{"id":199164,"date":"2025-04-22T18:36:33","date_gmt":"2025-04-22T18:36:33","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/peraltafinancing.com\/recipes\/category-a-b\/beer\/donkey-work-on-brasserie-de-la-mule\/"},"modified":"2025-04-22T18:36:33","modified_gmt":"2025-04-22T18:36:33","slug":"donkey-work-on-brasserie-de-la-mule","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/fivemor.com\/?p=199164","title":{"rendered":"Donkey Work \u2014 On Brasserie de la Mule\u00a0"},"content":{"rendered":"


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How stubborn do you have to be to brew German style beers in Belgium\u2014and be successful? To wrestle for years with Brussels bureaucrats? To host heavy metal concerts in an old tram shed? Jo\u00ebl Galy, quietly punkish, Swedish-born and Belgian-raised, should know. The former Brasserie de la Senne brewer is possessed of a t\u00eate de mule<\/em>.\u00a0
<\/strong><\/h4>\n
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This editorially independent story has been supported by VISITFLANDERS<\/strong> as part of the \u201cNew Arrivals\u201d series<\/em>.<\/em><\/h5>\n<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

I.\u00a0<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Steamboat<\/strong><\/h3>\n

T<\/span>here\u2019s a scene early on in the 1982 movie Fitzcarraldo where Klaus Kinski\u2019s bug-eyed lead, a would-be rubber baron named Brian Sweeney Fitzgerald\u2014or \u201cFitzcarraldo\u201d\u2014tries to explain why he needs money in the Andes mountains.\u00a0<\/p>\n

The scene reveals his monomania, his obsessive preoccupation with a singular thing: \u201cBecause I have one dream,\u201d Fitzcarraldo says of his mission. \u201cThe great opera in the jungle.\u201d\u00a0<\/p>\n

Fitzcarraldo\u2019s dream of introducing European high culture to a remote Amazonian trading post involves, among other things, hauling a 320-ton steamboat over a steep hill separating two rivers. Belgian brewer Jo\u00ebl Galy may not share Kinski\u2019s mania, and his dream\u2014introducing German beer styles to Brussels in a neighbourhood brewery and taproom\u2014was less outlandish. But the pair do share a persuasive glint in the eye, the same near-quixotic, evangelical passion. A t\u00eate de mule<\/em>, Galy calls it, a mulish determination.\u00a0<\/p>\n

You need to be stubborn, pig-headed, if you have\u2014like Kinski\u2019s Fitzcarraldo\u2014a grandiose dream. As Galy was to find out too, a t\u00eate de mule<\/em> comes in handy when you\u2019re trying to get anything done\u00a0in the complicated chaos that is Belgium\u2019s capital city.<\/p>\n

<\/p>\n

In the Spring of 2020, Galy and two close friends were as close as they had ever come to finally opening the brewery they\u2019d been working on for several years. It had a name\u2014Brasserie de la Mule\u2014and a logo. Galy had financing and a business plan. They knew what they were going to brew and the equipment they would use was on order. They\u2019d even begun demolition works at the site they\u2019d secured for the project\u2014an abandoned tram shed in Brussels\u2019 Schaarbeek neighbourhood. But as the pandemic summer ticked over into autumn, their sure thing was becoming not so sure.\u00a0<\/p>\n

Rolling Covid-19 lockdowns were playing havoc with Brussels\u2019 hospitality industry, raising question marks about the viability of new projects. Galy\u2019s landlords, never the easiest to work with, had gone worryingly cold on the prospect of hosting a brewery. Galy was staring down the prospect of taking delivery of a new brewhouse but having nowhere to put it. He\u2019d been here before. Two years previously this same trio had embarked on a similar project, in another part of the city, only to see it collapse at an even earlier stage. Though now tantalisingly within reach, maybe Mule was doomed to failure too.\u00a0
But Jo\u00ebl Galy is possessed of a t\u00eate de mule<\/em>, a stubborn streak hidden beneath an easy affability. Now he had to put it to work. In Brussels, to get things done, sometimes you have to roll up your sleeves and push that boat up the hill.<\/p>\n

\"Brasserie\"Brasserie<\/a><\/figure>\n

II.\u00a0<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Mother\u2019s Milk<\/strong><\/h3>\n

J<\/span>\u00f6el Galy is Swedish born but Brussels raised. He speaks Swedish, and still regularly visits his grandfather\u2019s wooden cabin in the forested area of Sm\u00e5land in Sweden\u2019s south-east. Galy\u2019s father was a French wine importer from Perpignan, and his mother was, in addition to being a trained biochemist, in the vanguard of the Swedish homebrewing movement before she moved with an infant Galy to Brussels.\u00a0<\/p>\n

Sweden, like its next door neighbour Norway, has a notoriously censorious attitude to alcohol sales. Supermarkets are only allowed to sell Folk\u00f6l<\/em>, \u201cPeople\u2019s beer\u201d, with a maximum alcohol content of 3.5% ABV. Until Sweden joined the EU in 1995, the strength of Stark\u00f6l <\/em>(\u201cstrong beer\u201d) sold in the state monopoly alcohol stores was capped at 5.6%. Homebrewing was a way around these restrictions for people who wanted to drink stronger beers, and Galy\u2019s mother helped found the Swedish association of homebrewers. \u201cMost of her brewing was done largely before I was born, and after I moved out when I was older,\u201d Galy says, though he remembers his childhood home having plenty of homebrewing equipment lying around.<\/p>\n

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\"Brasserie\"Brasserie<\/a><\/figure>\n
\"Brasserie\"Brasserie<\/a><\/figure>\n
\"Brasserie\"Brasserie<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n

Despite this maternal influence, Galy\u2019s teenage tastes leaned to the cheap and cheerful as a teenager. \u201cMy first beer was probably a shitty can of Jupiler,\u201d he admits, probably drunk while he immersed himself in Brussels\u2019 hardcore and punk scenes that centred around the city\u2019s squatter community. \u201cSchool didn\u2019t really work for me or I didn\u2019t really work with school,\u201d Galy says, but he didn\u2019t let that get in his way, and began working in hospitality as soon as he had finished.\u00a0<\/p>\n

It was then, in the course of long bar shifts, that his latent interest in beer and brewing was reawakened by exposure to beers from Brasserie de la Senne, Brouwerij De Ranke and other breweries leading Belgium\u2019s brewing revival in the 2000s. Serving the beers wasn\u2019t enough for him, and with his mother\u2019s homebrewing history in the back of his mind, Galy wanted to know more: \u201cI wanted to go further upstream, closer to the source.\u201d\u00a0<\/p>\n

III.\u00a0<\/strong><\/h2>\n

School of Hard Knocks<\/strong><\/strong><\/h3>\n

A<\/span>t that time in Brussels, in the early 2010s, there were only two places where you could touch a commercial brewing system. Brasserie Cantillon, run by the Van Roy family and making Lambic, Brussels\u2019 indigenous, spontaneously-fermented beer style. And Brasserie de la Senne, founded by Bruxellois pair Bernard Lebouq and Yvan De Baets in 2002. The pair had recently returned their brewing activities to the city after a nomadic existence brewing their beers\u2014Zinnebir, Taras Boulba, Jambe de Bois\u2014on other people\u2019s equipment while building up enough money to open their own facility in Molenbeek in 2010.\u00a0<\/p>\n

By 2014, when he knocked on Brasserie de la Senne\u2019s front door looking for a job, Galy the bartender knew their work well. \u201cI [also] knew they were short-staffed, but that they couldn\u2019t afford to hire anyone,\u201d he says. There was another snag too. He wasn\u2019t a brewer. \u201cI think I\u2019d only homebrewed maybe 20 times in my life.\u201d<\/p>\n

De Baets remembers Galy\u2019s arrival at the brewery, showing up uninvited with a client of the brewery\u2014whose daughter Galy happened to be dating. They had a chat, a deal was reached, and a month-long traineeship for Galy became three months, which became a permanent position. \u201cHe [brought] a very positive energy,\u201d says De Baets, curiosity and drive compensating for Galy\u2019s lack of technical background. \u201cHe is [also] serious. When you brew, you should be extremely focussed. He had those qualities.\u201d<\/p>\n

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\"Brasserie\"Brasserie<\/a><\/figure>\n
\"Brasserie\"Brasserie<\/a><\/figure>\n
\"Brasserie\"Brasserie<\/a><\/figure>\n
\"Brasserie\"Brasserie<\/a><\/figure>\n
\"Brasserie\"Brasserie<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n

Zinnebir was Galy\u2019s first solo brew, and soon he was helping to design recipes, programming the brew schedule, choosing raw materials, and representing the brewery at festivals in Belgium and abroad. It was as good a brewer\u2019s finishing school as he could hope for, and Galy eagerly absorbed de la Senne\u2019s ethos. \u201cWhat did I learn at de la Senne? Respect for authenticity,\u201d Galy says. \u201cThe [importance of] the quality of the raw materials, and letting them speak for themselves. And the importance of balance in a beer.\u201d\u00a0<\/p>\n

He also admired the brewery\u2019s visual identity, in a culture that was still agnostic about, even hostile to, branding. Brasserie de la Senne worked almost from the beginning with Leboucq\u2019s cousin, comics illustrator and teacher Jean Goovaerts, developing an immediately recognisable house style centred on bright colours and Brussels iconography filtered through a range of influences from Russian suprematism to Art Deco and Ukrainian folk tales.<\/p>\n

There were fat years for De la Senne, growing production some years by 30% as new clients discovered their beers and dropped into the brewery to pick up crates and kegs for their bars. Galy often hung around at the end of a shift for a chat, getting to know these customers. Jean-Yves Horn, universally known in Brussels hospitality circles as Jyve, was one such regular. But before he became one third of the Brasserie de la Mule triumvirate, he was working at a bar a couple of kilometres away in Jette, calling in for kegs of Zinnebir and Taras Boulba before the weekend rush, and stopping for a beer with the brewery team. \u201cPetit \u00e1 petit<\/em>, we became friends,\u201d he says. \u201cI think it\u2019s complicated to be Jo\u00ebl\u2019s enemy.\u201d\u00a0<\/p>\n

IV.\u00a0<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Magasin 4<\/strong><\/strong><\/h3>\n

B<\/span>orn in Brussels, Jean-Yves Horn\u2019s parents uprooted him as a child and moved to rural Belgium. The teenage Horn spent his formative years plotting his homecoming to the capital city. \u201cAs soon as I could get a car, I was [back] in Brussels,\u201d he says, returning after high school to study to become a chef. A series of bar jobs followed before he was given the reins of a neighbourhood student pub near the Jette train station in suburban Brussels.<\/p>\n

\"Brasserie\"Brasserie<\/a><\/figure>\n

\u201cThe Gele Poraa<\/em> was sad and bad in those days,\u201d he says of the bar he started managing in the early 2010s. Horn did everything at the Gele<\/em>\u2014cleaning, opening, closing, community management, police liaison: \u201cWhen you\u2019ve worked there, you can work anywhere.\u201d<\/p>\n

Beer, Horn decided, would be key to his plan to revive the bar. He started local, stocking Cantillon and de la Senne in the bar\u2019s tiny cellar, and then plugging into Brussels\u2019 embryonic brewing resurgence\u2014hosting events for the new wave of Brussels breweries, including En Stoemelings, L\u2019Ermitage, and La Source. \u201cWhen the going was good, I had more than 108 different beers\u201d on the menu, he says. \u201cI had a lot of beer and a very small fridge, so I had a lot of turnover to do.\u201d Which meant regular trips around Brussels to buy beer.\u00a0<\/p>\n

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\"Brasserie\"Brasserie<\/a><\/figure>\n
\"Brasserie\"Brasserie<\/a><\/figure>\n
\"Brasserie\"Brasserie<\/a><\/figure>\n
\"Brasserie\"Brasserie<\/a><\/figure>\n
\"Brasserie\"Brasserie<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n

Enter Galy, and sessions in de la Senne\u2019s draughty brewery bar bonding over their shared musical interests\u2014Horn was big into metal and punk, and was frustrated that the Gele<\/em> was too small to really host proper gigs.\u00a0<\/p>\n

The pair were both patrons\u2014Galy was also a volunteer\u2014of Brussels\u2019 alternative music venue Magasin 4 which overlapped with the same anarchic, counter-cultural crowd out of which Brasserie de la Senne had emerged a decade previously. The concert hall attracted a subset of people from the beer industry\u2014Galy and Horn, but also people like Antoine Pierson, who opened the Malt Attacks beer shop in 2014 in Sint Gillis; and Maxime Dumay, who launched Brasserie No Science in 2016 in Laken.\u00a0<\/p>\n

Dumay was a volunteer at Magasin 4 and regularly dragged along a friend of his to concerts, a French illustrator called Ammo, a relatively recent arrival in Brussels who was falling in love with the city\u2019s beer scene\u2014and was about to become the third leg of the La Mule stool.\u00a0<\/p>\n

V.<\/strong>\u00a0<\/h2>\n

Quick Draw<\/strong><\/h3>\n

B<\/span>efore moving to Brussels in 2009, Gascony native Amaury Dastarac\u2014A.K.A Ammo\u2014was living in Bordeaux designing gig posters for the local hardcore, punk, and heavy metal scene while working on personal comic book projects in his spare time. <\/p>\n

From a family of artists, he\u2019d always had a pencil in his hand. His highly detailed music artwork was hand-drawn with a mechanical pencil and reflected the influence of Japanese manga, English comic artists like Dave Mackin and Simon Beasley, and the dense, heavily detailed wood-engravings of biblical scenes featuring crucifixions, avenging angels, and dramatic skies of 19th century French artist Gustave Dor\u00e9.<\/p>\n

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\"Brasserie\"Brasserie<\/a><\/figure>\n
\"Brasserie\"Brasserie<\/a><\/figure>\n
\"Brasserie\"Brasserie<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n

Despite knowing little about Brussels, a chance visit to the city in 2009 convinced Ammo to move. He was drawn by the good food, the good beer, and good music venues. Brussels\u2019 proximity to Germany, England, and the Netherlands meant there was plenty of work going designing posters for touring bands and music venues. It wasn\u2019t long after his arrival that Ammo began illustrating posters for Magasin 4, where he met Maxime Dumay and others in Brussels\u2019 small beer community.\u00a0<\/p>\n

Announcing, several years later, his intention to open a brewery across the road from Magasin 4, Dumay wanted his Brasserie No Science to share the venue\u2019s aesthetic, recruiting a stable of illustrators of which Ammo was one. \u201cAt this period it was only de la Senne with a strong, coherent, and cool design,\u201d Ammo says. \u201cBut Max came to me and he said, \u2018I like your work, draw something. It\u2019s going to be heavy\u2026 a porter, it will be dark.\u2019 [So] I leant into a heavy metal typographical influence.\u201d\u00a0<\/p>\n

The result was No Science\u2019s Heavy Porter, released in October 2016 and Ammo\u2019s first beer label. More labels followed for No Science, and Ammo\u2019s work eventually drew the attention of both Brouwerij De Ranke and Cantillon, who hired the illustrator to design labels for limited-release beers before going on to unleash Ammo on redefining their established brands. Ammo enjoyed creating beer labels for Cantillon, De Ranke, and others, but suffered from a nagging idea that it might be more fun to get in with a brewery at the ground floor, helping them to design their identity from first principles.\u00a0<\/p>\n

\"Brasserie\"Brasserie<\/a><\/figure>\n

Galy and Ammo would frequently cross paths around this time, at Magasin 4 or at the Moeder Lambic bar in St Gilles. Galy would often call up the Frenchman to join him in Molenbeek for a post-brew day beer. Or on occasion, beers.\u00a0<\/p>\n

Ammo remembers one particular session, in the late summer of 2018. Galy was in luck; Ammo\u2019s family was out of town, so he was free from the early afternoon. First came beers at the brewery, then a squat party and a late-night gig, after which Ammo was bundled into a cab and home to bed, remembering little of their exertions when he woke up the next morning. Except he did remember one thing Galy had said to him. The brewer had decided it was time to strike out on his own, and Ammo was going to be the man behind this new brewery\u2019s look.<\/p>\n

\"Brasserie\"Brasserie<\/a><\/figure>\n

VI.\u00a0<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Life During Wartime<\/strong><\/h3>\n

G<\/span>aly had been ruminating about a solo endeavour for some time. In 2016 Brasserie de la Senne had announced plans to build a larger, purpose-built facility close to Magasin 4 at the Tour & Taxis complex. As the skeleton of the new building began to emerge in early 2018, Galy had come to a realisation: he wasn\u2019t going to join his colleagues on their new adventure. The new brewery would be more automated, less hands-on. \u201cI\u2019m a tactile brewer. I like to be able to run in among the tanks, and tweak a knob or pull a handle, to feel connected to the equipment and the process,\u201d he says.\u00a0<\/p>\n

De la Senne\u2019s imminent move meant their Molenbeek site would be lying idle, and Galy spotted his chance. He could take it over, or a part of it at least, opening a brewery that was not just a brewery but a community hub, a neighbourhood brewpub carrying forward de la Senne\u2019s ethos of quality raw materials, authenticity, and a strong visual identity.\u00a0<\/p>\n

Jean-Yves Horn didn\u2019t need much convincing when Galy pitched him the idea, having come to a realisation of his own that he couldn\u2019t continue to grind himself down at the Gele Poraa<\/em>. After that initial drunken pitch, Ammo was in too. As Brasserie de la Senne prepared to vacate their first Brussels home in Molenbeek, the trio were all set to go. Right up until they weren\u2019t. The idea never moved forward, due to what the trio describe as personal and professional circumstances. None of the three were keen on sharing more details, saying simply that they\u2019d prefer not to rehash the experience. Whatever happened, it forced the trio to go their separate ways.<\/p>\n

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\"Brasserie\"Brasserie<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n

Horn took time off before landing shifts at Cantillon\u2019s bar and a Molenbeek restaurant. Ammo continued his teaching and illustration work while also designing a Belgian beer-themed board game. Galy departed de la Senne in late-2019, and before he did he called on Ammo for one last job.\u00a0<\/p>\n

Galy had convinced De Baets to let him brew a valedictory beer at de la Senne\u2014a German-style Hefeweizen\u2014and to bring Ammo in for the artwork. Released in November 2019, Weisse was Galy\u2019s first professional foray into German beer styles and had a label marrying Ammo\u2019s exuberantly detailed line drawings with de la Senne\u2019s boisterous colour palette. He left for a winter brewing season at Brasserie Cantillon ahead of a planned move in the following Spring to work at a brewery 500km outside Mexico city, on the other side of the planet.<\/p>\n

Only Galy never made it to Mexico. In early 2020 the world shut down. Covid-19 overwhelmed northern Europe, with Belgium entering a months-long lockdown and international travel cancelled. Horn got work in a catering kitchen, Ammo\u2019s poster work evaporated, and Galy worked briefly as a postman to make ends meet. It was uncertain when Belgium\u2019s caf\u00e9s and bars would reopen, threatening the viability of many of the country\u2019s breweries, and what state they would be in if they did. But Galy just couldn\u2019t let go of his dream of a neighbourhood brewery of his own.\u00a0<\/p>\n

One evening, over a beer, Galy told Horn his Mexican adventure wasn\u2019t happening, and Horn mentioned to Galy in passing that his then-girlfriend was working with the owner of a building across town in search of a tenant. It wasn\u2019t long before Ammo\u2019s phone was buzzing. \u201cJo\u00ebl said, \u2018I\u2019ve had a vision\u2019. Okay man, what was it? Did you buy LSD or what?\u2019\u201d Ammo remembers. \u201cWe have to work on something. I have a really nice place, where we can dream [big],\u201d Galy told his friend. \u201cMexico is over.\u201d Something new was coming. And, Ammo asked, did this new \u201csomething\u201d already have a name? It did, said Galy: Brasserie de la Mule.<\/p>\n

VII.\u00a0<\/strong><\/h2>\n

No Geeks Policy<\/strong><\/h3>\n

J<\/span>o\u00ebl Galy had spent a lot of time thinking about what form his brewery would take. There would be a hint of his mother\u2019s DIY ethos, but it would also be modern. Compact enough to allow Galy to continue to get his hands dirty, but big enough to host concerts. He had a plan for the beers too. \u201cI\u2019m not interested in brewing hype stuff for beer geeks. I was never a beer geek myself,\u201d Galy says. \u201cI want to brew a beer for the 95% of beer drinkers who just want a Lager or something simple. At a price that\u2019s accessible.\u201d But he wasn\u2019t necessarily thinking Belgian. \u201cI always liked German styles\u2014brewers like Schneider Weisse, Augustiner,\u201d he says. \u201cClean and careful beers, well made and with respect for tradition.\u201d\u00a0<\/p>\n

The brewery\u2019s line-up wouldn\u2019t be exclusively Teutonic\u2014there would also be Saisons, both straight and more esoteric\u2014but it would lean hard into the German tradition: Helles, M\u00e4rzen, K\u00f6lsch, Berliner Weisse, and other German wheat beer styles.\u00a0<\/p>\n

\"Brasserie\"Brasserie<\/a><\/figure>\n

Though it was not a novel idea\u2014Brussels\u2019 interwar industrial breweries were built on the back of Bavarian brewing knowledge and beer styles\u2014some people looked at Galy like he was mad. Others saw a canny business move. \u201cI thought it was very clever actually,\u201d says C\u00e9dric Dautinger, co-founder of the Beer.be<\/em> news website. \u201cIf you look back at the history of beer in Brussels\u2026and [the fact that] Lager and Pils are still the most popular styles in the world.\u201d\u00a0<\/p>\n

Galy\u2019s former boss was cheering him on too. \u201cIt\u2019s a style I really like. I found him to be very courageous because I think that a lot of the Belgian customers don\u2019t understand German beers,\u201d Yvan De Baets says. \u201c[But it] was interesting for the brewing scene also. Because it was not going to be one of those new breweries [just] making stupid IPAs.\u201d<\/p>\n

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\"Brasserie\"Brasserie<\/a><\/figure>\n
\"Brasserie\"Brasserie<\/a><\/figure>\n
\"Brasserie\"Brasserie<\/a><\/figure>\n
\"Brasserie\"Brasserie<\/a><\/figure>\n
\"Brasserie\"Brasserie<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n

Everything\u2014good and bad\u2014Horn had learned at the Gele Poraa<\/em> would be put into practice at La Mule\u2019s bar. \u201cJo\u00ebl told me, \u2018You have to do concerts,\u2019\u201d says Horn, though he didn\u2019t need convincing, \u201cbecause I love music, and I love free-admission music.\u201d Hewing closely to Galy\u2019s \u201cNo Geeks\u201d attitude, the pair wanted the bar to be a community space, as welcoming to locals as it was to those who came for the music or the beer. It would also indulge Horn\u2019s culinary passions, with a kitchen behind the bar serving Belgian brasserie classics.\u00a0<\/p>\n

Galy knew la Mule had to stand out, visually. 2020 was not 2010; in just a decade, the number of Brussels breweries had bloomed from two to almost 20, and this new-wave understood the importance of a strong identity as local competition increased for shelf and tap space. \u201cIt had to be recognisably Mule\u2026 Enough that a customer who sees our brand knows who it is and to trust what\u2019s in the can,\u201d he says. \u201c[Ammo] was the first person I thought of\u201d.\u00a0<\/p>\n

\"Brasserie\"Brasserie<\/a><\/figure>\n

Ammo and Galy met throughout May 2020 for a few Covid-compliant outdoor cans in the park to talk through ideas. Galy would bring along books featuring German and American beer label artwork. \u201cWe found these old Budweiser cans. They were using 12 different fonts on one can\u2026which is crazy,\u201d Ammo says. But not too crazy. \u201cBudweiser became a good point of direction for what everything was going to look like.\u201d<\/p>\n

The pair shared an appreciation for 19th and early 20th century typography-heavy designs, with a sprinkling of American Gold Rush-era iconography. Galy was taking a risk with his attachment to German beers, and encouraged his friend to be bold in his designs\u2014more colour, less detail, cans over bottles. \u201cI don\u2019t have a reputation as a colourful artist. I love grey, sepia,\u201d Ammo says. \u201cJo\u00ebl\u2026 just said, people really have to bleed from their eyes from the colour.\u201d<\/p>\n

By the end of that summer, the brewery was ready\u2014on paper. Schematics for the bar were drawn up. The logo was set. The brewkit ordered. They had somewhere to put it too, a corner of Brussels with a historical but dormant connection to beer. Over half a century since the district\u2019s last one closed its doors, Schaarbeek was getting a new brewery.<\/p>\n

\"Brasserie\"Brasserie<\/a><\/figure>\n

VIII.\u00a0<\/strong><\/h2>\n

City of Donkeys<\/strong><\/h3>\n

S<\/span>pread across Brussels\u2019 eastern flank, Schaarbeek is the second largest and fifth most densely populated of Brussels\u2019 19 municipalities. Its relationship with beer goes back centuries. Orchards of tart, morello-style Schaarbeeksekrieken cherries once grew here and the regular traffic of donkeys bringing the cherry harvest into central Brussels, where brewers would buy them for their cherry Lambics, gave rise to the area\u2019s nickname as the Ezelstad<\/em>\u2014donkey town.\u00a0<\/p>\n

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\"Brasserie\"Brasserie<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

Like much of a Brussels transforming itself amid 19th century industrialisation, the area hosted many breweries, right up until the 1960s, but that history is now largely confined to the private, hobbyist-run Schaarbeek beer museum near the town hall.\u00a0<\/p>\n

Schaarbeek is roughly divided into a more working class area around the Gare du Nord station, and a wealthier cluster up the hill towards the European district. In between is a mixed neighbourhood that has undergone significant gentrification in recent years, leading to socio-cultural tensions. Until relatively recently, however, Schaarbeek\u2019s hospitality sector lagged behind the more rapidly-gentrifying neighbourhoods of St Gilles and Ixelles across town, and it was not always easy to find good beer within its borders. \u201cWe always had the impression that we were kind of left out,\u201d he says. \u201c[Particularly] because it\u2019s one of the biggest communes in the city [and] we used to have such a strong beer history.\u201d\u00a0<\/p>\n

That changed in 2015 with the opening of the Barboteur bottleshop-caf\u00e9 several doors up from the beer museum. \u201cThat was huge news,\u201d C\u00e9dric Dautinger of Beer.be<\/em> says, and it presaged the arrival of other bars with locally-focused, considered beer menus. But no breweries.\u00a0<\/p>\n

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\"Brasserie\"Brasserie<\/a><\/figure>\n
\"Brasserie\"Brasserie<\/a><\/figure>\n
\"Brasserie\"Brasserie<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n

In 2017 Barboteur, the Malt Attacks beer shop, and Dynamo bar in St Gilles organised Schaarbeek\u2019s first modern-day beer festival. SWAFFF\u2014a play on the French word for thirst, soif<\/em>\u2014featured the new generation of Brussels breweries that Horn had been serving at the Gele Poraa<\/em> alongside international invitees from Sweden, the UK, and Norway. This first edition took place in the abandoned former stables of a tram shed\u2014the very same place, almost exactly three years later, Galy and Horn had chosen to be the home of Brasserie de la Mule.\u00a0<\/p>\n

The Ecuries du Tram had everything Galy was looking for\u2014space for a brewhouse, and for expansion if needed; room for stock, space for a stage and a bar, and outside a terrace overgrown with weeds they could transform into an ersatz biergarten<\/em>.\u00a0<\/p>\n

Horn\u2014through his partner\u2014may have found the location, but he wasn\u2019t entirely convinced. Schaarbeek was unknown territory for him and Galy, and the site had already seen off one abortive attempt at installing a brewery. Several years previously, a consortium featuring Cantillon and Moeder Lambic had pitched the municipal council that owned the building on a bakery-brewery project that was ultimately unsuccessful. Moeder Lambic\u2019s Jean Hummler spoke at the time of \u201csurprising\u201d levels of hate directed at the project. \u201cI remember the politicians in the commune<\/em> reacted quite strongly,\u201d Dautinger says. \u201cThey were strongly against the project, because they felt that the people behind it were not from Schaarbeek, and were not genuine.\u201d<\/p>\n

But Galy wouldn\u2019t be dissuaded, pushing Horn to abandon alternative sites in Brussels\u2019 municipalities Jette and Laken. Galy\u2019s stubbornness won out, and Schaarbeek it was. Contracts were prepared, equipment ordered, builders hired, and they were ready to go. Galy had secured \u20ac100,000 from the banks to get started, and his parents had contributed some seed money.\u00a0<\/p>\n

\n
\"Brasserie\"Brasserie<\/a><\/figure>\n
\"Brasserie\"Brasserie<\/a><\/figure>\n
\"Brasserie\"Brasserie<\/a><\/figure>\n
\"Brasserie\"Brasserie<\/a><\/figure>\n
\"Brasserie\"Brasserie<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n

But then, as autumn advanced into winter in 2020, Galy began to get the distinct impression the building\u2019s managers had cold feet about the endeavour. \u201cI think maybe they thought we were these guys who [just] wanted to have fun,\u201d he says. The tram sheds were owned by the local council, with management subcontracted to a third party, and there were regular debates in the nearby town hall about how best to run it\u2014and what tenants to install (alongside the brewery was an organic food market).<\/p>\n

Galy was forced to wade into this bureaucratic minefield in late-2020 to ensure La Mule had a home. \u201cIt was fucking crazy,\u201d says Horn. \u201cWe were due to receive the kegging equipment and brewhouse at the end of January 2021, but\u2026we were [still] not sure about the place.\u201d Cue a period of intense telephone diplomacy between Galy and the town hall, the brewer determined not to have his dream denied him a second time. \u201cMaybe it\u2019s because I\u2019m an Aries,\u201d Galy says of his stubborn streak. The cajoling worked, and in November 2020 they received confirmation to proceed.\u00a0<\/p>\n

New floors arrived in December, and the following month the brewhouse arrived wrapped tightly in cling film and lined up neatly alongside the whitewashed arched roof and bare rebrick walls of its new home. On 21 April 2021, after a month of production finetuning and brewing calibration, the first cans of Brasserie de la Mule\u2019s Hefe Weisse Naturtr\u00fcb\u2014clad in a bright blue, yellow and fuschia Ammo original\u2014were released into the world.\u00a0<\/p>\n

IX.\u00a0<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Ein Prosit, ein Prosit<\/em><\/strong><\/strong><\/h3>\n

O<\/span>n the last Saturday of September every year, thanks to Jo\u00ebl Galy and his mulish colleagues, a small corner of Schaarbeek now transforms itself into a Bavarian beer tent for just one night. The smell of smoked charcuterie cooking over an open grill mixes with the stink of passing traffic, and car horns battle with the parps and bleats of an oompah band. Behind the tram shed\u2019s redbrick walls are reams of blue-and-white bunting, and staff don imitation dirndls to ferry litres of Brasserie de la Mule Lager to thirsty drinkers.<\/p>\n

The tradition began in September 2022, a way to honour the brewery\u2019s German inspiration and mark the bar\u2019s informal first birthday. It was the culmination of Jo\u00ebl Galy\u2019s, Brasserie de la Mule\u2019s, and German Lager\u2019s infiltration of the Brussels beer scene.\u00a0<\/p>\n

\"Brasserie\"Brasserie<\/a><\/figure>\n

Kinski\u2019s manic Fitzcarraldo bungled his dream of an Amazonian opera house. Galy, a more mild-mannered firebrand, was more successful. In the five years since that first April 2021 brew, de la Mule has produced Schwarzbiers, Berliner Weisses, Rauchbiers, Doppelbocks, and even a Folk\u00f6l. He\u2019s brewed with and for Moeder Lambic, Malt Attacks, Dynamo, the Python bar in Schaarbeek, and smuggled de la Mule Lagers onto restaurant drinks menus across the city.\u00a0<\/p>\n

There has even been the odd \u201cstupid IPA\u201d, and not long before that first Oktoberfest, Galy got a call from his old boss Yvan De Baets asking if he might like to take one more tilt at the first ever commercial beer he brewed\u00a0 for Zinnebir\u2019s 20th anniversary\u2014only with a Galy-inspired twist. \u201cWe both came with the exact same idea without talking first to each other,\u201d De Baets says. \u201cI don\u2019t know which of us told the other we should make it a Zinnebir Lager\u2014but immediately the other said, \u2018That was in my head too!\u2019\u201d\u00a0<\/p>\n

Brasserie de la Mule\u2019s brewery in the old tram shed has grown, filling the buildings\u2019 empty spaces and doubling brewing capacity even as Galy and everyone else wrestled with the one-two punch of the pandemic and inflation. Horn\u2019s kitchen never materialised, its intended location making way during a 2024 renovation to accommodate more concert-goers. But the bar has grown to become everything Horn wanted\u2014as welcoming to locals popping in for a post-work beer as for drinkers coming for stand-up gigs and headbangers attending the regular concerts.<\/p>\n

Ammo\u2019s intricate line drawings for de la Mule\u2019s labels are hung on every wall. \u201cIt\u2019s Jo\u00ebl\u2019s brewery<\/em>, definitely,\u201d Ammo concedes, admitting that\u00a0 it wouldn\u2019t exist without Galy\u2019s drive. But Ammo also refers to de la Mule as \u201cmy brewery\u201d and \u201cour project\u201d. \u201cWith De Ranke, or Cantillon, I just draw,\u201d says Ammo. \u201cBut we built [this], and had the idea for it, together.\u201d\u00a0<\/p>\n

\n
\"Brasserie\"Brasserie<\/a><\/figure>\n
\"Brasserie\"Brasserie<\/a><\/figure>\n
\"Brasserie\"Brasserie<\/a><\/figure>\n
\"Brasserie\"Brasserie<\/a><\/figure>\n
\"Brasserie\"Brasserie<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n

With its taproom-neighbourhood bar moonlighting as a concert venue, its anchor in the local community, its idiosyncratic branding, its dogged pursuit of its own niche, and its organic growth, Brasserie de la Mule is archetypal of the Brussels new wave brewing revival. That it remains a family affair was in evidence at that first Oktoberfest. At a small table by the main stage Ammo sat with his family. Not far from him, on the other side of the bar Horn, dressed in porkpie hat and apron made up like an Oktoberfest waitress, bent down to scoop up his red-faced toddler. Beside him was Galy and his partner, with his mother due in for a drink later.\u00a0<\/p>\n

Out in their urban biergarten<\/em>, among the locals, musos, and beer scenesters, C\u00e9dric Dautinger\u2014who\u2019d hosted his wedding reception at the brewery that summer\u2014huddled with his wife around tables heaving with half-empty Ma\u00dfkrugs of beer auburn and straw, hazy and translucent. Beside a decommissioned tram a food station pumped chip fat and curry powder into the night air, and wicker baskets of bretzels were piled next to squat wooden barrels doling out bonafide Bavarian classics from Schlenkerla, Tegernsee, and Rothaus.\u00a0<\/p>\n

\n
\"Brasserie\"Brasserie<\/a><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

Inside, drinkers wolf whistled after the final trumpet toot of a Schlager rendition of \u201cMy Way\u201d before the bandleader of the Belgo-German oompah group\u2014in feathered cap and lederhosen\u2014wound himself up to lead the heaving crowd in another rendition of the Bavarian drinking song Ein Prosit<\/em>, its German lyrics of \u201cone, two, three, drink!\u201d constituting a toast to well-being.\u00a0<\/p>\n

Standing next to tall, thin glasses frothy with amber lager, Galy looked almost like Kinksi at the end of Fitzcarraldo<\/em>, at the moment while he is floating down the Amazon and finally hears a European tenor singing\u2014joyful, surprised, relieved, and satisfied. \u201cI\u2019m so happy. It\u2019s like a dream, my own dream,\u201d said Galy, pausing to look around. \u201cI just make the beers, the people make the rest.\u201d<\/p>\n

With that, Galy and Horn were summoned onstage. Trumpets honked into life for another round of Ein Prosit<\/em>, Horn and Galy screaming the words into the microphone. Hands shot into the sweaty air, Galy bopping along as Horn next to him conducted the crowd in another Belgian-accented chant of \u201cOans, zwoa, drei, Gsuffa<\/em>!\u201d<\/p>\n

*<\/p>\n<\/p><\/div>\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

How stubborn do you have to be to brew German style beers in Belgium\u2014and be successful? To wrestle for years with Brussels bureaucrats? To host heavy metal concerts in an old tram shed? Jo\u00ebl Galy, quietly punkish, Swedish-born and Belgian-raised, should know. The former Brasserie de la Senne brewer is possessed of a t\u00eate de […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":199165,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[137],"tags":[3171,10828,16472,24964,15778,75100,75102,24436,17313,969,418],"dealstore":[],"offerexpiration":[],"class_list":["post-199164","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-beer","tag-beer","tag-belgian","tag-belgian-beer","tag-belgian-smaak","tag-brasserie","tag-brasserie-de-la-mule","tag-de-la-mule","tag-donkey","tag-joel","tag-mule","tag-work"],"yoast_head":"\nDonkey Work \u2014 On Brasserie de la Mule\u00a0 - Som2ny Network<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/fivemor.com\/?p=199164\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Donkey Work \u2014 On Brasserie de la Mule\u00a0 - Som2ny Network\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"How stubborn do you have to be to brew German style beers in Belgium\u2014and be successful? To wrestle for years with Brussels bureaucrats? To host heavy metal concerts in an old tram shed? Jo\u00ebl Galy, quietly punkish, Swedish-born and Belgian-raised, should know. 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