacks are simple but well executed: think bruschetta with pistachio pesto and thinly sliced lardo<\/em>. Solaria has far more wines available by the bottle, both to take home and to drink at the bar (for a \u20ac5 corkage fee).<\/p>\nCocktail bars and aperitivo hour<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nTinkit\u00e8<\/strong><\/h4>\nMy go-to local bar during our stay, I went back so many times I was on first name terms with the staff. They mix fantastic cocktails, from punchy whisky sours to citrusy margaritas to pick-me-up espresso martinis. But Tinkit\u00e8<\/a> is open pretty much all day: you can go in for a breakfast cappuccino or an afternoon snack as well. The terrace catches the afternoon sun, which was a bonus in April when temperatures weren\u2019t that high.<\/p>\nSpritz and more at bar Tinket\u00e8<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nSpritzzeria<\/strong><\/h4>\nOverlooking the Mediterranean to the west, Spritzzeria<\/a> is the ideal spot for an evening aperitivo while watching the sunset (and the people go by). A regular Aperol Spritz is only \u20ac7 (April 2025), which was the best value we found on the island. Snacks are basic (crisps and nuts) but you can\u2019t beat the view.<\/p>\nPlanning a trip to the Italian islands? Check out my <\/em>guide to Sardinian restaurants<\/em><\/a> and my <\/em>wine lover\u2019s guide to the Sardinian region of Gallura<\/em><\/a>!<\/em><\/h3>\n<\/p><\/div>\n
For those with a sweet tooth, cannoli are ubiquitous, as is granita: a sort of flavoured slushie. I started to do a little research on these, but couldn\u2019t take the sugar crashes that followed. Too sweet for me, but there are plenty of other websites out there extolling the best cannoli and granita in Ortigia!<\/p>\n
Before you can start eating, you\u2019re going to need to get to southeast Sicily. The closest airport to Siracusa is Catania, served by several international airlines including ITA Airways<\/a>, KLM<\/a>, Delta<\/a>, Lufthansa<\/a> and British Airways<\/a>, as well as low-cost carriers like Ryanair<\/a> and easyJet<\/a>. You can compare times and prices among all airlines on sites like\u00a0Skyscanner<\/a>,\u00a0Expedia<\/a>\u00a0and\u00a0Omio<\/a>.<\/p>\nFrom Catania, you can either catch a direct bus to Siracusa with Interbus<\/a>; hop on a regional train with Trenitalia<\/a>; or rent a car<\/a> if you plan to explore beyond the city. From Siracusa bus or train station, you can walk to Ortigia or take a taxi. Once on the island, you won\u2019t need a car \u2013 the whole island is walkable, and in fact, much of it is restricted to pedestrians anyway.<\/p>\nMy favourite Ortigia restaurants<\/strong><\/h2>\nI expected a few tourist traps, but it\u2019s relatively hard to get a bad meal in Ortigia. I could include 80% of the places I ate in this guide, so instead I just decided to focus down on a couple of my top recommendations for each category: pasta, seafood, street food, pizza, wine bars and aperitivo spots.<\/p>\nPerfect pasta in Ortigia<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nJobi<\/strong><\/h4>\nWe landed at Ristorante Jobi<\/a> for our first dinner on the island, mostly because it was late and this happened to be close to our apartment. But Jobi deserves a spot on this list for its penne alla Norma<\/em>, which was everything I wanted from the dish: silky, yielding aubergine; sweet-tart tomato sauce; and that toothsome, salty tang from the ricotta salata<\/em>. Service was warm and welcoming \u2013 we got a wave every time we passed by afterwards.<\/p>\nPerfect penne alla Norma at Jobi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nColaPasta<\/strong><\/h4>\nA pick-your-pasta, pick-your-sauce spot that\u2019s more casual than your average Sicilian trattoria: the placemats and plates may be paper, but the pasta is perfect. I loved ColaPasta<\/a>\u2019s casarecce<\/em> with fennel and anchovy pesto, especially paired with a crisp glass of organic Grillo. Bonus points for friendly service and a shady terrace where we managed to bag an extra table despite a full house.<\/p>\nCasarecce<\/em> with fennel and anchovy pesto at ColaPasta<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nFish and seafood restaurants on Ortigia Island<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nRistorante La Medusa<\/strong><\/h4>\nIf it\u2019s good enough for Whoopi Goldberg, it\u2019s good enough for me! Apparently Ms Goldberg (who has a house on the island) is a regular at La Medusa<\/a>, and since we spotted her out for a wander one day we thought we\u2019d follow in her footsteps to her local fish restaurant. We started with some excellent octopus salad and smoked fish three ways (salmon, swordfish and tuna), followed by grilled swordfish and various pasta dishes. My favourite went off menu: we saw a white haired gentleman eating a plate of linguine with clams, shrimp, mussels and razor clams with a brothy, parsley-laden sauce. My husband said: \u201cI\u2019ll have what he\u2019s having\u201d and we declared it to be the best dish of the night.<\/p>\nSmoked fish at La Medusa<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nSpizzuliamu<\/strong><\/h4>\nBuried in the maze of ultra-touristy streets, I didn\u2019t have hugely high hopes for Spizzuliamu<\/a>. But needless to say, it surprised me. The menu features more fish and seafood than anything else (although a few other dishes are available) and we ordered the mussels plus a couple of primi<\/em>. I was a particular fan of their trofie<\/em> (a type of pasta) with swordfish, aubergine and mint. The fish was fantastic, the sauce silky, and the mint lifted the dish with a freshness to cut through the oily base. Delicious with a glass of Grillo.<\/p>\nTrofie with swordfish, aubergine and mint at Spizzuliamu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nSicilian street food<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nCaseificio Borderi<\/strong><\/h4>\nRight by Ortigia Market, this legendary sandwich shop makes for great people-watching while you wait for a panino<\/em> that\u2019s so big you could easily split one between two. I went for Caseificio Borderi<\/a>\u2019s smoked prosciutto with mozzarella, olives and sun-dried tomatoes, which was so generously filled that I ended up sneaking slivers of prosciutto to my dog.<\/p>\nGiant sandwiches at Caseificio Borderi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nU\u2019Sicilianu<\/strong><\/h4>\nI became a regular at U\u2019Sicilianu<\/a> in the Jewish Quarter by the end of my trip, practising my (very basic) Italian with the lovely lady who works there. She serves everything from street food snacks like arancini and scacciate<\/em> to proper meals like lasagne and melanzane di Parmigiana<\/em> with grilled vegetables on the side. Generous, tasty and affordable, U\u2019Sicilianu became my favourite spot for a takeaway lunch or dinner.<\/p>\nBest pizza in Siracusa<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nPizzeria Schiticchio<\/strong><\/h4>\nSchiticchio<\/a> serves some of the best pizza I\u2019ve eaten in a long time, despite being down a very touristy pedestrian street. They offer both traditional Neapolitan pizzas and \u201cpizzas that represent the Sicilian territory\u201d (according to the menu) so of course we went for the latter. A lot of them feature yellow datterino<\/em> tomato sauce, which I can highly recommend: sweet and piquant. We ordered the Vulcanello, with spicy salami, stracciatella and a zingy chilli drizzle on top \u2013 the perfect heat level. And the Levanzo, topped with smoked mozzarella, Nebrodi<\/em> black pork (essentially fancy smoked ham), ricotta, toasted almonds and smoked olive oil. Toppings were very generous, and the pizzas were absolutely banging \u2013 especially with a glass of Etna Rosso wine.<\/p>\nSicilian-style pizzas at Schiticchio<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nPiano B<\/strong><\/h4>\nTechnically just over the bridge in mainland Siracusa, Piano B<\/a> has won various accolades for its pizza and is also part of the Slow Food movement. I particularly liked the fact that all pizzas could be made either Neapolitan-style (with pillowy, puffed-up crusts) or Roman-style (with thin & crispy crusts). So of course we ordered both! The Roman-style Parmigiana came with silky fried aubergine, buffalo mozzarella, ham and eggs, while the Neapolitan-style Margherita was simple but expertly done. We also found the perfect \u201cpizza wine\u201d: a fruity-meets-rustic Frappato-Nero d\u2019Avola blend by Cerasuolo di Vittoria.<\/p>\nWine and taglieri in Ortigia<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nA note about enotecas<\/em>: in Italy, a wine bar, a wine shop and a place where you can eat substantial snacks (i.e. dinner replacement!) are often one and the same thing \u2013 an enoteca<\/em><\/a>. All of my picks below are these kind of multi-functional wine spaces, where you can pop in for a glass or take home a bottle.<\/p>\nEvo\u00e8 Wine Bar<\/strong><\/h4>\nNext door to Jobi (see the pasta section above), Enoteca Evo\u00e8<\/a> is everything you want from a wine bar. The owner explains the wines in a way that\u2019s simple but not patronising, and there are dozens of open bottles to try \u2013 predominantly Sicilian but other regions are represented, too. And you should definitely taste some Etna wines while you\u2019re in Sicily! If you\u2019re hungry, Evo\u00e8 offers fantastic\u00a0taglieri<\/em> platters stacked with Sicilian cheeses and cured meats: highlights included donkey mortadella (yep, that\u2019s a thing), silky prosciutto, sweetly spiced porchetta and local sheep\u2019s cheese.<\/p>\nWine and taglieri at Enoteca Evo\u00e8<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nTaverna Giudecca<\/strong><\/h4>\nTiny and tucked away, Taverna Giudecca<\/a> is a simple five-table enoteca<\/em> in the Jewish Quarter. The antipasti for two could\u2019ve easily fed four: think caponata, caprese, olives and roasted vegetables on the veggie front, plus various cheeses, salami and spicy mortadella for the meat eaters. We washed it down with two different versions of Nero d\u2019Avola \u2013 one young and fruity, the other oakier and more structured \u2013 and still only paid around \u20ac25 per person.<\/p>\nAntipasti platter at Taverna Giudecca<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nEnoteca Solaria<\/strong><\/h4>\nWith a terrace that\u2019s perfect for people watching, Enoteca Solaria<\/a> has a wide selection of (mostly natural) wines by the glass \u2013 from Sicily but also further afield. I tried an Etna Bianco that was Carricante-led and reminded me of cooking apples and salted caramel, followed by a rustic Etna Rosso made from Nerello Mascalese. Snacks are simple but well executed: think bruschetta with pistachio pesto and thinly sliced lardo<\/em>. Solaria has far more wines available by the bottle, both to take home and to drink at the bar (for a \u20ac5 corkage fee).<\/p>\nCocktail bars and aperitivo hour<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nTinkit\u00e8<\/strong><\/h4>\nMy go-to local bar during our stay, I went back so many times I was on first name terms with the staff. They mix fantastic cocktails, from punchy whisky sours to citrusy margaritas to pick-me-up espresso martinis. But Tinkit\u00e8<\/a> is open pretty much all day: you can go in for a breakfast cappuccino or an afternoon snack as well. The terrace catches the afternoon sun, which was a bonus in April when temperatures weren\u2019t that high.<\/p>\nSpritz and more at bar Tinket\u00e8<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nSpritzzeria<\/strong><\/h4>\nOverlooking the Mediterranean to the west, Spritzzeria<\/a> is the ideal spot for an evening aperitivo while watching the sunset (and the people go by). A regular Aperol Spritz is only \u20ac7 (April 2025), which was the best value we found on the island. Snacks are basic (crisps and nuts) but you can\u2019t beat the view.<\/p>\nPlanning a trip to the Italian islands? Check out my <\/em>guide to Sardinian restaurants<\/em><\/a> and my <\/em>wine lover\u2019s guide to the Sardinian region of Gallura<\/em><\/a>!<\/em><\/h3>\n<\/p><\/div>\n
From Catania, you can either catch a direct bus to Siracusa with Interbus<\/a>; hop on a regional train with Trenitalia<\/a>; or rent a car<\/a> if you plan to explore beyond the city. From Siracusa bus or train station, you can walk to Ortigia or take a taxi. Once on the island, you won\u2019t need a car \u2013 the whole island is walkable, and in fact, much of it is restricted to pedestrians anyway.<\/p>\nMy favourite Ortigia restaurants<\/strong><\/h2>\nI expected a few tourist traps, but it\u2019s relatively hard to get a bad meal in Ortigia. I could include 80% of the places I ate in this guide, so instead I just decided to focus down on a couple of my top recommendations for each category: pasta, seafood, street food, pizza, wine bars and aperitivo spots.<\/p>\nPerfect pasta in Ortigia<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nJobi<\/strong><\/h4>\nWe landed at Ristorante Jobi<\/a> for our first dinner on the island, mostly because it was late and this happened to be close to our apartment. But Jobi deserves a spot on this list for its penne alla Norma<\/em>, which was everything I wanted from the dish: silky, yielding aubergine; sweet-tart tomato sauce; and that toothsome, salty tang from the ricotta salata<\/em>. Service was warm and welcoming \u2013 we got a wave every time we passed by afterwards.<\/p>\nPerfect penne alla Norma at Jobi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nColaPasta<\/strong><\/h4>\nA pick-your-pasta, pick-your-sauce spot that\u2019s more casual than your average Sicilian trattoria: the placemats and plates may be paper, but the pasta is perfect. I loved ColaPasta<\/a>\u2019s casarecce<\/em> with fennel and anchovy pesto, especially paired with a crisp glass of organic Grillo. Bonus points for friendly service and a shady terrace where we managed to bag an extra table despite a full house.<\/p>\nCasarecce<\/em> with fennel and anchovy pesto at ColaPasta<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nFish and seafood restaurants on Ortigia Island<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nRistorante La Medusa<\/strong><\/h4>\nIf it\u2019s good enough for Whoopi Goldberg, it\u2019s good enough for me! Apparently Ms Goldberg (who has a house on the island) is a regular at La Medusa<\/a>, and since we spotted her out for a wander one day we thought we\u2019d follow in her footsteps to her local fish restaurant. We started with some excellent octopus salad and smoked fish three ways (salmon, swordfish and tuna), followed by grilled swordfish and various pasta dishes. My favourite went off menu: we saw a white haired gentleman eating a plate of linguine with clams, shrimp, mussels and razor clams with a brothy, parsley-laden sauce. My husband said: \u201cI\u2019ll have what he\u2019s having\u201d and we declared it to be the best dish of the night.<\/p>\nSmoked fish at La Medusa<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nSpizzuliamu<\/strong><\/h4>\nBuried in the maze of ultra-touristy streets, I didn\u2019t have hugely high hopes for Spizzuliamu<\/a>. But needless to say, it surprised me. The menu features more fish and seafood than anything else (although a few other dishes are available) and we ordered the mussels plus a couple of primi<\/em>. I was a particular fan of their trofie<\/em> (a type of pasta) with swordfish, aubergine and mint. The fish was fantastic, the sauce silky, and the mint lifted the dish with a freshness to cut through the oily base. Delicious with a glass of Grillo.<\/p>\nTrofie with swordfish, aubergine and mint at Spizzuliamu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nSicilian street food<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nCaseificio Borderi<\/strong><\/h4>\nRight by Ortigia Market, this legendary sandwich shop makes for great people-watching while you wait for a panino<\/em> that\u2019s so big you could easily split one between two. I went for Caseificio Borderi<\/a>\u2019s smoked prosciutto with mozzarella, olives and sun-dried tomatoes, which was so generously filled that I ended up sneaking slivers of prosciutto to my dog.<\/p>\nGiant sandwiches at Caseificio Borderi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nU\u2019Sicilianu<\/strong><\/h4>\nI became a regular at U\u2019Sicilianu<\/a> in the Jewish Quarter by the end of my trip, practising my (very basic) Italian with the lovely lady who works there. She serves everything from street food snacks like arancini and scacciate<\/em> to proper meals like lasagne and melanzane di Parmigiana<\/em> with grilled vegetables on the side. Generous, tasty and affordable, U\u2019Sicilianu became my favourite spot for a takeaway lunch or dinner.<\/p>\nBest pizza in Siracusa<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nPizzeria Schiticchio<\/strong><\/h4>\nSchiticchio<\/a> serves some of the best pizza I\u2019ve eaten in a long time, despite being down a very touristy pedestrian street. They offer both traditional Neapolitan pizzas and \u201cpizzas that represent the Sicilian territory\u201d (according to the menu) so of course we went for the latter. A lot of them feature yellow datterino<\/em> tomato sauce, which I can highly recommend: sweet and piquant. We ordered the Vulcanello, with spicy salami, stracciatella and a zingy chilli drizzle on top \u2013 the perfect heat level. And the Levanzo, topped with smoked mozzarella, Nebrodi<\/em> black pork (essentially fancy smoked ham), ricotta, toasted almonds and smoked olive oil. Toppings were very generous, and the pizzas were absolutely banging \u2013 especially with a glass of Etna Rosso wine.<\/p>\nSicilian-style pizzas at Schiticchio<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nPiano B<\/strong><\/h4>\nTechnically just over the bridge in mainland Siracusa, Piano B<\/a> has won various accolades for its pizza and is also part of the Slow Food movement. I particularly liked the fact that all pizzas could be made either Neapolitan-style (with pillowy, puffed-up crusts) or Roman-style (with thin & crispy crusts). So of course we ordered both! The Roman-style Parmigiana came with silky fried aubergine, buffalo mozzarella, ham and eggs, while the Neapolitan-style Margherita was simple but expertly done. We also found the perfect \u201cpizza wine\u201d: a fruity-meets-rustic Frappato-Nero d\u2019Avola blend by Cerasuolo di Vittoria.<\/p>\nWine and taglieri in Ortigia<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nA note about enotecas<\/em>: in Italy, a wine bar, a wine shop and a place where you can eat substantial snacks (i.e. dinner replacement!) are often one and the same thing \u2013 an enoteca<\/em><\/a>. All of my picks below are these kind of multi-functional wine spaces, where you can pop in for a glass or take home a bottle.<\/p>\nEvo\u00e8 Wine Bar<\/strong><\/h4>\nNext door to Jobi (see the pasta section above), Enoteca Evo\u00e8<\/a> is everything you want from a wine bar. The owner explains the wines in a way that\u2019s simple but not patronising, and there are dozens of open bottles to try \u2013 predominantly Sicilian but other regions are represented, too. And you should definitely taste some Etna wines while you\u2019re in Sicily! If you\u2019re hungry, Evo\u00e8 offers fantastic\u00a0taglieri<\/em> platters stacked with Sicilian cheeses and cured meats: highlights included donkey mortadella (yep, that\u2019s a thing), silky prosciutto, sweetly spiced porchetta and local sheep\u2019s cheese.<\/p>\nWine and taglieri at Enoteca Evo\u00e8<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nTaverna Giudecca<\/strong><\/h4>\nTiny and tucked away, Taverna Giudecca<\/a> is a simple five-table enoteca<\/em> in the Jewish Quarter. The antipasti for two could\u2019ve easily fed four: think caponata, caprese, olives and roasted vegetables on the veggie front, plus various cheeses, salami and spicy mortadella for the meat eaters. We washed it down with two different versions of Nero d\u2019Avola \u2013 one young and fruity, the other oakier and more structured \u2013 and still only paid around \u20ac25 per person.<\/p>\nAntipasti platter at Taverna Giudecca<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nEnoteca Solaria<\/strong><\/h4>\nWith a terrace that\u2019s perfect for people watching, Enoteca Solaria<\/a> has a wide selection of (mostly natural) wines by the glass \u2013 from Sicily but also further afield. I tried an Etna Bianco that was Carricante-led and reminded me of cooking apples and salted caramel, followed by a rustic Etna Rosso made from Nerello Mascalese. Snacks are simple but well executed: think bruschetta with pistachio pesto and thinly sliced lardo<\/em>. Solaria has far more wines available by the bottle, both to take home and to drink at the bar (for a \u20ac5 corkage fee).<\/p>\nCocktail bars and aperitivo hour<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nTinkit\u00e8<\/strong><\/h4>\nMy go-to local bar during our stay, I went back so many times I was on first name terms with the staff. They mix fantastic cocktails, from punchy whisky sours to citrusy margaritas to pick-me-up espresso martinis. But Tinkit\u00e8<\/a> is open pretty much all day: you can go in for a breakfast cappuccino or an afternoon snack as well. The terrace catches the afternoon sun, which was a bonus in April when temperatures weren\u2019t that high.<\/p>\nSpritz and more at bar Tinket\u00e8<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nSpritzzeria<\/strong><\/h4>\nOverlooking the Mediterranean to the west, Spritzzeria<\/a> is the ideal spot for an evening aperitivo while watching the sunset (and the people go by). A regular Aperol Spritz is only \u20ac7 (April 2025), which was the best value we found on the island. Snacks are basic (crisps and nuts) but you can\u2019t beat the view.<\/p>\nPlanning a trip to the Italian islands? Check out my <\/em>guide to Sardinian restaurants<\/em><\/a> and my <\/em>wine lover\u2019s guide to the Sardinian region of Gallura<\/em><\/a>!<\/em><\/h3>\n<\/p><\/div>\n
I expected a few tourist traps, but it\u2019s relatively hard to get a bad meal in Ortigia. I could include 80% of the places I ate in this guide, so instead I just decided to focus down on a couple of my top recommendations for each category: pasta, seafood, street food, pizza, wine bars and aperitivo spots.<\/p>\n
We landed at Ristorante Jobi<\/a> for our first dinner on the island, mostly because it was late and this happened to be close to our apartment. But Jobi deserves a spot on this list for its penne alla Norma<\/em>, which was everything I wanted from the dish: silky, yielding aubergine; sweet-tart tomato sauce; and that toothsome, salty tang from the ricotta salata<\/em>. Service was warm and welcoming \u2013 we got a wave every time we passed by afterwards.<\/p>\nPerfect penne alla Norma at Jobi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nColaPasta<\/strong><\/h4>\nA pick-your-pasta, pick-your-sauce spot that\u2019s more casual than your average Sicilian trattoria: the placemats and plates may be paper, but the pasta is perfect. I loved ColaPasta<\/a>\u2019s casarecce<\/em> with fennel and anchovy pesto, especially paired with a crisp glass of organic Grillo. Bonus points for friendly service and a shady terrace where we managed to bag an extra table despite a full house.<\/p>\nCasarecce<\/em> with fennel and anchovy pesto at ColaPasta<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nFish and seafood restaurants on Ortigia Island<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nRistorante La Medusa<\/strong><\/h4>\nIf it\u2019s good enough for Whoopi Goldberg, it\u2019s good enough for me! Apparently Ms Goldberg (who has a house on the island) is a regular at La Medusa<\/a>, and since we spotted her out for a wander one day we thought we\u2019d follow in her footsteps to her local fish restaurant. We started with some excellent octopus salad and smoked fish three ways (salmon, swordfish and tuna), followed by grilled swordfish and various pasta dishes. My favourite went off menu: we saw a white haired gentleman eating a plate of linguine with clams, shrimp, mussels and razor clams with a brothy, parsley-laden sauce. My husband said: \u201cI\u2019ll have what he\u2019s having\u201d and we declared it to be the best dish of the night.<\/p>\nSmoked fish at La Medusa<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nSpizzuliamu<\/strong><\/h4>\nBuried in the maze of ultra-touristy streets, I didn\u2019t have hugely high hopes for Spizzuliamu<\/a>. But needless to say, it surprised me. The menu features more fish and seafood than anything else (although a few other dishes are available) and we ordered the mussels plus a couple of primi<\/em>. I was a particular fan of their trofie<\/em> (a type of pasta) with swordfish, aubergine and mint. The fish was fantastic, the sauce silky, and the mint lifted the dish with a freshness to cut through the oily base. Delicious with a glass of Grillo.<\/p>\nTrofie with swordfish, aubergine and mint at Spizzuliamu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nSicilian street food<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nCaseificio Borderi<\/strong><\/h4>\nRight by Ortigia Market, this legendary sandwich shop makes for great people-watching while you wait for a panino<\/em> that\u2019s so big you could easily split one between two. I went for Caseificio Borderi<\/a>\u2019s smoked prosciutto with mozzarella, olives and sun-dried tomatoes, which was so generously filled that I ended up sneaking slivers of prosciutto to my dog.<\/p>\nGiant sandwiches at Caseificio Borderi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nU\u2019Sicilianu<\/strong><\/h4>\nI became a regular at U\u2019Sicilianu<\/a> in the Jewish Quarter by the end of my trip, practising my (very basic) Italian with the lovely lady who works there. She serves everything from street food snacks like arancini and scacciate<\/em> to proper meals like lasagne and melanzane di Parmigiana<\/em> with grilled vegetables on the side. Generous, tasty and affordable, U\u2019Sicilianu became my favourite spot for a takeaway lunch or dinner.<\/p>\nBest pizza in Siracusa<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nPizzeria Schiticchio<\/strong><\/h4>\nSchiticchio<\/a> serves some of the best pizza I\u2019ve eaten in a long time, despite being down a very touristy pedestrian street. They offer both traditional Neapolitan pizzas and \u201cpizzas that represent the Sicilian territory\u201d (according to the menu) so of course we went for the latter. A lot of them feature yellow datterino<\/em> tomato sauce, which I can highly recommend: sweet and piquant. We ordered the Vulcanello, with spicy salami, stracciatella and a zingy chilli drizzle on top \u2013 the perfect heat level. And the Levanzo, topped with smoked mozzarella, Nebrodi<\/em> black pork (essentially fancy smoked ham), ricotta, toasted almonds and smoked olive oil. Toppings were very generous, and the pizzas were absolutely banging \u2013 especially with a glass of Etna Rosso wine.<\/p>\nSicilian-style pizzas at Schiticchio<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nPiano B<\/strong><\/h4>\nTechnically just over the bridge in mainland Siracusa, Piano B<\/a> has won various accolades for its pizza and is also part of the Slow Food movement. I particularly liked the fact that all pizzas could be made either Neapolitan-style (with pillowy, puffed-up crusts) or Roman-style (with thin & crispy crusts). So of course we ordered both! The Roman-style Parmigiana came with silky fried aubergine, buffalo mozzarella, ham and eggs, while the Neapolitan-style Margherita was simple but expertly done. We also found the perfect \u201cpizza wine\u201d: a fruity-meets-rustic Frappato-Nero d\u2019Avola blend by Cerasuolo di Vittoria.<\/p>\nWine and taglieri in Ortigia<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nA note about enotecas<\/em>: in Italy, a wine bar, a wine shop and a place where you can eat substantial snacks (i.e. dinner replacement!) are often one and the same thing \u2013 an enoteca<\/em><\/a>. All of my picks below are these kind of multi-functional wine spaces, where you can pop in for a glass or take home a bottle.<\/p>\nEvo\u00e8 Wine Bar<\/strong><\/h4>\nNext door to Jobi (see the pasta section above), Enoteca Evo\u00e8<\/a> is everything you want from a wine bar. The owner explains the wines in a way that\u2019s simple but not patronising, and there are dozens of open bottles to try \u2013 predominantly Sicilian but other regions are represented, too. And you should definitely taste some Etna wines while you\u2019re in Sicily! If you\u2019re hungry, Evo\u00e8 offers fantastic\u00a0taglieri<\/em> platters stacked with Sicilian cheeses and cured meats: highlights included donkey mortadella (yep, that\u2019s a thing), silky prosciutto, sweetly spiced porchetta and local sheep\u2019s cheese.<\/p>\nWine and taglieri at Enoteca Evo\u00e8<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nTaverna Giudecca<\/strong><\/h4>\nTiny and tucked away, Taverna Giudecca<\/a> is a simple five-table enoteca<\/em> in the Jewish Quarter. The antipasti for two could\u2019ve easily fed four: think caponata, caprese, olives and roasted vegetables on the veggie front, plus various cheeses, salami and spicy mortadella for the meat eaters. We washed it down with two different versions of Nero d\u2019Avola \u2013 one young and fruity, the other oakier and more structured \u2013 and still only paid around \u20ac25 per person.<\/p>\nAntipasti platter at Taverna Giudecca<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nEnoteca Solaria<\/strong><\/h4>\nWith a terrace that\u2019s perfect for people watching, Enoteca Solaria<\/a> has a wide selection of (mostly natural) wines by the glass \u2013 from Sicily but also further afield. I tried an Etna Bianco that was Carricante-led and reminded me of cooking apples and salted caramel, followed by a rustic Etna Rosso made from Nerello Mascalese. Snacks are simple but well executed: think bruschetta with pistachio pesto and thinly sliced lardo<\/em>. Solaria has far more wines available by the bottle, both to take home and to drink at the bar (for a \u20ac5 corkage fee).<\/p>\nCocktail bars and aperitivo hour<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nTinkit\u00e8<\/strong><\/h4>\nMy go-to local bar during our stay, I went back so many times I was on first name terms with the staff. They mix fantastic cocktails, from punchy whisky sours to citrusy margaritas to pick-me-up espresso martinis. But Tinkit\u00e8<\/a> is open pretty much all day: you can go in for a breakfast cappuccino or an afternoon snack as well. The terrace catches the afternoon sun, which was a bonus in April when temperatures weren\u2019t that high.<\/p>\nSpritz and more at bar Tinket\u00e8<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nSpritzzeria<\/strong><\/h4>\nOverlooking the Mediterranean to the west, Spritzzeria<\/a> is the ideal spot for an evening aperitivo while watching the sunset (and the people go by). A regular Aperol Spritz is only \u20ac7 (April 2025), which was the best value we found on the island. Snacks are basic (crisps and nuts) but you can\u2019t beat the view.<\/p>\nPlanning a trip to the Italian islands? Check out my <\/em>guide to Sardinian restaurants<\/em><\/a> and my <\/em>wine lover\u2019s guide to the Sardinian region of Gallura<\/em><\/a>!<\/em><\/h3>\n<\/p><\/div>\n
A pick-your-pasta, pick-your-sauce spot that\u2019s more casual than your average Sicilian trattoria: the placemats and plates may be paper, but the pasta is perfect. I loved ColaPasta<\/a>\u2019s casarecce<\/em> with fennel and anchovy pesto, especially paired with a crisp glass of organic Grillo. Bonus points for friendly service and a shady terrace where we managed to bag an extra table despite a full house.<\/p>\nCasarecce<\/em> with fennel and anchovy pesto at ColaPasta<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nFish and seafood restaurants on Ortigia Island<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nRistorante La Medusa<\/strong><\/h4>\nIf it\u2019s good enough for Whoopi Goldberg, it\u2019s good enough for me! Apparently Ms Goldberg (who has a house on the island) is a regular at La Medusa<\/a>, and since we spotted her out for a wander one day we thought we\u2019d follow in her footsteps to her local fish restaurant. We started with some excellent octopus salad and smoked fish three ways (salmon, swordfish and tuna), followed by grilled swordfish and various pasta dishes. My favourite went off menu: we saw a white haired gentleman eating a plate of linguine with clams, shrimp, mussels and razor clams with a brothy, parsley-laden sauce. My husband said: \u201cI\u2019ll have what he\u2019s having\u201d and we declared it to be the best dish of the night.<\/p>\nSmoked fish at La Medusa<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nSpizzuliamu<\/strong><\/h4>\nBuried in the maze of ultra-touristy streets, I didn\u2019t have hugely high hopes for Spizzuliamu<\/a>. But needless to say, it surprised me. The menu features more fish and seafood than anything else (although a few other dishes are available) and we ordered the mussels plus a couple of primi<\/em>. I was a particular fan of their trofie<\/em> (a type of pasta) with swordfish, aubergine and mint. The fish was fantastic, the sauce silky, and the mint lifted the dish with a freshness to cut through the oily base. Delicious with a glass of Grillo.<\/p>\nTrofie with swordfish, aubergine and mint at Spizzuliamu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nSicilian street food<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nCaseificio Borderi<\/strong><\/h4>\nRight by Ortigia Market, this legendary sandwich shop makes for great people-watching while you wait for a panino<\/em> that\u2019s so big you could easily split one between two. I went for Caseificio Borderi<\/a>\u2019s smoked prosciutto with mozzarella, olives and sun-dried tomatoes, which was so generously filled that I ended up sneaking slivers of prosciutto to my dog.<\/p>\nGiant sandwiches at Caseificio Borderi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nU\u2019Sicilianu<\/strong><\/h4>\nI became a regular at U\u2019Sicilianu<\/a> in the Jewish Quarter by the end of my trip, practising my (very basic) Italian with the lovely lady who works there. She serves everything from street food snacks like arancini and scacciate<\/em> to proper meals like lasagne and melanzane di Parmigiana<\/em> with grilled vegetables on the side. Generous, tasty and affordable, U\u2019Sicilianu became my favourite spot for a takeaway lunch or dinner.<\/p>\nBest pizza in Siracusa<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nPizzeria Schiticchio<\/strong><\/h4>\nSchiticchio<\/a> serves some of the best pizza I\u2019ve eaten in a long time, despite being down a very touristy pedestrian street. They offer both traditional Neapolitan pizzas and \u201cpizzas that represent the Sicilian territory\u201d (according to the menu) so of course we went for the latter. A lot of them feature yellow datterino<\/em> tomato sauce, which I can highly recommend: sweet and piquant. We ordered the Vulcanello, with spicy salami, stracciatella and a zingy chilli drizzle on top \u2013 the perfect heat level. And the Levanzo, topped with smoked mozzarella, Nebrodi<\/em> black pork (essentially fancy smoked ham), ricotta, toasted almonds and smoked olive oil. Toppings were very generous, and the pizzas were absolutely banging \u2013 especially with a glass of Etna Rosso wine.<\/p>\nSicilian-style pizzas at Schiticchio<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nPiano B<\/strong><\/h4>\nTechnically just over the bridge in mainland Siracusa, Piano B<\/a> has won various accolades for its pizza and is also part of the Slow Food movement. I particularly liked the fact that all pizzas could be made either Neapolitan-style (with pillowy, puffed-up crusts) or Roman-style (with thin & crispy crusts). So of course we ordered both! The Roman-style Parmigiana came with silky fried aubergine, buffalo mozzarella, ham and eggs, while the Neapolitan-style Margherita was simple but expertly done. We also found the perfect \u201cpizza wine\u201d: a fruity-meets-rustic Frappato-Nero d\u2019Avola blend by Cerasuolo di Vittoria.<\/p>\nWine and taglieri in Ortigia<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nA note about enotecas<\/em>: in Italy, a wine bar, a wine shop and a place where you can eat substantial snacks (i.e. dinner replacement!) are often one and the same thing \u2013 an enoteca<\/em><\/a>. All of my picks below are these kind of multi-functional wine spaces, where you can pop in for a glass or take home a bottle.<\/p>\nEvo\u00e8 Wine Bar<\/strong><\/h4>\nNext door to Jobi (see the pasta section above), Enoteca Evo\u00e8<\/a> is everything you want from a wine bar. The owner explains the wines in a way that\u2019s simple but not patronising, and there are dozens of open bottles to try \u2013 predominantly Sicilian but other regions are represented, too. And you should definitely taste some Etna wines while you\u2019re in Sicily! If you\u2019re hungry, Evo\u00e8 offers fantastic\u00a0taglieri<\/em> platters stacked with Sicilian cheeses and cured meats: highlights included donkey mortadella (yep, that\u2019s a thing), silky prosciutto, sweetly spiced porchetta and local sheep\u2019s cheese.<\/p>\nWine and taglieri at Enoteca Evo\u00e8<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nTaverna Giudecca<\/strong><\/h4>\nTiny and tucked away, Taverna Giudecca<\/a> is a simple five-table enoteca<\/em> in the Jewish Quarter. The antipasti for two could\u2019ve easily fed four: think caponata, caprese, olives and roasted vegetables on the veggie front, plus various cheeses, salami and spicy mortadella for the meat eaters. We washed it down with two different versions of Nero d\u2019Avola \u2013 one young and fruity, the other oakier and more structured \u2013 and still only paid around \u20ac25 per person.<\/p>\nAntipasti platter at Taverna Giudecca<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nEnoteca Solaria<\/strong><\/h4>\nWith a terrace that\u2019s perfect for people watching, Enoteca Solaria<\/a> has a wide selection of (mostly natural) wines by the glass \u2013 from Sicily but also further afield. I tried an Etna Bianco that was Carricante-led and reminded me of cooking apples and salted caramel, followed by a rustic Etna Rosso made from Nerello Mascalese. Snacks are simple but well executed: think bruschetta with pistachio pesto and thinly sliced lardo<\/em>. Solaria has far more wines available by the bottle, both to take home and to drink at the bar (for a \u20ac5 corkage fee).<\/p>\nCocktail bars and aperitivo hour<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nTinkit\u00e8<\/strong><\/h4>\nMy go-to local bar during our stay, I went back so many times I was on first name terms with the staff. They mix fantastic cocktails, from punchy whisky sours to citrusy margaritas to pick-me-up espresso martinis. But Tinkit\u00e8<\/a> is open pretty much all day: you can go in for a breakfast cappuccino or an afternoon snack as well. The terrace catches the afternoon sun, which was a bonus in April when temperatures weren\u2019t that high.<\/p>\nSpritz and more at bar Tinket\u00e8<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nSpritzzeria<\/strong><\/h4>\nOverlooking the Mediterranean to the west, Spritzzeria<\/a> is the ideal spot for an evening aperitivo while watching the sunset (and the people go by). A regular Aperol Spritz is only \u20ac7 (April 2025), which was the best value we found on the island. Snacks are basic (crisps and nuts) but you can\u2019t beat the view.<\/p>\nPlanning a trip to the Italian islands? Check out my <\/em>guide to Sardinian restaurants<\/em><\/a> and my <\/em>wine lover\u2019s guide to the Sardinian region of Gallura<\/em><\/a>!<\/em><\/h3>\n<\/p><\/div>\n
If it\u2019s good enough for Whoopi Goldberg, it\u2019s good enough for me! Apparently Ms Goldberg (who has a house on the island) is a regular at La Medusa<\/a>, and since we spotted her out for a wander one day we thought we\u2019d follow in her footsteps to her local fish restaurant. We started with some excellent octopus salad and smoked fish three ways (salmon, swordfish and tuna), followed by grilled swordfish and various pasta dishes. My favourite went off menu: we saw a white haired gentleman eating a plate of linguine with clams, shrimp, mussels and razor clams with a brothy, parsley-laden sauce. My husband said: \u201cI\u2019ll have what he\u2019s having\u201d and we declared it to be the best dish of the night.<\/p>\nSmoked fish at La Medusa<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nSpizzuliamu<\/strong><\/h4>\nBuried in the maze of ultra-touristy streets, I didn\u2019t have hugely high hopes for Spizzuliamu<\/a>. But needless to say, it surprised me. The menu features more fish and seafood than anything else (although a few other dishes are available) and we ordered the mussels plus a couple of primi<\/em>. I was a particular fan of their trofie<\/em> (a type of pasta) with swordfish, aubergine and mint. The fish was fantastic, the sauce silky, and the mint lifted the dish with a freshness to cut through the oily base. Delicious with a glass of Grillo.<\/p>\nTrofie with swordfish, aubergine and mint at Spizzuliamu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nSicilian street food<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nCaseificio Borderi<\/strong><\/h4>\nRight by Ortigia Market, this legendary sandwich shop makes for great people-watching while you wait for a panino<\/em> that\u2019s so big you could easily split one between two. I went for Caseificio Borderi<\/a>\u2019s smoked prosciutto with mozzarella, olives and sun-dried tomatoes, which was so generously filled that I ended up sneaking slivers of prosciutto to my dog.<\/p>\nGiant sandwiches at Caseificio Borderi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nU\u2019Sicilianu<\/strong><\/h4>\nI became a regular at U\u2019Sicilianu<\/a> in the Jewish Quarter by the end of my trip, practising my (very basic) Italian with the lovely lady who works there. She serves everything from street food snacks like arancini and scacciate<\/em> to proper meals like lasagne and melanzane di Parmigiana<\/em> with grilled vegetables on the side. Generous, tasty and affordable, U\u2019Sicilianu became my favourite spot for a takeaway lunch or dinner.<\/p>\nBest pizza in Siracusa<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nPizzeria Schiticchio<\/strong><\/h4>\nSchiticchio<\/a> serves some of the best pizza I\u2019ve eaten in a long time, despite being down a very touristy pedestrian street. They offer both traditional Neapolitan pizzas and \u201cpizzas that represent the Sicilian territory\u201d (according to the menu) so of course we went for the latter. A lot of them feature yellow datterino<\/em> tomato sauce, which I can highly recommend: sweet and piquant. We ordered the Vulcanello, with spicy salami, stracciatella and a zingy chilli drizzle on top \u2013 the perfect heat level. And the Levanzo, topped with smoked mozzarella, Nebrodi<\/em> black pork (essentially fancy smoked ham), ricotta, toasted almonds and smoked olive oil. Toppings were very generous, and the pizzas were absolutely banging \u2013 especially with a glass of Etna Rosso wine.<\/p>\nSicilian-style pizzas at Schiticchio<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nPiano B<\/strong><\/h4>\nTechnically just over the bridge in mainland Siracusa, Piano B<\/a> has won various accolades for its pizza and is also part of the Slow Food movement. I particularly liked the fact that all pizzas could be made either Neapolitan-style (with pillowy, puffed-up crusts) or Roman-style (with thin & crispy crusts). So of course we ordered both! The Roman-style Parmigiana came with silky fried aubergine, buffalo mozzarella, ham and eggs, while the Neapolitan-style Margherita was simple but expertly done. We also found the perfect \u201cpizza wine\u201d: a fruity-meets-rustic Frappato-Nero d\u2019Avola blend by Cerasuolo di Vittoria.<\/p>\nWine and taglieri in Ortigia<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nA note about enotecas<\/em>: in Italy, a wine bar, a wine shop and a place where you can eat substantial snacks (i.e. dinner replacement!) are often one and the same thing \u2013 an enoteca<\/em><\/a>. All of my picks below are these kind of multi-functional wine spaces, where you can pop in for a glass or take home a bottle.<\/p>\nEvo\u00e8 Wine Bar<\/strong><\/h4>\nNext door to Jobi (see the pasta section above), Enoteca Evo\u00e8<\/a> is everything you want from a wine bar. The owner explains the wines in a way that\u2019s simple but not patronising, and there are dozens of open bottles to try \u2013 predominantly Sicilian but other regions are represented, too. And you should definitely taste some Etna wines while you\u2019re in Sicily! If you\u2019re hungry, Evo\u00e8 offers fantastic\u00a0taglieri<\/em> platters stacked with Sicilian cheeses and cured meats: highlights included donkey mortadella (yep, that\u2019s a thing), silky prosciutto, sweetly spiced porchetta and local sheep\u2019s cheese.<\/p>\nWine and taglieri at Enoteca Evo\u00e8<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nTaverna Giudecca<\/strong><\/h4>\nTiny and tucked away, Taverna Giudecca<\/a> is a simple five-table enoteca<\/em> in the Jewish Quarter. The antipasti for two could\u2019ve easily fed four: think caponata, caprese, olives and roasted vegetables on the veggie front, plus various cheeses, salami and spicy mortadella for the meat eaters. We washed it down with two different versions of Nero d\u2019Avola \u2013 one young and fruity, the other oakier and more structured \u2013 and still only paid around \u20ac25 per person.<\/p>\nAntipasti platter at Taverna Giudecca<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nEnoteca Solaria<\/strong><\/h4>\nWith a terrace that\u2019s perfect for people watching, Enoteca Solaria<\/a> has a wide selection of (mostly natural) wines by the glass \u2013 from Sicily but also further afield. I tried an Etna Bianco that was Carricante-led and reminded me of cooking apples and salted caramel, followed by a rustic Etna Rosso made from Nerello Mascalese. Snacks are simple but well executed: think bruschetta with pistachio pesto and thinly sliced lardo<\/em>. Solaria has far more wines available by the bottle, both to take home and to drink at the bar (for a \u20ac5 corkage fee).<\/p>\nCocktail bars and aperitivo hour<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nTinkit\u00e8<\/strong><\/h4>\nMy go-to local bar during our stay, I went back so many times I was on first name terms with the staff. They mix fantastic cocktails, from punchy whisky sours to citrusy margaritas to pick-me-up espresso martinis. But Tinkit\u00e8<\/a> is open pretty much all day: you can go in for a breakfast cappuccino or an afternoon snack as well. The terrace catches the afternoon sun, which was a bonus in April when temperatures weren\u2019t that high.<\/p>\nSpritz and more at bar Tinket\u00e8<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nSpritzzeria<\/strong><\/h4>\nOverlooking the Mediterranean to the west, Spritzzeria<\/a> is the ideal spot for an evening aperitivo while watching the sunset (and the people go by). A regular Aperol Spritz is only \u20ac7 (April 2025), which was the best value we found on the island. Snacks are basic (crisps and nuts) but you can\u2019t beat the view.<\/p>\nPlanning a trip to the Italian islands? Check out my <\/em>guide to Sardinian restaurants<\/em><\/a> and my <\/em>wine lover\u2019s guide to the Sardinian region of Gallura<\/em><\/a>!<\/em><\/h3>\n<\/p><\/div>\n
Buried in the maze of ultra-touristy streets, I didn\u2019t have hugely high hopes for Spizzuliamu<\/a>. But needless to say, it surprised me. The menu features more fish and seafood than anything else (although a few other dishes are available) and we ordered the mussels plus a couple of primi<\/em>. I was a particular fan of their trofie<\/em> (a type of pasta) with swordfish, aubergine and mint. The fish was fantastic, the sauce silky, and the mint lifted the dish with a freshness to cut through the oily base. Delicious with a glass of Grillo.<\/p>\nTrofie with swordfish, aubergine and mint at Spizzuliamu<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nSicilian street food<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nCaseificio Borderi<\/strong><\/h4>\nRight by Ortigia Market, this legendary sandwich shop makes for great people-watching while you wait for a panino<\/em> that\u2019s so big you could easily split one between two. I went for Caseificio Borderi<\/a>\u2019s smoked prosciutto with mozzarella, olives and sun-dried tomatoes, which was so generously filled that I ended up sneaking slivers of prosciutto to my dog.<\/p>\nGiant sandwiches at Caseificio Borderi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nU\u2019Sicilianu<\/strong><\/h4>\nI became a regular at U\u2019Sicilianu<\/a> in the Jewish Quarter by the end of my trip, practising my (very basic) Italian with the lovely lady who works there. She serves everything from street food snacks like arancini and scacciate<\/em> to proper meals like lasagne and melanzane di Parmigiana<\/em> with grilled vegetables on the side. Generous, tasty and affordable, U\u2019Sicilianu became my favourite spot for a takeaway lunch or dinner.<\/p>\nBest pizza in Siracusa<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nPizzeria Schiticchio<\/strong><\/h4>\nSchiticchio<\/a> serves some of the best pizza I\u2019ve eaten in a long time, despite being down a very touristy pedestrian street. They offer both traditional Neapolitan pizzas and \u201cpizzas that represent the Sicilian territory\u201d (according to the menu) so of course we went for the latter. A lot of them feature yellow datterino<\/em> tomato sauce, which I can highly recommend: sweet and piquant. We ordered the Vulcanello, with spicy salami, stracciatella and a zingy chilli drizzle on top \u2013 the perfect heat level. And the Levanzo, topped with smoked mozzarella, Nebrodi<\/em> black pork (essentially fancy smoked ham), ricotta, toasted almonds and smoked olive oil. Toppings were very generous, and the pizzas were absolutely banging \u2013 especially with a glass of Etna Rosso wine.<\/p>\nSicilian-style pizzas at Schiticchio<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nPiano B<\/strong><\/h4>\nTechnically just over the bridge in mainland Siracusa, Piano B<\/a> has won various accolades for its pizza and is also part of the Slow Food movement. I particularly liked the fact that all pizzas could be made either Neapolitan-style (with pillowy, puffed-up crusts) or Roman-style (with thin & crispy crusts). So of course we ordered both! The Roman-style Parmigiana came with silky fried aubergine, buffalo mozzarella, ham and eggs, while the Neapolitan-style Margherita was simple but expertly done. We also found the perfect \u201cpizza wine\u201d: a fruity-meets-rustic Frappato-Nero d\u2019Avola blend by Cerasuolo di Vittoria.<\/p>\nWine and taglieri in Ortigia<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nA note about enotecas<\/em>: in Italy, a wine bar, a wine shop and a place where you can eat substantial snacks (i.e. dinner replacement!) are often one and the same thing \u2013 an enoteca<\/em><\/a>. All of my picks below are these kind of multi-functional wine spaces, where you can pop in for a glass or take home a bottle.<\/p>\nEvo\u00e8 Wine Bar<\/strong><\/h4>\nNext door to Jobi (see the pasta section above), Enoteca Evo\u00e8<\/a> is everything you want from a wine bar. The owner explains the wines in a way that\u2019s simple but not patronising, and there are dozens of open bottles to try \u2013 predominantly Sicilian but other regions are represented, too. And you should definitely taste some Etna wines while you\u2019re in Sicily! If you\u2019re hungry, Evo\u00e8 offers fantastic\u00a0taglieri<\/em> platters stacked with Sicilian cheeses and cured meats: highlights included donkey mortadella (yep, that\u2019s a thing), silky prosciutto, sweetly spiced porchetta and local sheep\u2019s cheese.<\/p>\nWine and taglieri at Enoteca Evo\u00e8<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nTaverna Giudecca<\/strong><\/h4>\nTiny and tucked away, Taverna Giudecca<\/a> is a simple five-table enoteca<\/em> in the Jewish Quarter. The antipasti for two could\u2019ve easily fed four: think caponata, caprese, olives and roasted vegetables on the veggie front, plus various cheeses, salami and spicy mortadella for the meat eaters. We washed it down with two different versions of Nero d\u2019Avola \u2013 one young and fruity, the other oakier and more structured \u2013 and still only paid around \u20ac25 per person.<\/p>\nAntipasti platter at Taverna Giudecca<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nEnoteca Solaria<\/strong><\/h4>\nWith a terrace that\u2019s perfect for people watching, Enoteca Solaria<\/a> has a wide selection of (mostly natural) wines by the glass \u2013 from Sicily but also further afield. I tried an Etna Bianco that was Carricante-led and reminded me of cooking apples and salted caramel, followed by a rustic Etna Rosso made from Nerello Mascalese. Snacks are simple but well executed: think bruschetta with pistachio pesto and thinly sliced lardo<\/em>. Solaria has far more wines available by the bottle, both to take home and to drink at the bar (for a \u20ac5 corkage fee).<\/p>\nCocktail bars and aperitivo hour<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nTinkit\u00e8<\/strong><\/h4>\nMy go-to local bar during our stay, I went back so many times I was on first name terms with the staff. They mix fantastic cocktails, from punchy whisky sours to citrusy margaritas to pick-me-up espresso martinis. But Tinkit\u00e8<\/a> is open pretty much all day: you can go in for a breakfast cappuccino or an afternoon snack as well. The terrace catches the afternoon sun, which was a bonus in April when temperatures weren\u2019t that high.<\/p>\nSpritz and more at bar Tinket\u00e8<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nSpritzzeria<\/strong><\/h4>\nOverlooking the Mediterranean to the west, Spritzzeria<\/a> is the ideal spot for an evening aperitivo while watching the sunset (and the people go by). A regular Aperol Spritz is only \u20ac7 (April 2025), which was the best value we found on the island. Snacks are basic (crisps and nuts) but you can\u2019t beat the view.<\/p>\nPlanning a trip to the Italian islands? Check out my <\/em>guide to Sardinian restaurants<\/em><\/a> and my <\/em>wine lover\u2019s guide to the Sardinian region of Gallura<\/em><\/a>!<\/em><\/h3>\n<\/p><\/div>\n
Right by Ortigia Market, this legendary sandwich shop makes for great people-watching while you wait for a panino<\/em> that\u2019s so big you could easily split one between two. I went for Caseificio Borderi<\/a>\u2019s smoked prosciutto with mozzarella, olives and sun-dried tomatoes, which was so generously filled that I ended up sneaking slivers of prosciutto to my dog.<\/p>\nGiant sandwiches at Caseificio Borderi<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nU\u2019Sicilianu<\/strong><\/h4>\nI became a regular at U\u2019Sicilianu<\/a> in the Jewish Quarter by the end of my trip, practising my (very basic) Italian with the lovely lady who works there. She serves everything from street food snacks like arancini and scacciate<\/em> to proper meals like lasagne and melanzane di Parmigiana<\/em> with grilled vegetables on the side. Generous, tasty and affordable, U\u2019Sicilianu became my favourite spot for a takeaway lunch or dinner.<\/p>\nBest pizza in Siracusa<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nPizzeria Schiticchio<\/strong><\/h4>\nSchiticchio<\/a> serves some of the best pizza I\u2019ve eaten in a long time, despite being down a very touristy pedestrian street. They offer both traditional Neapolitan pizzas and \u201cpizzas that represent the Sicilian territory\u201d (according to the menu) so of course we went for the latter. A lot of them feature yellow datterino<\/em> tomato sauce, which I can highly recommend: sweet and piquant. We ordered the Vulcanello, with spicy salami, stracciatella and a zingy chilli drizzle on top \u2013 the perfect heat level. And the Levanzo, topped with smoked mozzarella, Nebrodi<\/em> black pork (essentially fancy smoked ham), ricotta, toasted almonds and smoked olive oil. Toppings were very generous, and the pizzas were absolutely banging \u2013 especially with a glass of Etna Rosso wine.<\/p>\nSicilian-style pizzas at Schiticchio<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nPiano B<\/strong><\/h4>\nTechnically just over the bridge in mainland Siracusa, Piano B<\/a> has won various accolades for its pizza and is also part of the Slow Food movement. I particularly liked the fact that all pizzas could be made either Neapolitan-style (with pillowy, puffed-up crusts) or Roman-style (with thin & crispy crusts). So of course we ordered both! The Roman-style Parmigiana came with silky fried aubergine, buffalo mozzarella, ham and eggs, while the Neapolitan-style Margherita was simple but expertly done. We also found the perfect \u201cpizza wine\u201d: a fruity-meets-rustic Frappato-Nero d\u2019Avola blend by Cerasuolo di Vittoria.<\/p>\nWine and taglieri in Ortigia<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nA note about enotecas<\/em>: in Italy, a wine bar, a wine shop and a place where you can eat substantial snacks (i.e. dinner replacement!) are often one and the same thing \u2013 an enoteca<\/em><\/a>. All of my picks below are these kind of multi-functional wine spaces, where you can pop in for a glass or take home a bottle.<\/p>\nEvo\u00e8 Wine Bar<\/strong><\/h4>\nNext door to Jobi (see the pasta section above), Enoteca Evo\u00e8<\/a> is everything you want from a wine bar. The owner explains the wines in a way that\u2019s simple but not patronising, and there are dozens of open bottles to try \u2013 predominantly Sicilian but other regions are represented, too. And you should definitely taste some Etna wines while you\u2019re in Sicily! If you\u2019re hungry, Evo\u00e8 offers fantastic\u00a0taglieri<\/em> platters stacked with Sicilian cheeses and cured meats: highlights included donkey mortadella (yep, that\u2019s a thing), silky prosciutto, sweetly spiced porchetta and local sheep\u2019s cheese.<\/p>\nWine and taglieri at Enoteca Evo\u00e8<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nTaverna Giudecca<\/strong><\/h4>\nTiny and tucked away, Taverna Giudecca<\/a> is a simple five-table enoteca<\/em> in the Jewish Quarter. The antipasti for two could\u2019ve easily fed four: think caponata, caprese, olives and roasted vegetables on the veggie front, plus various cheeses, salami and spicy mortadella for the meat eaters. We washed it down with two different versions of Nero d\u2019Avola \u2013 one young and fruity, the other oakier and more structured \u2013 and still only paid around \u20ac25 per person.<\/p>\nAntipasti platter at Taverna Giudecca<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nEnoteca Solaria<\/strong><\/h4>\nWith a terrace that\u2019s perfect for people watching, Enoteca Solaria<\/a> has a wide selection of (mostly natural) wines by the glass \u2013 from Sicily but also further afield. I tried an Etna Bianco that was Carricante-led and reminded me of cooking apples and salted caramel, followed by a rustic Etna Rosso made from Nerello Mascalese. Snacks are simple but well executed: think bruschetta with pistachio pesto and thinly sliced lardo<\/em>. Solaria has far more wines available by the bottle, both to take home and to drink at the bar (for a \u20ac5 corkage fee).<\/p>\nCocktail bars and aperitivo hour<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nTinkit\u00e8<\/strong><\/h4>\nMy go-to local bar during our stay, I went back so many times I was on first name terms with the staff. They mix fantastic cocktails, from punchy whisky sours to citrusy margaritas to pick-me-up espresso martinis. But Tinkit\u00e8<\/a> is open pretty much all day: you can go in for a breakfast cappuccino or an afternoon snack as well. The terrace catches the afternoon sun, which was a bonus in April when temperatures weren\u2019t that high.<\/p>\nSpritz and more at bar Tinket\u00e8<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nSpritzzeria<\/strong><\/h4>\nOverlooking the Mediterranean to the west, Spritzzeria<\/a> is the ideal spot for an evening aperitivo while watching the sunset (and the people go by). A regular Aperol Spritz is only \u20ac7 (April 2025), which was the best value we found on the island. Snacks are basic (crisps and nuts) but you can\u2019t beat the view.<\/p>\nPlanning a trip to the Italian islands? Check out my <\/em>guide to Sardinian restaurants<\/em><\/a> and my <\/em>wine lover\u2019s guide to the Sardinian region of Gallura<\/em><\/a>!<\/em><\/h3>\n<\/p><\/div>\n
I became a regular at U\u2019Sicilianu<\/a> in the Jewish Quarter by the end of my trip, practising my (very basic) Italian with the lovely lady who works there. She serves everything from street food snacks like arancini and scacciate<\/em> to proper meals like lasagne and melanzane di Parmigiana<\/em> with grilled vegetables on the side. Generous, tasty and affordable, U\u2019Sicilianu became my favourite spot for a takeaway lunch or dinner.<\/p>\nBest pizza in Siracusa<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nPizzeria Schiticchio<\/strong><\/h4>\nSchiticchio<\/a> serves some of the best pizza I\u2019ve eaten in a long time, despite being down a very touristy pedestrian street. They offer both traditional Neapolitan pizzas and \u201cpizzas that represent the Sicilian territory\u201d (according to the menu) so of course we went for the latter. A lot of them feature yellow datterino<\/em> tomato sauce, which I can highly recommend: sweet and piquant. We ordered the Vulcanello, with spicy salami, stracciatella and a zingy chilli drizzle on top \u2013 the perfect heat level. And the Levanzo, topped with smoked mozzarella, Nebrodi<\/em> black pork (essentially fancy smoked ham), ricotta, toasted almonds and smoked olive oil. Toppings were very generous, and the pizzas were absolutely banging \u2013 especially with a glass of Etna Rosso wine.<\/p>\nSicilian-style pizzas at Schiticchio<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nPiano B<\/strong><\/h4>\nTechnically just over the bridge in mainland Siracusa, Piano B<\/a> has won various accolades for its pizza and is also part of the Slow Food movement. I particularly liked the fact that all pizzas could be made either Neapolitan-style (with pillowy, puffed-up crusts) or Roman-style (with thin & crispy crusts). So of course we ordered both! The Roman-style Parmigiana came with silky fried aubergine, buffalo mozzarella, ham and eggs, while the Neapolitan-style Margherita was simple but expertly done. We also found the perfect \u201cpizza wine\u201d: a fruity-meets-rustic Frappato-Nero d\u2019Avola blend by Cerasuolo di Vittoria.<\/p>\nWine and taglieri in Ortigia<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nA note about enotecas<\/em>: in Italy, a wine bar, a wine shop and a place where you can eat substantial snacks (i.e. dinner replacement!) are often one and the same thing \u2013 an enoteca<\/em><\/a>. All of my picks below are these kind of multi-functional wine spaces, where you can pop in for a glass or take home a bottle.<\/p>\nEvo\u00e8 Wine Bar<\/strong><\/h4>\nNext door to Jobi (see the pasta section above), Enoteca Evo\u00e8<\/a> is everything you want from a wine bar. The owner explains the wines in a way that\u2019s simple but not patronising, and there are dozens of open bottles to try \u2013 predominantly Sicilian but other regions are represented, too. And you should definitely taste some Etna wines while you\u2019re in Sicily! If you\u2019re hungry, Evo\u00e8 offers fantastic\u00a0taglieri<\/em> platters stacked with Sicilian cheeses and cured meats: highlights included donkey mortadella (yep, that\u2019s a thing), silky prosciutto, sweetly spiced porchetta and local sheep\u2019s cheese.<\/p>\nWine and taglieri at Enoteca Evo\u00e8<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nTaverna Giudecca<\/strong><\/h4>\nTiny and tucked away, Taverna Giudecca<\/a> is a simple five-table enoteca<\/em> in the Jewish Quarter. The antipasti for two could\u2019ve easily fed four: think caponata, caprese, olives and roasted vegetables on the veggie front, plus various cheeses, salami and spicy mortadella for the meat eaters. We washed it down with two different versions of Nero d\u2019Avola \u2013 one young and fruity, the other oakier and more structured \u2013 and still only paid around \u20ac25 per person.<\/p>\nAntipasti platter at Taverna Giudecca<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nEnoteca Solaria<\/strong><\/h4>\nWith a terrace that\u2019s perfect for people watching, Enoteca Solaria<\/a> has a wide selection of (mostly natural) wines by the glass \u2013 from Sicily but also further afield. I tried an Etna Bianco that was Carricante-led and reminded me of cooking apples and salted caramel, followed by a rustic Etna Rosso made from Nerello Mascalese. Snacks are simple but well executed: think bruschetta with pistachio pesto and thinly sliced lardo<\/em>. Solaria has far more wines available by the bottle, both to take home and to drink at the bar (for a \u20ac5 corkage fee).<\/p>\nCocktail bars and aperitivo hour<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nTinkit\u00e8<\/strong><\/h4>\nMy go-to local bar during our stay, I went back so many times I was on first name terms with the staff. They mix fantastic cocktails, from punchy whisky sours to citrusy margaritas to pick-me-up espresso martinis. But Tinkit\u00e8<\/a> is open pretty much all day: you can go in for a breakfast cappuccino or an afternoon snack as well. The terrace catches the afternoon sun, which was a bonus in April when temperatures weren\u2019t that high.<\/p>\nSpritz and more at bar Tinket\u00e8<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nSpritzzeria<\/strong><\/h4>\nOverlooking the Mediterranean to the west, Spritzzeria<\/a> is the ideal spot for an evening aperitivo while watching the sunset (and the people go by). A regular Aperol Spritz is only \u20ac7 (April 2025), which was the best value we found on the island. Snacks are basic (crisps and nuts) but you can\u2019t beat the view.<\/p>\nPlanning a trip to the Italian islands? Check out my <\/em>guide to Sardinian restaurants<\/em><\/a> and my <\/em>wine lover\u2019s guide to the Sardinian region of Gallura<\/em><\/a>!<\/em><\/h3>\n<\/p><\/div>\n
Schiticchio<\/a> serves some of the best pizza I\u2019ve eaten in a long time, despite being down a very touristy pedestrian street. They offer both traditional Neapolitan pizzas and \u201cpizzas that represent the Sicilian territory\u201d (according to the menu) so of course we went for the latter. A lot of them feature yellow datterino<\/em> tomato sauce, which I can highly recommend: sweet and piquant. We ordered the Vulcanello, with spicy salami, stracciatella and a zingy chilli drizzle on top \u2013 the perfect heat level. And the Levanzo, topped with smoked mozzarella, Nebrodi<\/em> black pork (essentially fancy smoked ham), ricotta, toasted almonds and smoked olive oil. Toppings were very generous, and the pizzas were absolutely banging \u2013 especially with a glass of Etna Rosso wine.<\/p>\nSicilian-style pizzas at Schiticchio<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nPiano B<\/strong><\/h4>\nTechnically just over the bridge in mainland Siracusa, Piano B<\/a> has won various accolades for its pizza and is also part of the Slow Food movement. I particularly liked the fact that all pizzas could be made either Neapolitan-style (with pillowy, puffed-up crusts) or Roman-style (with thin & crispy crusts). So of course we ordered both! The Roman-style Parmigiana came with silky fried aubergine, buffalo mozzarella, ham and eggs, while the Neapolitan-style Margherita was simple but expertly done. We also found the perfect \u201cpizza wine\u201d: a fruity-meets-rustic Frappato-Nero d\u2019Avola blend by Cerasuolo di Vittoria.<\/p>\nWine and taglieri in Ortigia<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nA note about enotecas<\/em>: in Italy, a wine bar, a wine shop and a place where you can eat substantial snacks (i.e. dinner replacement!) are often one and the same thing \u2013 an enoteca<\/em><\/a>. All of my picks below are these kind of multi-functional wine spaces, where you can pop in for a glass or take home a bottle.<\/p>\nEvo\u00e8 Wine Bar<\/strong><\/h4>\nNext door to Jobi (see the pasta section above), Enoteca Evo\u00e8<\/a> is everything you want from a wine bar. The owner explains the wines in a way that\u2019s simple but not patronising, and there are dozens of open bottles to try \u2013 predominantly Sicilian but other regions are represented, too. And you should definitely taste some Etna wines while you\u2019re in Sicily! If you\u2019re hungry, Evo\u00e8 offers fantastic\u00a0taglieri<\/em> platters stacked with Sicilian cheeses and cured meats: highlights included donkey mortadella (yep, that\u2019s a thing), silky prosciutto, sweetly spiced porchetta and local sheep\u2019s cheese.<\/p>\nWine and taglieri at Enoteca Evo\u00e8<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nTaverna Giudecca<\/strong><\/h4>\nTiny and tucked away, Taverna Giudecca<\/a> is a simple five-table enoteca<\/em> in the Jewish Quarter. The antipasti for two could\u2019ve easily fed four: think caponata, caprese, olives and roasted vegetables on the veggie front, plus various cheeses, salami and spicy mortadella for the meat eaters. We washed it down with two different versions of Nero d\u2019Avola \u2013 one young and fruity, the other oakier and more structured \u2013 and still only paid around \u20ac25 per person.<\/p>\nAntipasti platter at Taverna Giudecca<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nEnoteca Solaria<\/strong><\/h4>\nWith a terrace that\u2019s perfect for people watching, Enoteca Solaria<\/a> has a wide selection of (mostly natural) wines by the glass \u2013 from Sicily but also further afield. I tried an Etna Bianco that was Carricante-led and reminded me of cooking apples and salted caramel, followed by a rustic Etna Rosso made from Nerello Mascalese. Snacks are simple but well executed: think bruschetta with pistachio pesto and thinly sliced lardo<\/em>. Solaria has far more wines available by the bottle, both to take home and to drink at the bar (for a \u20ac5 corkage fee).<\/p>\nCocktail bars and aperitivo hour<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nTinkit\u00e8<\/strong><\/h4>\nMy go-to local bar during our stay, I went back so many times I was on first name terms with the staff. They mix fantastic cocktails, from punchy whisky sours to citrusy margaritas to pick-me-up espresso martinis. But Tinkit\u00e8<\/a> is open pretty much all day: you can go in for a breakfast cappuccino or an afternoon snack as well. The terrace catches the afternoon sun, which was a bonus in April when temperatures weren\u2019t that high.<\/p>\nSpritz and more at bar Tinket\u00e8<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nSpritzzeria<\/strong><\/h4>\nOverlooking the Mediterranean to the west, Spritzzeria<\/a> is the ideal spot for an evening aperitivo while watching the sunset (and the people go by). A regular Aperol Spritz is only \u20ac7 (April 2025), which was the best value we found on the island. Snacks are basic (crisps and nuts) but you can\u2019t beat the view.<\/p>\nPlanning a trip to the Italian islands? Check out my <\/em>guide to Sardinian restaurants<\/em><\/a> and my <\/em>wine lover\u2019s guide to the Sardinian region of Gallura<\/em><\/a>!<\/em><\/h3>\n<\/p><\/div>\n
Technically just over the bridge in mainland Siracusa, Piano B<\/a> has won various accolades for its pizza and is also part of the Slow Food movement. I particularly liked the fact that all pizzas could be made either Neapolitan-style (with pillowy, puffed-up crusts) or Roman-style (with thin & crispy crusts). So of course we ordered both! The Roman-style Parmigiana came with silky fried aubergine, buffalo mozzarella, ham and eggs, while the Neapolitan-style Margherita was simple but expertly done. We also found the perfect \u201cpizza wine\u201d: a fruity-meets-rustic Frappato-Nero d\u2019Avola blend by Cerasuolo di Vittoria.<\/p>\nWine and taglieri in Ortigia<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nA note about enotecas<\/em>: in Italy, a wine bar, a wine shop and a place where you can eat substantial snacks (i.e. dinner replacement!) are often one and the same thing \u2013 an enoteca<\/em><\/a>. All of my picks below are these kind of multi-functional wine spaces, where you can pop in for a glass or take home a bottle.<\/p>\nEvo\u00e8 Wine Bar<\/strong><\/h4>\nNext door to Jobi (see the pasta section above), Enoteca Evo\u00e8<\/a> is everything you want from a wine bar. The owner explains the wines in a way that\u2019s simple but not patronising, and there are dozens of open bottles to try \u2013 predominantly Sicilian but other regions are represented, too. And you should definitely taste some Etna wines while you\u2019re in Sicily! If you\u2019re hungry, Evo\u00e8 offers fantastic\u00a0taglieri<\/em> platters stacked with Sicilian cheeses and cured meats: highlights included donkey mortadella (yep, that\u2019s a thing), silky prosciutto, sweetly spiced porchetta and local sheep\u2019s cheese.<\/p>\nWine and taglieri at Enoteca Evo\u00e8<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nTaverna Giudecca<\/strong><\/h4>\nTiny and tucked away, Taverna Giudecca<\/a> is a simple five-table enoteca<\/em> in the Jewish Quarter. The antipasti for two could\u2019ve easily fed four: think caponata, caprese, olives and roasted vegetables on the veggie front, plus various cheeses, salami and spicy mortadella for the meat eaters. We washed it down with two different versions of Nero d\u2019Avola \u2013 one young and fruity, the other oakier and more structured \u2013 and still only paid around \u20ac25 per person.<\/p>\nAntipasti platter at Taverna Giudecca<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nEnoteca Solaria<\/strong><\/h4>\nWith a terrace that\u2019s perfect for people watching, Enoteca Solaria<\/a> has a wide selection of (mostly natural) wines by the glass \u2013 from Sicily but also further afield. I tried an Etna Bianco that was Carricante-led and reminded me of cooking apples and salted caramel, followed by a rustic Etna Rosso made from Nerello Mascalese. Snacks are simple but well executed: think bruschetta with pistachio pesto and thinly sliced lardo<\/em>. Solaria has far more wines available by the bottle, both to take home and to drink at the bar (for a \u20ac5 corkage fee).<\/p>\nCocktail bars and aperitivo hour<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nTinkit\u00e8<\/strong><\/h4>\nMy go-to local bar during our stay, I went back so many times I was on first name terms with the staff. They mix fantastic cocktails, from punchy whisky sours to citrusy margaritas to pick-me-up espresso martinis. But Tinkit\u00e8<\/a> is open pretty much all day: you can go in for a breakfast cappuccino or an afternoon snack as well. The terrace catches the afternoon sun, which was a bonus in April when temperatures weren\u2019t that high.<\/p>\nSpritz and more at bar Tinket\u00e8<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nSpritzzeria<\/strong><\/h4>\nOverlooking the Mediterranean to the west, Spritzzeria<\/a> is the ideal spot for an evening aperitivo while watching the sunset (and the people go by). A regular Aperol Spritz is only \u20ac7 (April 2025), which was the best value we found on the island. Snacks are basic (crisps and nuts) but you can\u2019t beat the view.<\/p>\nPlanning a trip to the Italian islands? Check out my <\/em>guide to Sardinian restaurants<\/em><\/a> and my <\/em>wine lover\u2019s guide to the Sardinian region of Gallura<\/em><\/a>!<\/em><\/h3>\n<\/p><\/div>\n
A note about enotecas<\/em>: in Italy, a wine bar, a wine shop and a place where you can eat substantial snacks (i.e. dinner replacement!) are often one and the same thing \u2013 an enoteca<\/em><\/a>. All of my picks below are these kind of multi-functional wine spaces, where you can pop in for a glass or take home a bottle.<\/p>\nEvo\u00e8 Wine Bar<\/strong><\/h4>\nNext door to Jobi (see the pasta section above), Enoteca Evo\u00e8<\/a> is everything you want from a wine bar. The owner explains the wines in a way that\u2019s simple but not patronising, and there are dozens of open bottles to try \u2013 predominantly Sicilian but other regions are represented, too. And you should definitely taste some Etna wines while you\u2019re in Sicily! If you\u2019re hungry, Evo\u00e8 offers fantastic\u00a0taglieri<\/em> platters stacked with Sicilian cheeses and cured meats: highlights included donkey mortadella (yep, that\u2019s a thing), silky prosciutto, sweetly spiced porchetta and local sheep\u2019s cheese.<\/p>\nWine and taglieri at Enoteca Evo\u00e8<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nTaverna Giudecca<\/strong><\/h4>\nTiny and tucked away, Taverna Giudecca<\/a> is a simple five-table enoteca<\/em> in the Jewish Quarter. The antipasti for two could\u2019ve easily fed four: think caponata, caprese, olives and roasted vegetables on the veggie front, plus various cheeses, salami and spicy mortadella for the meat eaters. We washed it down with two different versions of Nero d\u2019Avola \u2013 one young and fruity, the other oakier and more structured \u2013 and still only paid around \u20ac25 per person.<\/p>\nAntipasti platter at Taverna Giudecca<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nEnoteca Solaria<\/strong><\/h4>\nWith a terrace that\u2019s perfect for people watching, Enoteca Solaria<\/a> has a wide selection of (mostly natural) wines by the glass \u2013 from Sicily but also further afield. I tried an Etna Bianco that was Carricante-led and reminded me of cooking apples and salted caramel, followed by a rustic Etna Rosso made from Nerello Mascalese. Snacks are simple but well executed: think bruschetta with pistachio pesto and thinly sliced lardo<\/em>. Solaria has far more wines available by the bottle, both to take home and to drink at the bar (for a \u20ac5 corkage fee).<\/p>\nCocktail bars and aperitivo hour<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nTinkit\u00e8<\/strong><\/h4>\nMy go-to local bar during our stay, I went back so many times I was on first name terms with the staff. They mix fantastic cocktails, from punchy whisky sours to citrusy margaritas to pick-me-up espresso martinis. But Tinkit\u00e8<\/a> is open pretty much all day: you can go in for a breakfast cappuccino or an afternoon snack as well. The terrace catches the afternoon sun, which was a bonus in April when temperatures weren\u2019t that high.<\/p>\nSpritz and more at bar Tinket\u00e8<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nSpritzzeria<\/strong><\/h4>\nOverlooking the Mediterranean to the west, Spritzzeria<\/a> is the ideal spot for an evening aperitivo while watching the sunset (and the people go by). A regular Aperol Spritz is only \u20ac7 (April 2025), which was the best value we found on the island. Snacks are basic (crisps and nuts) but you can\u2019t beat the view.<\/p>\nPlanning a trip to the Italian islands? Check out my <\/em>guide to Sardinian restaurants<\/em><\/a> and my <\/em>wine lover\u2019s guide to the Sardinian region of Gallura<\/em><\/a>!<\/em><\/h3>\n<\/p><\/div>\n
Next door to Jobi (see the pasta section above), Enoteca Evo\u00e8<\/a> is everything you want from a wine bar. The owner explains the wines in a way that\u2019s simple but not patronising, and there are dozens of open bottles to try \u2013 predominantly Sicilian but other regions are represented, too. And you should definitely taste some Etna wines while you\u2019re in Sicily! If you\u2019re hungry, Evo\u00e8 offers fantastic\u00a0taglieri<\/em> platters stacked with Sicilian cheeses and cured meats: highlights included donkey mortadella (yep, that\u2019s a thing), silky prosciutto, sweetly spiced porchetta and local sheep\u2019s cheese.<\/p>\nWine and taglieri at Enoteca Evo\u00e8<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nTaverna Giudecca<\/strong><\/h4>\nTiny and tucked away, Taverna Giudecca<\/a> is a simple five-table enoteca<\/em> in the Jewish Quarter. The antipasti for two could\u2019ve easily fed four: think caponata, caprese, olives and roasted vegetables on the veggie front, plus various cheeses, salami and spicy mortadella for the meat eaters. We washed it down with two different versions of Nero d\u2019Avola \u2013 one young and fruity, the other oakier and more structured \u2013 and still only paid around \u20ac25 per person.<\/p>\nAntipasti platter at Taverna Giudecca<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nEnoteca Solaria<\/strong><\/h4>\nWith a terrace that\u2019s perfect for people watching, Enoteca Solaria<\/a> has a wide selection of (mostly natural) wines by the glass \u2013 from Sicily but also further afield. I tried an Etna Bianco that was Carricante-led and reminded me of cooking apples and salted caramel, followed by a rustic Etna Rosso made from Nerello Mascalese. Snacks are simple but well executed: think bruschetta with pistachio pesto and thinly sliced lardo<\/em>. Solaria has far more wines available by the bottle, both to take home and to drink at the bar (for a \u20ac5 corkage fee).<\/p>\nCocktail bars and aperitivo hour<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nTinkit\u00e8<\/strong><\/h4>\nMy go-to local bar during our stay, I went back so many times I was on first name terms with the staff. They mix fantastic cocktails, from punchy whisky sours to citrusy margaritas to pick-me-up espresso martinis. But Tinkit\u00e8<\/a> is open pretty much all day: you can go in for a breakfast cappuccino or an afternoon snack as well. The terrace catches the afternoon sun, which was a bonus in April when temperatures weren\u2019t that high.<\/p>\nSpritz and more at bar Tinket\u00e8<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nSpritzzeria<\/strong><\/h4>\nOverlooking the Mediterranean to the west, Spritzzeria<\/a> is the ideal spot for an evening aperitivo while watching the sunset (and the people go by). A regular Aperol Spritz is only \u20ac7 (April 2025), which was the best value we found on the island. Snacks are basic (crisps and nuts) but you can\u2019t beat the view.<\/p>\nPlanning a trip to the Italian islands? Check out my <\/em>guide to Sardinian restaurants<\/em><\/a> and my <\/em>wine lover\u2019s guide to the Sardinian region of Gallura<\/em><\/a>!<\/em><\/h3>\n<\/p><\/div>\n
Tiny and tucked away, Taverna Giudecca<\/a> is a simple five-table enoteca<\/em> in the Jewish Quarter. The antipasti for two could\u2019ve easily fed four: think caponata, caprese, olives and roasted vegetables on the veggie front, plus various cheeses, salami and spicy mortadella for the meat eaters. We washed it down with two different versions of Nero d\u2019Avola \u2013 one young and fruity, the other oakier and more structured \u2013 and still only paid around \u20ac25 per person.<\/p>\nAntipasti platter at Taverna Giudecca<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nEnoteca Solaria<\/strong><\/h4>\nWith a terrace that\u2019s perfect for people watching, Enoteca Solaria<\/a> has a wide selection of (mostly natural) wines by the glass \u2013 from Sicily but also further afield. I tried an Etna Bianco that was Carricante-led and reminded me of cooking apples and salted caramel, followed by a rustic Etna Rosso made from Nerello Mascalese. Snacks are simple but well executed: think bruschetta with pistachio pesto and thinly sliced lardo<\/em>. Solaria has far more wines available by the bottle, both to take home and to drink at the bar (for a \u20ac5 corkage fee).<\/p>\nCocktail bars and aperitivo hour<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nTinkit\u00e8<\/strong><\/h4>\nMy go-to local bar during our stay, I went back so many times I was on first name terms with the staff. They mix fantastic cocktails, from punchy whisky sours to citrusy margaritas to pick-me-up espresso martinis. But Tinkit\u00e8<\/a> is open pretty much all day: you can go in for a breakfast cappuccino or an afternoon snack as well. The terrace catches the afternoon sun, which was a bonus in April when temperatures weren\u2019t that high.<\/p>\nSpritz and more at bar Tinket\u00e8<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nSpritzzeria<\/strong><\/h4>\nOverlooking the Mediterranean to the west, Spritzzeria<\/a> is the ideal spot for an evening aperitivo while watching the sunset (and the people go by). A regular Aperol Spritz is only \u20ac7 (April 2025), which was the best value we found on the island. Snacks are basic (crisps and nuts) but you can\u2019t beat the view.<\/p>\nPlanning a trip to the Italian islands? Check out my <\/em>guide to Sardinian restaurants<\/em><\/a> and my <\/em>wine lover\u2019s guide to the Sardinian region of Gallura<\/em><\/a>!<\/em><\/h3>\n<\/p><\/div>\n
With a terrace that\u2019s perfect for people watching, Enoteca Solaria<\/a> has a wide selection of (mostly natural) wines by the glass \u2013 from Sicily but also further afield. I tried an Etna Bianco that was Carricante-led and reminded me of cooking apples and salted caramel, followed by a rustic Etna Rosso made from Nerello Mascalese. Snacks are simple but well executed: think bruschetta with pistachio pesto and thinly sliced lardo<\/em>. Solaria has far more wines available by the bottle, both to take home and to drink at the bar (for a \u20ac5 corkage fee).<\/p>\nCocktail bars and aperitivo hour<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\nTinkit\u00e8<\/strong><\/h4>\nMy go-to local bar during our stay, I went back so many times I was on first name terms with the staff. They mix fantastic cocktails, from punchy whisky sours to citrusy margaritas to pick-me-up espresso martinis. But Tinkit\u00e8<\/a> is open pretty much all day: you can go in for a breakfast cappuccino or an afternoon snack as well. The terrace catches the afternoon sun, which was a bonus in April when temperatures weren\u2019t that high.<\/p>\nSpritz and more at bar Tinket\u00e8<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nSpritzzeria<\/strong><\/h4>\nOverlooking the Mediterranean to the west, Spritzzeria<\/a> is the ideal spot for an evening aperitivo while watching the sunset (and the people go by). A regular Aperol Spritz is only \u20ac7 (April 2025), which was the best value we found on the island. Snacks are basic (crisps and nuts) but you can\u2019t beat the view.<\/p>\nPlanning a trip to the Italian islands? Check out my <\/em>guide to Sardinian restaurants<\/em><\/a> and my <\/em>wine lover\u2019s guide to the Sardinian region of Gallura<\/em><\/a>!<\/em><\/h3>\n<\/p><\/div>\n
My go-to local bar during our stay, I went back so many times I was on first name terms with the staff. They mix fantastic cocktails, from punchy whisky sours to citrusy margaritas to pick-me-up espresso martinis. But Tinkit\u00e8<\/a> is open pretty much all day: you can go in for a breakfast cappuccino or an afternoon snack as well. The terrace catches the afternoon sun, which was a bonus in April when temperatures weren\u2019t that high.<\/p>\nSpritz and more at bar Tinket\u00e8<\/figcaption><\/figure>\nSpritzzeria<\/strong><\/h4>\nOverlooking the Mediterranean to the west, Spritzzeria<\/a> is the ideal spot for an evening aperitivo while watching the sunset (and the people go by). A regular Aperol Spritz is only \u20ac7 (April 2025), which was the best value we found on the island. Snacks are basic (crisps and nuts) but you can\u2019t beat the view.<\/p>\nPlanning a trip to the Italian islands? Check out my <\/em>guide to Sardinian restaurants<\/em><\/a> and my <\/em>wine lover\u2019s guide to the Sardinian region of Gallura<\/em><\/a>!<\/em><\/h3>\n<\/p><\/div>\n
Overlooking the Mediterranean to the west, Spritzzeria<\/a> is the ideal spot for an evening aperitivo while watching the sunset (and the people go by). A regular Aperol Spritz is only \u20ac7 (April 2025), which was the best value we found on the island. Snacks are basic (crisps and nuts) but you can\u2019t beat the view.<\/p>\nPlanning a trip to the Italian islands? Check out my <\/em>guide to Sardinian restaurants<\/em><\/a> and my <\/em>wine lover\u2019s guide to the Sardinian region of Gallura<\/em><\/a>!<\/em><\/h3>\n<\/p><\/div>\n