{"id":175380,"date":"2025-04-07T10:48:43","date_gmt":"2025-04-07T10:48:43","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/peraltafinancing.com\/amsterdam\/a-foodies-guide-to-alentejos-capital-city\/"},"modified":"2025-04-07T10:48:43","modified_gmt":"2025-04-07T10:48:43","slug":"a-foodies-guide-to-alentejos-capital-city","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/fivemor.com\/?p=175380","title":{"rendered":"A Foodie\u2019s Guide to Alentejo\u2019s Capital City"},"content":{"rendered":"


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Regular readers will know that I\u2019ve spent a lot of time in Portugal, and that\u2019s probably because I\u2019ve liked almost everywhere I\u2019ve been lucky enough to visit in this country. But still, despite being on familiar terms with the vertiginous terraced vineyards of the Douro Valley<\/a>, the sun-kissed cliffs of the Algarve<\/a> and the Jurassic Park nature of the Azores<\/a>, nothing quite prepared me for how much I was going to fall in love with Alentejo \u2013 and \u00c9vora in particular. The countryside is unassuming \u2013 flatter than many other regions, and fertile with vines and olives \u2013 but it has a humble charm that drew me in. \u00c9vora\u2019s old town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, its ancient walls dating back to Roman and Medieval times, and its uneven cobbles threatening to break your ankle just to make you stay.<\/pullout>\n<\/p>\n

Food in Alentejo<\/strong><\/h2>\n


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More to the point, Alentejan food is simply joyous. The pig is king in much of the region (unless you\u2019re by the coast, of course) and you\u2019ll see porco preto<\/em> (black pork) on every restaurant menu in every different form: hams, sausages, steaks and more. But pescatarians will also enjoy the region\u2019s traditional sopa de ca\u00e7\u00e3o<\/em> (dogfish soup) and its many interpretations of the ubiquitous Portuguese bacalhau<\/em> (salt cod). I can only assume the population of Alentejo ends up with a lot of leftover bread, because bread-based dishes seem to feature heavily: migas<\/em>, a rich, garlicky mush of breadcrumbs fried with pork fat (which tastes more appealing than it sounds!); and a\u00e7orda<\/em>, in which stale bread soaks up a coriander-infused broth, often topped with an egg or fish.<\/p>\n

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Sopa de ca\u00e7\u00e3o (left) and a\u00e7orda (right)<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Transport to, from and around \u00c9vora<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Before you can start eating, you\u2019re going to need to get to \u00c9vora \u2013 and your closest airport is Lisbon\u2019s Humberto Delgado. There are direct flights to Lisbon with Portuguese airline\u00a0TAP Air Portugal<\/a>, Dutch airline\u00a0KLM<\/a>, UK airline\u00a0British Airways<\/a>, Spanish airline\u00a0Iberia<\/a>\u00a0and German airline\u00a0Lufthansa<\/a>, as well as low-cost airlines like\u00a0Vueling<\/a>,\u00a0easyJet<\/a>\u00a0and\u00a0Transavia<\/a>. You can compare times and prices among all airlines on sites like\u00a0Skyscanner<\/a>,\u00a0Expedia<\/a>\u00a0and\u00a0Omio<\/a>.<\/p>\n

From Lisbon airport, you can take the FlixBus<\/a> direct to \u00c9vora, but there aren\u2019t many buses per day. If you\u2019re unlucky on timing, you can hop on the metro to Lisbon Oriente bus terminal and take a Rede Expressos<\/a> bus from there \u2013 both buses take around an hour and a half. Alternatively, it\u2019s an easy drive to \u00c9vora if you\u2019d prefer to rent a car<\/a>\u00a0at Lisbon airport. The centre of \u00c9vora is compact, and parking within the city walls is tricky \u2013 so your best bet is to park outside the walls and walk into the old town on foot.<\/p>\n

10 of the Best Restaurants in \u00c9vora, Portugal<\/strong><\/h2>\n

There are surprisingly large number of restaurants in \u00c9vora, and I was only able to scratch the surface in the three weeks that I spent there. However, if you\u2019re interested in wine as well as food, you can find more information about Alentejo\u2019s wineries, wine bars and shops over on my Substack: The Wine Edit<\/a>!<\/p>\n

TascaTosca & Wine Restaurant<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\n

We found TascaTosca<\/a> on our very first evening in \u00c9vora, while looking for somewhere we could sit outside with our dog (it was 12 degrees and damp, but we couldn\u2019t leave the dog home alone on her first night). Then we saw the magic blue sign, whose words we couldn\u2019t understand but whose symbol we could: dogs allowed! Fortunately, the food and wine were excellent too. We started with some cured pork neck, Alentejan cheese and a berry-laden salad while we settled in with a glass of ros\u00e9. We then moved onto a Petit Verdot from Dona Maria (nearby winery) with our asparagus migas<\/em>. We had arrived.<\/p>\n

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Alentejan pork and cheese at TascaTosca<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Taberna T\u00edpica Quarta-Feira<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\n

Surely the definition of a hidden gem, Taberna T\u00edpica Quarta-Feira<\/a> is tucked down a tiny side street but packed out every night (reservations are essential). There\u2019s no menu \u2013 you\u2019ll simply be presented with a series of dishes by the chef for a fixed price (\u20ac43 per person in March 2025). You\u2019ll also want to arrive very hungry because the dishes just keep coming and coming. We were treated to a sheep\u2019s cheese pie, crispy pork belly with sweet chilli sauce, pork pica-pau<\/em>, beef tongue sandwich, feijoada<\/em> (bean stew with chorizo and octopus), roasted pumpkins, more meltingly tender slow-cooked beef and pork dishes, spinach migas<\/em>\u2026 I\u2019ve definitely missed some of the savoury dishes here, and that\u2019s not even to mention the three desserts!<\/p>\n

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An array of small courses at Taberna T\u00edpica Quarta-Feira<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The food is an Alentejan triumph, and Quarta-Feira truly deserves its place among the very top restaurants in \u00c9vora. Don\u2019t be put off by the number of people speaking English\/ German\/ Italian\/ Dutch\/ etc. around you \u2013 these folk might be tourists but they\u2019re in the know. Finally, be sure to ask the staff for their wine recommendations: all bottles cost the same but there are plenty of different styles to choose from. The Alicante Bouschet-Syrah red blend from Herdade do Sobroso that we drank was the perfect balance of acidity and body for the food.<\/p>\n

Botequim da Mouraria<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\n

Just around the corner from Quarta-Feira, Botequim da Mouraria<\/a> is only open at lunchtimes Monday through Friday, and only seats eight or so people around its bar-come-serving area. Several times when we walked past, there was a sign on the door saying \u201cFULL\u201d. So arrive on time (it usually seems to open at 12:30) or prepare to be disappointed! If you are lucky enough to bag a spot, however, the friendly proprietor will quickly furnish you with a glass of wine and some bread while you decide what to order.<\/p>\n

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The proprietor serving his famous Bacalhau \u00e0 Casa<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

We tried the famous quail\u2019s eggs with cured sausage and the roasted peppers to start, followed by \u201cBacalhau \u00e0 Casa\u201d: Botequim da Mouraria\u2019s own take on salt cod, in this case whipped with eggs into a sort of hearty omelette. We split that, a salad and a slice of sweet pumpkin and almond pie between two of us and were very satisfied. But we saw other local clientele (suited and booted like they were planning to go back to work afterwards!) ordering far more main dishes and entire bottles of wine. Colour me impressed.<\/p>\n

Recanto Restaurante<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\n

I think Recanto restaurant<\/a> is relatively new, which is why I hadn\u2019t read anything about it. Instead, walking past the archways of the old city walls, we spotted the terrace \u2013 which looked ideal for al fresco dining with the dog. We started with a nourishing bowl of caldo verde <\/em>(kale soup, studded with chouri\u00e7o<\/em>) and then moved onto meaty mains of succulent stewed pork cheeks and seared duck breast with crispy layered potatoes.<\/p>\n

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Under the arches at Recanto<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

We\u2019d gone somewhat heavy on the meat because I wanted to order a bottle of the Mainova 2020 single varietal Castel\u00e3o \u2013 which was forest-fruity and earthy. Recanto has two wine lists: a short, curated version and a longer version for wine geeks like me. If you\u2019re lost when it comes to either, fear not \u2013 our server was very helpful in explaining the wines. In fact, the service in general was impeccable; we were even treated to a homemade digestif \u2013 licor de poejo<\/em> \u2013 a fresh, herbal \u201cpennyroyal liqueur\u201d from Alentejo.<\/p>\n

Tua Madre<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\n

Several people had recommended Tua Madre<\/a> to me (and by people, I mean actual acquaintances \u2013 not the internet), despite it being more Italian-influenced than Portuguese. But I can see why: in an unpretentious environment, they\u2019re elevating Portuguese produce (not that I\u2019m saying it needs elevating!) with Italian flavours. Think bruschetta with the finest shavings of \u201cPorco Malhado\u201d ham, or green asparagus with papada<\/em> (lardo di collonata<\/em>).<\/p>\n

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Bruschetta at Tua Madre<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Pasta dishes included a lip-tinglingly spicy spaghetti with \u2018nduja and sea urchin, plus a hearty pappardelle dish with an artichoke and pork sausage sauce that was so meaty it tasted more like stewed beef. The wine list skews heavily local, and I was happy to see several bottles from Cortes de Cima make an appearance. We ordered their 2020 Chamin\u00e9: a blend of Syrah, Touriga Franca, Trincadeira and Alicante Bouschet that was far lighter and fresher than most people expect from the region. A deliciously different dinner \u2013 and bonus points for being dog friendly!<\/p>\n

Vinho e Noz<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\n

Despite its location just outside the city walls, Vinho e Noz felt a bit more touristy than I expected. Its dark brick walls are adorned with various kitschy memorabilia, and there appear to be two sittings: 7 pm for foreigners and 8.30 pm for locals (not literally \u2013 that\u2019s just what it felt like listening to the accents around me). That said, the food was fantastic \u2013 so if you can get past the first impression you\u2019ll be well rewarded.<\/p>\n

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The famous Migas \u00e0 Alentejana at Vinho e Noz<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

There was quite the array of cover dishes on the table when we arrived, of which we kept the olives, bread, roasted peppers and sliced chouri\u00e7o<\/em> \u2013 and sent the rest back. (If you\u2019re not familiar with the Portuguese \u201ccover\u201d system, here\u2019s a quick primer: all the unasked for dishes that appear on your table before the meal will be charged for \u2013 so if you don\u2019t want them, just say so. It\u2019s not rude and everyone does it.) After that, we only had room for two substantial mains, the first of which was \u201cBacalhau \u00e0 Lagareiro\u201d: salt cod braised in olive oil, with new potatoes and caramelised onions. My husband declared it to be the best he\u2019d ever had (and it was, indeed, spectacular). The second was \u201cMigas \u00e0 Alentejana\u201d (that porky bread mush I mentioned at the start) served with chunks of melt-apart pork rib. It was every bit as rich and delicious as it sounds.<\/p>\n

Porta d\u2019Aviz <\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\n

I love a Portuguese snackbar. Often serving so much more than just snacks, they act as a meeting point, a cheap meal, a coffee in the morning or a beer after work. And in \u00c9vora, our closest proper snackbar was next to the city\u2019s northernmost gate. Despite being within the old town walls, Porta d\u2019Aviz<\/a> is away from the tourist centre \u2013 so prices are still affordable for locals and you won\u2019t hear much English being spoken. The menu is short and hearty: feijoada<\/em> (bean and pork stew), ensopado de borrego<\/em> (lamb stew), grilled pork steaks and a couple of fish dishes \u2013 plus the regulation bread and olives. Beer and house wine are cheap, and you can get lunch, dinner or takeaway for less than \u20ac10 per person (at the time of writing). Porta d\u2019Aviz has about eight tables inside, but there\u2019s a decent-sized terrace if the weather is good. This is not fine dining \u2013 but it\u2019s absolutely what life in Portugal is all about.<\/p>\n

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Feijoada at Porta d\u2019Aviz snackbar<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Tr\u00eas Marmelos<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\n

Translating literally as \u201cThree Quinces\u201d (and less literally as \u201cThree Idiots\u201d), Tr\u00eas Marmelos<\/a> is run by three friends who have breathed innovative energy into Portuguese produce. We especially enjoyed the big flavours of the tuna belly, served with spicy jalapeno-infused sweet potato pur\u00e9e, pickled fennel and beetroot crisps. And the sous-vide duck with butternut squash, tender-stem broccoli, pickled cauliflower and parsley was both greenly fresh and meltingly tender. But even the charcuterie and bread were excellent quality. We ate at Tr\u00eas Marmelos on our last night in \u00c9vora, and it was a fantastic end to a fantastic trip.<\/p>\n

Portuguese baked goods and sweet treats<\/strong><\/h2>\n

I don\u2019t have a sweet tooth but I cannot resist past\u00e9is de nata<\/em> when in Lisbon, ouri\u00e7os<\/em> when in Ericeira, the list of Portuguese sweet treats goes on\u2026 And in \u00c9vora, while plenty of places serve past\u00e9is de nata<\/em>, you\u2019re really here for the queijadas<\/em>. There seem to be a few different types of these tasty little tarts: made with egg yolk, almond or ricotta fillings. And in my experience, the fresher (i.e. the more recently baked) the better.<\/p>\n

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Queijadas at Pastelaria Conventual P\u00e3o de Rala<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

On the main square, Caf\u00e9 Arcada<\/strong><\/a> always has a queue of people, so you can be pretty sure their pastry turnover is high. Or wander a little off the beaten path to Pastelaria Conventual P\u00e3o de Rala<\/strong><\/a> \u2013 a beautiful, blue-tiled caf\u00e9 whose traditional convent-inspired treats were superior to every other I tried.<\/p>\n

Planning a trip to Portugal? Check out my foodie guides to <\/em>the Algarve<\/em><\/a> and <\/em>Ericeira<\/em><\/a>! And if you love wine too, head over to <\/em>The Wine Edit on Substack<\/em><\/a> for more about Alentejo\u2019s wines!<\/em><\/h3>\n<\/p><\/div>\n