{"id":132718,"date":"2025-03-14T10:33:25","date_gmt":"2025-03-14T10:33:25","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/peraltafinancing.com\/amsterdam\/a-foodies-guide-to-the-azores-capital\/"},"modified":"2025-03-14T10:33:25","modified_gmt":"2025-03-14T10:33:25","slug":"a-foodies-guide-to-the-azores-capital","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/fivemor.com\/?p=132718","title":{"rendered":"a foodie\u2019s guide to the Azores\u2019 capital"},"content":{"rendered":"


\n<\/p>\n

\n
\n

\n

\n

The Azores is made up of nine islands, of which S\u00e3o Miguel is the largest \u2013 and its biggest city is Ponta Delgada. As digital nomads, it was where we decided to base ourselves for the six weeks we spent in the Azores, and of course we ate in plenty of Ponta Delgada\u2019s restaurants while we were here. From seafood to steak, and from brunch to fine dining, Ponta Delgada has plenty of restaurant options to suit every palate and budget. That said, S\u00e3o Miguel is still small \u2013 it\u2019s easy to get to most places on the island within an hour by car \u2013 so I\u2019ve compiled a separate article about restaurants on the rest of S\u00e3o Miguel island, which comes out next week.<\/p>\n\n

Travel to and around the Azores<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Even if you plan to travel further off the beaten path and head to one of the smaller islands, the chances are you\u2019ll need to fly in via Ponta Delgada as the main airport hub \u2013 with direct flights via United<\/a>, British Airways<\/a>, Ryanair<\/a>, Lufthansa<\/a> and TAP Air Portugal<\/a>. After spending a few days on S\u00e3o Miguel, you can take Azores Airlines<\/a> to one of the smaller islands. I must admit, we did not even attempt to take public transport around S\u00e3o Miguel (although there are buses). We rented a car<\/a> for the entire period, which helped immensely with getting out of the city and into nature (which is probably why you\u2019re here).<\/p>\n

Food in S\u00e3o<\/strong> Miguel, Azores<\/strong><\/h2>\n


\n<\/center><\/div>\n


\n <\/p>\n

Although the Azores are officially part of Portugal, food in S\u00e3o Miguel differs hugely from that on the mainland. As you might expect from an archipelago, fish and seafood feature heavily \u2013 look out for the bright orange c\u00e2ntaro<\/em> (offshore rockfish), which is delicious grilled, and the platters of garlicky limpets. Many restaurants also offer wonderfully warming bowls of caldeirada de peixe<\/em> (fish stew) with potatoes, peppers, tomatoes and herbs.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Caldeirada de peixe<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Meanwhile, carnivores will be pleased by the major focus on steak (you\u2019ll see cows grazing all over the island), which is cooked in a very specifically Azorean way \u2013 see restaurant Alcides below. Cozido<\/em> (a hearty meat-and-veg stew) is also a must-try when in Furnas.<\/p>\nBeyond meat and fish, the local cheeses are delicious: our favourites were the tangy, matured cheese from S\u00e3o Jorge island and the mild, fresh cheese from S\u00e3o Miguel served with a salty, spicy pepper sauce.<\/pullout> The island also grows masses of sour-sweet pineapples, while baked sweet treats include the famous queijadas da vila<\/em> \u2013 densely rich, sweet tarts \u2013 from Vila Franca do Campo (although caf\u00e9s and bakeries all over the island sell them, too).<\/p>\n

\n

Interested in Azorean wine? Head over to my Substack: The Wine Edit<\/a> for articles about wine in general and the Azores<\/a> specifically!<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n

Traditional Azorean restaurants in Ponta Delgada<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Alcides restaurant<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\n

Steak in the Azores generally seems to be served in a particular way: alongside pimenta salgada<\/em> (salty red pepper), lots of garlic and a white wine jus. In Ponta Delgada, the place to try it is purported to be Alcides<\/a> \u2013 a traditional restaurant that\u2019s part of a hotel next door. We enjoyed the steak itself (although it came very rare, despite asking for it medium-rare) but the salty peppers are an acquired taste. I\u2019d recommend shaving off slivers to eat with a steak (almost as a seasoning) rather than making the mistake of taking a large bite of the salty pepper by itself! The other classic S\u00e3o Miguel dish that we tried \u2013 morcela<\/em> (blood sausage) with fresh pineapple \u2013 was simple but offered a good contrast of flavours. We paired it with a red wine from Pico island that was as light and sour-fresh as the pineapple.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Azorean-style steak at Alcides<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Restaurante Mariserra<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\n

East of Ponta Delgada\u2019s old town, if you walk along the coast for about two kilometres you\u2019ll come to S\u00e3o Roque \u2013 a coastal neighbourhood that\u2019s home to an equally coastal restaurant: Mariserra<\/a>. Specialising (unsurprisingly) in seafood, Mariserra is the place to go for local grilled fish, seafood rice, bacalhau<\/em> and more. Everything we ate was fresh and delicious, especially paired with a view over the Atlantic and a bottle of excellent Arinto dos A\u00e7ores (an indigenous white grape) from Pico island.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Seafood rice at Mariserra<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Xurrex <\/strong><\/h3>\n

North of the Old Town, we only stumbled across Xurrex<\/a> because it was a hundred metres or so from our apartment. It\u2019s a takeaway grelhado<\/em> (open-fire grill) place, so not a restaurant at which to linger, but I\u2019d recommend stopping by to pick up a meaty lunch or dinner: succulent chunks of pork leg and\/or half a piri-piri chicken \u2013 both grilled to smoky, moist perfection. Try also the saucy black beans and the recheio<\/em> \u2013 a sort of savoury bread pudding. Xurrex isn\u2019t one for the vegetarians, but if you eat meat you won\u2019t be disappointed!<\/p>\n

Modern Azorean restaurants in Ponta Delgada<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Petiscaria \u201cO Calheta\u201d<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\n

Many of the restaurants we came across on S\u00e3o Miguel felt quite traditional \u2013 and there\u2019s nothing wrong with that (especially at the start of your trip). But by week 3, we were excited to discover Petiscaria O Calheta<\/a>: a brand new restaurant (it had only been open a month) making modern, creative dishes that still felt resolutely Azorean, but with innovative influences from elsewhere in Europe. There\u2019s a regular menu and a specials board, so we tried a couple of dishes from each, plus a \u201cpunch\u201d cocktail made with aguardente<\/em> and the local citrus fruit, and a bottle of white wine produced on the island of S\u00e3o Miguel itself.<\/p>\n

\"\"
The specials board at O Calheta<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

The fact that the chef is a fan of smoking (by which I mean food, not cigarettes) was evident throughout. Smoked fish croquettes were elevated with fermented pickled carrots and a creamy aioli, while excellent sourdough bread came with smoked, whipped butter. Next, moray eel was also smoked and served with charred green beans, shavings of a local radish (I think?) and a garlicky, bready sauce that begged to be mopped up with more of the sourdough. The octopus with crispy squares of polenta and semi-dried tomatoes also went excellently with the Fern\u00e3o Pires and Verdelho white blend. We enjoyed our dinner so much, we planned to go back to O Calheta for our last night on the island (in the event, it was closed for team training!).<\/p>\n

Tasquinha Vieira<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\n

Also flying the flag for a more modern style of Azorean cooking is Tasquinha Vieira<\/a>, in a tight space in Ponta Delgada\u2019s old town (with an interesting wine list to boot). We started with their a\u00e7orda<\/em>: a sort of bread soup with plenty of garlic and coriander that\u2019s popular not only in the Azores but also on the mainland. I believe it originated in Alentejo and usually involves a poached egg on top, but in this case it came with an egg yolk that we mixed through the soup, plus pieces of swordfish. Pure carby comfort food.<\/p>\n

\"\"
A\u00e7orda <\/em>at Tasquinha Vieira<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Next, we ate mussels in a coconut curry sauce that was delicious mopped up with the excellent sourdough, followed by a small brick of pulled pork swimming in a puree of inhames<\/em> (yams) with a millefeuille of cabbage. Both good dishes, but they could\u2019ve used a touch of acidity: some fresh lime juice on the mussels, or light pickling of the cabbage. We drank a bottle of strawberry-fresh Clarete from Insula (a winery on Pico island) and topped off a lovely dinner with a rich chocolate mousse with pistachio nuts.<\/p>\n

International restaurants in Ponta Delgada<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Rotas da Ilha Verde<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\n

It can be quite hard to find vegetarian food in Portugal, so it was refreshing to come across Rotas da Ilha Verde<\/a> in the centre of Ponta Delgada (even if, like me, you\u2019re an omnivore). It\u2019s a cosy space, with lovely service and good wine, that feels both rustic and homely. We particularly enjoyed the zucchini cannelloni stuffed with soy mince and topped with cheese, which was full of flavour and in no way missing meat. The spiced apple crumble dessert with vegan ricotta and lime zest was also an indulgent treat. The lunch deal looks like a bargain, too!<\/p>\n

Suplexi\u00f3<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\n

Meanwhile, meat lovers will be pleased to know that Suplexi\u00f3<\/a> does a good line in gourmet burgers \u2013 just down the road from Rotas above. There are various beef versions (of which I ordered \u201cEl Chapo\u201d with cheese, jalapenos, fried onions and BBQ sauce) but also chicken and veggie if you prefer. The patties are soft and generous, the buns do a good job of not falling apart, and the toppings are flavourful. My only complaint would be that the fries were rather limp.<\/p>\n

\"\"
El Chapo burger at Suplexi\u00f3<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Jardim Natural Food & Coffee<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\n

In the Ant\u00f3nio Borges botanical gardens, you\u2019ll find an indoor-outdoor brunch caf\u00e9 that would be at home in Amsterdam or any other recognisably hipster city. Jardim<\/a> specialises in giant, pillowy pancakes (that taste more like cake) and fancy coffees. We tried one of the sweet pancake options \u2013 topped with bananas, chocolate and peanut butter \u2013 as well as the \u201csalty cakes\u201d with bacon, egg and avocado (although the lashings of maple syrup made this also taste pretty sweet). Both were delicious and huge \u2013 we didn\u2019t manage to finish our second cake \u2013 and warranted a brisk stroll around the botanical gardens afterwards. Specialty coffees include Chemex and V60 (essentially versions of a pour-over) plus Aeropress and Cafetiere, and you get to pick your own beans. We\u2019d go back for the Costa Rican Chemex, but note that you\u2019ll be paying northern European prices!<\/p>\n

\"\"
Piled-high pancakes and coffee at Jardim<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Wine bars in Ponta Delgada<\/strong><\/h2>\n

Azorean wine is unique \u2013 not least because of the islands\u2019 crazy climate. You can read all about Azorean terroir and why it makes such fascinating wine over on my Substack<\/a>, but in the meantime here\u2019s a roundup of the wine bars in Ponta Delgada. To taste Azorean wines specifically, your best bet by far is the first bar on my list!<\/p>\n

Wine & Art by 1001 Garrafas<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\n

An elegant wine bar that\u2019s only been open for a couple of years (at the time of writing), Wine & Art<\/a> is a top spot to try Azorean (and other Portuguese) wines by the glass. They offer six Azorean whites (mostly from Pico island), a ros\u00e9 and a handful of reds (including a couple from S\u00e3o Miguel island itself), which is certainly one of the larger selections of local wines I came across without visiting the wineries themselves. You\u2019ll need to be prepared to pay more than you would for wines from mainland Portugal, but the quality is worth it. We worked our way through most of the Azorean wines on the list during our stay (we went back several times): from the white Arinto dos A\u00e7ores that\u2019s tangy with sour oranges and saline with ocean spray, to the Syrah-Merlot red blend that\u2019s full of earthy volcanic soil and black pepper. There\u2019s lots to discover!<\/p>\n

\"\"
Local Azorean wines outside Wine & Art by 1001 Garrafas<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Ta Gente<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\n

Just around the corner from Wine & Art, Ta Gente<\/a> is a good spot to duck into if you want to create your own wine and petiscos<\/em> (tapas) tour of Ponta Delgada. The wine list isn\u2019t as interesting as Wine & Art, and you\u2019re mainly limited to bottles rather than glasses, but they have a big selection of gin & tonics instead, and the food menu offers interesting takes on Portuguese dishes. We tried the \u201cbroken eggs\u201d with cured ham, sweet potatoes and asparagus, which were delicious and which you \u201cbreak\u201d yourself at the table. The alheira<\/em> (a sort of rillettes-textured sausage) with local cheese, honey and flaked pollen was also tasty (and different from the usual preparation of alheira<\/em>). While the batata brava<\/em> just resembled good old English chips, it came with a spicy aioli that meant we wolfed down the lot in no time. Ta Gente has a gin cave atmosphere, with lots of velvety seating and quirky lamps \u2013 it would make a good date spot.<\/p>\n

\"\"
\u201cBroken eggs\u201d and Portuguese wine at Ta Gente<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Reserva<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\n

Hidden away in a romantic space full of intriguing bottles and wooden crates, wine bar Reserva<\/a> is an indulgent spot to gorge yourself on Portuguese cheeses, charcuterie and various sausages while splitting a bottle with your significant other. Owner Bruno does have a few Azorean wines, but they are very high-end, off-menu bottles (over \u20ac100 a pop) so we stuck to mainland Portugal on this occasion \u2013 opting for an elegant, nine-year-old, red blend from Alentejo.<\/p>\n

\"\"
Platter of meats and cheeses at wine bar Reserva<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

R\u00e9sv\u00e9s Street Bar<\/em><\/strong><\/h3>\n

Ok, this last one is for cocktails, not wine! R\u00e9sv\u00e9s calls itself a \u201cstreet bar\u201d<\/a> but it feels like anything but: the cave-like bar at the back of the room gives speakeasy vibes, and the mixologists clearly know their stuff. Although they\u2019ll shake you up a classic cocktail of your choosing, R\u00e9sv\u00e9s\u2019 signature drinks are what you\u2019re here for. The evening we visited, there were five exotic concoctions inspired by colours: the Viridis was a sophisticated mixture of pear, lemon, kaffir lime and matcha, with booze in the form of vodka and Lillet Blanc. While the Fulgeo combined gin, St Germain, lemongrass cordial and olive lemonade \u2013 a grown-up, spring-inspired drink. Prices are steep by Portuguese standards (\u20ac9-12 per cocktail) but R\u00e9sv\u00e9s is a special way to start or end a night out.<\/p>\n

\"\"
R\u00e9sv\u00e9s street bar<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Planning a trip to the Azores? Read my articles about <\/em>Azorean wine<\/em><\/a> over on <\/em>Substack: The Wine Edit<\/em><\/a>. And don\u2019t forget to check out my <\/em>foodie\u2019s guide to the rest of S\u00e3o Miguel island<\/em>, coming soon!<\/em><\/h3>\n<\/p><\/div>\n