{"id":129576,"date":"2025-03-13T00:50:14","date_gmt":"2025-03-13T00:50:14","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/peraltafinancing.com\/recipes\/category-a-b\/bread\/brot-bread-modernist-bread\/"},"modified":"2025-03-13T00:50:14","modified_gmt":"2025-03-13T00:50:14","slug":"brot-bread-modernist-bread","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/fivemor.com\/?p=129576","title":{"rendered":"Brot & Bread: MODERNIST BREAD"},"content":{"rendered":"


\n<\/p>\n

\n
\n<\/a><\/div>\n

When I first learned of genius entrepreneur Nathan Myhrvold’s
\nendeavor to create THE Ultimate Work on Bread Baking, pouring thousands
\nof dollars in his state-of-the-art scientific laboratory plus baking
\nstation, I was rather skeptical. After Modernist Cuisine now molecular
\nbaking?<\/p>\n

But a presentation last summer at the Kneading Conference
\nin Skowhegan\/ME, with stunning photos of the process, was so convincing
\nthat I overcame my doubts (and qualms about spending so much money), and
\n ordered my copy at Amazon.<\/p>\n

The massive metal box set (History and
\n Fundamentals, Ingredients, Techniques and Equipment, Recipes I and II,
\nand a spiral bound kitchen manual with formulas) arrived in November,
\ntoo heavy for one person to carry. Totally awed by those gorgeous,
\natlas-sized tomes, I asked myself the obvious question:<\/p>\n

“Am I good enough for this Rolls Royce of baking books<\/em><\/strong>?”<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n
<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
“Am I good enough for this?”<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

Being the anal Virgo, instead of undisciplined rushing at the
\nrecipes, I started reading the first volume, History and Fundamentals.
\nThough I’m generally not a great fan of non-fiction, remembering with a
\nshudder the all-night-cramming before my final medical exams, I found
\nthe book a very pleasant read, interesting, full of fascinating facts,
\nand beautifully illustrated.<\/p>\n

My husband, a Vietnam veteran,
\ntravels to Asia every year, Singapore, Cambodia, and, always, Vietnam.
\nWhether in Saigon or Danang, his favorite food are Banh Mi sandwiches,
\nand he misses them here in Maine.<\/p>\n

The toppings, meat, pickles,
\ncucumbers, chili and cilantro, are not hard to come by, but the Banh Mi
\nbreads are a totally different matter. Though French baguettes are their
\n ancestors, Banh Mi rolls are different, with a thinner crust and
\nsofter, fluffier crumb.<\/p>\n

With Richard just back from Saigon, I decided on Banh Mi rolls, my first loaves to bake from Modernist Bread.<\/p>\n

I
\n had tried to make them before, using the only recipe (from Andrea
\nNguyen) that appears to be circulating in the internet. It wasn’t bad,
\nbut, according to my husband (and my own memory from my trip to Vietnam
\nyears ago), it wasn’t right, either, no crackly crust, and too chewy.<\/p>\n

For
\n many of Myhrvold’s breads you can choose between two or (even three)
\ndifferent formulas, a classic version, a “best” version, and a
\n“modernist” approach (with unusual enhancements, like gelatin).<\/p>\n

But for Banh Mi, there is only one recipe.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n
<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Banh Mi recipe page<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

\nThough I often tweak formulas according to my own preferences, this
\ntime I didn’t not stray from the Modernist’s path, awed by the expertise
\n of the authors. I wondered a bit about the shortening (or lard) in the
\nbread – no fat in French baguettes, and why would bakers in a poor Asian
\n country add a costly enrichment to their dough?<\/p>\n

Instead repeating
\n the mixing procedures and different steps for shaping, and proofing in
\nevery formula, Modernist Bread refers to detailed instructions in volume
\n 3 (Techniques and Equipment). Fine.<\/p>\n

But would it have killed them (or taken up too much space) to put oven temperatures<\/strong> and baking times<\/strong>
\n into the recipes? You had to look under “filone entry in French Lean
\nBread Baking Times and Temperatures”, several pages back, to find them –
\n or not<\/strong>, since there was no filone<\/strong> in the list!<\/p>\n

And why is cold bulk fermentation<\/strong> only very briefly and cursorily mentioned as an option? Instead, the Techniques section offered retardation<\/strong> of the shaped breads,<\/strong> along with fermentation at different room temperatures. Great, if you bake only one loaf – or have a walk-in refrigerator!<\/p>\n

I
\n started my mixing process, following the Modernist Bread’s instructions
\n – and was confronted with my first question: “add salt and mix on
\nmedium-low speed to low gluten development; add melted shortening or
\nlard, and mix on medium speed to full gluten development.”<\/p>\n

How do I
\n gauge low gluten development? I added the shortening after I mixed in
\nthe salt, drizzling it slowly into the mixer bowl. But, alas, my gluten
\ndevelopment was faster, my dough did not welcome the greasy addition,
\nresisting its incorporation, and, instead, swishing the liquid fat all
\naround in the bowl.<\/p>\n

It took a long time of mixing, until the dough looked somewhat homogeneous – but it was still coated in grease!<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n
<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
The dough resisted the incorporation of fat<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

No help for that, I had to trust in the mitigating effect of long
\nfermentation (I did the cold bulk), especially since my 7-qt Kitchen
\nAid, deciding, “enough is enough”, switched itself off to avoid
\noverheating.<\/p>\n

Everything else, shaping and proofing, went according to plan, until it was time to bake.<\/p>\n

Modernist Bread pooh-poohs every steaming measure<\/strong>
\n we poor hobby bakers are able to employ, except for using a Dutch oven
\nor a covered baker. Tough luck for home-based micro-bakeries like mine
\nthat need to process more than one loaf at a time!<\/p>\n

I guess I have to live with my guilt of using my modest, pebble filled steam pan.<\/p>\n

In the “French Lean Bread Baking Temperatures and Times” table I found only temperature for baking (470\u00baF\/245\u00baC), not for<\/strong> preheating<\/strong> the oven. I remembered having come across it somewhere in the Technique volume, but couldn’t find that paragraph again.<\/p>\n

Assuming
\n 500\u00baF would be okay, I preheated my oven (which keeps the correct
\ntemperature), with baking stone and steaming device in place. According
\nto the time table, the small baguettes should be baked for 15 minutes
\nwith steam, and 10 minutes without, at 470\u00baF.<\/p>\n

But when I checked
\nafter 15 minutes, to remove the steam pan, they were already fully
\nbaked, with an interior temperature of 211\u00baF.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n
<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Not a Banh Mi at all! <\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

\nThe baguettes looked okay from the outside, though the crust was not
\ncrackly. But when we cut the baguettes in halves to make sandwiches, we
\nwere in for a big disappointment. Instead of airy and fluffy, the crumb
\nwas dense and chewy<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

And worse – they didn’t taste like Banh Mi<\/strong>
\n at all, more like brioche (made with shortening instead of butter).<\/p>\n

We
\nate our sandwiches, grumbling, and I was sorely tempted to throw the
\nremaining two loaves in the trash – something I hardly ever do with my
\nbread, even if it’s burnt, or otherwise malfatti.<\/p>\n

In the end the
\nfrugal housewife prevailed – I cut off the bread crusts and ground them
\ninto crumbs. And worked the loaves into a really nice bread pudding!<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n
<\/a><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n
Successfully recycled – Leek Bread Pudding, made of Banh Mi rolls<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n

\n<\/div>\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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